Patrick

That is the point I was making but apparently this is not allowed. I will retest them on this topic . I think I might think about a brick cladding in that position. The funny thing is, there is no neighbour. His house is 50m away. Just the end of his garden. But I built right next to the garden wall so counts as "within 1meter" . No getting around that.

It s not internally. It's external. It's also not about visible. I would love to use a traditional product. There is none (to my knowledge) . Outside cladding is wood but even with other forms of cladding the timber frame itself still would need to be made fireproof to the outside .

Former. The later isn't a problem. As you rightly said. Plaster board will solve this.

Got an issue which i can not figure out what to do . 1 side of our building is to a neighbouring property (within 1m) . So building control requested Fire proofing of the wall. Building is timber frame so they want us to use something like Promat SUPALUX . Very expensive boards for outside sheeting . It supposed to go over the outside boarding/sheeting of the walls , behind the cladding (which also needs fireproofing) But we specially sheeted the outside of the walls with Panelvent DWD to have the walls vapour open to the outside. This is complete opposite now , putting a cement board on top of it. Pointless to do a Panelvent board to the outside in the first place. I looked around, got in touch with a few companies and there used to be a vapour open fire resistant board called Econic General Purpose Sheathing Board (breathable, fire resistant) .... BUT its not getting produced anymore. At the moement the website just states they need to update the boards to latest regulation standard. Anyways. I surely cant be the 1st to have this problem. Anybody came across the iussue ? how do i fireproof the walls ? without putting any non-breathable sheets to the outside.

Second that. Pir also terrible sound insulation. That's often forgotten.

I done it all. Every step you mentioned ,years ago. Marker on the file is not possible (I asked) ... But you gave me a few good inspirations to discover further

I agree. very good idea. Specially with the fence that belongs to me even if on 3rd party land (unknown land) ...Many thanks

It doesn't have an owner. It's unclaimed land

That would be possible if neighbour wasn't a horrendous c###. I already tried to speak to him a few times about little things.(e.g. wanting to change the outside cladding on my house... He blocked and decided to alarm the council .... Without any legal grounds ) So unfortunately no, communication and finding an amicable solution is off the table . I usually keep separate and so does he ... No issue. Specially because we have that strip of land as a peace zone. Hence why I don't want him closer ... I m not fussed owning it myself .

Bit of an issue with unoccupied land between mine and the neighbour. Strip of land is around 10m wide and 25m long . It is not registered on their land registry nor on mine . I originally was thinking to just leaver it as a "buffer zone" but he started to clear it and put a bench onto this land now. Trying to mark it for occupation and probably claim it a few years down the line. I'm not happy with it but not sure what my options are. Legally i can't chuck him off the land of fence it up. Since it's not mine. And I also think I can't serve him any notice ...Is there any way or form that I can stop him or at least file my objections .

@Wil... This is great . Yes

True . But I like to keep the house system as "regular" as possible as you never know what's gonna happen and I might decide to take the hot water source elsewhere ... Then It's better to have a functional system in place.

No . There would be no need for separate source of hot water. Problem is more that the water will be too hot . House is passiv so not that much needed and input is permanent 70degrees hot water ...

Exactly like this. That's what I imagined. Just that the 2port valve needs to open/close automatically... What kind of valve would do this (very silly question. But I'm not a plumber)

Brilliant ?

Yes. That s perfect. Stupid question: is there an automated valve the rediverts the flow of water at certain temperature.. Or how would that technically look like ... I 100%agree to the idea

Yes. That principle is somewhat clear to me. But bear in mind i'm not a plumber: How do you switch it "off" when the DHW tank becomes too hot . You have to switch the circle ...

Consumption Is 7kw with 40% going into heat. So heating is approx 2.8kw . 24/7 . Currently water cooled but run to waste so pretty wasteful . Have a tank that minimises the run to waste but still .. Temp of the water is 74degrees max, so plenty of reserve . Thanks . Theses are good questions.

I have a bit of a task here . How would you go about plugging a permanent hot water reservoir into the house (ufh and DHW) If got a tank of (very) hot water . It s a 2000l reservoir that is used for server water cooling (to minimize run-to-waste water cooling) . I would like to use the hot water from there to heat A. The hot water cylinder B. Under floor heating . How could this setup look like As far as I understand , usually the hot water at the house works in the way that you heat up water when water is needed and not keep it permanently on max temperature (can't do this with ufh anyways) So would probably need 2 separate cycles Cycle 1 is for cooling the servers and is permanently on hot temperature Cycle 2 is the water cycle in the house for heating UFH and hot water tank. If cycle 2 "needs" hot water , switch switches water from cycle 1 into cycle 2 .... Excuse my stupid explanation . I m missing terminology and knowledge here. So please, let me know how I could start building this as an experiment to test out.

Maybe- but there is no harm done having "a gale blow through the structure of the building" as long as it s on the outside of the insualtion and VCL . But there is a lot of harm when not ventilating (or too little) , therefore i stand by that statement.

Yes you can- Insulated block and beam - instead of blocks , there is insulation. A LOT.

This is a block and beam ?

I did- but now we gonna have a regular wooden floor on top of it- by the look of it today , we might not even need a self levelling compound - it is still fairly straight ..

http://tintabernacle.blogspot.com/2021/09/the-slab-is-poured-pumping-floating.html