ash_scotland88

Noticed the thread has snapped on the nut on the radiator tail. It was off for decorating and when refitting wouldn't take to the thread or would eventually jump off with a quarter turn. I can only find extension sorts on Screwfix and Toolstation, am I being blind? I'm looking for a standard (they are all standard sizing?) radiator tail. Any advice appreciated.

Not answering your question, but I haven't found information on their website, and also asked the question. Do you know what sizes of bars they offer?

Right now I have sat down and hopefully dont have the other half yabbering in my ear about something distracting my train of thought.... Current set up is a ring mains with a spur from junction. I am looking to add more sockets and essentially rewire the study, at this part of the ring. I will be adding more sockets into the ring, keeping it as a proper ring circuit but also for ease was thinking of making the sockets above the desk height as spured from socket below. This will be one double socket from one double socket. But as there is already a spur from junction I was unsure if this would even limit the number of spur from socket.* And/or best practise now the opportunity presents itself I should change the "spur from junction" to a "spur from socket". *my understanding is that for each socket on a ring main you can have one unfused spur per socket. So if it's 10sockets you can spur a further 1 (unfused) off each making a total of 20. (drawings can also be provided if required for further clarification)

Excuse the links to websites, and appologies my terminology may not always be correct. So this is what is currently in place: https://flameport.com/electric/socket_outlet_circuits/ring_circuit_overview_spur_jb_T.png If I spur from socket with current set up then this would be the case: https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/project_images/spursocket/Spurs_from_ring_main.jpg?ezimgfmt=rs:298x143/rscb98/ng:webp/ngcb98 (but a few more spurs from sockets) What I was wondering if by having a spur from junction is there then limitations on the number of total spurs from sockets allowed? Or if by good practice the type (junction Vs socket) should be kept to only one type in a circuit? And there for best practice I should change the spur from junction to spur from socket

(can a mod love to correct forum please?) I know why I supplied the socket from a junction box- existing runs being plastered in the wall. But I totally get what you are saying. Although, in theory, anyone opening the socket will see that it's only one lot of cables. And anyone who doesn't won't know, much the same as a normal spur, there's no physical difference on the outside to say that can only take 20amps.

Can't quickly find the answer(s). I know you can't spur a spur, so to speak. But can a ring mains with a spur from a junction box be mixed with spurs from sockets? From memory it'll be no biggy to put into a socket now if it can't be, just there will be a junction box and join left in place as a negative. Adding more sockets to the study and will almost be a 1 spur per socket for ease for the sockets above desk height.

Unless you're working upside down, back to front and left hand under and right hand over and then it's...uhm...maybe...

If anyone is on the edge of their seat anticipation.... The two core is in fact twin and earth, neutral was hiding underneath. And goes to a light in the adjoining hall. All earths and neutrals are connected in the junction box. Three neutrals, four earths. Will try and wago that mess but anything I can do regarding the T&E and for power for an LED driver instead of just out the top? And further question.... Planning on LED strip in this back hall (attached to ceiling light down wall) and in the adjoining hall. This will be Alexa/hue controlled for timers etc, guessing regs say this still needs a light switch even if we don't have any requirements for it be manually controlled.

It could be earthing is added later. I don't think ive ever seen so much earthing on plumbing before around the house. I'm looking at my photo of the junction and now doubting myself that the 2core neutral is relabled earth and what ever the green sleeve is is from something else.

I think come this weekend I shall investigate whats happening, do it in the daylight where i can turn off the MCB

Got the wiring ok'd when the CU was upgraded, and had some dating of 80something for some of the ring mains. But yeah, this hole is a cluster F. Why will conduit be the earth when there is also earth cable? And you can see an earth cable going up the conduit and out. Unless something else crops up I think I agree with your live at switches and looped neutral. Although I honestly only remember one neutral at the couple of lights I've changed along with seperate earth that disappears up the conduit and isn't a short link from light to conduit. Inspecting what goes to the other light of the 2gang will rule out if that's what the extra cable supplies. As a small extra bit of info the Chinese that used to install Chinese lanterns at edin zoo used screwits all over the place then wondered why they had loads of issues. Give me a 16a grelco/ trelco any day of the week! (Also just because I am nosey green and yellow earth makes an appearance in 77 according to Google)

Here we go. Rat nest Junction Switch Junction, presumable bottom conduit is down to switch. Right conduit is to light1. Then 2core and left conduit is anyone's guess without investigation. (Hopefully got those around the right way since website rotated it)

Cheers, I was half expecting different colours as a means of identification. Such as having one as yellow, but I appreciate this may be further confused as L2. But in counter to this there is yellow cabling used elsewhere but thats in a 2gang 2way switch - from memory. The fact there appears to be no neutral (black) at switch wouldn't that suggest looped at switch? I can rule out looped at light as I've only ever seen 2 cables at each light when I've changed the odd fixture so far. Easiest thing; i'll grab pictures tomorrow evening.

Why did I go exploring?! Found what I am presuming is the junction box. Rat's nest of cable as it's above the fuse box too! ? Someone has ran an extra 2core (no earth?) To it, or from it, and has just left one side unscrewed allowing it be ran in. It (junction box) is using the old fashioned twist terminal connections, including a few other junctions in the same access hatch. The two core appears to be a live and earth, have the neutral taped up as earth. There does appear be a neutral there but on first inspection not sure if there are enough for a supply and two lights worth. I'll grab a pic tomorrow. Even though it's out of sight it's upsetting me to know that mess is there. But I suppose that's years of ad-hoc electrical work. Promising that I found it, unsure how to proceed in the correct manner.

They also do all in one outdoor units now.

We've had no issue over the winter so far. They are the outdoor lamps in outdoor housing, although I appreciate they're not insulated and heated.

Had an issue before where a live disconnected from a light switch, which meant some other lights stopped working, only recently learned that looped through light switches is a thing. Hoping that others on the ground floor are the same I looked at the wiring of one. It's a 2gang switch for 2 seperate lights. There are 4 red cables, (well 5 if the small live link cable is included). So it's looking positive that this is also a looped at switch? Doesn't this make it really difficult to problem solve or attach a new switch if the cables aren't marked up? And I'm guessing if there is no sign of a joined neutral in the back box I will have to find where the junction box is if I wanted to add an extra switch and light?

It'll be temporary untill the laundry room gets touched, so who knows how long. I don't mind solvent welding if it will be the better solution.

What if there is no overflow? ? Guessing the standpipe has to be above the overflow as if there is a reason for back flow (correct term?) then it'll come out of the overflow first instead of the standpipe, which is open and onto floor. In that case am I then better to, again, cut into the 32mm ubend to fit a t-piece then jump sizes for a hose connector? If so what pieces am I best to use?

When you say had to be above sink, what part? Your top pic is very similar to what I bought, but without going crazy with sizing adapters I haven't been able to find a 32mm version. Bottom is what I'm proposing to create out of 32mm pipe.

This is what's currently there: https://ibb.co/vhthpxN Thinking I could cut out the down pipe to allow this to be inserted: https://www.toolstation.com/solvent-weld-1350-branch/p45994 And then create my own stand pipe with other angles and 32mm pipe for the hose to sit in. Only issue with that is the u bend and stand pipe become one big thing. But apart from once an age I don't foresee it being an issue.

May I ask how you got it via a free install?

Got to love an old house! Laundry room has old cast double butler sinks, the deep ones for hand washing laundry. These are on 32mm pipes and upgraded at some point to plastic. Washer dryer used to drain by just hooking the hose over sink but we think the pump is beginning to struggle as it doesn't always fully drain and is above the 1m instruction manual height. Looking for help to piece/buy an appliance trap/stand pipe to work on 32mm. My google-fu is weak this morning. Obviously needs to screw into the bottom of the sink but then the rest of the pipes appear to be (loosely) push fit. And I can't find the correct parts to make it all work. I know what I need but struggling to find them if they exist. Don't mind if it's all 32mm (thinking stand pipe) or uses size adapters (for the push fit hose connector).

I just need to pull my finger out and do them. But yeah, suppose your right. Build costs may prohibit it within this year.

So not even got plans drawn yet for the ensuite but noticed b&q have the shower we want for sale and with the Mira cashback it's £100/third off. Is it crazy to buy one without having a means to test?