scottishjohn

from personal experience with my garage roof it was done in plastisol and after 20 years the cut edges started rusting and lifting the coating off If i were doing it again i would want to coat all cut edges with something , maybe they do suitable paint for this i am talking along tinme ago now ,so maybe they do now ? or maybe i was just unlucky

and they will bow to what ever the firebrigade say so yes talk to local fire officer first and get a feel for what they will want

do you have planning yet ? cos that when i got caught with needing a fire pond -due to distance from a fire hydrant --200m being max distance it was a conditon of planning+ BC and they directed me to the fire brigade they came and looked and then we had a discusion on size of pond this ended up with a 5000litre pond dropped from 40000 due to stream running through it and the shape of my ground and lack of flat area as for width --do you really want the fire engine to get stuck in mud in the haste to get to your property --thats why the width is what it is good luck hope you find a solution

how far are yuo from a fire hydrant? Iwas over 200m =so i have to build a fire pond and that could mean a 40000 litre pond if fire regs are same as here

not really nonsense if the people you share with keep putting wrong things in it and uase bio washing powder etcand refuse to pay or cannot afford to and if an old system it will be linked to sinks so all the fat they put down there from washing out pans will end up there as well

I would take a guess that rule11 +12 will be hard to prove that they have been complied with

and when you decide later to improve the insulation it will have been a waste of time and energy , the choice is all yours .

would avoid this totally you don,t know what will happen in future and with other peole if it goes wrong trying to get other parties to fund an upgrade will be near impossible as already said price house with cost to have own system you know its the only sensible and future proof option

is it time to improve insulation as well at this time ? no chasing to do of any kind then build stud walls inside and leave gap for rewiring etc if victorian probalbly can afford to loose a litle area in rooms yes you will need to remove skirtings ,but just think about it maybe time to do it in one go easy to do in sections while still living there a it drastic for what your asking ,but worth thinking about

sorry I and lots of others would disagree on your statements as for complicated you can just run a simple one zone system which gets rid of all the expensive controls if the house is so small and how much grant can you get for your preferred system --sod all ,working on your assumption that it is too complicated for you to do a system yourself ,which of course is not really true , if you are considering self build there areltos of other things just as complixated inthe build

excuse my correction but it will be more like 40mm by the time you have your heat sink . (t+g cement board on top of ufh piping) added-then floor finish of your choice

If you want to use something then liquid PTFE

the stone work would be just the outer shell and everything else would be as in a timber frame house ,so no big thermal bridges

I did consider in one of my fancyful moments at the beginning of my project if I had to demolish what i had in the flight of fancy I emialed a chineese stone suplier and they assured me i could have any size or thickness of granite blocks that would be accurate to +or- minus 1-2mm with smooth cut faces and at £1800 per ton delivered FOB to uk then add another £80 per ton to be delivered by road and the fancyfull thoughts continued for a little a pallet of blocks ia about 1.2tons and was around £100 a pallet then and granite is approx 50% heavier than concrete blocks apallet of blocks would build 8sqm -- it became obvious that it would not be viable so 8sqm of granite would be 20times the price of concrete blocks at a rough calculation even using std blocks with large section granite cladding or some other stone still made it unaffordable to normal mortals maybe stone slips to outside of block work would ve affordable to some and give same effect I did not win the lottery --so that idea got shelved would have been great to build something that looked like a bank building using thin set cement as for the condesation risk I did not see that as any worse than any other sort of solid wall as granite takes along time to pass heat through it in either direction so does insulate quite well for a solid product and is totally imperious to water , and when all said and done it is only a water screen and rest of build would be as any other modern build

and that will suck more heat frrom your slab as wet ground wil conduct heat transfer better maybe 50% better or worse if you look at cooling effect - -so as nod says block and beam all the way

when ifiited my UFH in present house I relaid the expense acminster and underlay as it was too good to dump I did replace with a tiled floor a few years later and it just worked quicker for a temp change It worked but not as quick as hard floors so do not discount UFH in bedrooms all it will mean is that the temp drop on ufh will be less,so it won,t cost anymore in power , just takes longer to get there as it will not allow as much heat out as quick as a hard floor but it will work my upstairs UFh is insulated foil coated boards with pipe cut outs . covered with 20mm T+G cement board to spread the heat total thickness is about 40mm my crappy architect wanted use sand mix infill on joists ,which meant fitting bottom plwood beteen eaxh joist -- seemed too much weight and a messy job

any digger or telehandler that can lift 500kgs will lift 600kg quite sure if you going for a "genie" same will be true you certainly not lifting either by hand so no problem if you really want such humungus opening then have slim post in the middle ,that will change everything .could be round or square and could be bolted on the sides to the beams -making each one half the length and a lot lighter as now the span is only half to a support and willl you really notice a post that much? - i doubt it if lined up with joint in the framing on the other side have you considered how much heat that size hole is going to add to that room when sun iis out and how much extra heat loss there will be with that size of glass at that size you are going to be thinking about a Brise soleil shading system tyo stop overheating in height of summer

and if going ICF battoning the whole outside before pour could make it much stronger to take the concrete and make sure its all square and vertical but never seen that proposed in any icf job I suppose you could sheet it all with cheap osb as another way of keeping it all straight and blocking any possible blow outs? that might be cheaper than hiring lots of adjustable braces?

so a total wooden construction

question ? what are walls going to be ,ade of then

I,m glad you mentioned this i fitted a new one to my workshop when i split it into units I already had two of them when i built the worsgop and in 30 years they never gave a problenm beiing open and closed many times each day so when I neede another one i went for same again " bolton brady euro fold" it came with the frame work "C" section 6" pillars for both ends with plates on top to bolt too the RSJ main beam ,a 6x6 rsj and no fixings to anything ellse ,just supported on the end "c" beams which are concreted into floor the opening was 5m and the door unit which hung on it was 650 kgs -had to bororw a fork lift truck to fit all this yes there was a track for the doorrollers to go into and ,yes spacers ,but I think that was more to do with allowing for builders getting things wrong than anything else and of course when its open the weight is all at one end and there is no weight supported at bottom just a guide rail for the doors set in the floor If a box beam was stronger or cheaper they would have used that ,,and bear in mind this is a very movable load so there would be twisitng load as well as you open and close it so i think that shows for a given size RSJ is sronger

I go back to your first post 25mm deflection ? that must induce alot of strain in the beam and i am not sre how you work with a 25mm bend in the centre of the beam I am not convinced of his argument on torsion (twisting load ) especially if the roof joists which are going to be attached to the beam or done by infilling the beam with wood ,and attach joists to that it could not twist really as it would have no here to go being tight to roof joists If i was really worried about twist then weld flat section to inside between top and bottom of beam ,or bolt sections of "c" section int hat space If all that is loading the beam is the roof then I do not see an RSJ of that size having muuch defelction same could be said of bolting or welding a flat plate of 10mm to inside of box beam maybe you are happy with just packing the bifolds suitably to allow for the 56mm deflection of your box beam ? and yes if does not cause a problem use the full length of the beam ,but if it does bned that much the ends of only held by the roof will probably make a gap under neath them if it bending that much ? must be somewhere on web you can find a calculation sheet for bend of different types of beam plus you can fill the outside web with insulation ,not sure how he intends to insulate a box section but I,m no SE just a guy who has been building all sorts of structures both buildings and vehicles for a long time

would always be my first suggestion to isolate the problem to start with remember for the air to gap work best it needs to be a clear gap vented to the eves or cold roof space I would still seriously consider a parge coat with water proof addative on the internal stone work and make moisture go back out through your stone work and not in If you are wnaitng to keep the stone look outside to fit stick down LVT the moisture level in the concrete floor needs to be less than 3.75% maybe be worth buying a suitable humidity meter to check the walls and floor now took 2 weeks of my UFH on at 20c the dry out the concrete sub base and screed + self lveling coat on top of the UFH and the sub base had been laid for nearly a year so that sounds like a non starter can you suffer loosing some head room and fit a dpc across the concrete then a thin screed? or at least a liquid tanking coat going up the walls about a metre ? rising damp does not go any higher than that I am told

having been involved incompressors for garages all my working life size of hose from compressor is a usual cause of poor performance as small pipes will not pass enough air especially if they are long 3/8" or 10mm should be miniumum not 5/16" as some supply ,fine for air line but not for air tools the 9" air grinder and 1" air wrench used 1" hoses coupled to the galvanaised ring main at 1/25" size sander or air grinder are very thirsty on air supply I would question the need these days for a big compressor + air wrenchs as battery powered wrenchs are so good and can be used anywhere you won,t find many garages using air tools now secondly size of receiver (stroage tank ) you can do quite alot if receiver is large enough even with a smallish compressor anything under 10cfm is a toy and the general rule is 1hp per 4cfm and if thinking of spraying, anything under 20cfm will never run a spray gun and air fed mask continously ,and you must use a water seperator when painting or using an air fed mask cold air from shed then compressed makes lots of water if compressor is working hard and yes the cheap chineese diy units do not last,running to fast to get output to last i had an IR 25cfm with 200litre tank which i got secondhand 40years ago and was still going fine when i gave up but fitted a screw compressor to run the paint shop 40cfm and run sanders ,grinders,spray guns and air fed masks etc and air never got hot,so cut down amount of moisture it made If you still got oldone plumb its tank into the new one to increase capacity

I would not be putting that in a post anywhere ,If i were going to do such a thing , getting administrators on here to delete it would be a good idea