phatboy

In the end, after much tampering, I got this working. I had to connect as below: A1 - permanent live B1 - switching live (variable voltage) A2 - neutral 15 - volt-free + from HMRV unit 18 - volt free - from MHRV unit Between the relay unit and the cooker hood (next to the MHRV unit), I have added a 3-pole fan isolator switch, as a means of local isolation. @PeterW's guidance didn't entirely work for some reason, luckily I had routed a permanent live there and not chopped it back yet

Got through this finally today.... already had a flexible section in the duct close to the unit, but opted to just insert another one at the other end of the run, on the end of a 45degree piece, job done!

I'm excited for you... it will change your cable labelling life for ever! I also got a 9mm vinyl roll of tape, which is nice for marking faceplates that don't have an obvious purpose. They also do heat shrink you can put through it ?

I use a Dymo Rhino printer, with Flexible Nylon 19mm tape. When the machine is set to wrap, it prints the text longways multiple times, so it can always be seen. Once the tape is stuck, a few hours later its a fight to remove it. It also has modes for printing entire patch panels / consumer units with proper spacing. Costs a lot, but I borrow the work one

This is true..... some plastic angle i had to fit the other day happily deformed in the heat, so I may be able to persuade a 1m length to do the same, a bit This is the sort of lateral thinking I'm lacking the past few weeks. Lot's of CT1 and gorilla foil tape is in stock!

Hi all, I am finally fitting the last pipe to my system - the 5" intake. Where it exits the soffit, I had hoped to use a 45' bend, but sadly this is ever so slightly too wide, and hits the back of the MHRV unit, when it needs to pass just behind it. I can use flexi pipe, but was hoping not to, as it will be a small weakness in the otherwise carefully detailed system and also require more physical supports. Does anyone know of a supplier of, say, 40' bends? In my mind its like plumbing, and you don't often want a true 45 or 90! Can't even get away with partially inserting the connector, with the type I have. Thanks Tim

Thanks Peter, If I only send a switching supply to it, what will control the over-run timer?

Hi again all, I ordered the relay as suggested by @Nickfromwales, and the time has come to install it. The wiring isn't quite as I am used to, so hopefully I can run by my understanding of it to you all? Schematic is shown here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIC-1CMDT0-Multi-Function-12-230Vac-dc-SPCO/323787573022?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 A1 - Permanent live from hood (240v) A2 - Neutral from hood B1 - Switching live from good (voltage will vary) 16 - Volt free + from MHRV unit 18 - Volt free - from MHRV unit (I think this is the NO terminal) Relay mode - sf Any confirmations or corrections gratefully received Tim

Well, for a window of area of just under 1.2m square, I've been quoted an astounding £396, of which 285 is the 3m material. Looks like ill be boarding up the window! Can anyone suggest any good films that I may be able to buy myself? Thanks Tim

No, it is 8 hours. Just from what I understand, in mainland UK, you get 'Economy 10' which offers the same service (3 periods of cheap power per day), but with a different number of hours. This is the actual tariff, but I was trying not to overly complicate https://www.jec.co.uk/your-home/our-tariffs-and-rates/comfort-heat/

Well I'm on a different tariff, which gives 4 hours of cheap heating overnight, 2 hours during the day and 2 more in the evening. I believe it's similar to 'Economy 10' on the mainland. As I recall, the peak element will only come on once the heater decides it's more than 50% depleted and has fallen 2 degrees below the desired room temperature. The heaters are however VERY well insulated, and are never hot to touch, barely even warm in fact. There is considerably more insulation than older heaters I've had. On Economy 7, certainly down in the warmer area I am, I don't think the peak element would ever need to come on as the retain heat so well. I've had them in for 3 winters now.

They do. I have Dimplex Quantum heaters, and they have a dial to set the desired room temperature, and the heater takes care of the rest. There is a menu system where other things can be set, but it's more of a one-time thing - only thing I changed was the default 'let the house cool during work hours' to 'home all day', which was easy.

Argh that would have been ideal! You have so much spare?! Never mind, I should have posted 2 weeks back when I realised the issue... Thanks for the offer, very much appreciated!

Thanks @JSHarris, I know someone who is experienced at installing the stuff so that's OK. I don't fancy it myself, I know exactly what would happen! I may have to try a couple of UK places and see if they will send to me, given the circumstances, then comes the fun of getting VAT removed. Or contact 3M and see if they can suggest someone locally. Had I anticipated the issue before the EWI was installed 3 years ago, I would have likely done this. However it would be a massive nightmare now, and I wouldn't have space above to place it or anywhere to affix it to the building! :(

Can anyone recommend an online supplier for these films? Our daughters bedroom get's extremely hot when the sun shines in and keeping the curtains and thermal blinds down is nowhere near effective enough. In Jersey we have a limited number of suppliers, and so options. The only film I have been offered so far is Image Perfect ip303r, which I have found absolutely no information online for Thanks! Tim

Do they all have this? On the old and very common Dimplex XL series I thought it was completely reliant on the user to close the flap? Also on the XLS series which was sold right up until LOT20 came in? Happy to be corrected.....

Use earthwool, which is sold in B&Q. It's very low itch, I did it in shorts and a t-shirt! The proper glass fibre is usually yellow or pink, where as the earthwool is brown

Progress update from today! Took @joe90 's sensible suggestion and roof mounted the unit, and included a generous piece of rubber: And then cracked on with the pipework. Will insulate it all next week. I did in the end buy the flexible rubber adapters, and they were less hassle than the metal flexipipe, and look to cause less restriction (BPC have now removed them from their site!) It won't look as pretty as some others have managed as I don't have a nice wall behind to run everything on, but it will be done right (I hope!) and work Tim

Well this is my situation.... the cables aren't ever likely to move now, and are behind about 90mm of EPS. So also difficult to replace! (Sorry for the thread hi-jack!)

Let's say, 'someone' didn't know about the risks at the time, and the EWI installer didn't mention it before going ahead.... Is there a likely timeline before it causes an expensive issue?!

Hmmm, I thought they looked thicker? Maybe I can make up some nice floral ones!!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PVC-TABLE-CLOTH-TREES-VINTAGE-BIRDS-DAISY-FLOWERS-LEAF-BLUE-PINK-YELLOW-WIPEABLE/292177301611?hash=item44071fd06b:m:mR9buH5OfLHYRMemZ2jR5uA

BPC aren't quick responding to me (I need to contact them as we don't pay VAT in Jersey) Does anyone know of any other suppliers of these new flexible pipes? Google isn't much help!

I've contacted BPC to check if it is a new product, and will likely purchase 4 of them - will ask for a good deal as a very recent customer!. Also saves faffing with the metal insulated stuff and the risks of cutting myself!

Ah, these? https://www.bpcventilation.com/flexible-rubber-circular-connector Not cheap though when you need 4 at least!

Yes that's the stuff I am going to use, as BPC sent me a 10m length of it. So it's flexible, but inside seems reasonable smooth and strong once it's stretched out.