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Now updated my knowledge: https://www.sigenergy.com/en/support/files/2213 It's still reduced functionality 'for your safety'. Struggling to find the reasons for most of the restrictions, most of the justifications I can think of are to limit warranty claims for more extreme cases. Edit to add: other systems don't have such artificial limitations. They claim they may add more functionality in future, but equally they could take stuff away in future if you are limited in what you can do without their involvement.

A big negative with them as far as I'm concerned is that they explicitly tell you that if their system can't call-home via the internet it may disable function after a period of time (30 or 90 days). That's unacceptable to me under any circumstance for something you expect to last 10+ years. Who knows if they will still be around then and if not you have a very expensive and heavy paperweight. Cloud connection should be for additional quality of life features. Basic function should always be there and locally manageable.

That is just a point to point antenna for wifi. I agree that you likely need a directional antenna each end for a good link over 100m but 100m isn't that far in the scheme of things. People are running wifi links measured in kilometers at decent speed. Psst: wifi signals are microwave signals 😛

Microtik is the other name I was thinking of, not necessarily for the non-technical. https://mikrotik.com/products You can do this on a lot of home routers too but its not necessarily well documented. OpenWRT supports doing it if your hardware does so a router that can have that installed is an option. But if you have 100m to traverse you should be looking at specific point to point antennas which pushes you towards the ubituiti/microtik type options.

Oh in that case the Ubiquiti suggestion is a good one. Building to building links is one of their business focuses. A number of other companies in the space too but the names escape me right now.

And lower generation per m2 and somewhat unknown/poor reputation for longevity.

Have you got a multimeter that can detect the PWM signal on the output? Would be good to be able to know whether its a problem with the unit sending the signal or the pump recieving.

As you know from previous threads I see the appeal of a floated floor for certain properties, at least as a phase 1 cost saving measure. But as soon as you add the complexities of not having a single level slab with no corners to negotiate I think you can throw any idea of cost savings out of the window and instead you are looking at a concrete floor as a premium option not a cost saver. If so, then there are other ways to go. If you are thinking of it as a cost saving approach then I think you need to change your plans. Either its dead simple and easy for the contractors or it's not happening. In other words I think it's only a viable option if you have an insulated slab or have designed around an uninsulated/badly thermally bridged floor (which I'm not sure would meet current regs).

That's what I guessed. Means it wouldn't work for @flanagaj if he wanted to powerfloat the slab, not put insulation and another concrete layer on top.

Is this to create one big network? Sounds like it. If so, the modern way to do this is with Wifi Meshing and it's supported by many many devices. Best to use them all of the same brand though to avoid any issues. You can often get them in multiples bundled together. Not recommending anything in particular but: https://www.currys.co.uk/computing/networking/whole-home-wi-fi-systems

How did you handle floor insulation?

I did a bit of digging trying to remember who this was. Theres a company called Polish Interiors that does windows but it's definitely not them, their range isn't even close. I came across fenbro.com which seems familar and is Polish. Looking at their site some of their windows look very much like the one I saw and liked but can't say for sure it's the same, and they seem like a reseller anyway so I guess maybe it was another reseller selling the same product? https://fenbro.com/products/aluminium-window-mb-104-passive-si/

It was more than a year ago now and my memory is hazy as it was more a scoping trip rather than a detailled specific look with note taking (went to the Homebuilding and Renovating Show at Excel in London on a whim as it was nearby). I know I wasn't particularly impressed with Internorm and Rationel. One that did seem to tick boxes was something like Polish Windows but not sure the name. They were really flogging the sound reduction properties of their windows (though I guess that is the same for any good triple glazed unit) but they felt right to the touch/look to me. The Internorm/Rationel ones either felt a bit clunky, had wierd locking mechanisms/handles, had fake plasticy wood film frames or engineered wood which in theory I don't mind but didn't seem well done. A lot of these things are options so maybe theres a good combination that I missed/wasn't displayed but for all the talk on here and elsewhere about how premium those brands feel, I couldn't help walking away thinking that I wouldn't want to pay a premium for anything I saw at their stands. I guess I'm picky.

Indeed, I found I wasn't that keen on some big brands that people use here that I expected to like. There were some nice elements but the overall packages seemed flawed in one way or another. Ended up liking others that I'd never heard of before. All a bit to early for me though (when I went I thought I'd be in a position to move sooner rather than later but that now seems to be significantly delayed).

Here is a Fronius doc exploring this though only by a small oversize. I've seen others discussing much larger ones but not got time to search for them. https://www.fronius.com/~/downloads/Solar Energy/Whitepaper/SE_WP_Yield_Impact_Current_Oversizing_EN.pdf I note the comment at the end about short circuit current limits. That one does have to be complied with but it is much higher than the MPPT string limit.

That was not my understanding. My understanding was that you could go over the amp rating by the allowed amount for the inverter. The inverter will limit the amps it draws from the panels to the amount in the specifications, but the panels being capable of outputting more is not an issue (within a limit). The inverter can manage this through adjusting the MPPT point.

Overpanelling by up to 50% is common and helps generate more electricity in winter but imposes a cap on generation in summer. Inverters do have ratings for the extent of overpanelling they support though. I think 50% is common but 100% options are available. Given the amount of sun we get in the cooler months and the price of panels it makes sense to overpanel as much as possible if you have the space.

Don't just stick normal strips underneath, you need a diffuser to avoid seeing the individual LEDs. You can get COB strips that have diffusion built in but the are usually white only so may not be what you want. So get an aluminium profile with a diffuser strip if you want a good looking outcome, consider getting profiles that angle the light in the way you want. I'd guess there are some prepackaged solutions for significant money that might avoid the profile but then you have lock in to the manufacturer rather than a generic, future proof, solution.

Saw rivets mentioned as the preferred option with screws the more standard one.

Assuming you think you might at any point in the future need to get into that space and do any work then keeping it clean seems to me to make life easier in future. It wlil never be as easier to clean than it is now. Having said that, the builder is right in that it does seem crazy to spend time on it (from his commerical POV).

Was looking at solar fixings recently and this seems to be the standard approach now for trapezoidal. Surprised me a bit as it seems weak but I guess good for preventing leaks. MCS approved.

Yep, got me at first too. For $12000 or maybe a bit more you can get a lowish hours name brand model equivalent likely with enough attachments to keep you busy. Resale value of that will be much higher than an no-name. More likely to go wrong, but more likely to get the parts easily and the resale value point makes it the winning option IMO.

Nice. Those sofas are a definite improvement and nice idea with the recliner/window combo. That large fixed window with side door is an arrangement I'm thinking about. How do you find it? Seems like it could have been mirrored at the kitchen end but see you went for a slider + french doors. What were your reasons behind that?

And that is the sort of layout I was thinking about. I've seen designers recommend this approach and it does look nice. In this case maybe a couple of chairs replacing the sofa backing the dining table. But some sort of room divider appeals more to me. Do you have any before/after photos? If you don't mind sharing.

Nice design. Has many elements that I've been thinking about for my future project (if it happens) so taken some ideas from it. One hopefully very minor thing. I think there might be a mistake in the drawing that you might want to look into. I see on the drawing that space for downpipes has been allowed from the upper bathrooms except for the guest bedroom. There is also a downpipe leading to nowhere on the floor above in the corner of the kitchen. I'm guessing the layout was flipped at some point and this wasn't moved? Depending on your construction this might be a very minor detail or a real pain to fix if not addressed before foundations are done. The space between kitchen island and dining table seems very large. Are you planning on some form of room divider there?