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Part O requires buildings to be designed to avoid overheating, so you need to take account of solar gain/shading. Have you got those calcs from your architect/others?

What temps would that pipe be adequate for? What would be required for for 10/11oC? Anything pre-insulated on the market?

A few thoughts: 1. As a clean sheet design try and design out the need for this sort of complexity as much as possible. If that means oversizing the fancoils to produce the needed output at higher flow temps so be it. You'll have a more efficient system running with a single temp WC with no mixing. Having said that, having a design that could support dual flow temps if there is an error of design is a nice insurance policy. 2. Right sizing the overall system is important. Too big and it will perform poorly. Equally, putting effort into making sure the insulation and shading are done right can avoid the need for a big, complex and expensive system. 3. If you run the fancoils with low flow temps you are more likely to notice the cold air draft effect of A/C so it's another reason to avoid if possible. 4. As @JohnMo said the input temp to the floor can be a little below dew point without much concern as the concrete will average out the temperature (especially if you make sure a flow pipe is always next to a return pipe throughout the loop). So you can probaby run a little lower than dew point without 2 zones as long as you insulate the pipes. 5. @joth wanted the ability to cool the fancoil zone while heating the ufh. This is not what we are talking about here. If you want that it's more involved. Though I would try to design out the need for that situation as much as possible. It would be too easy to fall into a situation where two zones are fighting each other and burning money.

@Pocster seems to be starting topics on new problems faster than fixing the existing ones. If this carries on in a few years this forum will be a all @Pocster

It would (that's a new option to me). Certainly cheap and easy. Would still have to get extra equipment if you wanted to have Terrestrial TV + Radio down the same cables. Need the hybrid option for Sky Q.

I'm a long way away from doing it but I've pencilled in using pre-insulated MLCP pipe (and therefore MLCP fittings). Looks like it includes a vapour barrier around the insulation though that's something I haven't looked into. Not much insulation but I don't think you need that much so long as the pipe runs are inside the building fabric and you aren't running crazy temps. Pre-insulated looks a lot less faff than other options and the price of this stuff seems reasonable, not like the ecoflex stuff which is designed for outdoor use. Another potential benefit of the insulated stuff is it isolates the pipe from the pipe clips (use ones that go around the insulation) so should avoid any noises from thermal expansion etc. Tons of examples out there this is only one: https://cosy-floor.co.uk/product/pre-insulated-mlcp-pipe-6-5mm/ I've seen companies selling other colours than red + blue too.

It absolutely is and is how satellite is done in flats. It does require extra equipment though. Whatever you are doing make sure you use good cable. Cheap TV ariel cable won't do for satellite. Having said that, why do you want this? Sky is on it's way to moving it's subscribers to internet streaming and I'd expect many foreign providers are doing the same. Even the now old Sky Q system doesn't require satellite cables to each room. Only the main room, that box streams the channels to the rest of the house over wifi. If you are focused on free tv and want to avoid streaming services you can get satellite to IP boxes that convert the satellite signal to work over your home network with apps available to run on smart TVs to get the signal (I've not really looked into this for years and I don't know the state of this and it might be a bit too niche to give a good experience now that streamers are taking over).

If someone doesn't recognise them can you identify them from the planning permission? If they are still building more can you pop over to site and ask?

Look what you've done now!

Checked all these? https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/gate-hardware/gate-closers This one looks like it replaces your hinges https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/05GC40__Locinox_Closer_40_-_Includes_Top_and_Bottom_Brackets

Thats a different take on it but I can see that working, though how long that one lasts IDK, seems a little light weight.

The spring might need to be constrained to stop it flopping around and the product I linked doesn't do that. But I'm sure I've seen a spring hinge installed like this before so I'd bet there is a product for this.

Have to say the way they are showing these springs installed isn't the way I was imagining it. Was thinking you'd install the hinge directly inline with the pivot point so the closing force comes from the rotation of the spring. Crudely: Not sure if thats the right product to do this but it does look like you have space for something that does the above.

How about? https://www.amazon.co.uk/IRONZONE®-Spring-Closer-Adjustable-Tension/dp/B08Z89YK93?sr=8-6 Looks like it will fit in the gap for the hinges? Not recommending the product - was just the first google hit for what I was thinking of.

Putting this a different way. Manufacturers who produce a range of heatpumps will likely only produce a small number of sizes and artificially down rate the others. Avoid any that are down rated even if it means buying bigger than you need. So get the smallest size heatpump for your needs that also is not limited by software. Given whatever you get will probably be oversized, look for ones with the highest range of modulation.

Answering your actual question: That is approximately what it would be quite often. Assume a less optimal case and it working harder than planned and you should still be below 1KW, basically inconsequential in terms of large appliances. Your heat gain/cooling load will be different so worth working that out too.

100A should be plenty. 100A = 24KWish You are obviously looking at single phase so the biggest EV charger for single phase is about 11KW. 3-phase you can get 22KW ones but your EV has to support it. Assuming you have electric cooking and are not having instant electric water heating/showers it seems like you should be able to have pretty much everything on at the same time without much difficulty. That is not how things are usually planned, it's assumed that not everything demands power at once and if you do get tight you can set the EV charger to charge at times when you are not in the workshop. If you want more than one EV charger either get smaller ones (which are likely all you need anyway unless you do a lot of miles every day) or you can get ones that can share a limited feed, ie you can program them so that they don't draw more than X between them.

Butting in where not asked but I thought the idea was its the same material. Less likely to get a path for water to get to the rebar and cause rust problems. Whether that really matters on a slab wrapped in plastic like @Duncs I've no idea.

It really doesn't seem like this is enough to spend an awful lot of money on. Deploying a 15KW single phase inverter/battery combo will be more expensive than generator but will be silent and if you add solar might start paying for itself, making it 3 phase adds cost*. 30kwh of battery doesn't cost much these days (Fogstar, Pylonttech, etc) and would likely keep you going for hours if you allocated the additional 20A you are getting from UKPN from your upgrade to supplement the battery. Victron can definitely work in a way that it limits draw on a grid/generator to a set number of amps and provides the rest from the battery. Still a generator would likely be cheaper. * Sounds like you'd need a new electric compressor anyway. Chinese VFDs are cheap these days to convert existing machines if you have the knowledge or know someone that does, though not all machines are easily convertable.

Does cash mean no documentation? What about tagging and liability? Scaffolding can get people badly hurt, want to make sure you have a safety paper trail for that.

Edit: replying to Roger Peak load and continuous are usually quite different (and by this I mean the continuous load when you are actually in the workshop). Inverter/battery system could easily act as a buffer and smooth out peaks. If the 55A is motor start load, then soft start or vfd reduces that a lot also. How big is this compressor? What are you doing with it? 10HP compressor/7500W should do 40-50CFM continuous. That's a lot of air to use for one person. An awful lot of workshop tools are now available in battery versions that are easily equivalent to the air versions and use a lot less power. (Air power is 50% efficient at best, battery ~90%). The 18V tools can deliver many KW power to the tool during use. Obviously there is a cost to buying them but the cost of a generator or inverter system is also high.

As @JamesPa pointed out (and I forgot), if the heating system is designed as a low temperature system (as a system should be in a good quality well insulated house) then its not like the water will be very warm in the first place. So if you want warm towels, skip hooking it up to the central system and just use electric with timers for when you have showers.

I'll leave the main system design for others to comment on (lots of experience here). But: Why not put in towel radiators with water loops + electric heater. In winter, use the main system, in summer use electric if needed (doubt you'd need it much so putting in something that doesn't cost much to install but costs a little more to run if needed makes sense)?

That is my point. The system is running off single phase and transferring the energy between phases (via the DC battery bus). Lose a bit of efficiency but as long as total draw is below the input capacity of the inverter connected to the mains minus the efficiency loss it should run forever. The battery also proivides a reserve for temporary load spikes above the capacity*. Would want soft start on equipment though I'd guess. Anyway I'm not 100% sure Victron can do it but I thought I saw it mentioned in their docs. I know people do similar using big VFDs (instead of one per machine, get a big one and have it generate 3 phases for the shop). But I believe that has downsides, you absolutely need to understand the details and wouldn't be a recommended route. *The Victron Multiplus series can generally run at 2x rated for short periods without sweating. If your compressor is the main draw, why not put it on a VFD and run it off single phase? Even if you put in a way to generate 3-phase for everything else, at least it would reduce the overall load on that system saving cost.

TerryE sounds right. Had a quick search and couldn't find anything though.