ash_scotland88

Small update: Pipesnug fits nicely, not snug but that's because the old lead hole is bigger which I knew. Thinking a ring of silicone to secure it on. But while starting today noticed one waste was 32mm and one 40mm (or whatever the old imperial sizes are). Also reading its not advised to have more than one trap in a system. So with that all in mind and not wanting to bodge further (I could have simply replaced one p-trap under the sink then done what I had to for the washer+dryer) I've decided to redo to the best of my knowledge. New Belfast sink wastes ordered (hoping they'll seal correctly) for matching sizes, and now will be running with an in-line trap before exiting thru wall. Coming to learn while the house was done properly in the 60s reno anything later was done on the cheap.

It's brick/brick.

As per previously thread redoing the waste arrangement in the utility. I've taken out the old 32mm knowing it had sealant holding it in a (presumably) lead lined hole. This was held in place with sealant, and maybe some mortar by the feel of the left over material. Hole is roughly 60mm internal diameter. I've seen Pipesnug as a brand. So ideas for correct methods? Some rubbish photos.... https://ibb.co/R3J2NfP https://ibb.co/Bc1bWDQ

Not sure if the part exists but can you get a 32mm BSP to compression fitting elbow? The BSP side has to be the type that screws onto the bottom of plug hole, like a trap. I'm not confident it does. If not it's the same diagram as above but 3xtraps instead of 1.

It goes straight into soil stack, had the cover off and you can see the old lead and newer plastic. Do both sinks and appliance standpipe all need separate traps? The whole thing can be redone, needs it anyway as it's only 32mm. I think this is the best way I can draw it without going 3D... https://ibb.co/hLFbF7s There's probably some extra straight sections I've missed, I know the appliance length between the tee and 90 will need an extra 90 to go around a corner.

Looking for advice on a product/plumbing. We have big old deep hand wash sinks. There are two of them and they're side by side, so obviously two drains. They currently do their plumbing thing (traps, elbows etc) but then come together where they exit through the wall. The hole through the wall is not quite centered to the sinks. The tee piece currently in use has the preferred flow route on the longer horizontal run, the other side still sloping down slightly due to the angle of fall, so perhaps prone to stagnant water? Having to redo the waste to allow proper appliance draining, is there anything better to use? Small bit of knowledge is to avoid the lower run but I'm not sure how to best design it. https://ibb.co/x1CRMKn https://ibb.co/g9LD4W0

It appears gone are the days of running them outside to show off your fancy indoor plumbing and drainage system!...

So I ended up using that adaptor. The washer dryer has now died a death and we're going to replace with separate units. What I have been reading is that washing machines shouldn't be used on 32mm wastes. Due to high pressure discharge 32mm can't always cope. How true is this?

Yeah, spoke to one of the custom sizes places and they said it shouldn't matter. Think a fixed option is going to be best. Keeps the glazing size maximum and is triple glazed as standard. Will just need to shell it out.

My memory if the sizes were wrong. 510 X 760 internal Also learnt/used laser and pitch angle is 48- 50degrees. Which puts a lot of the custom 45degree ones out of running.

Trying to replace an old single glazed, hand cranked window. It's no doubt the original one and as such the glass sits on top of the frame and not in the frame. It leaks, it's draughty and we don't the winding handle. Can only get access from inside and the opening to opening size is roughly 49cm X 74cm. If it was me I'd just get a fixed glazing, but any quotes I have found have been £800+ for the size. It's on a landing above 2m. What sort of modern standard sized window would this equate to?

I think contamination is my biggest concern with regards to reuse. The windows were replacing the original wooden ones, only chance to get to the cavity is taking the old frames out. They did use insulation roll to stuff down the cavity to minimise it, apart from the first one which produced most of the bags!... I have my own reservations regarding the use of it but having a quick Google on the day seems to be a standard method.

Small update regarding the r9s. The guys have been working incredibly hard in a more difficult house than expected to install. There's some making good of wood, having kept the interior cills and surrounds. I believe we may be the first official r9 install in Scotland, eg not went through an English company for supply 😛 They are definitely the right windows for the house although we're ready to move on from this stage of works. But I have to keep saying it's not a paint colour we can correct later, this is permanent let's make sure it's done right no rush!

Just thought I'd get a feeling of ideas of what others may do in this situation. 1930s detached. We have had new windows fitted, this has resulted in about two dozen black bags worth of the cavity wall insulation falling out. We don't have access to the cavity, first floor is slopped from shoulder height and the floored attic is floor to the pitch. At some point in the future we will have more extensive works done, internal walls down, 3m+ opening on outside wall, new studs up. My own personal thoughts of cavity wall insulation is that it's a cavity for a reason, but there is no sign of damp ingress in this house. Although having sat in a pile of the stuff while rewiring in the sun I can see the benefits having quickly got warm legs... We used a leaf blower/vacuum to pick up the balls so there is mixed in other stuff. So my current thoughts 1) bin/recycle the stuff and do nothing 2) cut hole(s) in the lathe and plaster to pour back in to the worst areas of loss 3) we want to eventually remove the lathe and plaster slopes, insulate between joists and board over with insulated plaster board. Take this opportunity to pour it back in - although I don't want to hold onto the bags till that happens so purchase of new. 4) pay a company to "top-up" from outside, no doubt with new. Do this now but most likely do it after the "bifolds" are done. As this may be done before first floor works are done. We're at a loss what to do and all options seem a viable thing, but we could also be missing an obvious answer.

Evolution r985 and st1400 pack

Anyone have these two combo? Had the circ saw for a while and bought the guide rails but it appears to be about 5mm out when cutting on 0degree, 45degree notch aligns fine. Is this a flaw of all guide rails? Means you either have to calculate that 5mm difference in each measure and cut, which means if you calculate the wrong way throwing away product. Or go back with the saws inbuilt trimmer edge, but again wastage of material.

Look at you all laddydeeda with flight bags that are easily reachable meaning you go off on a flight at a moment's whim.... 😜

So an update. Random daydreaming/hoping on the residence website and noticed finally a supplier up in Scotland! Expecting them to be too expensive sent off the same "schedule" as I have done and it came back cheaper than most quotes for lesser products. Residence r9 in grain white. We asked for a price for dual colour (clotted cream ext) and the cost pushed us beyond our limit. We've now added an extra door and window (originally delayed that room for when we knock thru) and still getting more for less. Even the number of install days are significantly more days. The owner seems a great guy and is really knowledgeable and passionate about his products.

Unfortunately with digitisation and a recent lack of personnel investment in council building standards department large development site inspections have lead to some questionable practices, most noticeably the allowance for sending in photos as proof of work done. In other words if an issue is flagged and needs to be rectified on a site visit then the builder (or whoever is in charge of that aspect) can send a photo of the improved works as proof it has been done, as per the inspectors request. NHBC, South+North Lanarkshire and Stirling (I think) are all allowing this process to happen (as well as in the past year had a large recruitment drive). NHBC even has videos on YouTube demonstrating how great this would be...

Quote came back, more than 2.5x the online quote/estimate. I get theres a fitting cost and astragals can add amount, and an amount for fitting, but that's crazy difference.

I hope not half the quality... The other issue I found when looking is a lot of companies appear to only fit into 60s wimpy estates onwards. I found these guys where they fitted windows into a Victorian tenement.

Any body have any experience or knowledge on these? Googling doesn't give much insight, 1.2 u-values for whole units seems comparable. Got a man coming out later in the week to quote, their online quotes are very competitive if they come close in person. Was originally looking at Rio or dehau (can't afford residence) but anyone I've contacted goes quiet when it comes to giving a quote.

Coming back to this thread I'd recommend anyone looking at improving a small cottage to read up on Downies Cottage. https://www.historicenvironment.scot/archives-and-research/publications/publication/?publicationId=134ef4b1-90e5-4dcc-b1da-a6dc00a9b4ee Google will provide more results once past the holiday listing website. And absolute beauty of a property wonderfully modernised and improved while still keeping all its charm.

Been wondering the same for our house. 1930s built. One quarter(ish) of the ground floor is concrete, even has an air brick and pipe allowing through air to the hallway. This would be done when the great dinning room and kitchen knock downs, through and glazing project happens. The concrete area is currently kitchen, back hall, pantry, coal store and laundry room. We'd only do the back hall and kitchen areas. But keeping an eye on this thread. As to keep on track, only way to know is a test hole.

https://freeimage.host/i/HfiDZe1 https://freeimage.host/i/HfiDQ5P Hard to take a decent photo of something that looks like careless builders. Annoyingly couldn't find the bit show casing builders rubble underneath.