LiamJones

Thanks @Chanmenie anyone else on here running f7 filters on a vent axia plus B. I don’t really understand why it isn’t officially supported?

Nice, did you got with the advance s for the f7 filters? I was eyeing up the vent axia plus B, but it doesn’t officially support the f7 filter. It’s a bit weird, because the plus b looks more powerful than the advance S (now rebranded econiq S)

@Chanmeniedid you work out the answer to this? I have the same question!

If you “live” there, you can request an emergency appointment on the day the DNO (re)connect you

Ecology were willing to talk to me about additional borrowing recently, so would assume they are back up and running

I guess it’s possible you don’t know the first 1 if you didn’t lay it. Some pipe has markings on it per meter. You can do the diff to work out the length. Else, grab a thermal camera and check where the pipe runs

Christ that looks like a lot of bits to go wrong. I can only comment on flow rates. It’s not one number suits all I’m afraid. You can work it out for yourself using LoopCad available freely on the internet. It’s a combination of loop length, pipe diameter, flow temp and heat loss. You should know the first 3, the last one you can work out from Jeremy’s infamous spreadsheet on here

Also running deep flow gutters

Yep pleased with mine so far, no issues.

Went on holiday recently and the shower was a hansgrohe raindance S with PowderRain. It’s a super fine warm mist. Each nozzles has multiple holes. Was super impressed and now have that on the ‘must’ list for the build. Are there any equivalents from other brands? Probably going to get the hansgrohe pulsify S, also with PowderRain, unless I can find alternate brands

I honestly can’t remember. Less than a tenner a board I think? Buildup was the 16mm board, then primer, tile adhesive and tile. So basically 16mm more than a standard tile job. If you went 10mm porcelain, 5mm adhesive you’re 31mm all in. Plus any levelling you need. I had plus 10mm in the lowest, but next to nothing at the high spots.

My last last was a Reno, we had an open plan kitchen dinner that bridged the new and the old. We had the new slab made up to existing height. The old part was also concrete so that helped, then chucked SLC over the lot, then used Wunda over floor boards throughout, tiled straight on top. No issues. I was worried about the joint between new and old, but no problems. Probably waited about 6 months for it to settle before tiling. I think the wunda boards added a layer of decoupling to for some differential movement.

Has anyone fitted resilient bar to a stud wall, with only one sheet of plasterboard either side? All the British gypsum details for resilient bar, specify double boarding to both sides? Anyone know why?

Hi, I need to run 150mm to/from atmosphere. These 2 ducts will need to run through 100mm masonry, 80mm cavity (EPS beads), 100mm masonry, 100mm EPS EWI, Krend silicone. can I just insulated the duct up to the inner leaf, or do I need to insulate the duct all the way through. If I sealed the duct to the inner leaf, the likelihood of moisture being in the wall buildup is low, right? Pre-insulated 150mm ends up at 172 o/d. I’d prefer to keep the size down, all things being equal.