G and J

Or fit one of those pump things so you can swim against a flow and live even longer. Marvellous. But say three Hail Marys every day and pay for two forests to be planted.

It appears likely that the inverter is tripping out as it believes the local mains voltage is too high. Before they start dismantling anything it might be worth getting them to check that the actual voltage at the inverter is close to the voltage reported on the app. If the fault is the voltage sensor then it’ll identify which bit to swap out. Good news is that you know how to check operation now.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ULTRICSÂ-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Ammeter/dp/B00TM0W8ZY/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2UE6HDXZIW6UV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.GMoWxDsdxB9y2TrsYb5yPLNSR4dxqPPmAUDWFYk6KUQhFXkMt0BWaSL6Dk6hgLuGhfBly3GQQM1O7z3VqjYIlQ2CTDiDJ8PJvwjIhMM4roAqEEV7mYxFFFeg5mlgqtW40EsyiwATzNrFbj3Zc6fArKiqmp5fT77T5xmooA00yOEHi-tTE_UWBPVViRgI8xjO6fr-UbGt_TIXqJhiNIOaRtlkMA4Jqm45p8THswYH66YjBaqKw053BSWg0aBUKNeFYPUazagXmAMfTF7DVdVNnlPkDXPhnz9VM4JMSKQOyI0.d_GY3pwfwwqEi0bQQY4LpzXiFHqhWFsaRStjEGBXgvE&dib_tag=se&keywords=Multimeter&qid=1733659034&sprefix=multimter%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-8 would be an example. The picture even shows it set to the setting you will need. But please be careful. Or, [good idea alert!] having identified that your inverter is not operating correctly you can get the company in to honour their warranty (but a meter is a useful thing to have around).

The key question is whether peeps would buy them and at what price. When I grew up peeps talked about the Jerry built prefabs being awful. (You know the post ww2 quick and cheap homes, of which a remarkable number still survive, but were still vilified). Add to that the prefab section concrete houses that lots of local authorities had to buy back because they were awful. Plus lenders and insurers not taking to any of the ‘foreign muck’. Oh and the leasehold scandal too. We have a culture with a hardened perception that the building industry does bad stuff.

I shall try and look up the specific heat capacity. I like the idea of heating during bursts of cheap rate lecky, so that’s also important to me. And thank you for the info.

Good plan. If the quotes come in ok what’s the upsides of a liquid screed if one does have the depth for either?

Just out of interest which warranty co. did you go for (we are going to be choosing in the next month)?

What are the downsides of a liquid screed? Cost? Cracking?

Umm, why won’t the fitting be easy?

Wow. Do the doors sound like the doors on the USS Enterprise? (Being serious I’m with @Mike on this one, running a positive pressure sounds like an invitation to trouble, and running balanced should keep smells out just as well - all down to the quality of the extra carbon filter you may have fitted).

So for stuffing in a frame mineral wool is the winner! Woo hoo.

Ok, just googled knauf frametherm 035 and that is a lot cheaper than the nyrock. Is there a downside? Are there other products I should also look at? Will it save me enough to pay for my part Oh stuff? :-0

You sweet talking thing you! Lol OK, what .035 product are you thinking of?

Both bed 1 windows face east. I called them north and south to differentiate them, i.e. the more northerly of the two and the more southerly. I can see (now) that being confusing. Sorry. I do appreciate you taking a look at this you know. Yep, bed 1 is a furnace (according to part O anyway). I’ve played with the details of the opening window and that’s I think the greatest ventilation I can get with that window size. If there are other settings that are better I’d be chuffed to bits. The oriel window is fixed to avoid extra balcony glass/ironwork/whatever and to get the maximum glazed area to enjoy the view over the in bed morning coffee (it’s a wrinkly thing). To convert this and a couple of others to opening would probably cost a lot more than paying a consultant to do me dynamic part Oh! and still not pass the simplified method. I did that on my first pass. Makes things worse. Maybe I should try it again in case I mislead myself (one of my key skills, it appears!). I could not fathom what these numbers were for. So I took it to mean sequential window numbers in each room. Might redo these. Thing is I have tried all sorts with this and I can’t get a pass on simplified method. That’s even with me claiming cross ventilation which is a bit of a stretch. That’s why I resigned myself to a choice of wholesale glazing design changes or a dynamic modelling method, and the glazing choice would not make me happy and will cost more. I wonder if our BCO has looked at our design and said to himself, ‘that’s ok from an overheating point of view’ and that adds to the argument that a PHPP report will be enough evidence.

(I know I should start a new thread but I can’t resist replying….) That'll take our wall u value from 0.181 to 0.184 and I think I’m pushing my luck at 0.181 as it is…. but I will price it up.

So, here it is, my latest attempt (of several) to get this b$£**!!ing spreadsheet to reflect common sense. I'd be chuffed if anyone can identify where I'm going wrong and thus can avoid a dynamic modelling thingy. 20241207 Simplified Part 0 - munged.xlsx

We are planning 140mm stud frame, filled with 140mm Nyrock 032, thence 60mm battens with 60mm Rockwool RW3 inboard of the frame. Downstairs will have rendered block skin too, upstairs will have 15mm plasterboard so we hope we will be ok on the noise front. Fingers crossed, but it's a relatively quiet area. (Woodbridge, where all the wrinklies go to serve their final years, all encouraged by the Guardian's best places to live list it seems!)

Hmmm, can you simply isolate the battery systems to see if the behaviour persists? And have you a clamp (he writes as if he understands exactly how they work!)

Well done for gathering that data. What else does your system include? I don’t know enough about it to recognise the boxes in your pic.

I’d be watching for a gradual change in voltages between the two dc feeds as the sun goes round. Ok today may be a bit hopeless but still, if you catch it with zero on one feed screenshot it, it’s hard data that will be useful for diagnostics.

Is that right now? If so it appears to be showing both sides doing a bit as you’d expect this close to noon, if your ridge is more or less running due north to south.

It does seem to suggest an intermittent issue with the west solar wiring. Have you an app for the inverter? If you do can you see input voltages?

The spreadsheet uses a clock face type designation for the direct each window is facing and then in a separate box you set which direction the clock face is orientated to. In our case that bit is easy, our drawing are draw with due north damn near directly upwards. The big one has an oriel and is fixed to avoid needing a balustrade and the small one does fully open. Will do, we’ve been messing with it to try and understand how it works and so I’m going to redo it from scratch first. I’d be chuffed to bits with some help here, so thank you.

Good point. I’m looking at an MVHR unit that’s spec’d for about twice our size, though that was done in pursuit of quietness and longevity but clearly it would also help if we did overheat. Because we’ve had a good few hot nights here in Suffolk over the last few years we are going for an ASHP that also cools, with a deployed Fancoil in the main bedroom and probably plumbing and wiring for fancoils in the other bedrooms too. We’ll run one zone for UFH and Fancoil to start with and run just above dew point, with the option of ‘valving’ out the Fancoil if needed so we can run really cold without condensed floors. So I’m feeling ok about overheating in reality. Part O is however different. Plan is to use 90mm semi rigid (I think it’s the zhender stuff) in a radial system and I’m doubling up vents in a couple of areas. I’m hoping to hit less than 0.5 but in truth it’s the thing I’m least confidant of and in the next couple of months I need to learn more towards this. We have a narrow plot and thus thin walls and my initial disappointment with that has given way to a feeling that airtight makes up for a lot of missing U. We shall see but one lives in hope. I appreciate the input @Nickfromwales

We have always had Clearview, but their designs are more suited to traditional, so we are planning a Charnwood in our new place, not this stove but the build quality of Charnwood is good........ Chk on the photos that new rope has been fitted behind the door and inside looks good (ideally new fire bricks) Last thing is your fitter happy to fit a stove he's not supplying?