zoothorn

Stuffed it full of 2 grab adhesives & it seems to have filled it thank god.. fingers x'd it won't bulge the box out. good suggestion (sorry dinnae know what 'no nails' actually is- assumed a grab adhesive) Finally got the last twunty thin tile bit cut too- 15 tries later..

Aha thanks for those pics- understood/ looks like a royal sod of a job with zilch to show for your efforts once all done! Yup so 2x twin 6mm2 + earth. Comes in thru back hole > out via btm hole. Ok so I saw where btm OUT exits > to cooker, & nothing there cavity-wise for concern. So its just out/ behind the back plate where the cavity is. I see in your 2nd pic your foam isn't doing any cavity-fill duties tho. This is my primary job to fill. If I can fill -and- as a bonus have s'thing solid to make a new fix for my backbox to attatch behind onto.. great, but its not essential/ I can get by as it is, just. So I just need to go back to your filling with NO Nails suggestion, squirting it in behind backbox thru convenient screw hole. Do you mean grab-adhesive? And is this job definitely not better served with foam (or is the direct contact of foam with the 3-core cable coming in rule out this idea)-?

Do you mean grab adhesive? pink grip stuff for eg. Got two tubes so could try that. Ive got it fixed just about acceptably, with its 2 screws in backbox top corners.. so its more Im concerned with plugging the cavity re. cold than something better for it to fix to. So defo not foam?

Dont worry it'll be shattered by other means before then- Im so used to whacking my big f-off metal curry spoon on the edge of my pan or wok with my other crap 'leccy hob, that sooner or later Im going to forget/ go at it hammer & tongs as usual, & inadvertantly smash the fkr up.

Well whatever big cable supplies this (LHS in pic above) socket + cooker switch jobby. Two 3-core big f-off cables then. I'm just not familiar with what sort of size cavites lurk behind backboxes.. cant judge as lamp not illuminating any back to cavity (so might I be pumping in a whole tube to fill a cavity the size of a buick..). Is foam defo -not- the tool for the job here?

Heat diffusers-! now that sounds ideal. will look into it- thanks.

I thought bingo! foam! but then hang on: I can't just whack some in via the vacant backbox scew holes, into the cavity behind.. because of the big (5 core?) cable it'll be in contact with.. can I?

Just had a minor blip.. a can of worms tho? one socket front seemed to shift backbox out a bit when screwed into it. Opened up, & backbox not fixed in with 2 centre screws to block behind, but 2 small screws, in boxes upper corners- ?. Lamp on it.. & all dark behind/ looks like a void.. which I wonder might be into cavity > cold getting in? urgh..

Hey thanks.. std 20x10cm. I just got the lower, wider one cut in fact.. but other one only left is a mite smaller & nigh on impossible but I'll keep trying 1st. fiddly b'stard.

If I could cut tiny slices I could fill it. My grouts the daft 'jasmine'/ cream colour (tiles look better now ungrouted with dark lines.. than other side of kitchen grouted!) so filling like so will stand out. I think white silicone's the only thing maybe.

Quite a few broken tiles, wrong/ clot way round efforts, sweat n tears went into these damn sockets- whole day just finishing off back area. Damn contoured/ relief tile design mean cutting off silvers for the 2 wee gaps LHS isn't possible without a leccy cutter tho.

But newhome what I mean is I don't have the luxury of '3 for keeping warm' (I wish!). My minimum, is '1.. for a fast simmer'. I can't put it to 0.5 as its a switch on-off pot that 'bumps on' @1. To slow simmer I have to park pan 2/3rds off- 1/3rd on, & even so the heat catches the side if left for 10mins. The max side of dial is n/a, as I only need to get to city-wok-hot, which I get to @ 5 (so half of dial 'range' is suspiciously redundant..). Anyway, most of tiling done.. damn nasty job @ sockets without electric cutter (but drill bits great- yet another Onoff essential buy!). Not a perfect job, walls badly out means annoying gap at the corner, & fiddly slivers I can't seem to cut to finish the LHS edge.. but progress/ spurred me on for the ~last leg this week. Thanks chaps!

Anyone know anything about electric hob circuits? this one gets going quick/ good.. but ferociously hot so at lowest on dial a strong simmer, & @ 4 its max ever needed/ boiling very hard (so 5-10 wasted). I wonder if I can get the dial 'range' redone somehow, or if these 'drift' out over time, or, if there's a problem with it. Or, its just par for the course for a ceramic hob.

Is it imperative to take off the socket fronts/ expose the back box, to do the tiling around socket job? is this the only proper way to go?

No Im defo going recirc hood/ filter.. about to buy one today. Started tiling cooker/ top 2 walls area.. 2 sockets Im leaving a gap for as I cant face it! even thought of taking out sockets & replacing away from area. but not poss really. Last b'stard job of kitchen these 2 are mind: I can see some light at job's end!!

Not in theory- the loft isn't big/ say 2m from entry into loft > out to roof.. but I was told 1.5m or less otherwise xyz/ condensation or s'thing.. plus the last thing I want, surely with my huge cold problem in kitchen.. is a flippin hole with a pipe out to the outside, Id have thought-?

Ok thats the plan. It would only introduce more cold if I vented out I just thought/ totally daft for me here (so I dont understand their design then).

Just worked out thats ^ the btm of a door! anyway how the heck the 'pins' fixed > then how its cut.. so I'll leave it/ I'll put outline on & trace (cant see how this blue ^ thingy helps me over this way) & faff-cut it. don't want Mikey & Co behind my cooker xyz. Extractors. Looking in Howdens some fancy flat with glass, other slanted thin steel.. but look same inside. Do these carbon filter jobs actually work, well? or are they just snake oil & only way to do effectively is to pipe outside? alas I don't have luxury of piping out (too far Im told @ 3m even if I could cut hole in roof etc/ major faff), so I either do it poor-man way recycle into kitchen.. or.. as I have the loft above, could I pipe it up into the loft space? assuming its mostly smell & some water vapour, wouldn't it just disperse ok in the failry largish area I have up there?

I can't get my noggin around it.. but sure looks a major ballache. I cant work out either pic above! (tho do get a vague semblence of the idea).

I mean the 2cm depth/ edge, not how the face profile was made. If we call the face the width, the ~5" high the height.. I'm referring to how this chap shaped the depth/ edge, to fit onto the 'complex' skirting face profile. He pushes/ butt-joints his glued 'L' shaped section, onto skirting set in place (if his D edge was cut straight down.. it wouldn't meet without gaps twds the top- so he's shaped his edge to meet it, somehow). This is the join I'm referring to, as its not a 45* meets 45* mitre joint.

Onoff.. back to mitre clip. Of the 2 bits he's joining, the RHS one meets skirting section already in place, side-on. It has a complex profiled edge, on its far side. How on earth is this done-?

Reading www info/ similar Q's as mine.. apparantly the idea with hob unlike sink, is to seal it to top but be able to remove it easily enough. So a gasket is the idea here I think. Good advice re. glass top.. I might have tried using it to force the bow down, but I'll rethink/ be careful now.

Hi Peter- ok I think I'm happy to put in then. No it was my Ma's (78 so no point asking..) & prob mid 90's, but italy made & parts good quality/ good nick. It would've been helpful if the brackets were in the mid sides, rather than ends, to help just press out the slight concave bow.. but maybe lucky & fixing top in might pull it flatter. Damn hob -is- pretty potent tho, 1-11 on dial & I'm boiling stuff @ 2.5 & at min its still too hot.. but if I buy a new one, sod's law it'll be the bloomin same, & cr*pper quality.

I stripped it right down to bits/ cleaned & no fan anywhere.. but so far, & using right now no alarm bells.. but I only ever use the small RHS one. This damn light stays put 10mins after I turn it off.. so my querying it wasn't unfounded- but nothing suggests its OTT hot, or any issues.