G and J

Hmmmm. I’ll have a vcl directly below my bottom level of fluffy but I’m now thinking condensation risk when on summer bypass…. Goodness it boils the brain!

If you are M is JohnMo really Q?

I am sooooo 20th century. Sigh. I guess the best representation of my ideal level of automation is the kind of clockwork plug mounted timer that turns the fairy lights on just outside our rear kitchen doors….

Ah I see, thank you. Using these would mean using rear supported backboxes, so they won’t work for me, so I’ll stick to the normally Appleby type dry lining boxes and I saw some cardboard jobbies to stop the backbox filling with pug on here which I though were a brilliant idea.

Oh my word my worst nightmare!

Can you have a normal rocker (i.e. on/off) switch with Loxone?

What are they called? I wanna take a closer look.

I’ll have no. 1. for our installation please. As far as possible we want a fit and forget type cosy heating system. Can I do that alongside using three cheap rate periods of heating?

Good grief there’s a warning for me. I’ll be running ducts in the loft and had intended to run on top of the first level of fluffy stuff, underneath a couple more. Ok your 100mm of PIR is more insulative than our 100mm of fluff (technical term!) but still, methinks I need to rethinks….

Oh dear. We’re screwed.

A source of much head shaking over the years. I plan, I measure, I calculate, I re-check obsessively, then J walks in and shoves it a little to the left so it looks right. Sigh.

Crumbs, I assumed pre apps were universal. I believe pre apps were an attempt to regularise and frankly, reduce the ‘would you’ enquiries that planners used to discuss. So if they’ve not done that then surely they should talk to you about what they will allow. There’s a lot of knowledge on here. You could share location and pictures and get the folks to comment on what the planners would go for.

Or decide what you want and bang in a pre app advice thingy?

I wasn’t either but a few hours reading on here and googling and I’m sold on the idea. We are building them in so they will be almost invisible (apart from a couple of grills). They connect to the flow and return of your wet UFH and they have a controller and, optionally a drain which I will be doing. The drain is for condensate if you run em cooler than the dew point, but we’re hoping we can run one zone UFH plus fancoils at a cool enough temperature to help cool the place but not enough to cause loads of condensation. So I think they’ll sit there with their guts at the same temp as the UFH and when more heat or cold is needed in that bedroom then the fan kicks in. That must mean a stat and controller just for them.

Hmmmm, the American military deliberately introduce positional errors into GPS, and clever stuff can go wrong in clever ways that are way beyond me, so I think I’ll stick to me hosepipe, but I’m glad it worked for you. But what were the pins for?

I imagine oil stabilises more quickly, and is maybe more visible in the plastic tube. Me being a cheapskate, I bought a 3m length of clear plastic tube the right diameter for hozelock fittings and I use it on the end of a long garden hose. Works a treat.

I was really keen on having one, but the more I looked into it the less attractive it looked. MVHR simply doesn’t move enough air for it to help that much. Instead we are going to be gently cooling our screed downstairs and we are having a Fancoil mainly for cooling in the main bedroom and probably piping and cabling for a Fancoil in each of the other bedrooms.

I like my water level. It’s cheap and reliable. @Alan Ambrose is this a general question or are you soon to be setting out some footings?

Our 1930s bungalow simply couldn’t take any more weight on its walls or scant foundations, so keeping some of the ground floor would have been difficult and expensive. I wonder if that’s the case for the OP.

So if a tundish must be used then drain that to a standard u bend or similar that is also used by something else to ensure the trap never runs dry. My water softener will be in the garage outside my airtight envelope so through wall o/f looking good. My UVC (upstairs) tundish and fancoil drain however will drain to a trap (downstairs) which is also used by the kitchen sink.

FUBAR I suspect lol. Back to cyber lighting, I think I can conclude that I can add this stuff later, especially if I wire loop-at-switch. Given the massive retrofit market there must be compared to new build that conclusion is entirely credible. No extra wiring is needed, and the stuff isn’t desperately expensive so the exclusion from VAT reclaim won’t matter, and may even be negated by reducing prices as the market matures. Plus I am capable of diversion and I’ll need to focus on the build.

I am sooooo gonna regret asking this, but what does WAF stand for?

So cat something cable to every light switch backbox from a thumping great Ethernet switch you mean?

That’s such a kind offer, thank you. I’ll do some more reading in my spare time (yep, when laying awake) and pick one system to play with and start prototyping.

I’d be tempted to imagine/doodle/draw whatever the house I’d build if the whole thing wasn’t there. A buildable plan mind, not a flight of fancy. Then determine how close you can get to that with each option. That process may well make the decision easy for you. All of the options will be feasible physically, where they may differ is price and planning acceptability.