ash_scotland88

Thought I posted this on friday.. _____________________________________________ Sorry guys, spat out my dummy a wee bit. It's nice talking about fitting further heat recovery methods, PV panels etc, but any of you guys feel like gifting me the money to do so? The downstairs shower room would be only occasionally used and on rarity, the most day to day use it will receive is when the family bathroom gets modernised. Trying to research figures on flow rates of showers but very few give information on them, on a standard thermo mixing shower head anywhere between 3l/m-6l/m it appears, so allowing a further 10-13l/m for a fancier rain shower head for the odd occasion both are in use appear reasonable, or am I missing something here? @TonyT one company came back disucssing high flow rate boilers, but looking on paper apart from brand it's offering the same L/m and Kw as other boilers (worcester vs ideal) so what may the difference be*? Our house (big old 30s but limited on space where to put an immersion in a sensible location) current tank is only half height under the attic stairs in a bedroom. Any way decided in the short term downstairs and upstairs will run off combi, and if the 10year plan of an ensuite comes to fruition then boiler/how showers are heated can be re-evaluated then.

I received a quote today for replacing single glazing with double. Think it's 20 windows but about 8 of them are "duplicates" £28k! Had a supply only quote for £12 from a company but they can manufacture to a custom design.

None of the heating engineers recommended one as a solution, a couple raised in passing about storage combis. Grew up with a hot water tank, plenty of disappointment as the water ran out. Or coming home from somewhere in need of a shower (or a mid day baking session) and as it was used up in the morning had to wait for the water to heat. Even a thermostatic shower some-one running the kitchen tap and had to step out the shower due to the change before it adjusted itself- don't even think about filling up the kettle if dad was in the shower! I appreciate efficiency moves on in 20years. Even the future in-laws who had a replacement done a couple of years a go these issues still persist- but no idea on their system apart from it being a tank. I understand why you two are suggesting it, due to very little loss of flow. Boiler's we've been quoted have had 16+ Lpm flow rates. Which I know is determined by our mains feed but then a tank can also be. Then there is more work and space requirement for moving the immersion out of a bedroom cupboard and I am limited by the space the house has to offer. All this is just more day rates for the plumber so surely they would prefer this if it was all about money for them? Apart from the odd occasion possibly all three showers will be running at once and someone washing up it's not needed and doesn't answer the original question. But planning to future proof for 5-10years time when there will be two adults and a child (or two) showering before work and school.

Yes, and got an install date. House is too big and too old for anything like ASHP, sadly.

Current heating source is immersion and electric shower, radiators are electric (not storage, not anything fancy just plane old gets hot metal radiators) All quotes are coming in for a combi. Currently just the the two of us but future proofing for family.

Doing some mental planning ahead and looking to hear advice on how to heat water for three showers - only one currently exists. If all three get built we would have the ensuite, upstairs bathroom and downstairs shower room. Bathroom and shower room need renovated. The upstairs bathroom is currently a bath, wc + sink and separate shower-room which will be knocked together, the ensuite will be the last on the list to be built and could be a number of years down the line. Boiler (combi) is being specced to supply two showers. If all three happen the downstairs shower room would be the least used, so does this make sense to run off more expensive electric? Or would the ensuite be best for electric as it preserves flowrates/water pressure for the possibility of someone also using the bathroom at the same time?

I'm sorry but I don't see the aesthetic joys in multipanel. They're reminiscent of caravans, hospitals and any commercial changing space. But for ease and improvement of waterproofing may be subject to them in a downstairs toilet.

And it's never good when the person from the office shows up!... They've cleared some of it and are now working on revealing a new access cover. Guy from office says he's happy to produce a report for our solicitor (not long moved in) or insurance company depending how (or if) we want to pursue it.

If anyone wants an update this morning, There are tree roots blocking the drains. We have a main access half way in our front lawn and which opens to two spurs. The one leading to the toilet and one leading to back of house.

Hopefully, then after that it's a roofer out to repair some tiles and flashing around a chimney breast. Finger's crossed nothing else major is needed before central heating goes in. The cooker lasted 6days from currys before failing.

I did find a can of the stuff in the house (we accepted it with contents, got about 20 different part china tea sets!). And tried that as the suction cup could be changed to "toilet mode" did hee-haw. Drainage poeple hopefully coming out tomorrow afternoon, £93.20 an hour and they'll go over any major findings and costs (ie they wont just dig a hole to rebuild a pipe and charge you)

There's a localish waterjet company, no idea if they offer suction too, but going to phone them tomorrow. Kitchen sink has slowed down already, no idea if it's same issue or we've been over zealous with washing dirty pots and bits of food down there already.

Going to need a specialist. https://ibb.co/27fZGRS https://ibb.co/FKM1KRv The toilet is under the window. The drain nearest to camera feels bone dry and filled with gravel with drainage rods. The circular one has the sink like an open drain directly into it, and maybe the toilet as it was a lot foamier than expected from just a hand wash - tried bleach with the mop action. This is also blocked as when using drainage rods with a rubber circle attachment I can hear it about waste height on the down pipe, there's definitely leaves down there. Around the house other rectangular ones I can see the water level, one looks filled with small polystyrene balls and one even has a tree route growing into it and is packed with soil. Buy an old house they said...

Thank you, we do have a mop so may try that although not an old school janitor style- there may be one in the house somewhere. As a secrete extra tidbit we do have the original blue prints but wary of unrolling them. The plan is to get a reprographic place to do it, copy and digitise and return to the tube. These may have the drainage plans drawn. House was built in 1936.

Tried it from outside but wasn't sure what access point was for the toilet. But, as per usual, your right. It's been siliconed around the joints (can see it in the photo), so presumably peel that off and would need to be redone on fitting.

Cheers. It lets out water fine from the cistern, just doesn't want to drain from the bowl with any speed. I may need to relent and phone a plumber, or buy some enzymes. The toilet had several packets of old medicated toilet paper in the room, my suspects are that's caused a blockage somewhere. It's also a vertical drop to the space below the floor (barely a crawl space) and enters the ground.

Hoping to avoid installing a new toilet as hopefully turning the room into a shower room soon - budget allowing.

Old toilet in our old house is very slow to drain. It will fill up the pan, let out a gurgle or two then slowly drain. Some-one suggested it may be a siphonic toilet, something I'd never heard of till then. Toilet u-bend shape https://ibb.co/NVVtKb0 Inside cistern https://ibb.co/DK65Tyy The middle seal let's the water out, the one on the left doesn't move unless I manually lift it. Since playing with it the water drains quicker but not what I'd say with any force to remove solids. I've tried chemicals, a short auger, garden hose incase there was a blockage.

Currently it's just storage. I thought it makes more sense as any heat rising from the rooms below will be "trapped" by the insulation between their ceiling and the attic floor. Instead of having of to heat the room below and then the attic before finally being "trapped" by the installation of rafter insulation.

We have an attic with proper stairs, all original. The make-up is from appearance Lathe and plaster Joists Floor boards The actual walking floor is is quite high up from the lathe and plaster. I'd need to measure but I'd say a good 300-450mm. Around the attic one can access between the joists (flooring isn't to the edge) and (hoping) a line or two carefully removed from the centre of the toungue and grove boards to be returned. Is blown insulation an option here? Anything to be aware of? Anyone have handy links to read up on it?

@ProDave youve got it correct! Running on empty. There's original tiles in the old area I'd like to keep so keen to avoid drilling into them.

Oh dear, I'm feeling like an other for the forum users... Spark said to me before installing new cooker she'd recommend "product x" shorten the flex that's coming out, put in "product x" and then flex to new cooker. I can't remember "product x" my memory is calling it a cooker control unit but it appears as I have one. Is a cooker control unit the only form of safety for a cooker or can I install something else? (Which may in term help jog my memory of what I was told).

There is one. Switch for cooker (has the flex coming out) Switch for dishwasher Single socket. Unless that is not one. But I was wondering if what I was remembering to ideally buy was the term I was actually remembering - if that makes sense. https://ibb.co/DPF34Rb

Had a spark round to quote for a new CU and have a quick glance at electrics in our old house. Before fitting the new cooker she recommended what I am remembering as a cooker control unit, inline of the current flex. But googling it looks like what we already have on the wall. Is there something else that can (maybe should with current regs) go inline between between the switch and cooker? She described it as an isolator so work can be done on the oven without turning off at the board/ extra safety.

That could very much be it! Guessing (without googling) it's remove render (harling) to expose the length, treat the steel with some chemical coating, then patch up.