canalsiderenovation

Got some wood from our wood pile by the front door, as I was about to throw it on the fire saw some.movement, poor little guy almost got cremated...

So something like these is sufficient rather than a cooker hood extractor in worktop type. https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/kitchen-extractor-fans/cat7490004

Yep it's a solid concrete pad 1970s, some areas have wooden bits where the pipes are for our oil heating which is being ripped out (see pics) which when the heating worked (for about a month, would heat up the wood bits which was a bit weird). All door frames, skirting, plaster all coming off so makes no difference (and not all doors staying in same place anyway). Edit: Building Report from when we purchased it says: The floors throughout the property are solid concrete construction. There are ducts within the floor slab to allow the central heating pipework. These sections of the floor have a timber board over them in order to protect the pipework.The floors were generally found to be level with no evidence of any significant settlement. Some slight unevenness was noted to the surfaces but this is considered to be within normal building tolerances.

Ah thanks so much that would be amazing, private message me if it's easier. Cost wise I'm sure it's got to be better than digging up our floors. I don't want to go to the expense of putting in ASHP, triple glazed windows and wall insulations if the floor insulation is going to be insufficient. Our current ceiling height in our living room is 2.6m and the hall and bedroom areas is 2.35m (they vary because our property is like two bungalows seperated by a flat roof and the bungalow part with the bedrooms have steps).

I'm really put off by electric underfloor heating and LVT gluedown flooring is non negotiable. I'd rather stick with 'wet' UFH. When you say he has a thing about screed do you mean he's using too much so he should reduce the screed and add more insulation? I'm feeling a bit out of my depth here but want to ensure we have the right about of insulation. I'd rather not dig up 100m2 plus of existing flooring. Any advice or help would be great, my main worries for the whole build is heating and insulation and windows, the latter I feel more confident with but this part is not something I have any knowledge of.

So I guess if I'm reading this correctly if we want thicker insulation we would probably have to dig up our existing concrete pad....

I don't like those either ?

Oh ok. Anyone who doesn't have a cooker hood what do they have instead?

Do building regs dictate we have to have one or an alternative. We won't have MVHR.

Ok, I've had a reply from the builder. I Have spoken with Wunda (they are the company that we have used for the last 10 years) regards the product that you have mentioned below. Its unfortunately not the right product for this application. It can be incorporated but it’s not the most cost effective. Are you averse to electric UFH to your existing floors? I have had an idea that would give you the same 100mm PIR board that will be going in your extension floors (see sketches attached. Our printer/scanner is offline so I had to take a photograph of them). The only section where the electric UFH would meet the water UFH in the extension is the open plan kitchen/dining room. This room would be spilt into two zones anyway so I don’t think it would be a problem. The electric UFH obviously pulls on your electricity more and you may prefer the water type UFH so the ASHP can run it. You could have 100mm PIR board with water UFH. It would leave you a finished ceiling height of 2155mm which is not an issue from a building regs point of view. I personally think the 75mm would be the best option in terms of U value and a slightly higher ceiling height but it’s your decision. We will obviously price up whatever you decide. ***** I've attached the pics but I can't really see them well. I'm not keen on electric for our existing, it's quite a large area and in my view defeats an ASHP but anyone got any suggestions?

I hate them. I've had one in the past three places I've lived and never used them, I'd rather open a door or window. I never fry food so that's probably why I don't find them useful. Our plan is a hob on an island and I don't want one on or over the island. Is there an alternative. We will have 5.5 metre sliding doors so ventilation isn't an issue.

We are off to Weru next week - they suppose to have a large range of doors but suspect it is going to be Internorm/RK prices....

It looked worse than it was, just had to have tetanus and those sticky strip things. I don't know if you could count a DIY accident as cutting the packaging of some samples open of LVT flooring with some scissors and cutting into the side of my thumb. I needed stiches...

This was when it had nearly healed but I was digging and dug into my foot. I have a scar now that looks like a Nike logo on my foot. I did a bit of an 'ow', carried on digging and came in and noticed my trainer all bloodied. OH nearly fainted when I took off said trainer and blood everywhere.

What will I do . . . . ? Hope we don't get cold temperatures in a house with no heating because working from home is painful at the best of times without now not being able to leave.' II'll miss my weekly trips to the Hilton with work, purely for heating and a bath! I can now continue to try and declutter in preparation for our build flogging off random bits and let other people dismantle them. Sold our old plastic oil tank for £100 today and someone dismantled an old coalbunker for £10 yesterday. Less work for the builder to do... I'm also mourning the fact our May holiday to the Maldives and India is now looking less likely and will probably be cancelled ☹️

Thanks very much for this. A minimum of 100mm insulation is what I'm going to communicate to the builder/architects for the existing....

@PeterW can you post links of what you mean so I can get my head around it. I just want to understand it before I try and communicate to the builder what I mean.....

Crikey! I'm going to speak to the builder about the suggestion above about 100mm insulation with one of the thin UFH board systems like the one from Wunda at 22mm on top. If nothing else one thing I need to make clear is no less than 100mm insulation.....

Yes but due to cost we would prefer not to, especially as our ceiling height isn't an issue and all doors, skirting plaster etc being replaced....

Thanks @PeterW it will be something to take forward with the builder. Having had no heating for 5 months now being warm and low heating bills is a priority, I'm so nesh.

I'm a bit ignorant. Note that these measurements are only in relation to insulating our existing. The extension is bigger than our existing so this will be in line with building regs (I never thought to clarify what this will be as I was more worried on our existing). Our existing is a concrete pad (bunglow built in late 70s). We are having a gluedown LVT if that's what you mean.

For our existing floor and wall space of our bungalow we have made it clear to our architect and builders we want to improve the insulation as we will have wet UFH fitted with our ASHP. We are lucky in that we have higher than normal ceiling space in our existing bungalow (though it varies as our current layout is a bit like two bungalows so one is different than the other) and we will need super flat flooring for the gluedown LVT. The builder was talking about 50mm or 75mm - anyone interpret these scribbles so I can get some idea of what he is talking about (still waiting for his quote yet) and which would be better? We will also have wall insulation added and our windows will be triple glazed.

Gaulhoffer haven't come back yet. So far only had Ideal Combi and Internorm, ruled our Klober aluminium which was around Internorm prices as OH wasn't keen on the profile. Still waiting for Gaulhoffer aluclad PVC, Weru and Velfac.

Double Internorm ? oh wow! We are heading to a kitchen place nearby so will pop in and see. They may very well be too expensive, worth asking I guess. Thanks

Thanks - something to consider then. If we have an existing window opening that is too large and want to reduce size to have single pane openings is it cheaper to adjust the width or height, e.g. work involved for builder to do. Idealcombi have come back with a couple of options but in terms of work for the builder to do it would be useful to know which is cheaper to adjust.... width or height. Ideal Combi have said the maximum single pane triple glazed is1600*1390 so we would need to adjust our three windows 1810 width *1200 to 1600mm.