zoothorn

@nod I mean I was wondering if there's any reason I can't just use this.. if I only need a 'decent' finish & not neccessarily needing a 'super-pro-finish'. It surely would save some money.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-ready-mixed-plaster-white-10kg/23226?tc=AA4&ds_kid=92700052136022990&ds_rl=1249407&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJHI0tGD6gIVVeDtCh0sGAO8EAQYAyABEgLN1vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ok thanks. Is the idea here to use a bag of powder, & mix it? or for my 2 rooms (smallish extention: so only 6 walls = 25 seams to fill).. is it better to think of a ready-mix tub? I don't have a mixer thing that goes on a drill driver. Is there not one product that can do both "joint filler" and "joint cement" ? I don't really want 3/4 of a heavy bag to have to bin. Ive no idea what sort of volume of X I will need.

RHS diagonal support 3x3 done, turbo bolted & seems good support for this side. What's the idea with scaffold boards.. put them across (like the working two are at the mo), with a 5mm gap between.. & cut off flush with edge of my base frame? I guess then I need a handrail around 2 sides: LHS not needed as you step onto deck from here. Thanks- zH

Aha I think I get it. Btm is fine & strongest join if resting on the galv. So the top join: just nip a 45* bit off the top, & BFO screw into the outer looong RH beam, just inside nearest front? so no need to notch it/ join onto the front section-? I was thinking this front 'tagged-on' section not perhaps the strongest bit to apply this posts' weight onto + outwards. Still think 3x3 ok? Onoff thinks 6x3.. but maybe just due to better look/ matching my 6x6 pillars. This stream side not seen tbh.

I wish.. no. We had a heron many years ago, but its not really big enough for even tiddlers. Its such a haven for birds in this 'bowl' me & my gardens-join-at-hip n'bors have here (nice! been here 1 yr).. you don't need boxes. Nuthatches closet thing, in my birdy world. Dig the sketch, as always- wish I could sketch-draw like that (& I did a fine art degree!). Can't quite figure out the 'two' 6x3 bolted together tho. I get the way the low end of diag post joins/ resting on the galv top, & I think the top end joins just within the outside RH 6x3 'frame' (so if I had a 3x3 coming up from the inner side of my 6x6.. it'd join nicely in a line) & with a notch cut in top-? Will you allow me to use 3x3 or get in a flap at me for being a f&cktard?

Aha ok got it. I didn't know all pB joints were taped, thought just TE's. Ok will get some orange stuff.. I guess do my TE board walls with it 1st if its 90 flippin metres. While you're there nod: after tape, what stuff would you suggest I use to fill my wall taper edges? I don't have a mix thingy so ready-made maybe.. if it exists. Thanks- zoot.

Ok. Understood. Now/ so what's the deal I wonder. Is it used -only- because I have taper-edge ceiling boards-? or, is it used on all types of ceiling boards? if so should the builder have taped the boards he did, having boarded my ceiling (straight edge upstairs)? is it something I expect the "skimmer" to provide? Alot of implications from two words.. as seems always to be the case trying to understand/ doing the exhaustive prep for any building work job.

Ok thanks will source on monday. The fibre tape you mention: is this for use on the ceiling? &, the same I'd use on my taper-edge boarded walls? (the ceiling is taper-edge boards.. but I think no issue for a 'skimmer' compared to std board edges. I see this stuff.. alarmingly orange: https://www.toolstation.com/gyproc-fibatape-xtreme-plasterboard-joint-tape/p58759?store=KC&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpPjg1oT96QIVA7DtCh2GngP-EAQYAiABEgIud_D_BwE#reviewTab

@Onoff spot on idea then! must admit I didn't know at the time what these two wee lines were (or could read yr words 'brace if rqd' either) until you've just pointed them out tho. Good that's a fine plan.. just how to attatch my 3x3 at each end to consider on the long RHS one. How about for the short vertical LH cnr.. dig hole say 6" wide x 6"deep, attatch 3x3 to cnr going down into me 'ole, fill ole with postcrete -? Yes names I'm considering are as said The Cambrian Alpine Chalet, or possibly 'F&ckwit's Shed'. I'm really torn between the two.

Hi nod- so is it just 'plaster' I need.. anything more specific? I have accounts at jewson & TP, so once I know what I need I can crack on & source it. fingers x'd. I got wallboard in 1 week, altho the dearer soundbloc stuff available only/ all else gone.

Hi T-B-Cup I'm sure so.. its rural wild west wales compared to SE england. It might be more efficient, but if I source it & say 'I have it ready'.. it spurs the job on: otherwise it'll likely get shoved down their list. Plus I'm fairly sure me sourcing it, was the suggestion: it was a 5min look/ quote situation.. but I need to grab the opprtunity by buying it ready for them to do, I'm sure, especially before wales unlocks & they're deluged with work.

Ok so 5 bags. One ceiling yes has a 2ft side slope area/ collar whatnot, which (I get what you're saying) will need a bit more faff & plaster. Thanks.

Ok understood. So skim is the 'quick/ cheaper' way of finishing my ceiling then. Just needed confirmation/ assumed so. My builder chap (who'll get two younger guys to do it), seemed to suggest me getting the stuff you see. IE £260 + plaster (& bloody hard to source too now he said). I don't mind trawling if it means getting the job done soon, not waiting 7 weeks if they get the stuff you see. Not my regular extention builder this chap, but a smaller/ decent local guy Ive met before.

That's a great idea.. using the concrete cabin corner pad: so a big diagonal strut for the big-slope RHS? I don't have room to do this on the 'higher' (LHS) corner, so, I think you must be referring to the big-drop RHS when you say 'higher edge'? RHS when you look at My Cambrian Alpine Chalet from the front I mean.

Good suggestions @Onoff . No I didn't want to hear the word 'concrete'! I'm certain, having put all my weight on the deck on a step ladder without worry, only a tiny bit of 'down' bend of the deck.. that I only really need 'helping' support posts as an extra safety aspect. Not a full-on concrete base one.. I just can't afford tbh. I could even shove X between the upper corner, only being 1ft here. So let's say its just one, the RHS lower-slope deck corner needing a post 'aid'. Do you think a metal 3x3 shoe with spike on, hammered into ground, cut the top of post off flush > push under > & bracket-fix it to deck cnr? (I had this in mind.. but wondering if its a good enough idea, &/ or anything else simple ~similar tbh). thanks- zH

G'day chaps. I've got a quote (£130 each) for my two boarded ceilings to be skimmed. Seems good to me. I was told getting hold of the plaster is the tricky bit right now tho: assuming I have to get it, how do I determine how much to order? both 3.8m x 4m. Also, is the term to "skim" different from "plastering" a ceiling? or is 'to skim' just an abreviation (& they're exactly the same process) ? cheers zH.

The "Cambrian Alpine Chalet" is weatherproof/ felted. So now just the deck area @ front. Scaffold boards: is this the cheapest way? I have 2 old ones, but not long enough to do 2 rows. Are new ones treated, or just left to weather? Their weight if I use these, I think I need support pillars on the front 2 corners (its a cantelevered deck at the mo). Any advice on how to add pillars? I have 3x3 tannalised post timber.. best I use, if suitable. Thanks, zoot.

The old wall with render on, LHS in 2nd pic/ one I joined wiggly scribed board onto.. is it feasable to sandblast this to reveal the stonework?

Hi Onoff thanks I didn't see this info (googling & YT clips before asking felt Q's)- very clear diagram. Ive seen as many clips of non use of the bitchumin adhesive (just a 15cm overlap & maybe doubling up of no. of nails on the top of the join) as with it: is it a must to use this stuff? The reason I wonder whether my method of two strips instead of this diagram, is to do this ^ way means cutting lengthways along my TWO 3.4m lengths (very easy to tear mine), to get two 60cm W strips, to cover each side > to then use one of the 40cm offcuts as a ridge piece = more work, & extra excess, for only 1 thickness of felt @ tip-top ridge. It seems.

Does anyone know what I do here. I have my two outer sides of my roof L & R felted, a lip nailed on around etc. So my ridge area, yet to be felted, is 1m wide. 50 cm each side. How do I cover this area? I was going to put two 1m sections on each 50 cm (with a 15cm overlap etc = 65cm), the latter one just whacked on with a huge overlap over the 1st so the ridge actually has two layers on/ easiest way surely.. & nail it on. But is this 'wrong'? shouldn't each side have symettrical felt with a ridge piece along or something or is this just for cosmetics?

Hi Andy, yes I resorted to cutting RHS of board down (I've only -ever- found it difficult to conceive trying to do the wiggle L whilst still keeping the taper @ R: the wrong assumption was I couldn't understand how to do the L edge!). Its not a great join.. but will have to do. The wiggle L went fine/ jigsawed, but the R edge was always the problem to get dead-on (especially having only 15mm of stud to hit: THIS is where I was stuck on!!).. & I couldn't in fact: its a bit of a mess here so will need attn later. Thanks for help anyway chaps. zoot

Right got my osb top on. Now felting. Any tips? or is it just a case of 4 strips (of 1m W), put a 6" overhang (gutter area) & 1st fasten a row 1" from felt edge along midpoint of roof L side, then pull down over gutter side & fix along edge. Repeat R side. Two ridge strips of 1m will be excessive, but better this than cutting one to 0.5m width maybe-? I got my work cut out stream side, I gotta reach over roof edge @ tippy top of ladder. I think a cricket helmet. Might take my bat up. Musical interlude before last stages.. thanks

No you're not getting it- the LH taper edge (L side to scribe) is n/a.. because I have a ~40cm W piece here so the board will be cut off far before the taper this side. Its the R taper edge I'm talking about, afaict that bodges up the scribe suggestions.

" If you don't understand this you must be the thickest c*** ever! " Aww.. thanks. @Onoff look, your sketch is ace but doesn't include two factors: the board to the RHS of the one to scribe, is a full TE board & already in place. I asked about this & it was suggested I put the full boards in > then add the side offcuts. The 2nd is the fact that my board to scribe is taper-edge (on its R edge), meaning I can't just scribe the wiggle-line on > & cut its R edge down to suit like I could a SE board. So I have to transfer the wiggle-line from where its drawn rightwards & by a precise ammount: far more difficult a prospect (& I havent established how yet) to a p'easy SE board. No? Hence my Q. It is valid.

Mods- perhaps we can remove the personal insult posts-? @Onoff the scribing suggestions (your direct measure method not inc) are perfectly easily understood & done.. with a straight edge board. Not so easily with a TE board. Unless I'm mistaken.. in which case it would be kinder to explain how I'm wrong, rather than throws at insult me. Is the TE board edge (IE opposite to the scribed edge) as far as I can see complicating the suggestions, not a reasonable point then? Thanks.