Dan F

FYI they moved out of U.K. after Brexit, so need to refer to EU site for current models i was told: https://www.dimplex-fires.eu/

Which ones are you using in new build? We've used a "cassette 500 projects" ("projects" is plumbed-in version). This one had no heating element at all. I want to see if i can turn it on/off with a relay so it becomes part of the lighting scenes, not tried yet though.

We've just fitted one, not used it yet though as not quite moved in yet. I actually recommend these further up in this thread, but it's good to hear from someone thats used one for a while.

Gong to go with bioethanol, water vapour, lcd, or just skip the fire completely?

I'm just sorting out connectors for tv/satellite so this is interesting. What is best choice for in-wall connectors: - co-ax female or f-type male? - isolated or non-isolated?

The derating assumes cables are bunched and touching along their length. It is also based on are all cables carrying rated current. So unless you are putting 10 x 1mm2 cables together, all running 8.5A, i don't think you need to derate quite as much.

https://www.doncastercables.com/product-documents/TRI-RATED.pdf (TLC quote same figures in product description)

Tri-rated cable has much higher current ratings. I'm using 1mm2 for everything 230v in the panel, apart from a couple of things such as the common live/nuetral for 4 x bathroom UFH mats (total of 15A between them) where I'll use 1.5mm just to be on the save side.

You need to do some spoofing! Does this not help? https://pimylifeup.com/raspberry-pi-mac-address-spoofing/

Wago 2003-7646 would be the equivilant of the ones I'm using. I've stuck to the the Weidmuller PDL 4 S/N/L/PE blocks for most things. But am about to order the new version of these for terminating DALI runs, as they need to allow 4 bridged cross-connectors in order to support this interesting setup. (DALI has L, N, E, DA+, DA-) Great!

Have a look at these. They are available as a cassete version, which can be built into your own furntirue or fire-place. We've even plumbed one in, so it'll never need topping up. Some of them have a heat element in them, but ours doesn't. https://www.dimplex.co.uk/optimyst In my opinion, while it's not fire, they look more realistic than bio-ethanol if you're after a log-fire effect and also don't emit any smells at all.

I like this idea, and it would save on cost of some of those 8-level blocks, I'm just keen to do as much as possible in the cabinet itself given I need the space above for lighting PSU's and drivers. Aside from your CAT6's floating loose, have you run into any other issues with terminating into the signal marshelling blocks on the top rail? As far as shielding goes, I only plan to connect the the 1-wire sheilding to DC GND, but other than this was not planning to connect any of the CAT7 shielding to anything, I don't think it's really necesary is it? I've done this, thanks in part to reading @joth's posts. I have a total of around 15-18 coming into the cabinet I think and was planning to use the 8-level blocks here, one per incoming CAT7. Rather than use seperate blocks for distributing 24V/GND/TREE+/TREE- etc. but current plan is to try to get hold of these (see below) to bridge the blocks. Should help me to keep the termination slightly tidier and give me a bit more flexibility when it comes to switching around which CAT7 runs are connected to which tree extension (I think i need 2).

Most terminal blocks (apart from the 8-level ones) are just over 5mm wide each. Wago also do the T&E terminal blocks with the earth "foot" which would address your previous question to. What I did before I built anything, and before buying most terminal blocks, was to: - Choose a terminal block manufacturer. - Study the product range (sticking to 2.5mm push-in reducing reading time) so you understand what's available including multi-tier blocks, and those with earth incorporated. - Design the layout using the manufacturers design-tool to make sure everything fits and then export a shopping list from the tool. Assumung you can get all terinal blocks on the top row, how many Loxone extensions do you have? Will these all fit on the two middle rails, leaving the bottom rails for PSU's and RCBO's?

I'm not using any fuses anywhere, I don't have any 24v lighting in the cabinet either though, it's all external with seperate supplies and drivers.

I lied, it's a LNX4 I have, not LXN5 (the LXN5 is still in the box). But looking online it seems they are putting the extras in the deep version only. I avoided the deep version as I thought it wasnt really necessary, but I see the rails have 60/40 split which would have been jolly useful for the terminal blocks I'm trying to put on the bottom rail!

Don't need to run it anywhere as the cabinet including rails are all earthed, as long as earth on incoming supply is clamped to the busbar at the bottom of the cabinet, which it will be. Top 3 extensions are relays. The lower three extensions are dimmers. The terminals are the top (from left to right are) - Termination for DALI lighting (here I'll use 2 terminal blocks per feed, one for LNE and one for DA+/DA- and then cut the cross-connectors so that they bridge terminal blocks, hit & miss. - 5A lighting circuits - 2+E for UFH/towel rails - 3+E for Blinds/Curtains Yes, this still need to tidy this up and I might need to modify things so they fit further back, but yes.. these will be common live blocks. One for each RCBO i.e. UFH, lighting, blinds. In hinsight it may have been simpler to daisy chain the live, but this was me trying to do things probably!

We haven't applied any of this product yet, not. Once we move in, we'll try the shower first to see if we think it needs it.

Mine has got one at the bottom, nothing at the top though and there are no tapped holes either. This is the LXN5, so not the the deeper version which has a few more bells and whistles. I'm using the Weidmuller T&E connectors. I've almost completed the loft panel now, which controls first floor blinds, curtains, bathroom UFH and towel rails and 5A lighting circuits. I'm just missing some terminal blocks, as I had forgotton about termination of all the DALI lighting. I've avoided daisy-chaining between relays/dimmers, but this does result in a lot of cable and the need for some "power distribution" terminal blocks which I've putting on the bottom rail. (I think I'm going to need to cut the bottom rail in half, so the RHS portion can sit further back)

All depends how much you compress it. An uncompressd 8k stream is 24 Gbps. Same here. What it allows is for blinds to be opened/closed based on room temperature and direction of the sun, even if you are not at home. This is not critical if you already have overhangs/canopies well-designed, but still cool. We're hoping this will be useful in the summer to minimize solar gain and avoid for active cooling. Loxone really starts to get expensive one you buy lots of their fancy light switches. On the one hand, with presense sensors, you shouldn't really need as many light switches as you normally would, but given same switch also controls lighting scenes, blinds, music and global functions we ended up using 3 in most bedrooms, and thats when things add up. A lower cost approach to automating only specific things is something like https://shelly.cloud/

Google tells me that rats do eat popcorn, but not if it's very buttery or salty. So looks like the sweet stuff out of the picture! Also looks like the plan is pre-popped styrofoam-like boards from the photo.

It doesn't have to be the case, if things are sized corectly, but it can be otherwise. I'm pretty sure others have mentioned this as issue in past..so maybe others can comment.

I like @ETC's second option personally. Seems to meet your requirements too.

Begs a few questions: - What is the u-value of popcorn? - Is popcorn vapour-permeable? - Would it come pre-popped or be popped-on-site? - Sweet or salty? https://www.uni-goettingen.de/en/3240.html?id=6481

The approach uses a 10mm hot return for each outlet that needs it (and only the outlets that need it) rather than a common loop i.e. the return is also radial. So you could plumb all these outlets directly to a manifold next to the UVC. You may find these don't need a return, depends on exact distance, flow rate and if how many seconds wait is acceptable. These you would you take off of the same manifold and then bring a return a 10mm return from each of them. If you put these these on the furtherst end of the manifold (as @Nickfromwales suggests) then the recirculation to kitchen and WC, will also heep manifold and pipes to manifold warm, helping with wait time for water to the bathroom basins.

The benefit in our case was that I was able to design out the need for a HRC loop (and the associate loseses) and still get hot water very quicily at outlets. Also I think it probably also means less impact on one hot outlet when another outlet is used.