Papillon

Wow factors and design features are great, but how you get a good cohesive design is more important to me. I’ve seen a lot of designs that are just a mess of ‘features’ that are put together in just a blend of trash. like they will say ‘I want a secret library door’, and the door goes nowhere and eats space, I have a list of just terrible ideas I wouldn’t want to embarrass anyone with. absolutely get on Pinterest and get a ‘mood board’ of things, but then you need a designer to make the best of each feature and make them work. Please watch out on the make sure it has shading, tricky in this day and age.

I don’t understand the need to bash architects. I (architect) use the SE sparingly as he charges more per hour than I do, and I want what’s best for my customers. Hope your SE knows all the planning and building regs, and can design a workable and attractive plan, because most I’ve met are not planning or design creative. OP, depending on where you live and the size of your house, I would expect to pay maybe about 2-3k for each stage.

I love a vaulted ceiling and I’ll pt them anywhere, no shame. double height can be a bit weird and too much. It’s nice in a barnstyle but I’m careful with them.

I love these! Very cool. I always love getting them printed for my customers too, brings a smile to their faces lol

Have you put together a drawing showing the other examples that show you’re in line with others?

I’d ask to speak to their supervisor but not in a confrontational way, just for a second opinion. I don’t think going to appeal is a bad route, I’ve seen plenty successful appeals.

Mate, if a customer came to me with that as a site to design you a new house I’d be kissing the ground you walked on. They have really done you a solid there, that’s massive and ugly so you’re probably going to get something great there. I wouldn’t see any issues for you even not knowing the area to be honest. By looking at that circulation, you could improve your layout and get massive rooms. I wouldn’t bother with a pre-app. Just go in with a nice contemporary design on that footprint (you could maybe move the gable to the middle if you like). Full planning, go for it.

Good points. Maybe look at Custom Build, plots are serviced, not cheap or anything but it’s a little more organised. There are still plots at Bicester (Graven Hill), depends where in london you work but 1.5hrs from London isn’t bad and there’s a train too so might be an hour even.

Check whether you’re in an area with a solution available, most I’ve come across wouldn’t even accept treatment plants yet.

There are a lot of plots locked up in the nutrient neutrality issue, depending on where you are looking it might be an issue. North of London is fine until you hit Norfolk then it’s awful. East and West of London and it’s iffy.

Yes I think it looks nicer and it’s more lightweight. When you join say, a lower height garage to the main house, there’s a part that’s sometimes unsupported brickwork above the garage roof on the house wall (not sure how to describe it) but if you use cladding or render there, it is just neater and you don’t need a thick wall or support.

I really like timber frame as an architect, very versatile and a quick tidy build. Costs are about the same as brick and mortar. One thing to be wary of, they are putting block/render on the outside skin more and more now, which betrays the whole point of timber frame for me. I think I answered in that thread and my answer still stays the same. Happy to give impartial advice as an architect who used to work for a timber frame manufacturer. I don’t think you need both engaged at once.

I’ve worked for both as an architect and in timber frame. firstly don’t bother with their catalogue designs, I’ve looked at the main ones from all the companies and they are outdated and the new ones are a bit meh. I’d get an architect (or a designer with skills) for the concept and then the timber frame company for the rest. Make sure you disengage the architect and you’re happy with the layout. Don’t worry if it’s not perfectly to scale with the wall thicknesses etc, just get the rooms and elevations looking nice. Don’t spend more than 2k. The planning and design phase from a timber frame company is actually a bargain, but they have low creativity or flair in their design, they are usually technicians so ymmv. Ask for a discount as you have the design already. Most TF companies are using ~£2000 per M2 build cost (excluding land, but including foundations) to price. You can ring them up and ask what their general rule is and give the architect a floor area to work to. That way your design is buildable. this is assuming you have a plot with some potential already. I’d get a planning consultant to assess the site (from the timber frame company) for free, first.

I just use cad light now, I have used cad architect, but it’s not necessary. you can buy an add-on for sketchup that makes it easier to set up pages, it makes it to scale. I think it’s called LayOut? I find Cad the easiest, maybe you could get a trial version and do it in 30 days?

Draw the floor and elevations in CAD in 2D, this is because DWG is the industry standard for most, ie engineers, surveys and the like. Import into Sketchup, you might need Pro for this. I use sketchup to make it into a 3D model. I do this because it’s quicker than doing the 3D in Vectorworks, Revit or CAD and most jobs don’t need 3D drawings anyway. I use V-ray to render the sketchup. I mainly picked this one as it comes with the Sketchup Studio package. I think there are better ones but it’s fine for what you need. Then Photoshop the image to make it good.

It’s definitely worth checking. When they are short they are less strict with other issues, with people on all levels of build. Also, worth looking at other angles for why you should be allowed to build on your land. For example, disabilities, sustainability and how you can mitigate the flood issues. You’re doing the right thing using a planning consultant. If you can’t build for now, get a barn or garage there so next time you try you can show it has buildings on.

Ooh that’s interesting, good find! Seems like downstairs too. I haven’t worked it out yet, I guess the split would not be in the middle of the sash. I usually do windows 2100mm from the floor, 1200mm high. maybe the solution is to also move the windows up, and maybe the ceiling too? Higher ceilings are nice. Sorry for short people who can’t see out the windows though.

I have only managed this when the 5 year land supply was short of a lot of houses. Also the ground floor had to be garage. Not sure where you are but if not now, I think in a few years we will be very short of housing so don’t give up hope. Have you had a look at the 5 year land doc?

part O, section 3.8 https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/1057374/ADO.pdf I just noticed a part in the new part O requiring 1100mm as windows are now supposed to be open all the time due to it being warmer. This is more of a balcony height rather than a typical window height which is about 900mm. I’m a bit confused how it works. If true, windows will feel too high and look squashed in proportion. Imagine every window like a bathroom window. Now obviously sash windows are a bit of a problem. The proportions of a Georgian-style house will look pretty bad. I’ve no idea how this works with fire escape windows, since that’s the maximum height. If you can’t use fire escape windows then you can’t have open plan stairs. Plus the guarding has to be non-claimable so can’t be a bar right? Do you think it will apply on the ground floor? It doesn’t say it won’t. Is it all windows or just windows used for air flow? Does that mean if you have passive ventilation it doesn’t matter? Has anyone had any experience with this yet.

I think the kids say ‘lit’ these days

Just some info if you’re struggling. Timber frame companies will do you a free site appraisal on the condition you go with them to build. however their designers aren’t usually that cool and you should find your own designer still. Fixed fee, concept only. use the timber company for planning.

I think the balconies look clunky, expensive and you wouldn’t use them. Used right solar shades are kind of cool, I think you might have over used them there and the design is clashing with itself. The windows have a very vertical emphasis and the shades are horizontal.

I think we said the same answer? Number 1 right? if it looks like 3 then I probably won’t like it lol sorry. op I do get the issue. I might be tempted to move the plane of the wood wall forwards just a smidge so the face isn’t in line with the brick gable. Then it would be the more dominant block instead of a bit of a merge.

It should be larch, the brick looks a mess.

That cad block is actually my fault I think I added that one.