zoothorn

Great help as always Onoff. I like the bevel-guage clip.. an OCD'ers dream this! I shall diy a bevel-guage. So caulk's.. basically just paintable white silicone-? The manual (page 4 of 4) just the "warning light @ front" bit (twds top).. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/70813/Hotpoint-6361.html?page=4#manual

A few Q's if I may. 1. Should I preferably use grab adhesive over screws/plugs IF I find the wall acceptably straight? 2. What the dickens is the difference between 'caulk' & silicone/ what is 'caulk'? 3. Ceramic hobs. I have my mum's donated hob, saving me £100 as its fairly decent & was working. Ive stripped it down/ cleaned, hooked up & it works so far as I can tell as it should each ring lighting/ diminishing just as I recall ceramics to do. 4x knobs + indicator lights, plus 1 light at front a 'warning' light 'for 60*C'.. which comes on 30 secs after any ring on, stays on most of time. Now I cant establish if this light is A) normal operation.. or B ) its indicating a fault. The manual is not clear: is just says its a 'warning light for 60*C' (any ring will hit that fig under normal conditions regularly Id suggest). Anyone have any similar hob/ circuit before?

Ah ok I was wondering if it was another job for mr. soudal. Its not the wall is 'out'/ wibbly.. its ok.. its the corner angles are not 90*. The room is an odd shape with one side ~80* angles / other room side ~100* (guesses). If I cut corner skirting 45* / fill join, it'll pass.. but not a VG job. I'm reading various things on fitting my hob into the top. Heatproof worktops, gaskets etc. So 1stly I need to hold off putting it in to ask: is my worktop ok for a basic ceramic hob?

Great damn cheap those bits- just come back from screwfix dammit I could've got them- will get next time. The RHS socket has a 1G plug socket for the extractor running directly up from it 1m above.. so easy to see/ avoid for cupboard unit fixing. I'm fixing in the top to wall & hob to top (with no-nosense clear silicone) today, then skirting: I have 5" mdf basic stuff.. what's the best way to fix to mortared &/ or plaster-over mortar walls? all my corners are way off 90* too.. but I do have a chop-saw, if I can judge angles correctly.

Hi Onoff. Im not familiar with 'a diamond blade in a grinder'.. dont have a 'grinder'. I have a tile saw only. I'll look into 'arrow head bit' tho. thanks Unless £silly.. I think Im gonna go for 2 new cupboards above here plus a basic extractor (+ 1 corner unit above coffee cnr). The old hanging cupboards as you can see 1 of here, scream 'dated!' with oldschool extractor between. Gonna shop in Howdens today.

Much done this wknd. Top/ hob not fixed in yet- to do today . Took lot apart as hob hit oven- had to shift shelf/ facias etc down 3cm = FAFF! Next tricky tiling @ sockets/ never done before, got a screwfix handsaw.. urgh..

Hi Temp- I think more than replacing, yes. In principle just what I need.. but waaay too dear.

Better pic/ job done. Cheers for advice on @PeterW

@PeterW job done. pB on back too/ major mouse-proofed. Total 10" of pir, 2 frames/ pB's / scourer stuffed all round edges > soudal'd. 2+ days!! I'll leave this now, & the major upstairs pB info/ pics too: convolutes my own thread so I can't keep up with myself! -------------------------- Back to kitchen this wknd- 2nd top/ cooker area to dismantle.. pulling my finger out ~ last (big) leg really.

@Temp alas not. You see it is a year since I installed (rep came by with sealer ~6 months ago).. but its a drip-drip slow process, rather than immediately obvious, hence they think they can stall/ shaft me. It takes ages to establish the issue. Another year & I'll see clear 'wash-away' mark starting to appear.. year onwards & they'll all -undoubtadly- need replacing.

Hi newhome.. but Ive gone further already. I emailed the MD head-honcho Dunlop (told to write by them but sod that).. his blunt reply in post 1. I will look into a 'small claims case'. many thanks [Mods- can I make a suggestion; if you had the post number (here post #12) its great for reference marks, esp if you want to refer back to something. IE "see back to zoot's #45 technically incredible info etc.."]

Seems like a ccj is'thing you receive? can't make sense of info, & Ive never heard of one tbh. I think maybe wrong place for my query. I was thinking citizen's advice bureau, but recall they're rubbish, maybe my only avenue tho (?)

Hi Nod. But as i said I did seal them. I shouldn't have had to, but the rep came/ gave me some sealer. Its proven that if I was given sealer > they needed sealing. If they needed sealing > then either A) this is normal, or B) this is not normal. Now I have suggested to the Co that this is not normal, & if I see pigment washing off.. then I don't need anymore proof that there is a problem with the item. If I see other problems with the tile, in the shop, concurred by the staff, then more quries about the item. The thread is about what I do with such a dreadful Co, not neccessarily to dispute my findings: this is what the Co have done nothing but &some.. & I'm sick of it. I need help on how to handle this Co. My proof = fact. Fact me.. 'til I fart.

.. or can also be used to create a beautiful feature wall. If it ws solely a floor tile, or, n/g for a shower, the MD would've said this straight off the bat- he didn't. Nor did the staff in the shop when I explained my job, nor the rep who saw the issue, nor the rude manager who called denying I had a problem at all.

Hi newhome lurking over here.. http://www.tileandbathco.com/arbel-slate Its just a terrible Co & what I should do to fight my case. I guess it could be any product not neccessarily bathroom xyz its just this section of a build forum- seems best place I can think of. Nothing to say at any stage, by anyone that these tiles are 'unfixed/ to-be-sealed-by-buyer' (tbh Ive never known of this re. tiles).

Hi out there/ here.. Got a problem with my tiles bought from Tile & Bath Co. I tiled a shower wall/ bathroom (around bath), & a nice job/ very pleased if I may say so. After a while I noticed colour coming off. Can't be.. surely, but pigment deposits coincide with main splash from shower = covered silicone & stained grout at mid/ btm of wall have similar colour as tiles around. Clear proof. So I go to shop: they tried one tile in water they said/ a scrub.. nothing. Im not happy. So their rep visits & says tentatively (1st thing thru front door, a can of Mattstone in hand) he -did- find a slight same thing on his own test. He agrees. He leaves me a can of 'Mattstone' sealer.. well ok line drawn if it does the job (tho 2 hrs work.. & I shouldn't be doing this). A month on- same/ colours coming off. The sealer did nowt, or washed off in a week. When I go in again I mention my prob same, just in passing, I see the tile on display.. with a clear different issue! (computer pattern lines across face). So I put my foot down a wee bit harder, politely, but shop refutes my pov (again) & asks what cleaner Ive used? none.. I hadn't dared clean once since installing them I said. I ask for manager call me next day. He bluntly & rudely refutes my pov, & denies the rep agreed or left me a sealer 'to fix tiles'. I am angry now. I email managing director, explain my issue. A very detailed reply of: a rebuttal of my claims, denial the rep agreed with my findings, grand arrogance of their experience (therefore my meagre pov), no-one else has had a problem etc etc.. & to top it off suggested that my 'green scourer', cleaner stuff, or grout (Mapei/ the best, carefully & correctly applied) are to blame.. anything.. but admitting a fault with the tile. I feel shafted. What do I do? thanks- zoot

I hope at the least, I have 2 bricks courses behind all this pB.. but I can't be sure. Could my roof be added onto a single brick course..?

The house is as simple as can be. Originally a larg'ish stone rectangle, pitched roof on. Roof taken off 1980, brick 1st floor added (badly!) for 2 small bedrooms above. Extenstion added (RHS in pic), ground floor only + pitched roof. Stone shell downstairs is 'main room'. So the only thing to expose, would be the old gable end chimney wall Onoff. Opposite to this end, the other old gable end.. has me' ole in. [edited/ cut down].

@PeterW

That's all to prevent cold air getting into the wall? I'm surprised. You see I'm trying to establish how the bigs area behind my pB's upstairs, are effectively open to the elements/ Ive never known any house like it (have you?).. & therefore a plan to close them off: I don't suppose just rockwool will be the answer. I think the battens behind the pB, aren't fixed to the walls at all, in fact I 'm sure of it- in the loft/ chimney end I defo saw 3x2 battens attatched to the roof joists top end > & to floor joists btm end I assume. The 'wedges' I see in the wall voids adjacent to me 'ole Im plugging up, are just wedges rather than fixing to wall/ I think show a similar construction therefore all upstairs.. hence the larger voids. Anyone know any kind of internal wall construction like this before?

Brill cheers- I'm gonna print this off (tried to find prior info/ needle in my haystack of a thread tho!). Ive had such a battle the cleaner can's label looks like a rotweiler attatcked it/ can't read.. & red nozzle which was always loose on top/ never fitted, gone awol too. Once I get the explosion of foam & 'wehey!' etc (usually over my workbench, & me- now I aim into a bin bag resulting in it swimming with cleaner).. I sing its praises even if my gun's tricky. This can's got 1/3rd left & done so many jobs even wasting loads cleaning it + hassle etc.. its still been invaluable. The bare plaster paint too- perfect for job (if a wee bit sticky/ thick perhaps) meant 2 coats of that + 1 zoot-green = job done. The best buy of all tho bartoline finish plaster tub @ £4.50.. cost as good as the stuff/ did all reveal feathering & patching with 1 tub. Next one of those pB robot zoot-suits for my upstairs spring marathon!!

A separate Q re the wind howling away behind my upstairs beds1/2 plasterboard (& it is pB, not asbestos! I can see an edge: so pB quality back then ~80's approx, was way better than modern stuff then.. unless it 'sets' over time harder). Q. Ive hinted at this q before: in a building with 2 block courses, & cavity between, & std pitched roof sitting ontop.. what is there, in standard build form (ie no 'additional steps taken to close it') to stop wind/ draught entering the cavity, where the wall courses meet the roof?

soudal schmoudal.. cannae get the hang of it! but if I can get it working it does last/ goes on for ages.. I must say that. pir 'wad' done/ setting. Got in loft to check out the backside of frame plan/ sealing up for mice. Gonna pB [] onto my frame, & just mortar up the gaps where foam visible (I like mortar v.satisfying/ tactile!). God its mice central in this loft tho/ horrible job- they all sleep in here after nipping thru me' ole to munch xyz.

Ah. Just as I was about to foam it in.. so, those dish scourers you point to don't rust?

Ok you think wire wool will be similar/ any reason why I couldn't use this can you think of?