junglejim

Thanks for the tips. Did you find it stayed tight enough or is likely to sag and open up along the cladding face?

Ps the angled trims look a lot more expensive.

Thanks. Yes the first link looks good… easier to install but struggling to see how to get the exact width when it’s only multiples of 10mm 🤷‍♂️… I must be misunderstanding something.

Thanks @JamesP any photos of how you fixed the mesh?

No looks good to me but a few comments on Amazon suggested it might be thin and frayed when cut.

Does anyone have experience with this from the mesh company: https://themeshcompany.com/shop/wire-mesh/insect-proof-mesh/flyscreen-insect-vent-soffit-mesh-for-netting-and-cladding/?attribute_pa_insect-mesh=stainless-steel-304-grade-16-lpi-0-23mm-wire&attribute_pa_soffit-roll-size=30-metres-length-x-100mm-width-roll

@SuperJohnG just wondering you can advise on the cedral… I’m struggling to work out how the fixed dimension will close the gap accurately but probably missing something. For example they seem to come in multiples of 10 but if battens are 38mm or when double battening 38+25mm I’m not sure how this would work. Probably missing something obvious!? Thanks

A combination of both might be good but still unsure about fixing the rigid angles given the dimensions… I saw somewhere else someone recommending the cedral mesh so any advice on fitting to ensure good closure would be useful. Thanks

Thank you that’s really helpful… hadn’t even thought about the cills yet … can see the advantage of the flexible mesh.

Thanks for the advice @Russdl yes that looks like the most versatile and cost effective but angled strips also look easier to install but I’m a bit confused shift the dimensions… they come in multiple of 10 but battens are 38mm or 25mm so seems like it’ll either overhang or leave a gap… I must be missing something. 🤷‍♂️

Just resurrecting this thread because I’m about to start cladding and have overlooked the mesh. I’m going for a mixture of horizontal and vertical timber cladding. Not sure where to go for the stainless mesh roll or cedral closure… also unsure about fitting despite watching the above video. Any advice and help greatly appreciated as will need to order tomorrow. Thank you

I’m looking at this dry verge by Kytun for tiles. I can see this working for thin slates but for l tiles (flat profile) there will essentially be a step where each tile overlaps the one beneath which means there would be a large gap into the dry verge where water could easily get in… am in missing something?

Thank you for the advice. Yes I have counter batten and then batten… sorry not very good at drawing 😂 that was my thought on venting and several people have said the same which is reassuring. My concern was whether Warner air would accumulate at the top and condense but my assumption is like you say the differential pressure one side to the other will ensure air flow.

thanks @scottishjohn sorry I’m not being very clear basically a normal roof but sections made in the factory and then assembled on site. It’s a cold roof. yes vaulted ceilings. The roof layup from inside to out is: plasterboard - batten - ybs insulation - osb - insulation between rafters - air gap - osb - breather membrane - counter batten - batten - tiles Guidance from lots of sources is that airflow is needed between insulation and top osb. I’m just not sure whether I also need to cut the top membrane or because there isn’t a ridge which means air can flow across, whether I can get away without cutting. thanks for all your thoughts.

Factory made in sections built around rafters; osb - air gap - insulation - osb

Was this on a solid roof ie; osb cassette?

Really interested in solutions to this as about to start cladding. I was also thinking of lead but unsure how to do this properly? Ie; junction with membrane. Also considering aluminium but I can’t find anything wide enough ie; 38mm batten + 19mm cladding =57mm out. Any advice really appreciated.

Thanks. Yeah not so easy as would need to remove the ridge tiles and ridge tree. (Doable but a bit of a faff). I’m not too worried about BC as don’t think they’ll have an issue but want to make sure that I don’t create future problems.

Thanks…. Hoping I can do that.

Thanks yes I have a vented dry ridge and airflow between tiles and breathable membrane. The question is about airflow beneath the osb as it’s a cassette roof. I have 50mm air gap that runs from eaves on one side between rafters and to eaves on the other. Not sure if I should also be cutting the membrane at the top as well but would rather not if it’s not necessary.

I’m considering an arched front door but wondering what the cladding detail should look like around this? The cladding is vertical timber (shadow gap). I’m struggling to find pictures online so wondering whether this is possible or not. Thanks

bed = need 🙄

It’s time to make the cut across the ridge of the breather membrane… cassette roof construction. However it just doesn’t quite feel right after working so hard to protect the building and keep water out. I realise that I need airflow from the eaves and above the insulation to the top of the roof but with this design there isn’t av ridge beam so air can actually flow from eaves, over insulation upwards and back down to eaves on the other side… I’m wondering if this is sufficient to avoid the bed to cut the membrane and help me sleep easy knowing that the roof is watertight…. I’m sure this is a can of worms but any advice welcome. Thank you 👍

Thanks @Eric yes that’s what I’m doing but wasn’t sure whether it also needed boxing in or something to prevent slippage downwards. They’re tight so can’t imagine them moving but overtime and with air movement … probably overthinking this and belt and braces so wondering everyone’s thoughts. Thank you for the help.

I’m wondering if it’s worth putting a baffle in?