LiamJones

Went on holiday recently and the shower was a hansgrohe raindance S with PowderRain. It’s a super fine warm mist. Each nozzles has multiple holes. Was super impressed and now have that on the ‘must’ list for the build. Are there any equivalents from other brands? Probably going to get the hansgrohe pulsify S, also with PowderRain, unless I can find alternate brands

I honestly can’t remember. Less than a tenner a board I think? Buildup was the 16mm board, then primer, tile adhesive and tile. So basically 16mm more than a standard tile job. If you went 10mm porcelain, 5mm adhesive you’re 31mm all in. Plus any levelling you need. I had plus 10mm in the lowest, but next to nothing at the high spots.

My last last was a Reno, we had an open plan kitchen dinner that bridged the new and the old. We had the new slab made up to existing height. The old part was also concrete so that helped, then chucked SLC over the lot, then used Wunda over floor boards throughout, tiled straight on top. No issues. I was worried about the joint between new and old, but no problems. Probably waited about 6 months for it to settle before tiling. I think the wunda boards added a layer of decoupling to for some differential movement.

Has anyone fitted resilient bar to a stud wall, with only one sheet of plasterboard either side? All the British gypsum details for resilient bar, specify double boarding to both sides? Anyone know why?

Hi, I need to run 150mm to/from atmosphere. These 2 ducts will need to run through 100mm masonry, 80mm cavity (EPS beads), 100mm masonry, 100mm EPS EWI, Krend silicone. can I just insulated the duct up to the inner leaf, or do I need to insulate the duct all the way through. If I sealed the duct to the inner leaf, the likelihood of moisture being in the wall buildup is low, right? Pre-insulated 150mm ends up at 172 o/d. I’d prefer to keep the size down, all things being equal.

Not a structural engineer, but the horizontal timber could be acting as a collar, preventing spread, so maybe nothing to worry about. not really sure why they haven’t just birds mouthed the rafters in though?!

Has anyone got a detail for this? I was just about to pull the trigger on gypframe, but the majority of my stud walls will be in the roof and have to deal with a pitched ceiling.

sandtoft rivius antique slate (interlocking clay). Best price I could get was £1.99+vat about 3 months ago

Yep

Osb over rafter memvrane counter batten and at the fascia.. fascia kicked up 70mm above rafter legs eaves tray mebrane 25mm ventilation eaves tray Gse tray solar

I’ve just done this I used two eaves trays. Yeah they’re not 380mm like to instructions, but enough I was comfortable with. I will do a full write up at some point

I’ve got significantly more holes in my membrane from the battens

25mm from brissco I didn’t do any reconciling. The tray has the membrane lapped over it. And the screw holes are into pvc fascia. I’m not concerned about water getting in there.

I’ve also got osb then membrane. went with vent above the tray.

I wouldn’t worry that much, you’ll be nailing through it again with the normal battens at a gauge less than that!