Inchbyinch

I think I might have found one on an Italian site, look like the one? cheers for all the help on these, it's a mine field but very easy to navigate if you follow some good foot steps!! https://www.climamarket.it/vendita/termostato-programmabile-per-pompe-di-calore-carrier

Is the command controller The same as the diagnostic box?

@Alphonsox @joe90 do you have the contact details of the people you got those controllers off. Quick google doens't throw up any results for Courier UK or their equivalent. I searche for courier UK heat pumps with all sorts of exclusives and stuff but no results on the first four pages. In the media industry they say the best place to bury a crime is on the second page of google....

Am i correct in saying these kingspan units are rebadged couriers? I'm thinking of taking one of those kingspans.....looks very much like they were very poorly specified and probably designed to act like a boiler....there simply not good at that. @JSHarris Are the controllers for that freely available? I remember you saying that they would be near on imposssible to manipulate without them.

we have just laid a passive slab tied into a warm retaining wall with EPS behind it. your detail looks fine as you have DPC/radon up the land side of the EPS so as to create a vertical water barrier. put in a good drain and your laughing

Thanks Nick, as ever a wealth of information. Ed

Thanks again, I've run the Hot and cold downstairs in the 16mm already so I'll prob have to stick with it now but looks like I'll have to buy a load of reducers and they are not cheap. TBH I was given a bum steer by my supplier, he recommended the 16mm as a better product and better for manifolding (his manifold). Ah well if I knew it all I'd be a plumber, and I'm not. ? Thanks again for the replies, i take it then it's not the end of the world but probably a headache or two.

Thanks Pete. I'd say that's our solution alright. Now to try and get a handy ASHP. eBay here I come.

Thanks Jeremy, Yes it sounds almost too simple to work. Is once a month for a "sanitary" clean good enough and is 500L UVC enough do you think. We have a young family and hot water can be in demand but not always.

Joe/Jeremy, Is the in line stieble the best option for "boosting" the water? water at 40 + 5 deg @ 10-14l per minute would give a demand of 4.9 kw which means you could run two showers at the same time off a 12kw unit? An immersion would then boost to 65 once a month or so? This sound like the correct solution? I'm thinking a 500l UVC for hot water. no Solar Thanks Ed

Hi All, More questions I'm afraid. I'm going down the route of a manifold water distribution system. I'm using the 16mm PERT-a_Pert pipe as I'm running the pipe in the concrete passive slab and it will withstand a bit more abuse when going in. Also it was recommended by the supplier as being better. I'm presuming that I will need to use a 16->15mm reducer every where I connect on to bathroom fittings etc. as almost all fittings I'm looking at buying have 15mm connectors. Thoughts appreciated. Feel free to question my sanity as I'm doing it quite a bit myself these days anyway Thanks, Ed

Hi All, Has anyone come across these? I'm close on ordering them....the are quite competitive (cheaper than Munster by about 15%), good U=value of c. 0.85 but not their passive thermax which would go to 0.76 overall. There is a lift and slide door included and also an extremely large window, 4.2m x 2.6m, which they are very confident on but I'm not so sure. SWMBO is very keen on the large window as it captures a spectacular view without any interruption. My concerns are around the longevity of such a large window? any thoughts? Also what sort of airtightness compromises should I expect with a large lift and slide? Thanks as ever, Ed A tired and weary man from Cork Ireland

Soon after the pressure was north of 6 Bar so we left it off....no leaks thankfully!!

Well after much sweating this morning and wondering how I was going to fix my leak....the pressure was 3.4 Bar this afternoon with no intervention taken. It is quite a balmy afternoon here today so I guess it is all down to temperature. it was some job trying to get the pipe in between all that re bar in the retaining wall. And the spacing question was answered for me as 200 was as good as it was going to get. Thanks for all the advice, super!! Ed

Thanks Guys, I'll up the pressure again later on. The pipes coming out of the ground are the water distribution pipes. I ran them in insulated 16mm pert-al-pert as well. They are not pressure tested but ran under ground to rise in the walls as they go up, saves chasing after. If there is a problem we will run alternates in the roof space. we used the mains pressure to test, just shy of 3 Bar. Also have pressure tester that arrived late so could jack it up further if needed. rgds, ed

Hi all, Making progress, I've a pic attached of the pour in action. however after the pour I have a pressure drop in the system we have gone from 2.8 to 2.2 over 24 hours. Do I have a leak?

I'm in the same boat but I'm going with 215inner and 100 outer leaf. I'm thinking of qwik fix which are about €1.60 ex VAT. Www.killeshal.com any one experience with these?

Hi All, We are building a passive slab which ties into a warm retaining wall. The footing for the retaining wall is 200mm thick and takes up about 60m2 out of 140m2 and I'm wondering about the UFH spacing on a slab in this area. I'm thinking 200mm, the same as everywhere else. Will I just be heating up the slab? Also I'm looking to clip the UFH in under the rebar, has anyone ever done this before and any advice. If the zones are crossing two rooms can you run the UFH under a supporting wall? Is there a way to calculate the heat output of an UFH circuit? thanks again, ed

I opted out of the official building control regs so I don't need all that certification. While the process itself ensures buildings are built right, it does seem to be a sledge hammer to crack a walnut approach. Completely dependent on engineers and builders to insure buildings. I have no bother with that if you can afford it but it does cost and I would estimate about 10-13% of your build

As ever it's great to have this team of great people in one place. I'm not convinced I will require cooling but I don't think we will need a lot of heating and I think it will require a low running temp which suggests to me that the best operation is 2 port valve as out lined by Jeremy, Wilo pump as outlined by yourself. Thanks again Ed

Thanks, I think I'll go wilo standard as it sounds like the option that fits best. We will have a very low energy requirement and it sounds like I'll have as much cooling as I will heating!

Pete, I'm about 12 miles west of the city on the road to Killarney, if ever the urge calls feel free to pop out for a cuppa but bring overalls??

And thanks for getting back so quick

I was thinking more about the thermo valve v the 3 way mixer on the wt site

Hi I was just wondering is there a benfit to getting the premium pump set as opposed to the standard? Diff of about £30-40 thanks ed