zoothorn

1st thing I need to establish, is how on earth to make totally sure winter or summer, that this dreaded noise does -not- occur at night. at all. If I can't then I'll have to uninstall the whole thing: 'on' & the sound is not conjusive to live with next bedroom on, let alone using the bedroom the boiler's in, if it springs into action even the occasional 5mins anytime overnight. I was not told anything about any inside noise, only the outside unit noise (an unintrusive gentle hum in comparison). This is dissapointing, & a big problem I don't suppose rockwool & soundbloc pB boxing in will fix, if the noise continues on from the boiler > via a series of 22 & 15mm pipes on the bedroom wall > to cylinder (in corner cupboard).

Hi ProDave- sorry I forgot I replied with my update of it just installed, to my ASHP thread of last year! Its a Vaillant arotherm 7.5kW. Split? I'm not sure, but it does rads + dhw. Nothing else. What I have is the big mo-fo fan box outside, & two stiff copper 12mm ish pipes (clad in white thermo blanket stuff) just flexible enough to bend into a 3ft coil next to the fan unit, & then up my outside wall > bend inwards into big hole drilled > into upstairs cupboard new vaillant boiler. They make quite a droning juddering noise when 'on', pressure inside or s'thing. Sorry photos are n/a. cam impossible. Oddly the installer chap came back (due to an odd error code on control unit, but he can't shift it) establishing all actually running fine despite error.. so did a rads full heat test. Bar a wee leak (coming back again with some rockwool- kindly to try tamp the white pipe noise) running well. Hot water is fab. Lastly he reset control back to some sort of default setting I guess, 1st asking if I wanted rads on (no), only thing I saw was him dialling temp down to 5.0*C so rads all off (got the gist of the dial, to do this much). And since then.. its all been -blissfully- quiet & Ive not once heard the fanny mo-fo on, once.. so no night noise/ no pipes in action at all. I don't understand.. but dare not even look at it in case I wake it up & it gurgles & judders & makes fk knows what noises. Im terrified of it. Apart from -jesus the flamin coincidence- right now.. when its made the 1st 'on' droning fan-on > pipe-pressure annoying noise since he left on thursday. 5 mins only tho. Its a prominently, intrusively annoying drone. I will not handle it if it does this constantly with rads on.. I'll have no choice but turn it off (If I'm able).

Yes thanks Temp. Its just that I got ideal info on here, with the 5-in-1 tool recommended.. just I cannot locate it so simply asking the Q again. forget it.

Hi Onoff. I have no idea what's meant by this post, or the doors link/ or photo thats nothing to do with me, or DG glass afaict. totally flummoxed by this. Can't you just offer a tiny bit of advice rather than veiled obscure references that only confuse-? (or is to confuse me the sole point-? is there something Im meant to see in this photo/ wtf??) I'm only asking again bc I cannot locate the info before.

Hi all. I did get advice on here before re. this.. but somewhere within a separate thread & I cannae find the info. Could s'one just remind me of beading removal? std white upvc frames, need to replace a few 'opening-out' sections of DG glass. I have a Harris 5-in-one paint roller remover tool thing, scraper at end. Thanks alot- zoot.

Well if the bigass ~10mm thick copper pipe wrapped in 50mm white insulation are what you're referring to as 'flexi' (I cant tbh call them as such, bc theyre stiff) then yes. Bloody system I wake up & boiler is 'errrring' away / a new noise, not the pipes, so much i can hear it in kitchen with door closed. Bed2 is totally unuseable to sleep in.

Update: just had a week of mayhem & all installed. Some teething probs, an error code glitch, but hot water running well. All room double rads in, bathroom tiny so only a towel rail possible.. so I have a nice chrome one in. Excellent work, considerate pipe positioning, highly pro service by a young team going hammer & tongs. Old tank & all old pipework removed for me too. Ive just a full heat test of rads.. & the error glitch done, this week. My impressions are this: bigass heavy outside unit is very quiet (& makes a nice air-con cold fan.. why this isn't utilised, is weird). The bigass pipes that run from it tho > into house > into boiler (an extra wall-mounted unit to the cylinder approx fender twin reverb size) makes a vibrating hummm when pump's on: annoyingly audible inside: mostly in bed2 but also stairwell & 1/2 of downstairs main room.. so my bedroom2 I'd think hard to sleep in: a problem needs addressing with sound dampening. Urgh. Big rads: the system not designed for high rad temps, so bigger rads needed. German Vaillant hardware good. Very complicated system: an outside digi-thermometer guages/ monitors temp & adjust system accordingly. Urgh. And ontop of this, a dread-inducing digital controller-readout thing I'm meant to use to set abc, is so complicated (& german-translated-english hard to understand alot of manual) that I doubt I'll be able to use it to put a few rads on for the typical 2-hour early AM & mid PM slots!! (& seems alot to go wrong too). Alot of work for me to do: to reconfig airing cupboard woodwork & remake new door (cylinder sticks out), alot of pipework boxing to do, alot of big 10x5" holes in pB & woodwork to fill (& mouse-proof) made by new piping.. & significant sound-proofing work to do around boiler/ big inlet pipes from outside unit. Some carpet damage, & lawn damage. zoot.

Sounds like mine or thereabouts. Just had a week of mayhem & its installed.. I'll do a thread on it as its a complicated system.

@Onoff that looks great- I'd love to have mine a bity more rustic. very characterful. No- I just avoid the pointy stepping up onto deck, thankfully. Deck is 'stained' as is/ tho only 2x coats of nononsense water based stuff, clear. Its fine tbh/ will weather & darken a bit. No side rail- may do next year just stream side. Cheers PeterW- yes hugely proud, the idea of buying this s/h & rebuilding it.. with sections stored over the shop in my house & under a leaky tarp 6 months, I never thought I'd get it up let alone looking this good.. thought it might be a write-off stupid idea. cheers- zoot.

Yes.. so far as I can tell: I've asked many times Q's like "pls tell me, any hidden costs/ stings/ any install costs to me other than running costs of it-?" : Ive asked this to the surveyor who came for evaluation/ measuring, the main chap at office, the plumber whose doing majority of fitting (& even removing old tank too). And answer's been a firm no- nothing at all. And all prior govt paperwork concurs 'good news.. you are eligible for fully funded blah etc etc'. It does seem too good to be true tho, but I can't do anymore than I have to establish that it is, all foc.. & therefore grab the opportunity. Even my two new rooms here each will have a new big rad in, & the bathroom fitting a water-filled towel rail rad (cos its too diddy to get their smallest W rad in).

@PeterW & @Onoff Pretty much finished.. just got to renew two diddy windows, colour darker than usual due to existing surface of logs.. but seems to have turned out fine, a sort of antiquey look maybe. Hugely appreciate the help from all on this project- couldn't have worked out better. zoot.

@Onoff ok I misunderstood your photo I think.. nevermind followed your plan more or less, & filled with foam then general plaster/ it won't be super smooth multi finish (my bag went off super quick/ one lump/ unuseable) but it'll do, esp for a workshop. Actually my hook idea was pretty nifty if I may say! hanging a full can of paint from it, mmm perhaps wasn't! had my eyes closed opening door this Am. Progress pics. I got a C heating system instal next week.. so needed to get cracking painting (one big rad in each room below window). Air source heat pump, Vaillant/ 8 rads inc towel rail for my diddy 1.5 x 1.5 bathroom.. all foc/ amazing. I just thought tho, whether I've jumped the gun on the BCO on this front.. but had no choice, the Co said they had only next week suddenly to install it. thanks- zoot

Its ok Peter- thanks, just got the batten in & paint can hanging off a hook in its midpoint/ setting overnight/ looks ok. fix round in tmrw. I just couldn't feed/ fettle it around to get it in yourway.. so done in 2 stages ~ like Onoff's idea just glue & weight instead of screws to fix batten. Faff sorted. thanks chaps. g'night.

Right I got a plan with a hook & weight. only way I can think to glue batten in with 2 good ears > glue in round/ stick pushing up to set. LE foam for glue I don't have other. jesus this has made my head hurt. thanks- zH

You have said to put a bit of batten 'across the hole'.. but Onoff how can I fix this without access to the top side?! (your photo eg shows a pov from the battenside/ topside I can't access). Peter suggested a different idea, attatching the round to a bit of batten / passing it all up & pulling down to fix.. but I cannot get the damn thing in. So its perhaps just a bit of clarity is all I'm asking: why on earth is it so hard for you to divulge?? you say 'Ive told you' but not enough that I can understand that's all. ----- The round area must have a 'back' for the filler to push against (fine on the area of the batten.. but either side of this-?) or it'll just squidge up/ out. And what type of 'filler' you had in mind Ive no idea (polyfiller? foam? gun/ silicone stuff? thistle bonding?).

Onoff if I can't understand something I ask. That's the -opposite- of wasting my time (& if it takes a jiffy for you to help then that too is the -opposite- of wasting time). If I have just 0.75cm pulling down (not 1.5cm if the round has to be pulled back to be centred).. the pressure is too much on a tiny area of pB. It must have a 2nd ear of decent length. Its just how to get it in. If you know, please why not just say instead of moaning at me-? I also cannot understand if I get the round in, how I fill the 'round' area either side of the batten.

Hi Peter- maybe you can help. I'm following exactly the steps suggested here, but I cannot feed it into the cavity without one ear being only a paltry 1.5cm (any longer.. & it won't all go up in the cavity). Once I centre the round, this equates to just 0.75 cm of "ear" one side to fix to the ceilinginside pB. One "ear" afaict can be any length. But the opposite "ear" can only be tiny, or the whole shebang won't go in. The only way I can see this is possible, is if the batten is fixed 1st > then the 'round' is pushed up & fixed to it, once batten is glued set.

I'm sorry I'm totally lost as to what on earth the suggestion is tho. Hot weather-? (I think this is -the- most mystified I've been on BH yet.. & that's sayin summink). Ok leaving the baking bemusement aside. @Onoff I need go back to the filling of my ceiling 57mm hole/ just about to do.. but I can't work it out. Ok I stick my piece of wood with the 'round' attatched to it, into the hole fine. One 'ear' a good 2" long. But the other ear: to get this in I need to push the round farthest one way to get it in (even diagonally 'upwards' to get the max ammount of other 'ear' in.. but even doing this diagonally 'up' the screw (& the round itself) prevents this ear from being any more than ~ 1.5cm.. & this is my problem. Or am I being stupid/ thinking wrong? surely I need a good 1" of ear each side, on which to glue & pull down (via PeterW's screw in centre of the round) to bond with the ceiling pB. Approx only 0.75cm of ear this one side (once Ive centred the round) will surely not be enough to bond to the ceiling pB one side.

48-3/4 is old. What the fkn dickens is a cream of tartar!! actually cream tart & on, I can't understand a thing tbh! haha. I think you're pulling my plonker & drunk on that strong cider or Onoff-moonshine-?

Hi Peter/ Onoff.. thanks for this info: @Onoff & Peter. Ok great that's a plan then will pv&a 5-1 areas 1st up.. I've left the bonding & multifinish 1/2 bags a couple of weeks now, but poly-bagged & clip-closed. Are they still useable do you think? Only just seen these replies. thx chaps

Can anyone lend advice on tackling these damaged areas L & R of the knock-thru (esp deep ~1" or so on the R) ? thanks, zoot.

My next big job, is to address these old wall areas. The knock-thru 'tunnel' Ive pB'd either side, leaves a good 1" depth to fill in deepest bits where the block is. My plasterererer (& spark) suggested I could perhaps use my 1/2+ bag of Thistle Bonding I got left for it. What do you think? I also got some multifinish left too.. but the old wall (white here) is a pretty rough surface of render + top coat of contoured paint. Last job is to tidy this wall up so I can get signed off & get the room useable/ not quite sure of options for this in the long run: it depends on the winter: if I get huge cold in from this wall (I expect as much).. I might have to consider lining it. But a next year job.

@PeterW thanks for that.. get the general gist, I think. So the added centre screw protrudes, for use solely as a grip thingy to gently pull the round 's ears down squishing its gubbins on the topside of ceiling pB. Is that right? must say hadn't thought of how I'd hold the round- good idea (if I'm on board with your idea). Might use some foam pB adhesive then.

Thanks Roundtuit.. if I get the round in, somehow dead flush & not even 1mm 'up'.. then I only need fill the 3mm circle around it (& the wee hole in middle). So its just a Q of fixing the top bit of timber in. Is your suggestion to fix the timber bit in.. to screw up thru the skimmed pB > & find a predrilled pilot hole? I'm just seeing the damn thing move up & not being able to 'grab' it with a screw, or find the pilot. I'm wondering if using some pB foam adhesive & pulling the timber bit gently down to fix it flush.. but I can only see a some mothers do 'av 'em disaster.

Hi Onoff.. ok get the timber idea. It was already skimmed tho, so not quite as easy a fix-?