Bozza

Ok so if you’re trying to have it matching the houses left and right and presumably want the living space to the rear this sketch took me 5 mins to throw together, based upon a 12m x 8m house as an example, so a circa 150 sqm house as is. Very approx. It makes the bedrooms all around 4x4 m, and the kitchen diner 4 or 5 m wide. Livingroom 5x4. your current design won’t match the neighbours as what windows you do have are all over the place. The adjacent houses are balanced and symmetrical. Your house would stand out externally and not in a good way. I think you know what you want but are struggling to convert it into a feasible design. You need to think about looking online at numerous house designs then tweak the best one to your needs, or get an architect. a good house designer or architect would never for example have so little natural light / windows or a toilet off a living area. Youll spend a small fortune building your house, if you’re struggling with house design get a pro in.

We had this very problem with out Rationel inward opening front door. The problem was when it rained heavily, with a prevailing wind towards the door, rainwater seeped in. initial action was to clear the external drainage slots in the threshold of any debris grit etc. To make sure that’s not the issue. If it’s not that, as was the case was with ours, we got a new door under warranty and it was fitted with tight adjustment. The frame and threshold wasn’t changed. This resolved the issue. So per what @ProDave and @Mr Punter has said, it’s likely to be the seals either being faulty and /or the door or needs adjusting to tighten the seals.. if i recall correctly the threshold drainage system in the frame is only secondary designed to drain away drips and residual water, and is not the primary method, it’s the main seals that do that. Shut and latch up your door handle to get a full seal then pour a jug of water down the outside of the door. If that seeps in I’m fairly certain it’s the main seals / adjustment issue, not the threshold.

Looking at the drone view I think you are right to change the exterior of the house shape to match the neighbours for the reasons you have stated. have a look though at house number 158 on the Danwood site for starters, ignore the cladding and the windows all that isn’t relevant.. Something like that house, also a longer thinner house, could work quite well on that site. I think with a longer thinner house it’s often better if you can get the staircase in a more central location. Obviously that particular house design wouldn’t be perfect for you but may be a starting point.

Would just add that from the info you’ve provided I was able to identify the plot and the previously submitted drawings which you feel you’ve improved upon with your design. You have a lovely plot and area as far as I can see an opportunity to build something fantastic. yes some challenges around plot shape (I had same problem). Looking at the previous drawings -v- what you’ve come up with I’m really struggling to understand where the improvement is and if you posted the existing drawings here alongside what you’ve come up with I’d be really surprised if anyone would agree there is an improvement. HOWEVER there may be a great reason why your unusual new layout and choices (no windows in rooms) is perfect for you and your circumstances and the former layout is totally unsuitable. So this goes back to my first reply if we have an understanding of your needs and wants and circumstances we should get much better advice to you. Though most self builders here will absolutely defend your right to ultimately build what your want to design and layout wise, as I do, we’ll also definitely advocate alternative ideas to help you make the best decision. you’ve indicated you are retired and don’t intend to move again. In which case I’d be advising you not to build this house with consideration to the aging process and ensure you have a living space downstairs that could be converted into a bedroom, with a shower if needed. Easily done. as a I say wait till @ETC sees your post he’s openly offered to assist people in your circumstances. I can’t wait to see what he comes up with TBH and I’m certain it will be a better alternative.

Are you able to provide photos of the plot to understand views etc. what size sqm are you looking at building. What are your circs ages, family, WFH, kids, dogs, house for life etc etc. have a look at Danwood homes website will have a few designs of houses that might give you some inspiration. @ETC will help with some good ideas when he sees the post.

Nobody in the forum will be able to provide you with the reassurance that your policy will provide you with coverage currently, and indeed even after the completion certificate has been issued. Some insurers provide self build policies that can then be converted into normal house insurance policies when the house is complete. But many insurers simply don’t offer self build policies. Normal house insurance policies usually don’t cover self builds. The problem you may have is that even though the building is now complete and you have been signed off, is that your policy was taken out presumably whilst you were still building. If you need to make a claim thereafter, especially a big one, you’ll likely find the insurer will argue that your policy is invalid due to misrepresentation at time of issue.

Yes self build insurance is a different thing to regular home insurance. Unsurprisingly, it’s more expensive. I think it’s unlikely a regular home insurance policy eg bought online would cover your circumstances unless your insurer was fully aware that you were living in an ongoing self build. That said though you’ll have a temporary occupation certificate, so whether that’s good enough for them. You 100% need to speak with your insurer asap to confirm coverage.

Exactly the point trying to highlight to OP I think a lot of people have read marketing guff and expected to get higher efficiency than they actually achieve in real life. Yeah I get pretty much what I expected too. I probably should have said “advertised” rather than “published”.

Not so much assumptions, surely if the cylinder is in the loft he’d need additional pumps? Happy to be corrected if that is technically wrong. Regarding my upgrading of rads observation unsure why you are critical of that as your earlier post also observed “Heat pump, install would require new radiators” unless you are meaning bigger BTUs doesn’t necessarily mean physically larger rads in which case yes I agree that’s a fair point but generally double panels are thicker (bit like me sometimes), but yes it is an assumption, though quite likely, he’ll need bigger whether wider, taller of thicker. my point re installers etc. yes agree with your point, the point I’m making though to OP is highlighting the risk with so many dodgy or inexperienced installers around not putting in correctly designed systems and having problems with them.

I agree entirely with what @Andehhhas said - I’m in the same boat & happy with my ASHP, though should be noted we didn’t have a mains gas option as are in a rural location. @Slippin Jimmy you also need to factor in a number of other negatives into your proposal in addition to what’s being mentioned. You’ve described your house as being a small new build. Firstly ASHP systems will require internal pumps - they can very noisy. It’s unlikely a small new build will have a location for them that won’t disturb you. To address this in our house we’ve turned down the pump speed which adversely affects efficiency. Secondly because you wouldn’t be putting un UFH you’ll be putting in bigger rads. They will inevitably take up much more space in smaller rooms. Thirdly ASHP systems require installers to be very knowledgeable to install a successful system that works effectively. A lot of ASHP installers in the UK don’t really have the experience or skills (yet) and so you are at risk of that not been the case. Fourthly the published efficiency of ASHPs is a bit like the published MPG of cars. We get 3x never anywhere near 4x.

1. Be careful about overheating, especially if south facing. 2. If one unit is too expensive you can break it up with fixed panels either side of a slider. 3. Rationel don’t do sliders but we put in their window doors. Which are full height side hinged windows you can use for egress, might be an option. We used a combo of their full height window doors and fixed panels but not over a huge gap like yours and broke them down with vertical breaks. My profile pic shows what we did.

8m long x 3.6m wide x 3.9m high. To squeeze it under the permitted development rules. Hand built by moi.

For multiple outbuildings as permitted development there are additional rules regarding spacing & the % of ground they occupy. Depending on budget, you may find it a challenge to find a property within budget that’s got a big enough garden for what you want. maybes a house with a garage so you can utilise the garage plus an outbuilding. I maximised the permitted development rules to build a barn/workshop. One half of it is vaulted double height the other half has an upper and lower section. The upper section is just storage of course. Obviously you’d need something with more windows.

You may like to consider a “Critique our design” type post before plans submission. Though some responses may not necessarily be helpful (eg “I don’t like your style of house”) you’re likely to find members who can make helpful or practical observations or tweaks that even the best architect or client will have missed. Often this is because we have included or failed to include certain features in our own self builds that we are now living in. If you chose to do this I think it’s helpful to include a brief overview of your relevant circumstances eg family, dogs, WFH, relevant interests etc. blank out any personal info on the drawings. If uncertain about this just do a forum search on “critique” to see previous posts to see if you feel such a post would be helpful to you. This forum is not like Facebook etc where aggressive random people abuse posts. You’ll find 99.99% responses are folk trying to help, and ultimately you have 100% control of whether to accept of ignore any suggestions.

Welcome. In first instance go here: https://energysavingtrust.org.uk you’re likely to get funding to support your project. very unlikely heat pumps will work well in a big old drafty house though. Be careful about how you insulate an old house sometimes problems can be caused if insulated incorrectly. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking heat pumps will save you a fortune in a house that’s hasn’t got excellent insulation. I would definitely agree get any central heating changes done first. I think you’re going have to spend a lot of money one of two ways. Either by extensive insulation / new windows / new heating system now, or via huge energy bills for next 30 years, so you’ll have a choice to make. you’ll need to establish exactly where your house is leaking heat most, via surveying and testing, to ascertain the best system or upgrades for you. if your windows are a particular issue that’s a relatively easy way to make improvements as I’m sure you know.

As per a previous post by @Radian an option is to not put an underlay down and just use a low tog carpet. Obviously not as spongy but certainly softer than a hard surface. Another compromise option is to put down LVT or whichever hard surface, then get rugs made from carpet with bound edges for areas you’re likely to be walking on. So only part of the floor is covered. A carpet without an underlay on UFH will feel softerwhen warm. It kind of tricks the mind, like floor tiles alway feel softer when warm.

Don’t forget to factor in the noise generated from whatever is in your plant room/cupboard . Our no1 mistake was having ours in a location adjacent/below to otherwise quiet rooms - study & bedroom. Didn’t appreciate the internal pumps and gubbins for our ASHP / central heating system make a tremendous noise when on. Now having to, with difficulty and limited success, retrofit sound insulation. Eventually I’m going have to pull up a bedroom floor above our plant cupboard to install enhanced sound insulation. If you must locate it centrally and near rooms please consider enhanced sound insulation at very least. I would never again have a plant room/ cupboard adjacent to a bedroom. If your house is in a quiet area and well insulated any internal noises even low buzzes or hums could be quite noticeable.

I think you’re upset that because you put a lot of effort into insulation and build but “only” got a B rating? I got a B-87 and mine is really well insulated 3G etc, HP etc. To get my house A rated would be incredibly hard and involving options that weren’t for me solar, turbines, ground source, etc which were outwith budget. I don’t think it’s possible to get an A rated house unless you put a tremendous effort into the renewables and build method that is very expensive, eg passive. It’s only fair that those who do those things (including some BH members) achieve a rating higher for their efforts. I doubt it’s even possible to achieve an A using fossil fuels for energy. also if it was too easy to achieve A that would undermine the rating system. B rated is not a substandard build. You and I have not built crap inefficient poorly insulated houses. It’s just we didn’t put in additional renewables. Your house will be one of the most efficient houses in your area, no doubt of that. if anything the EPC is confirming that you’ve done everything you can - next to installing renewable / non fossil fuel energy supply options. If you had built a crap house it wouldn’t have achieved an B 85.

@thenight you have asked the right questions and indeed received the right answers/advice from folk with some great knowledge and experience. I’m overall very happy with my ASHP, and the grants and funding I receive for it. But in the context of it being installed and integrated in a highly insulated self build, and I had no gas main options. I’d be very, very wary & tread carefully, as you are doing, in researching the feasibility for retro installation in an older property. The main reason ASHPs get bad press for poor performance is they’ve been installed in houses that simply aren’t insulated/airtight enough. They are not a holy grail for all houses. Be very suspicious regarding companies who suggest anything contrary to this and bear in mind they’re trying to flog you something they want to sell, we most certainly are not :)

@Mattg4321 having lived in an almost identical space for 8 yrs, from our experience: we initially had a secondary sofa area in the big room (in the dark corner), plus a TV. Plus dining table, island etc. They (sofa/tv) were rarely used so we removed the sofa so there was a telly on the wall which was more used for casual watching while cooking etc. we kept our lounge separate, it looks like yours is around 4x4m too. Difficulty with leaving it entirely open plan is a lack of cosiness and if you use a set of internal dividing doors, etc is you have limited walls for seating options as it looks like you’ve got a fire on the right hand side. If you’re able to shift the living room door into the corner too even better. I would recommend you consider keep the livingroom entirely separate from the extension especially if the kitchen diner is likely to be a busy room. It’s a retreat to go to unless you live in a magazine and your kitchen is permanently immaculate or quiet. Your large open plan space would allow for, right to left, an amazing spacious kitchen with a feature massive island, large dining table and perhaps a reading chair or two in the dark corner or in front of the large glazing. your square meterage is great but the square shape and locations of doors and glazing makes it tricky to get effectively three functional rooms into there and it could look and feel a little cramped. If you had a rectangular space 10x 5 it would be easy to divide into the three zones, but you don’t. I sense that’s your dilemma. A lot will depend on your actual need for a second telly and sofa area. If those are not essential consider binning them. Good luck with whatever you decide.

We claimed successfully for quite a few things not shown in drawings including for example additional kitchen units not shown in drawings, or where we upgraded things from drawings as project progressed. Just ensure that you can justify or evidence any discrepancies in particular for example hidden things like insulation (maybes take photos). Inevitably during a build purchases may need to be made of things not shown on drawings or due to design changes etc. I suspect their red flag would be claims that blatantly don’t marry up with a particular build eg a disproportionate amount of a particular material that would cause them to scrutinise a claim. Eg three baths in a two bathroom house. Or duplicates eg x amount of rockwool AND x amount of PIR. If there is anything in your claim that you think may look a bit iffy just put a covering letter in to explain it, that’s what we did and ours went through no probs. as @saveasteadingsays they won’t be scrutinising every claim in such detail.

Your wife is right, if you put a wall between the living room and the big room that top right corner will be the darkest spot. But your dilemma of course is without a wall there where do you put sofas in the livingroom. But if you had the kitchen oriented toward the south you’d be looking toward the light. using good lighting etc and keeping decor light should mitigate this a bit too. your house and extension is the same as our last house and it was difficult to get right. We didn’t get ours right so what I’ve suggested is based upon our experience and learning from our mistakes. hopefully others can provide alternate ideas.

ag tie properties are acceptable to Ecology. https://www.ecology.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Lending-Criteria-Guidelines-Feb-2023.pdf

Have a conversation with Ecology BS. As you own the land already, especially with PP, it has a value so you may find you don’t need a cash deposit. Thats what we did. as such the cash they’re releasing to you is always an amount that’s less than the value of your project at that stage. id imaging a plot in Sussex with PP has a significant value to it. That would be your deposit. search Ecology on this forum you’ll find many have had excellent experiences with them, including me. we’d already bought the plot and demolished the existing house, then applied for the SB mortgage. We used cash reserves to go a few stages before drawing down money as and when required.

Agree with @Kelvin ‘s comments. Why hasn’t vendor secured a warranty themselves. Why are they selling after completing a couple of years of completion. I’d be walking away, too many red flags. All the risk would be on you. Doubt a warranty company would provide sufficient coverage to take in the risk.