sean1933

I'm speaking to sparky tomorrow re locations as it somewhat slipped my mind. I did just plan AICO's interlinked with a central test/reset button (high ceilings). But im now worrying about the Large Dwellinghouse criteria (380sqm house, ground is 230sqm) that makes me think I need a special ie expensive grade A system. Anyone else get caught out by this?!? "Grade A Category LD3 fire detection and alarm system"

I couldn't agree more - but when the wife has ruled out any other 'fob' option its the only way for smart control. First world problems aye.

Anyone looking for a standalone Ekey finger print reader - I've just bought one on Amazon for £271! Normally retail at nearly £800. After purchase yesterday price jumped back up to £795 but looked again this morning and now showing £294 with 2 left in stock. Not sure what's going on its the black glass version too. 😄 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BRJPQ6HY?psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

Thanks for your responses both. To confirm - its bottom fix channel only, and yes I meant coach screws sorry. Coach bolts would be simple but look awful from below as obviously visible from the underside. Russell sadly you appear to confirm my secondary worry in that without testing the pull out strength is unknown, not to mention my (probably overthinking mind) worry about splitting / weakening the beam with so many big holes in close succession. The need for a structural engineer would probably negate the cost of the already tested method, especially as I'd need to find a new one as mine has retired and emigrated. This is the alternative that I was trying to avoid purely due to cost - expensive but tested and avoids the need for deep holes. https://pure-vista.com/product/timber-fixing-plate/ I've managed to get a bit of discount due to quantity but still eye watering for what it is.

Evening all. Short story is our balcony frames on the gables is made of 250 x 225 oak. The intention being to fit frameless glass balustrades (21.5mm lam/tough) in the associated channel. I have the glass and Posiglaze channels on site but when revisiting my building regulations i note the following condition 'Provide full balcony guarding details i.e. glazing and support posts and fixing 'details. 0.74 KN/m at 1100mm height not 1m.' I'm yet to speak with building control as I don't want to set hares running just yet, but all the fixing details/deflection test data I can find are into solid concrete or steel. Speaking to the manufacturer they agree 200mm M12 coach bolts at 200c (as per concrete detail) will be fine, but obviously don't have certificates to back this up. They do however now have certificates for their timber fixing plates which can be used on much smaller 100x150 timbers... but at £12.50+vat each at 200mm centres I'll need something like 116 so its going to cost a small fortune. I'm interested in others experience of such fixing scenarios - do I get into it with building control and hope they agree the coach bolt concrete fixing spec is fine, or just suck-up the extra £1500 and move on with my life?

Hi Mark, sorry for the slow reply I didn't see the notification. In short - this is still on the jobs list (for various reasons I had to take some time away from the build) but I wont be going for the EzyJamb product as the price is ridiculous. I planned to trial a custom setup with some plaster in QIC trims - I'm double boarding everywhere so with some ply behind to tie in the door frame to studwork I'd like to think it can be made rigid enough to not crack out - I think this is the principle NOD talked about above but I've struggled to picture his exact proposed setup.

Interesting insight thanks. I have loads of wired velux and the sparky insisted on each one having a fused spur... thankfully happy for them to be in service locations rather than on show but still a bit of a pain. Upstairs UFH is wet so no issue there but will certainly expect a fused spur to be required for the electric towel warmers. Really helpful input. I assume you're running each location 3+e back to the loxone cabinet rather than a ring just for permanent live...? I've been hesitating on what I should install here as it seems to be a bit of a minefield of blind motor options... are there any standalone motors you'd recommend? I had seen others fitting 5 core flex but most dumb blind setups only required 4 core so was a tad confused why the extra core was required. what core thickness are you using for 3+e? Cheers Dan - blind motors do appear to be very low draw from what I've read so hopefully 0.75mm will do the job... then again there also seems to be 24v options which I expect would need thicker cable... decisions decisions but I dont want to waste money unnecessarily.

More googling led me to the following which makes me think I dont need local isolation... albeit its another forum and an 8yr old post so obviously interested in a more up to date opinion! https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/electric-blinds-mechanical-maintenance-isolators-bsen-60204.101954/ Also - what size core flex did you go with @Dan F ? Would 0.75mm2 suffice or should I go with 1mm2? It gets expensive quickly!

I'm in exactly this situation now and looking to consider how I control lots of blinds throughout the house... but it's throwing up a few sill questions I can't answer. I have pretty much settled on just running 5 core cable back to the loxone cabinet for 240v control and sorting motor choice further down the road.... although cheap aliexpress Zemismart motors are looking tempting. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLS5OTe However I'm getting confused re what the requirements are for local isolation for blinds... if required surely this is a major downside to 240v motors as they are a pain to locate especially with 4 blinds in close proximity. The next question is how do I isolated a 5 core cable as the usual fused spur isn't going to do the job!? @Dan F @joth what did you do?

Morning @nod. I don't suppose you ever found any photos of this setup? I'm struggling to visualise the setup and am currently at this stage of my build. We have flush pocket doors and stupidly suggested we do the same on normal doors to match, rather than shadowgaps. I've found a ready-made profile (EzyJamb SRC) but at £500 a pop ( I need 10!l it's rather expensive! Any help much appreciated.

@SimonD Really great to see someone using this product - are you a tradesman with experience of such products/plasting or is this a first attempt? If the latter, recon its DIY friendly on a floor (and to a high standard) or does this fall within the realms of plastering, ie leave it to the pro's unless its behind some furniture! We've committed to microcement on our floors for the entire downstairs of our house (240m2). Originally planned on giving topcret a go myself in the garage but now seems they only sell with installation and the prices are eye watering. Do you have any experience of the Cemher floor product?

Did you ever proceed with this source Joth and if so what was your experience? I'm planning a similar setup to yours (inc Loxone control eventually). I have the same ASHP (although 14kw) and after researching air flow issues have written off the MVHR cooling solution. Will use UFH cooling downstairs but plan to at least plumb for FCU's upstairs. I'm in 2 minds whether to buy units now or see how the summer goes as the budget is shot and we may not need cooling (very likely though!) . We wont finish until end of the year I imagine, so time to fit in autumn before final decorating. Out of interest what size feed pipes did you use to the FCU's from plant room? We have 4 bedrooms in total upstairs, 2 on either side of the house that could theoretically share 2x ducted units if sized appropriately, or alternatively an FCU per bedroom. I'm not sure what sort of water flow these FCU's need. If I run vapour sealed(insulated) 22mm Hep2O to each side of the house will that suffice, or do I need larger if each feed may run 2 FCU's? Thanks in advance!

Waterless trap straight into the soil stack should do the job.

Thanks Nick. I think what differentiates Joth's suggestion is that the detection and shutting of the valve is triggered by the smart home leak sensors located throughout the property. Rather than an integrated alarm/detection unit that you are tied to their protocols/cloud controls etc. https://www.solenoid-valve.world/connexion/1-electrically-actuated-ball-valve-9-24vacdc-or-110-240vac-abvm08s This unit can have a manual control added to bypass in case of a fault. Have you seen any units like this ever installed? I did wonder if a standard 2 zone actuator could do the same job but decided not to go down that rabbit hole as not its designed purpose (or pressure I imagine).

Thanks Gents, insightful as always. I've fed this back into the design guys and he's going to move some things around. Particularly the duct cooler also coming off the LLH/buffer. He didnt appreciate previously that I will want it running at the same time as UFH - assumed it was for cooling only and that I wouldn't cool through some of my UFH (he's not a fan). Will also be ditching some of the pumps as unnecessary so close to the ground floor manifolds.