junglejim

Figured a drawing would be useful as still a bit unsure of the best way to finish this. Thanks for all the tips.

Slightly concerned this could be a way for moisture to ingress (around edges of the RSJ) any tips on sealing? Considering expanding foam + mortar to fill gaps.

Thanks, that’s useful. The side facing outwards is the ‘I’ shape so not a face. I’m thinking of insulating, adding noggins and then osb with dpc over but wondering if I’m better off covering in render board and extending down to overlap the slab?

The upstand around our slab is cut for RSJ to fit into at slab level. I’m wondering how best to finish the exterior around this as will be closer to ground level and below the cladding. Presumably it could somehow be sand cement rendered? Thanks

Update: Thanks for everyone’s thoughts and advice. Below is the reply from the engineer today. Feel much better having this in writing but still a little weary given the concerns raised on here. “I can confirm the 140mm long Rawlplug screw with plastic plug is the preferred fixing for timber sole plates to concrete up-stands. This type of fixing alleviates any excessive lateral forces within the up-stand unlike an expanding bolt fixing.”

I used a hammer tacker in the end… really easy and quick to use… found it invaluable.

Thanks. Haven’t spoken to SE yet but will do. The drawings specify shot fired. I think there were concerns though about that being risky as could damage the concrete with that method…. My gut feeling is in line with people’s thoughts on here that the plastic plugs are not a good enough alternative but definitely need it checked. Going to be quite a bit of work to remedy I suspect but need the house well anchored!

Thanks for the comments. No this is a concrete raft slab with timber frame on top. The external face of the upstands/slab is going to have a render finish. We are cladding above that. just out of interest what kind of fixings would you expect on this? Anchor bolts?

Yes I share that concern. I’ve been around the perimeter and checked the concrete. As far as I can tell it’s blown in 3 locations so the rest seem good. Not sure I can remedy the anchoring at all as the building is up and fixed to the sole plate. I’m not sure why they’ve used plastic plugs. Engineer drawings specify shot firing (I’m not sure what that is) I’m speculating but wondering if shot firing would have been more likely to damage the concrete? I don’t know if there are frame anchors as well… but of a can of worms here and not sure how to broach with the company 😬.

Thanks yes tempted to just crack on but obviously a critical part of the building so want to make sure it’s done right and water/weather tight. I’ve come across a couple of products. Is this the kind of thing you’re meaning? Fibromix 40: https://www.waterproofingaccessories.co.uk/product/fibre-reinforced/ Resincoat: https://www.resincoat.co.uk/en/home/454-resincoat-all-in-one-concrete-repair-mortar.html cheers

Hoping that this is repairable with some kind of mortar but worried it might be a weak spot so want to make sure it’s done right.

Thanks… that’s good to know… do you think I’d get away with one strip or need to do lots of short sections like the plastic one?… advantage of short ones is that they could be slid beneath the tile which will help hold in place but would require much more lead. The presumably would also need a side fixing to the barge board or batten… struggling to find information online about doing this.

Just when one problem is solved another surfaces… self building is definitely stressful! I’ve discovered today that the concrete upstand around the perimeter of our foundation (cast as part of foundation raft slab) has been damaged (presumably when the TF company fitted the soleplate) which has caused water ingress… luckily I haven’t insulated and screed yet. I didn’t notice earlier because we weren’t wind and watertight so assumed it was from window opening and area is also concealed under dpc overlap. I’ve messaged the TF company for help but wonderful what everyone’s take on this is in terms of responsibility and solutions? I’ve attached a few photos… the upstand is damaged inside and out where 2 fixings are so there’s 2 photos for each location one from inside ABs the other from outside. All advice very appreciated. Thank you

Thermowood cladding… good quality but slightly unsure about fixing strength as tends to be quite light and soft ish hence considering reinforcement.

Thanks… just a standard light but wasn’t sure whether it’s better to support behind as well.

Thanks. It’s timber cladding. Trying to find out whether a lead ‘dry verge’ is possible and how best to do this and also secure to the roof. Cheers

I’m going to be installing some outdoor lights onto my cladding (thermo ayous). I’m trying to preempt and ensure there are holes/grommets etc in the correct positions but presumably the area should also be battened or a timber plate (plywood) fitted behind the cladding to give the light something strong to attach to?

I’ve got a clay tiled roof with plastic click together dry verge similar to this: https://mybuildingsupplies.ie/shop/building-supplies/roofing-building-supplies/roof-ventilation/dry-verge-system/ I’m wondering if it’s possible to redo this with lead for a more rustic finish that suits the house better. Struggling to find much info online so probably barring up the wrong tree here?

Update: I’ve been playing around today: prototype… think I might go with lead as much easier to manipulate and seal corners. I think something like the attached photo will work…(this is on a door but windows will be the same) Trim equal all around gives a neater finish then angled wedge on top with lead drip above that. I’ll leave a 5mm gap between lead and the cladding to allow airflow and and insect mesh. Ideally lead will run under membrane but may tape instead… something else to decide. I’d welcome any thoughts and tips anyone else has.

Reading a lot about expansion gaps for cladding. We’re installing thermo ayous which has very small expansion figures so wondering if there’s any need for any gap at all? I’ve been allowing a few mil. each end 2mm ish between boards but quite fiddly lifting each board and where boards butt together along a long length it seems like a weak spot for water ingress. given that the boards are also fixed with 2 screws in each batten I’m struggling to see how the boards will expand… is anyone able to offer any technical insights into this? Thank you

Thanks everyone. I’m also looking at the schiedel Ignis and realise it says it needs 575mm hole cutting. Given that stud work is 600 centres that leaves about 540 in between I think which is too small for the Ignis … unless it can be cut slightly to fit?

Thanks for all the advice. I knew this would be a ‘marmite’ topic. I realise that a stove is not needed from a practical perspective… it’s more aesthetics and a non negotiable from my better half! Direct air through the slab isn’t something I’d considered… wish I had! I’m at the stage of trying to get wind and watertight so would ideally like to get the cladding complete asap so really weighing up the practicalities of retro fitting the flue and direct air after cladding. For the flue I’m thinking schiedel Ignis protect through the wall. I’ll install both before internal finishes but ideally need the cladding up before I can finalise locations.

I’m building a timber frame house and planning on putting a wood burner at a later date. I realise that I’ll need direct air and all of the pros/cons around that but wondering about timing the fitting of the flue and direct air ventilation. In the ideal world I’d do that now before I start cladding but reality is it’s going to be some time before we have decided on stove (and budget for it)… however I also don’t want to put holes in the fabric of the house which may not be positioned ideally for the stove… So I’m wondering how easy/difficult it is to retro fit flue and direct air ventilation after cladding is installed? appreciate any tips and insights anyone might have.