ash_scotland88

https://ibb.co/Srng8Dk https://ibb.co/c6F6w3S Couple of images uploaded.

If I remember tomorrow I will do.

So moved into the new place and noticed some blown harling under neath a window (or French doors as they're almost floor to ceiling) Peeking out is some rotten metal, but I can't work out why. Only thought is a lintel below the opening, but then again why apart from distribution of load. Was this the done thing back in 1930s when the house was built?

What would be the cheapest way to create more worktop space? Worktop legs and an offcut of surface, would it be stable enough? It would end up being like a peninsular.

I can't feel damp. Every time when taking putting away the washing I have to ask "is this damp, or is this cold?"

By wrapping it around like that you've reduced its SWL, or so i was always told.

No.

Is it as simple as it means? Too cold to operate? https://twitter.com/highlandweather/status/1359746226967707652/photo/1

Thanks, So just to confirm when I have start using the other sensor: Sync between the units Link the negative too. Wee bit disappointed that 10% dim isn't that dim, but that could be down to the driver or the LED lamp. I think I would even be happy with the lamp on 10% as the full power. @carrerahill since you appear knowledgable is it possible to get a dimmer that takes the 1-10v "command" but is full 230v out? Trying to find 48V dimmable lamps have been a pain.

Finally got the parts of to test it and it works, as planned- got a bargain on a 48v dimmer from ebay. Although only trying it with one sensor as I didn't want to purchase all the parts for both. Is someone able to explain why the instructions say do not connect 1-10v of the drivers when their diagram shows the - connected? http://www.hytronik.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Instruction-manual-for-HC019V.pdf If it makes a difference I am only using driver.

It's surprising how bad this can be. Our bedroom window ends up pretty wet once winter starts, I presume it's a mix of the colder outside and warmer inside. But the other half he doesn't like the trickle vents open, even during the day, which is ironic as we tend to open the windows slightly September/November to let the room air out from the moisture on the windows. Some mornings it's a towel to clear off the windows. By December/January what ever conditions have caused this have rectified itself and we wake up with only the smallest about of condensation.

I've stayed in cabins that look very similar to those for work, apart from they had a "wing" for a second bedroom.

Our GCH is noisey no doubt because of this. Oh, it's just started up again. A nice white noise whir.

Probably doesn't reach that temperature as something got turned down due to too much noise....

Out of a total change of subject and being totally nosey what do you do in your workshop?

Hoped someone would come along and explain it. I suppose the unitower saves buying the expansion vessel, heat exchanger (that's the hydraulic unit they talk about?) and tank all separately. I like a nice long shower so worried the tank may not be enough, but I suppose a gas boiler 300l tank may be specced. Where did you see £5k for 12kw? I think I've seen £7k. On installation costs only with the RHI payment we would be "in profit" at the end of 7years, even at £7k. This is where the temptation to go ASHP comes from.

Got the sensors and covers today, the covers are bigger than expected! I've been a bit lazy with ordering the LED driver and a LV lamp.

I really wish I bookmarked it last night, it was a third party site announcing the launch, I knew deep down this is was wrong but wondered if having a high water temp could help with this claim or if the unitower could top up with hot water upto a certain point before tank was drained, eg for every 1L used it could refill with 0.5L till the tank was cold. Until we are in the house we can't do calc's to really know what is required, beyond the EPC from the home report but the more I read and the more I think about it about it I do think it will be gas in the end. It's the safer option. I'm coming to think unless three (minimum for quotes) heating installers quote a ASHP could heat the house comfortably and have spare capacity if we ever decide to take up naked sweatbox yoga in the house* then it's too much of a risk. To give you an idea the lounge is 6.5mx5.5m (at the biggest points) with a box window and two patio doors and fireplace, not exactly air tight. *exaggeration, it's only fun when in a class....

In my constant internal debate of gas vs ASHP for our new (old and no CH) house latest research lead me to the arotherm plus, promising a whole world of wonders. What confuses me is the 190L UniTower it launches with claims to provide enough hot water for a 5person house, or atleast one product launch I read about it last night did - typically when I try to find the article to link to I can't. How can 190L provide so much hot water, if true? Is it because 75C water temp will be mixed with cold water at the shower, if so for higher efficiency and COPS isn't it better to have a larger tank stored at a lower temperature? Interestingly the CH flow rate is only upto 55C which may not be hot enough for some of the retrofit properties it advertises for, or am I wrong in this presumption? Any-one have any general thoughts about this product?

Because you're hand only tells if you is something is hot or cold. People are looking for numbers. As has been previously said 2degrees in the house can make all the comfortable difference but you and you're hand won't be able to tell what 2degrees is. The Others want to know how hot the water is coming into the radiator and how hot it is leaving, they will then be able to advise what needs to happen after this.

I've got access to various BES, BSI, BSEN documents if he really wants to get into it - which I always forget about having a large library of various digital copies of building documents etc

Because a few degrees off make all the difference. If my house is 19degrees I am comfortable, if it's 17 I'm starting to feel cold. Alternatively if it's 14degrees outside it's jeans and a top, if it's 16 it's shorts and t-shirts. Yet 16degrees in the house is cold but outside it's warm. Weird, innit. I'm finding your reluctance to accept a phrase coined in an industry to use it's correct meaning incredibly frustrating. It's like going to France and refusing to believe "petit dejouner" is breakfast as it litterly translates as "small lunch" then telling everyone it's wrong and doesn't mean breakfast and you don't have a small lunch, you only eat a breakfast and lunch. /Rant over

An example of this is Truss. To most in here it will mean a roof trussing. For me my first thoughts are Prolyte Truss* (other brands are available). There's other terms that I have had to translate moving from event work to construction stuff, which I can't think of off the top of my head. *https://shopmtn.eu/products/prolyte-h30v-square-truss

@TonyT it may be but I think going low voltage with this all in one sensor may the best solution. My hope is the garage (we didn't get to see inside of it when viewing the house) at street level has power than I can use to power the "gate sensor." I company that sells in the UK has come back with the price of £25 per unit, which will be even cheaper than having to buy various seperate sensors doing quick head maths. Depending on cable requirments this is where costs may equal.

I still think upstairs rad is plumbed into the return of the system. Can't remember what my basis is on this.