G and J

We're hoping to start our timber frame build in the next couple of months, also combination of render/timber cladding. We started by thinking we would not use block work, however on investigation some lenders (standard and lifetime) have specific guidelines as to what they will or will not lend on. It's not our intention to sell, and we are not looking to borrow, but it's a case of never say never, so we have decided to block under the render and cement board under the cladding, which was also reduced. The sweet spot on current "rules" appeared to be min 50% masonry and max 50% timber cladding (even if on blockwork). There are no doubt specialist lenders, but if the worst happened we'd rather things be as straight forward as possible. For same reason we will take a build warranty, even if the liklihood a ever successfully making a claim is slim. It turns out that there is not much additional m2 cost and in the end we probably will have slightly better acoustic performance, albeit with a thicker wall, which for us is a factor as we have a very narrow site.

In fairness dude that is inspired. Why didn’t I think of that?

It depends if you are a bargain hound. I’m sad enough to get a buzz out of finding a bargain on gumtree, or at a pinch eBay (I’ve not graduated to buying on Facebook marketplace yet). If you add up the time I spend browsing I’m probably working for £1 an hour but I got an Aldi platform for £20 which works nicely to 5’ platform level and a tower for £100 that goes to 16’. But then, I’m a tight wotsit.

Thanks For info

Nod, am I right in recalling that you used protek? Realise that none of them are likely to pay out, but more concerned with "ease of use" along the way and no surprises

Yes take a warranty, however running and hiding maybe the better option! Thanks for confirming, our choice is Self Build Zone (build zone under another name?!) or Protek. Latter more expensive up front, but cheaper in long run?......hard to tell

Just out of interest, as we are about to take cover, which warranty company are you with?

I don't have to worry about that, I have a chauffeur for such things..... 🙂 I'll see you all there.

Heat shrink labels for cables? You just gotta post a link! I can never read my own indelible pen scrawl on the sheathing!

Part of me is the later Luddite. And it’s a bit like having a funeral plan. No bloody use to me in my lifetime apart from the comfort that it reduces stress for J a little bit at a crap time. But as you say, to each their own.

Not sure how helpful this is but here goes..... When we met our architect on first beauty parade we gave a budget, basically it was what we thought the house would be worth, minus what we paid for the plot (in our case an overpriced bungalow that is to be demolished (shortly🤞)....not scientific. In fairness, contrary it seems to your experience, he said right at the outset it would be work to achieve the m2 we were aiming for, but the "budget" was repeatedly referred to by both us and them while we were in the design phase e.g. we have a small first floor corner unsupported, it would have been cheaper to have a pillar, which they offered. We are likely to bust our budget, (always thought we would) but it will be our choice and largely driven by the standard of finishes/landscaping etc, rather than by the form or method of the build, which whilst pretty standard is aiming for a high quality, low energy, airtight house (not passive standard). So I suppose in your position (and we're guessing your a lot younger than us) we'd be thinking ....has there been design creep? What is driving the increase in costs, fabric or finishes? Can we / are we willing to phase the project ? What are the things that you really really want? It may help you find an acceptable way forward. None of the above is to say we wouldn't be feeling peeved if we were in your position now.

I think I’m capable of putting that kind of system together, and I know I’d enjoy the challenge, but I’m going the other way and installing nothing that isn’t fixable by normally available tradespeople. Maybe bend that rule a little and use a Shelley relay/dimmer, but that’s it. What’s your motivation for going this route?

Or is it the Mask of Zorro? Yes, yes, I know, a miss-spent youth in another century. Sigh.

If they go under the underlay what function are they performing? I guess if the underlay is left loose the water still gets past the horizontal battens but why not just put the underlay under the vertical battens?

I’m coming late to this one, so sorry if I’ve missed an essential aspect, but aren’t counterbattens (which in my mind run vertically up the roof) supposed to sit on top of the tiling underlay? Then the normal, horizontal battens go on top of the counterbattens. Thus however tight the underlay is, (and as it’s on panels it can’t droop in this instance), the water can still quickly drain and is not held back by the horizontal battens?

If I’ve understood correctly the waste goes out through the back of the cupboard and then drops a couple of meters. Could this be sucking the trap dry enough to let foul air get back up? To test simply gently run a little water into the sink and see if that reduces the smell after a few mins. Assume that’s a dishwasher outlet connected to the trap too, Might be worth making a note of when the smell occurs with respect to both emptying a sink full and also the dishwasher running.

Is the smell in the sink or in the cupboard underneath it?

Hmmmmm. Methinks I need guidance from the SE designing our foundations.

I like frame screws, as I’ve always called ’em. You can get little ones nowadays too.

I like the idea of my non load bearing walls being built off of my screed, thus having continuous insulation under them. But I prefer screws and rawlplugs to fix (yet another example of the Luddite in me). Apart from avoiding my UFH pipes is there any reason I can’t screw me sole plates down?

Maybe a dumb question but if one has MCS’d solar panels then one can earn from export, so adding a non MCS’d battery later automatically allows selling stored cheap leaky back, should you wish. Or have I missed something (again)?

I bunged in some cheapies from Amazon mostly hidden (garage, behind bedside cabinet, etc.). No buzzing or whining, might not be the fastest charging in the world but then stuff stays plugged in till I get up in the morning, so no issues on charging rates for me. Modern switch mode stuff should use microscopic levels of juice on standby, methinks, so I like em. Lots.

I speak (well, type!) as a keen woodworker and someone who has just put a deposit on a panelised self assembly timber frame package, based on 2.4m x 2.4m panels. The panels we are getting go up in price if the exceed 2.4m in height. Basically they work to the sheet material with the studs cut to suit. I think that the trick is to accept that approach. Work to the tightest restriction.

Ummm, no. After the event I thought of the things I should have put.

I was quite keen on using an insulated BnB floor till we thought through the process of building and the need to temporarily board out the ground floor, plus the idea of polystyrene sitting there accessible from the void didn’t sound as rodent proof as I’d like. Thinking about it one would have to board out anyway as it would be a huge trip hazard, the beams 50mm above the blocks. Another stupid idea on the fire….