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DaveAF

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  1. DaveAF
    Hello We live in a 1930s terraced house. Our new neighbours just retiled their roof and the roofers used a bonding gutter where the roofs tiles meet. They have left a 3 inch space between the 2 roofs and tiles on both roofs are kicking up where they sit on the bonding gutter. I'm concerned about water getting under the raised up tile edges on our side because we do not have felt under our tiles and the roofers haven't bedded our edge tiles in mortar. See the 2 attached pictures. Our roof is the orange tile. Do I have anything to worry about? All thoughts welcome. Regards David
  2. DaveAF
    Yes thats all logical. Thanks again.
  3. DaveAF
    That's certainly worth exploring. So am I right in thinking that its highly unlikely that a piece of corroded steel pipe could travel from inside the pipe all the way up to the boiler on the first floor and cause it to break down? I guess that they might say that could happen. Does pipe corrosion happen on the outside of a pipe or on the inside too? Thanks again for your thoughts. Much appreciated. David
  4. DaveAF
    Thats good advice. Thanks for helping.
  5. DaveAF
    Understood. New kitchen put in last year so the wife doesn't like the idea of half of that being dismantled anyway. So far Homeserve have been pretty useless, it took 3 appointments to get a plumber on site for the first boiler and system inspection but I suppose they might be very busy. They have yet to call me about Monday's failed inspection and when they do thats when I find out if I can change to a boiler cover only insurance policy and not cover the pipes. Thanks for your observations.
  6. DaveAF
    Very.
  7. DaveAF
    The boiler and controls passed inspection. Unfortunately they say that as they've found a steel pipe in the system, the entire system, boiler, controls and all are not covered.
  8. DaveAF
    It covers breakdown of our boiler and its controls. The boiler is 15 years old and has been maintained since year 1 by british gas. Our basic level british gas insurance quote for this year had gone up to £565 and Homeserves quote was for about £170. The boiler inspection revealed the steel pipe from the meter to the kitchen. Copper pipes after the kitchen. Would it be expensive to replace the steel with copper?
  9. DaveAF
    I guess so. But they haven't offered to change the pipe to copper for us "for a price" . Our system just failed their eligibility check. Would changing the pipe from steel to copper be very expensive?
  10. DaveAF
    Yes you're probably correct. Any idea how much it might cost to change our pipe from steel to copper?
  11. DaveAF
    Yes its a bit strange. But I guess that the other side of the meter is someone elses problem as far as the insurer sees things.
  12. DaveAF
    The steel pipe from outside a property in to the meter is the property of whoever owns the national gas pipe network. Apparently.
  13. DaveAF
    Its boiler breakdown and controls repair cover. The boiler is 15 years old.
  14. DaveAF
    Hello. Our gas boiler insurer no longer covers our terraced home heating system because the gas pipe running from our meter to the kitchen is steel. It runs under our wooden ground floor and its length is about 15 feet with another couple of feet for the angled bits around the meter. Would having this steel pipework replaced with copper be very expensive? Our house is a 1930s terraced build. Please see the pictures. The last picture shows the gas pioework where it enters the kitchen and splits to the gas hob and the boiler. We have an option not to replace the pipe and get insurance with another insurer who dosent exclude steel pipework. The difference between the 2 insurers policies is £170 and £565. Any thoughts are very welcome. Thanks David
  15. DaveAF
    Yes I suspected that the problem might move on to the next coldest spot. I've added 2 pictures. One shows our 2 windows. The second shows a neighbours bay roof which is similar but the picture is taken from higher up so that the roof itself is visible. The walls to the sides of the bay window are twice the thickness of the wall below it. I'm unsure if that means there's a cavity or not. I'm uncertain if the property had cavity insulation put in before we bought it 15 years ago. The roof just above the bay window is flat and felted and from memory has, at most, 1 inch of white polystyrene foam sheet placed on the plasterboard. No vapour barrier on the plasterboard nor foam sheet. I guess that to add more would involve removing at least one section of the plasterboard ceiling? My final questions are what thickness (and type) of insulated plasterboard would be required to make my bay window wall warmer and what thickness would insulate the roof better? Could the same type work in both situations? Sorry thats 3 questions. Any thoughts are much appreciated. David
  16. DaveAF
    Thanks. I've literally spent hours in the front garden with binoculars in the rain scanning the windows trying to find the leaks. The neighbours must think I'm dotty. The possible condensation cause just struck me yesterday. So to make the single brick wall less cold would fitting insulated plasterboard be a way forward? Any thickness recommendations?
  17. DaveAF
    Science! Wow. Thanks so much
  18. DaveAF
    Hello. We have a first floor bay window that sits on a brick wall that is 1 brick deep with render on the outside. The render had a few vertical cracks which were repaired and the outside of the house was repainted a couple of years ago. Please see the photos. In the middle of the bay window is a long radiator. On the wall beneath the window cill there is damp on the left side where the cill touches the side wall and this damp continues across most of the bay under the cill. There is no dampness on the side walls above where the window cill touches them. There is also white mould on the wallpaper. Where wallpaper has been removed for photos the plaster is cracked and discoloured. Two questions - 1. Could this dampness be due to condensation? 2. Will replastering the wall then insulating it cure the problem? All thoughts welcome. David.
  19. DaveAF
    Did what you said. Water from the flush going past the rodding point at speed. Looks like there's no blockage after all. Thanks.
  20. DaveAF
    Thanks for that. One more question about this. I'll admit that I've got the idea of the pipe having a partial blockage on the brain but if there were a partial blockage would there be signs of that? Such as the loo, bath and upstairs and downstairs sinks, dishwasher and washing machine all emptying really slowly? Everything seems to empty normally.
  21. DaveAF
    Hello. We had an extension built 14 years ago and the soil pipe from the loo and bathroom was re-routed through the extension roof. The loo is behind the window in the first photo. The bath/shower is to its right. I've noticed we often have water seepage from where the air pipe joins the boxed in soil pipe. At the moment there is a frozen stream of ice in that area. See photos. We have no history of loo blockages or slow drainage of the bath. Is the drained water backing up in the soil pipe? If we needed to get someone to investigate would the pipe have to be unboxed? Any thoughts appreciated.
  22. DaveAF
    Can you recommend a decent flexible PU sealant to fill the gap under my bay window?
  23. DaveAF
    Is posting text, images and editing posts best done on a desktop computer rather than a mobile device?
  24. DaveAF
    File size is 1.50mb. I select 3 from my files but they dont upload. Accompanying post text does upload.
  25. DaveAF
    Pictures upload not working.
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