Digmixfill

Done some today. I think i've found something that foam doesn't completely stick to! It's grabbing well enough to keep it in place though, so good enough for me. Cleaned and wetted the wall, foam to back of PE and then propped a plank up with blocks and wedges.

Excellent news. ? I've already got the soudal low expanding foam and gun. It's ability to stick to everything whether needed or not gave me the thought that it might work for the PE foam. Wetting will be covered, I was planning on spraying the substrate with water to remove the dust and whatnot beforehand. Did you leave the foam to go off for a few minutes before sticking your boards? Which spray contact adhesive did you utilise for the DPM in the reveal? I can see that being useful later on. Those coat hangers are, umm, novel.

I'm at the point where i need to stick PE expansion foam around the perimeter ready for the DPM and base slab. I've got a few places where it will cover rough edged bricks and some broken concrete edges, so probably going to be a pain to adhere to. Will low expanding foam be suitable for sticking the PE foam in place or am i going to need to buy something specific for the job?

I'm just as bad. For some reason i don't get alerts for posts, so i don't check the site as often as i should... I've got something similar along one wall where the underpinning is a bit high. I'm of the same mind, but when i enquired with building control about increasing insulation by dropping the thickness of hardcore & lower slab they didn't offer changing the blinding layer, or even comment on it. I've done nearly 40sqm so far. That's roughly half way. If it is to change it's now or never.

I'm sure it varies by sand type, but in my case it's compressing by about 1/5th in height.

@Onoff Is that a concrete edge to the top and right of that room? If it is, did you EPS that also? I don't think i can subtract any EPS blinding from my total. There's another slab before my floor insulation. I have a picture here showing construction. floor construction The hardcore and lower slab are now 100mm and the insulation is 200mm.

Fortunately i've not got anything to worry about movement wise. All the internal perimeter base blocks are solid concrete and they're filled between them and the 9 inch external walls. Three internal walls are 9 inch load bearing too. I don't think i've been too enthusiastic. Six passes with the plate have so far compacted the mot1 sufficiently. My plans have 50mm, but I'm more than happy to barrow less :) 25mm EPS is i nice idea, but the prices i have for 8ft boards make it much more expensive than sand. a LOT less barrowing though!

I've started to barrow in the hardcore for my floors, and very pleasing it is too to finally see something other than dirt 130mm is whacking down nicely to 100mm. I don't seem to be able to turn up any info on sand compaction. How much sand do i need to put down to have a 50mm layer after compacting?

The only thing i've come up with so far that might help is to cut out slots in the brickwork to reduce the size of the bridge. Just had a quick look through the details in the pdfs and didn't spot anything. The pdfs themselves are useful though

The existing 9 inch solid brickwork on our building has two walls that form what will be our hallway. If i build to the drawings i'll build the cavity wall up to these and leave the cold bridges in place. Anyone have suggestions for these that i can think about?

Having the opening wider and trued up with plasterboard make sense. ? As i've got 9inch external leaf i'm hoping to attach to the external. I can decide which way to fix when offering the frames up.

I'm starting to look at putting blocks up above dpc and some of the openings i'm lining up with are anything but true vertically. Concave, convex and slanted are all in the mix. How best to align the sides of new opening with the old? I've considered the widest point, the narrowest point and the distance between the average of each side so far.

Had a conversation with a BCO today. Insistent that the lower slab stays but i can reduce it and the hardcore to get double the insulation in. :)

Thank you :) The plans for this where put together prior to the 2010 regs. I've already dug out enough to have 100mm insulation, so it is slightly better. I'm close to putting the hardcore down, so if things are to change in the floor now is the time. I'd be more than happy to replace the lower slab with 150mm of insulation if building control are ok with it. I like the idea of a thicker screed. I can always bring the heat on earlier if it's slow to respond.

Hello everyone. I have a soil pipe that runs from a chamber outside, through the foundations and across the ground under the hardcore to a downstairs bathroom. I think I'm going to have to feed the bath waste into a floor level manifold beside the toilet outlet to get a drop. I've looked at a couple of manifolds that are similar to the image attached. Some recess the body into the screed, some sit atop but all seem to have a similar length outlet to connect to the soil pipe. I've not come across any details yet on the depth to terminate the long radius bend in the floor to accommodate these manifolds. Any pointers/ideas welcomed.

The things that bother me about the Kensa information are a) 5C as a trigger point to activate the system seems awfully high, it would run the system on many days here. b) activating the the entire system seems wasteful if there is no call for heat. @PeterW your choice of 1C activation temperature is much more sensible.

The circulation pump agitating the water for a short time sounds sensible enough. The Kensa information i received was "The heat pump is extremely robust, what isnt, is the water within the machine on the heating side, if the heating is off because its the middle of the night and the temp drops below 5°C the frost stat will override the programmer an switch on the heating system to stop it freezing" If that information came from a reseller or installer i'd just assume they were talking bobbins but the information was from Kensa themselves. I did ask in a reply why that should be the case if all liquids had antifreeze but never got any further response.

I'm nowhere near needing to purchase my GSHP yet, but I am at the point where I need to decide where it will live. Ideally it will be in its own weather proof hut on the outside of the building. Whilst mulling things over earlier I remembered something that was mentioned a while ago by a chap a Kensa. The chap said that the Evo could be housed externally but it would require a frost stat that would turn on the heat pump to prevent freezing if the outside temperature dropped below 5C. Having looked inside an older Kensa GSHP I couldn't see anything that would require frost prevention. The control PCB was conformally coated and all of the liquids contained antifreeze. Does anyone here have their heat pump housed externally and do you have a frost stat for < 5C?

You have a PM

ACS are still in business :) Thanks for the details I'll drop them an email and see what they can offer for the longer ties I'll need. I'm going with the resin filled hole for the ties. I've done a few so far and they don't seem too much hassle.

Thanks for checking this. My Following preferences for the thread are at the top of the page not the bottom, and it would seem that I am the incognito follower Other settings are set to send email when new content is posted I've checked my mail server logs and there doesn't appear to be any delivery attempt from anything that has buildhub in it's FQDN.

Only just spotted the update to this thread. I'm still not sure why i don't get email alerts for posts I ended up walking around the building with a 12ft 2x4 and a laser level. Found all the low and high spots and ended up doing what you have described. Two rooms are up to DPC level and the height level change bit is almost up to the top DPC level. Just a couple of beams and block to sort to finish the height change. Where did you get you ties made up? And did you opt for beads to fill your irregular cavities?

Our floor detail has been drawn up with the concrete, insulation and UFH + screed all above the DPM. This particular wall has to be completed before the other walls in this room can be dealt with, It's part of a height change in the room. Thanks for the idea of downstanding the DPC into the rooms. That might be useful for the main event. Did you tape over the overlap or butt joint with tape over?

My DPM is under the concrete base slab. The wall to DPC is 225mm higher that the top of the base slab. Insulation and UFH screen take things up to the DPC height from the top of the base slab.

I've got a 9 inch wall that i have to place a DPC on and a DPM that i need to trim and lap under the DPC. My google fu has failed. Anyone have a handy hint on how to hold the DPM against the wall, and on top of the wall whilst i lay the DPC and blocks?