Jump to content

zoothorn

Members
  • Posts

    4747
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by zoothorn

  1. Nope. That was the only old wood frame SG window in the house, all white upvc DG now. Just 3 more DG units to replace mind, but done before/ no need to ask again. Thanks, zh
  2. Figured it out- they must go other way in fact/ legs at back just need forcing in. Well they're in now anyway. Glass in/ beads on.. b'stards to get on mind you! I can relax with weather seriously closing in tmrw now. Nick of time. Very satisfying. Both recent jobs have been. Huge thanks again y'all. Within 5 pages too! This build lark is damn good for self-confidence & contentedness combined. Very rewarding. Zh
  3. joe90, last Q really.. I have these whatnots included, presumably seat jobs the frame sits on/ understood. But have I got this right? They have wee 'legs' -my pencil points to one- which unless squeezed in & slipped behind the ridge ( the Top whatnot is pressed in like so )... the bead can't be pushed in place, these two legs are in the way. The black Lower whatnot here, isn't pressed in. No instructions with it. Youtube clips just show someone placing on two whatnots.. no ultra hard pressing in of any legs afaict. The whatnot won't go t'other way round/ legs twds the back.. cos then more of overlaps the bead recess, bead wouldn't go in.
  4. Hi Canski, sat out 1st time last ev.. on this LHS, & it's an absolute knockout spot. And the RHS door gives me a bit of privacy in fact/ damn useful choice doors opening out this way after all.
  5. Hi J, good that's a plan then. Beforehand, having got my frame fixed in solid, & outside silicone done on the sides & btm so it's effectively weatherproofed.. can I go ahead & install the glass I wonder? The weather is sort of closing in, so I'd like to get it windproofed asap (bar the top gap/ can do this in time, as a useful outside overhang means no water will get to top of frame). Any tips? One person.. fairly tall window unit, so this could go pear shaped in a jiffy of course. Thanks, Zoot
  6. Yup got them here. Good progress so far- foamed in, trimmed off foam & wood wedges ( placcy ones pulled out). I'm fine to crack on & complete this job.. apart from needing advice on the top. Here, above old frame, was 15mm of plaster- I needed to hack this off. This leaves me a slatted metal lintel grate thing ( cavity above), & a strip of metal plastering "edging" stuff to work around. Ive left myself 16mm H gap frame top to the black metal grate thing. I was thinking: snip off a good cm of the silver mesh edging stuff, cut a bit of plasterboard to fit, soudal plasterboard adhesive glue it up onto grate thing. Fill 3mm gap with foam. Then tidy up the front edge: fill pb gap to mesh with a bit of foam/ skim with a fine mix of something & grade it / tether it to the metal edge bead. I don't have skills to re-plaster this area, so pb is my only way , I think. Then lastly fill the outside area above frame: anything just to weather- seal it, I guess. thNks, zh
  7. Hi there Gus, thanks it is going great in fact. Yup as Onoff shows drain holes in outside front. Cheers Zoothorn
  8. Thanks, never been called that before.
  9. Always need you to reply Onoff! Dunno what I'd do otherwise! Very grateful chaps-zh
  10. Old sharp chisel... have none! Hmm.. will have to cut off after then. But main point being, they must remain in whilst foaming-? Thanks, zh
  11. @Onoff or @joe90 can you just lend advice: my wedges, here all rather sticky-outy, & plastic ones too.. ..do I foam onto them as is/ leave them be? Or do I remove them before foaming? (Frame fixings in, frame solid). Thanks, zh
  12. Hi Peter, always more confident proceeding with a PW reply! Frame fixings fine/ good recommendation. Had a few teething issues, going thru block a few times/ spinning screw.. but got 8 in now. Can't go into lintel/ metal something here, & presumably best not go downward into my concrete, bc of water ingress? If ok to crack on, could you remind me, my wedges.. (all sticky-outy: the reveal plaster I had to really dig into, leaving them going in at acute angles, rather than flat): do I now remove them, or must I leave them as is & foam/ work around them later, after foam hardens around them? Thanks, zoot
  13. No please, I can't cope with this! J, can you tell me. Is Sticks Like Sh*t All weather stuff, suitable for fixing my frame... down onto my concrete? Im not asking what is the best stuff, or your preference, just if this stuff ( which I have enough for the cill to frame join) is acceptable to use for this important area. Thanks, zh https://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-sticks-like-sh-t-adhesive-clear-290ml/57252?tc=JA9&ds_kid=92700058176434323&ds_rl=1249416&gclid=Cj0KCQjw08aYBhDlARIsAA_gb0dJ6NpSmFKRRMB6HMMXoB-ct47hFGJ5fL04bBynZ-H4vTvhIWww2pwaAkoWEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  14. No the glass came separately. There were some black odd looking rectangles came with it though. The added strips idea: won't work as I have wonky contoured thickass render. I've left a 6mm gap between outside frame, & a useful render outline of where the old frame sat: I was planning to fill with a big bead of silicone something ( that sika white stuff ?). Then, to get weatherproof, I need a big bead of something for frame to sit on between it & my concrete addition. Lastly the top: a bit fiddly but should remain dry until sorted/ sheltered. Thanks for the steps- really useful, I'm all at sea until such a plan is made clear. Zoot
  15. A bit more clear, thanks. So I have to buy a bloomin long bit then, 150mm or so. I'd never have known this unless done all this questioning. You see I look on my extension frames, & none show any use of frame fixings/ I mean there's just screw heads visible, not a grey plastic collar bit showing under them. So.. how the bloomin feck was this done/ anyway I'll never know. Yet another zoot build mystery. thx zh
  16. Eh? You surely mean at least as long as the fixing, plus the gap, plus most of the width if the frame section too-??
  17. I've never used frame fixings before so, if no instructions, I have no undertanding of how they are used. They look identical to rawl plugs. But hammered or something- ?! Driving me utterly insane this.
  18. So unless I'm mistaken, you therefore keep the frame -in place- all through this procedure then? I've only ever used rawl plugs; you have a 50mm screw... you drill into wall 50mm. Here, if the frame doesn't come out to drill the wall hole, you must need a huge great long drillbit? In my case 120mm screw + 25mm gap + 50mm frame. So I need to buy a 200mm long drill bit?? And so now this doesn't make sense. I must be not understanding something flaming obvious here.
  19. But GW, I see two versions of this. This is my point. One clip, the plastic section resides within the upvc frame. Another clip, the plastic section ( as far as I can establish) resides in the wall/ ie not within the upvc frame, like a standard rawl plug does, but, it is somehow ( this is part of the mystery) pushed through the frame. If its pushed through the frame.... how the feck can the screw not be pushed through the same hole?! Both versions just don't compute with me. The only way I can think how, is the frame is taken out, then out back in again. But both clips show this fundamentally -not- happening. I'm utterly baffled. Zh
  20. GW I've done this. Its how I fix this wedged in frame... to the wall, with " frame fixings". Or.... even if I have to. I just don't understand how. Zh
  21. I'm totally confused chaps, please can someone help? I watch another youtube clip. The chap is meticulous, has a 20mm gap between upvc frame & wall. Similar to me. He then attaches half the length of a long screw, with a rawl plug. So 120m screw, he add a 60mm rawl plug ontonit. He then inserts this/ all of it through the frame. Hammers it, then screws in. So the plug, sits ( presumably) in but not projects out of... the wall. Like a normal rawl plug. How this goes through the frame... Ido not know/ is not shown. This is completely different, to what I am reading up about, & watching clips of ( a bit of wood to a wall) about the " frame fixings" I have: these show the "rawl plug"( whatever it is called/ plastic outside bit) -STOPPING- at the same point the screw head does. At the frame. Wtf?? @PeterW could you help maybe? I bought these frame fixings on your suggestion, but I just cannot understand the principle though. thanks, zoot.
  22. Could someone help with this: The clips of the frame fix, like the one Marvin added ( thanks/ did see this among many) shows someone attatching abitof wood... to a wall. Mine isn't this at all though. It's attatching a (bendable) upvc frame, then a gap of some sort (my gap is fairly big- average is 25mm), to a wall. Quite different. There are no specific frame fix clips to help, so I just don't know how to use these "frame fixings". Any help appreciated. Zh
  23. @Marvin thanks for your help. Alas I don't have the time for ebay bits in post though. I have to do this tmrw, with screwfix or toolstation xyz: at it was, I was gonna dive into town & try changing these frame fixings for 8x120mm.
  24. No or Id know roughly what to do. Can someone just help me with 'frame fixings'? Bought some, but hefty jobs it seems.. m10 x120mm ( I thought "frame fixings" were a one size thing). If I only have 8mm masonry bit, then these won't do will they? The principle of rawl plugs Ive done hundreds of times. But doing something other than the standard 'make hole, push plug in'... with sonething that looks like a rawl plug, essentially, & my head is aching/ it doesn't compute. Youtube clips, ive done, but 'hammer fixings' is a term used too. I have no idea wtf is going on. Hammer?? Thanks, zh
×
×
  • Create New...