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zoothorn

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Everything posted by zoothorn

  1. Yes. Thinking & spieling about it causes me stress. I had to go watch some Joe Pera Talks With You as therapy to calm down. This timer idea though, negates the frost protect mode. Good on the one hand yes,( & what Im doing in effect), but what I need is a replacement system that is QUIET AT NIGHT, it can do wtf at night it wants then, as long as I dont hear it. I had this tantalisingly all sorted, ready to fit, the new 'box' to go near my back door, promises it'll be different, quieter. But now an additional 'tank' ( i really dont care what it is, dont heed to know, as I cant affect whatever the heck it wants to do, it'll do it, whenever the fk it wants too as well IE most likely 2.35 am... Im resigned to this happening), a tank with a dreaded " pump " in & just being told this tank+ pump thing is purely, solely to do with the dreaded ' frost protect mode'.. which just means nightly noise hell... & can only go in one possible place, that is back in the bedroom. So I cant have this. So I cant accept the new replacement system. So i continue to have this horroshow thing to live with. Back at square 1. My 2 year fight I thought won, now utterly lost. Im back to choose between a bit of warmth am ( not much 15* absolute max the warmest room can ever get at 9 am, the other rooms around 13*) & being woken all night without sleep....... or........ freezing cold am, having physically turned it all off 11 pm the night before, but at least being able to sleep. So I have to choose the latter. You see each time I re-switch it on at 7.30 am, I then have to then press 'reset' on the wretched box to get it to fire up again from being fully stone-cold off. So your idea won't work, there is no benefit to what I do now at 7.30 am, as both ways I have to go press reset.
  2. .. so when this company omits to inform me, of a huge extra cylinder (which has a " cycle pump" in & its function bring some connection to this rotten frost protect mode that's ruined my life, just go add insult to injury)... & the only place the f*******g thing can physicslly go........ is back in the spare room cupboard!! My blood has boiled with fury. NO NO NO I willnothsve thiswretched thing bsck in this problem position. Especially if it has ANY bearing on coming active overmight, in this appalling frost protect mode. NO. It may well be, that others' similar tanks ( whatever on earth this damn thing is/ i dont care tbh to know tbh, its just a potential noise monstrosity to me I cannot control ) are quiet as a mouse. But so is their indoor box which doesn't wake them up like mine does. So I can take no comfort, from anyone having a similar tank thing, because of the track record on this frost protect function, which this damn tank apparently has something to do with, being the exact same frost protect mode on the new system!! The only thing I can affect is one thing. Where the damn hardware is relative to bedrooms. To sleeping. Therefore it has to go furthest point away. No other no other no other position. Which I had ready for the new indoor box. Which they agreed to. But told me NOTHING of any additional huge 'tank' hardware, whatsoever, on mibths wirth of calls I made to pore over every detailof this replacement box. Forgrt the outdoor unit, matters not. It is 100% all about - where- this -one- indoor box ( potential noise emitter like the current one is ) is located. Nothing else I can affect. Massive time on this, years no less. I am sick with rage. It has affected my mental health having to deal with them/ this protracted fight month after month, whilst being cold too, whilst being prevented from sleeping, whist racking up £hundreds on calls over 2 years. Just to getthe fkn thing to shut the a(expletive deleted)up! sorry judt need to vent this out. Zh
  3. Hi Joe, if only I could have done this.. I'd have jumped at the idea. When you say ' not on during sleep hours ' I don't know whether you mean use its controls to get it to stop working, or, using the huge mains switch ( which you're never meant to touch ) turn it off here. For the last 2 winters, & the main reason for replacing it ( although infuriatingly, the same frost protect mode is apparently on the replacement system... the difference being only thus; the unit the problem noise eminates from is currently in a cupboard in a bedroom; the replacement system I have made abundantly clear I do not want its indoor box - or anything else whatsoever- sited in the same place.. but only st the furthest point from bedrooms instead) has been my being forced into turning it off -at the big red physical mains switch- each cold day, at 10 pm. This results in the system being shut off entirely/ no electricity into it, until I wake up, freezing cold, then go to red big switch, & turn the whole sodding thing on again. Taking 6 hours to get any heat going. Hopeless. Infuriating. Maddening. Cold. 2 winters like this, my electric rads removed for this design disaster... so I am freezing cold for most of each day, those days being the coldest, because that's when the abysmsl noisy frost protect night infuraition is likely to occur. At 11pm..... on....off...... on... off.... on....off... ad nauseum keeping me awake, until 6.30 am when the heating time is to start. Which at least means this pathetic noise infuriation stops. You cannot live like this. It prevents sleep for the whole time 11 pm to 6.30 am. In a room 3 beds away. So yiu can imagine, woukd have ruined my sin in the next room ( closer to the damn box ), let alone my daughter sleeping in the spare bedroom the box of which is in it's cupboard ( closest to the box ). It is only fate, that thankfully I don't have a son or daughter. But helps my point to explain the awful nature of this intrusion. So when yiu say 'turn it off overnight' I don't know what you mean. Like the way Im forced to do? I doubt you would be doing snything similar, but using the controls to ' turn it off ' instead Id assume you mean Dave does. Which obviously I tried 2 years ago. And the f******g thing just overrides this, comes alive at midnight until 6.30am, ruining my life. The only way I can get it to be quiet, on a cold night, is to turn the whole thing off at the big red power switch, stretching right behind the damn box to find it contorting myself. So angry!!!! But I hsve no choice if I want to sleep. But caveat being... no warmthin house until 6 hours after I turn it on say 7.30 am when I wake, to a freezing cold house.
  4. But the point I was really making was, why if my system presently doesn't have an extra huge 1m x 0.5m tank, should a replacement system have one? Also my other point was, if they'd given me the details of the proposed hardware which didn't include this damn huge extra thing needing to go inside... why is it suddenly appearing as deeming needing to be fitted ? I told them due to the noise of their hardware in the bedroom, under no circumstances will I be having the new box/ anything at all in this bedroom or any bedroom. For obvious reasons. If it has a circulating pump in, & this wretched thing is solely to do with the very overnight frost mode situation that caused me so much grief... then the last place I want it, is anywhere near bedrooms. As then Im in the very same boat again! So proposing I just get them to place it in the very spot, the problem spot, where the old problem unit was... is completely counterintuitive/ redundant as any idea ever was. And being so huge, there is nowhere else in the small cottage it can go, apart from the loft.. which they say is not possible due to maintenance access to it. This damn frost cycle!! The bain of my bloody life.
  5. Hi chaps. After a 1.5 year fight with Vaillant about a dreadful, intrusive noise from a frost protection mode ( emanating from a hydraulic unit box absurdly placed in a bedroom ) during the small hours, a situation Ive outlined on here before, Vaillant accepted the hardware 'flaw ' & finally agreeing to replace the whole system. A huge victory for me, & vindication of my long fighting them ( not any installer ) about a hardware flaw of theirs. Agreed in november. A new installer then to innitiate a visit to oversee the replacement ( another 3 month wait). The replacement: a ' monoblock ' ashp, mine with the problem bedroom ' box' is currently a ' split ' ashp. I have no idea of the difference, but, the choice was carefully chosen by them. So far so good. Huge apologies/ promises my findings passed to German designers no less, to re-design ascociated software. Before they agreed the redo, I had the opportunity to pore over all emailed aspects of the new system info... specifically what the new ' box' is/ how it might differ or similarities/ its size, & where WELL AWAY FROM BEDROOMS it could go. Perfect spot chosen, even a card box made to simulate its size. Once I was promised it wouldn't be as noisy as the one before, & agreed it can be located away from bedrooms, & lastly where I specified I wanted it... THEN I could agree/ give the go ahead/ with thanks etc. All boxes ticked, t's crossed, i's dotted. Diligently, over a year of effort. The installer comes. Need to put a buffer in. A what I say? A buffer. A huge 1000 x 500 extra tank. I had no idea of. I have no clue of. Why if there isn't one now, should there be need for one in a replacement system. Why wasn't I told of this. Q after Q. All my plans scuppered, as I donot have room fir such an extra tank, let alone furious any extra huge hardware vessel should even be needed: the more there are, the more the likelihood of noise, let alone taking up small space I have in a 2 bed up/ 1 down cottage. Ifit could go outside.. unhappy but ok. But it can't. I mean FFS. Can anyone advise? I am furious about this as now ai cant accept/ have the replacement. Vaillant emailing saying I'm lucky they would be paying for the wretched thing. Lastly, to add insult, the bloody thing is to aid the ' frost protect mode' the very damn mode that's caused me all the grief & the year+ fight. Thanks for reading, zoot.
  6. That's generous Onoff thanks. Yes missing out a tile centre back... hmm I think this is the way. You see Im wondering if my alternate idea, using standard thickness tiles (8 mm or so) which I found enough of here & teracotta couloured... might not be suitable from a heat pov. The quarry porch ones Im 1 short of, are much thicker giving me the ideal heat barrier, plus the added height I want too.
  7. Good points, choice as simple as I guess. Ok Ive now got a new idea to make this easier ( annoyingly 1 quarry tile short = a compromised job if I use these). Ive found some 10"sq normal thickness tiles here. Enough to do the hearth top -and- cover the 3x upright faces/ sides. Neat look. So as my timber/ ply frame is solid as heck.. can I just go familiar way, tile adhesive on the ply & grout? Ah just thinking though: Would standard tiles actually be sufficient for a stove hearth-? Thanks zoot.
  8. Great that's a plan, ie no nails & grout.. mind you now can possibly use 4 old terracotta 440mm pavers, but my quarry tiles would look better, a visual link to my stove hearth in main room, & porch too.. but infuriatingly I'm 1 short. Whatever I use, I lastly need to consider how to cover the front 3 timber edges. Im really a little big with the hearth as it is (800 x 800 the back two long sides) so I dont want to add any thickness of ' cladding ' to these 3 edges. I just need to finish off these edges ok enough. Any ideas? Tannalised timber of course. Thx zh
  9. Hi there Onoff. This stuff is a different idea, Ive obviously not heard of it. What I have in mind now, is same tiles as my porch/ 1" thick jobs. Will save me £20 on 4 pave slabs which won't look too nice. Im one short but will have to compromise. A faff of a job grouting etc which I hate. But with new this idea in mind, would it be usual way, tile adhesive/ grout onto the ply? Thanks, zh
  10. Hi John. One nog's a fraction not straight. The shame. But making up for it with a marine ply top! If I go pave slabs ontop, seems likely/ cheapest.. would it be mortar to use on the ply? Fwiw Ive pva sealed the ply top. Thanks zoot.
  11. BC aren't to know about this job/ no need them aware of it. Here's my base..
  12. I understand what your idea is here now/ clever, so the hearth flush with floor. Lino tho so not laminate. If I don't make hearth too big it shouldn't intrude too much, big enough to be safe enough tho. thx zh
  13. Hi ProD, it's lino over the t&g timber flooring. Is that laminate? Im not sure. But easy to take up which is what Ive planned: Ive got my 5x2 timber today, to make my plinth frame tmrw. Ply top then slabs on for a hearth.. will be 7" H or so. Its stupidly low as you can see as it is, so defo needs a step up. Those interior walls btw.. terribly waterstained, so a major effort to get painted like so! Thanks, Zooter
  14. Here's my set up.. so Im thinking a 7" or so plinth/ hearth. You can see how low it is like so! Then its 1450mm to ceiling from stove top.
  15. Hi ProDave, yes bingo! That is exactly my stove.. or the next one up/ but this is an ideal pic to work from. Even the hearth shape: every inch of it matters as will take away from ' living space' already at a minimum. So just like this but raised up I dunno 8" or so. I'll make the timber 'plinth' roughly from my clip example in #1, top it with ply then come back.. a nice but if slate like so though a premium. Looks great though. More likely 'fake slate' pave slabs, tho the contoured top will inevitably mean a wobbly stove to sort out. Fantastic find that... was it somewhere in the facebook ' website' ? ( like you I refuse to jump onboard with social media). Thanks, zoot.
  16. @jamieled great pics thanks Jamie. Small windy smithy stove! I likes the sound of that. Actually lookslike my stove is based on this design. Just a diddy window added. A tad smaller maybe, yours looks to be a 5" flue at a guess? So your idea here, ie far from building regs/ ideal safety parmeters etc, is morelike my thinking tbh. Although taking on board some very good points from Peter & ProDave. So I might go halfway between, pull stove out a bit more. Spurs me on though! Cheers, zH
  17. Good points re. the flue: now I do plan on just going with a single lined 4".. but take your points on board: if it does seem too hot then I'll have to line this adjacent corner behind the flue, as only a short distance to ceiling of maybe 1.4m from the stove. I might just pull the stove out a bit in lieu of what you say here though. I was thinking a simple single lined flue would be useful to add to the heat into the space, over an insulated one. Hard to judge what heat my diddy stove might be capable of throwing out. Thanks zh.
  18. Hi Dave, no sorry that doesn't seem to work (I'm with you re Facebook.. I only joined it to buy the stove: seems websites are a bit oldskool now). Bow Mill Stoves, simple as/ manual.. it's not quite that sort of seller.
  19. Hi there Peter, glad to have your thoughts again. Stone paving is a great idea. So Im thinking make a smaller frame roughly as per my clip, board the top.. & yup some paving slabs ontop. Cheapest way surely. As the cabin's all wood then I guess it's not necessary to have heatproof timber for the frame, maybe glue on some slab slices to cover it to make a plinth, the slab hearth top just overhanging say 2". The flue is only 4", & 2x1m of this is cheap. Its the wider steel roof standoff section, & chinaman hat thing on top the costlier bit, but I don't think too much. I hope it'll be half the stove cost say £120 for the hearth & chimney made & fitted tbh. Thanks, zoot,
  20. This is great info/ I recall you put this pic up before on my cabin build thread. Ideal eg to go onwards from thanks. So approximately this size hearth, the width can be a bit more as its to go in a corner, & say a few inches more fwd. But if I could get it similarly compactly into the adjacent walls, pulled a little further out perhaps.. but as in a corner helping matters.. that should be fine. So I just need to design the timber raised bit, & choose a cost effective but decent enough looking hearth. Slate.. way too expensive. Weight might need consideration: the floor is only a timber t&g affair so can't deal with a huge ammount.. but then if I can stand in the corner then I guess that is weight tested enough. Thanks, zoot
  21. I can only point you to his Facebook page, & the model I have Cadet 2.5kw. https://www.facebook.com/page/1430247350562911/search/?q=Cadet Thanks, zoot
  22. Hi Jamielad, this is basically what I was thinking. The wall shield board is n/ a just for now, this bit is surely the easy bit last. The hearth, or rather raised area below the stove is all I need to consider firstly. Now I have limited space in my small 3 x3 cabin, I can basically just lie down in it a few inches to spare. So I can't have the stove pulled super far out, or, have a super wide hearth. It neeeds to be minimum in size yet sensible enough. And same with distance to the corner/ the stove's position. Can you tell me what your size slate hearth bed is? And do you have any pics of the timberwork under it? Thanks, zoot
  23. Hi ProDave, thanks for this, very sensible which is critical I agree. Thing is there is no such info with the stove, its a tiny 1 man handmade company the only thing I got was details on the baffle plate inserting really. So it's reallya case of looking at photo eg's on his site of customer's own installs & taking approximate dims of H from back walls, material that might consitute a ( raised ) hearth. Better still Id think glean pro info like the clip I put up? thanks zoot
  24. Hi chaps, happy new'ish year to all on BH. I have a diddy 2.5kw stove, to install in my 3x3 log cabin, now the inside painted ( was badly water-stained before): quite a job, took many layers. As stove is so small/ low, I 1st want to put it up onto a hearth area. I've seen this timber idea ( usa ) which could perhaps be scaled down. Then a hearth layer of some sort on top. Is this the right sort of approach I wonder? Like this its to go into a corner. Opinions would be great, thanks Zoot. '
  25. It was more to do with whether emulsion is suitable for wood walls. So the undercoat primer, is both a waterbased general primer, & some patches of it overcoated again with zinsser. Sort of a mishmash undercoat. It does tend to have wide ranging temps being an outside thin walled wood cabin, winter cold to very stuffy hot in summer. Can emulsion cope I wonder.. It'll be a heck of a job to redo it. Thanks for reading, zoot.
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