ToughButterCup

Could I just ask: how do you know that I ask because ( and I had forgotten ) @PeterW's point How do you know for sure that your house is in the wrong position; and on what (or with what) authority was that statement made to you? In other words, what's the evidence base for the claim that your house is in the wrong place?

Don't know much about humidity, but I did bump into this article which might be helpful. Its from Passive Hous + magazine, so it's likely to be worth reading. https://passivehouseplus.ie/blogs/the-condensation-myth?highlight=WyJodW1pZGl0eSIsImh1bWlkIiwiaHVtaWRpdGllcyJd Ian

Blame is for later. Diplomacy and gentle talking is whats needed now.

Sounds to me like an honest mistake. Sort out the issue at an informal level first. At issue is 4 meters. The house exists - nobody is going to be able to argue that you should pick it up and move it. But this issue is akin to the ransom strip stories we hear fairly regularly. Bottom line: you may not be able to sell because someone in the discussion group wants to stand on principle. Which is why diplomacy and calm negociation will be key Do those 4 meters matter? If so how? Can four other meters be 'given back' in some way?

Oooooof. Get the whole story from the solicitor. Ask why? And then come and tell us what the reason is. Instinct tells me, gently gently diplomatically .....

https://advances.sciencemag.org/content/7/5/eabd7342 downlaoaded 20/02/2021 Please may I cast the first stone? PS roughly a mm thick. I doubt it would stand today's storm - but would be pleased to be proved wrong.

Very interesting post @Timedout . Now if a proper brick layer would come along and add to this thread, that would be great. @Brickie ? Over to you?

Yes: frankly it wont be anything else. Look at other houses that have the same orientation and same roof type. Has the same happened? My instinct is not to worry, but to keep a close eye on it - and other local roofs if you can. A quick look in the roof space is also worth it.

My boy, when yer as old as I am you will........

Yes, @FM2015, woodcrete ( the generic name for Durisol I take it?) is leaky and does allow water into it, unless covered up properly In terms of water tightness, Durisol - on its own - is a bit like a Land Rover 90 : water leaks out of it as fast as it leaked in in the first place. If you don't control ingress - water is on its way in. I have a small Piggery (now used as a wash-house and store) which has no cladding or water ingress control at all. It shows some evidence of damp having been there, but for a utility room its fine. Cover it with Cloeber Permo Forte Quattro and some nice open cladding and the problem will disappear. Well, it has in the main house. In terms of air tightness, I think I have slipped up: better said, not had the bandwidth to focus on that issue as closely as I would have liked. Time will tell. My office (where I am now) is in part of the house where there is no outside or inside parging or plastering. I can actually feel the draft when the wind is in the right direction. No water ever gets to the office wall because it's under a large canopy (5m by 3m) . But the wind does whistle in. Leave the room, shut the door, and the rest of the house (fully parged and plastered) is stiller, warmer, quieter. Sucking my teeth about the air test......?

Did that too: on the beach at Roa Island by Barrow in Furness . Could not believe how many bread wrappers we picked up - from a Bakery in Newfoundland

Why oh why oh why is the industry handing us a health hazard? Disgusted of Lancaster

Could you put a bit more detail on that for me, please? Full disclosure; I built in Durisol.

By definition, self building is one-off ( the two notable exceptions on BH tend to support that rule) In terms of wheel re-invention, thats exactly why I post about my ICF build : it might just lighten a self-builder's load.

Nonsense I say. Here's why. Checking carefully for cross threading, I screw a new tin of foam gun cleaner on a new gun. Close the valve tight. And put the assembly in the metal box. It has a tight-fitting lid. Two days later I open the lid. Had I been smoking I would have self-immolated on the spot. Almost all of the content had leeched out. An hour later, my clothes still reek of the volatile gas. I'm slightly cross. And grateful to have learned the lesson. No matter how much care is taken the union between gun and canister is not gas tight.

Hammer. Nails.

Why the unaccustomed modesty? You'd be brilliant at it. I decided early on that I would have to build in some storage, so I did a little bit of research. YouTube: Peter Millard

No, it's the D4 I had left over from gluing the floor boards to the joists ...

My favourite glue dispenser : I store it in my container, and this year for some reason the contents have gone hard - not all of it, just the bit in the pouring spout. I've tried leaving it on the heated flooring for a day to warm up, and putting it in very hot water, hoping it would melt ... but. Any way of dissolving the glue that's in there, or do I just have to replace it?

Know what folks, this thread really does repay close examination. There are all sorts of jewels of information here: I'm thinking I ought to provide a thread summary. Maybe I could draft it in sections. Maybe I should do it over Lent, as penance.

than .... ? '... as cheap as it gets ... ' is £800 per square meter if you are @nod, £1200 to £1400 if you work at it, and stupid prices if you are on Grand Designs (with recent notable exceptions)

That French door looks more like a suicide door. Step out of that door and you land on the car roof. Maybe its the angle at which the image was taken?

Oh that word '... always...' Makes a first and only time self-builder jealous. Just think Gary, you'll have forgotten more than I'll ever know about parging.

I got a PM from a member who is about to parge his Durisol build. On my build, as usual, I had never done this before. So this is a brief review of what, how, when .... and mostly it demonstrates yet another steep learning curve. Here's what I wrote about it at the time And this is the result ; each photo has a brief annotation to help explain. This photo shows two levels of parging - the RHS parging is thicker, much thicker than the LHS. You can hardly see the blocks I've chosen this photo (of the damaged corner) because it shows clearly the difference in thickness in coating: LHS much thicker Here's the spiel about rendering and airtightness : thing is from experience, I don't think you can get airtightness out of the parge coat alone : well, I can't anyway. Much more airtightness might well be provided by the following covering ( in our case ) Clober Permoforte Quattro. And, at that price, it should provide that. It's excellent by the way. Put an good plaster coat inside and you're well on the way to a decent breathable, airtight wall. Thing is - what happens in way of (behind) the wall plates. I think I've missed a trick there. Here's the point: I should have made the coating thicker.

Here you are: it's a doctoral thesis I bumped into at work........ here's the abstract Here's the whole study from sciencedirect.com https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1876610215023413