Iceverge

Don't put PIR between the rafters unless you're a sadist. Osb is the airtight layer.

A hybrid warm roof is an option not loved by many on here. However if installed by someone who really has an excellent grasp of airtighess then it's totally fine. In the lower drawing you could omit the top layer of OSB and I would be happy to push it to a 1:1 ratio mineral wool to PIR. Lots of this is dictated by what depth of structural timer you require but it can be a good choice for complex roofs as it moves the airtighess layer above the rafters.

Pics please.

Yeah, that's tops. That'll be excellent.

I'm not a huge fan of Tyvek. I think the quality of glidevale vp400 is better than tyvek supro for less money. Are you planning to penetrate the membrane with the ridge vents? A sketch would help.

Could you fit them externally, then mesh and render over them.

On the Roof ventilation side I think you are planning insulation at ceiling level and a pitched roof? If so I would opt for a sealed roof and zero ventilation in the attic to prevent wind washing of the insulation. Have a look at Tyveks detail for a non ventilated cold roof.

From looking at it the insulation is fitted between the rafters, AKA a hybrid roof. These are fine if done by someone who knows their business but really require an immaculate airtight layer somewhere to prevent any any condensation in the roof. It really needs to be a perfect airtight layer to be sure it's effective. From looking at the rest of the job this is unlikely to be the case and I'm very sorry that a "builder" took your hard earned cash and did a substandard job. If it was my roof I'd do the following . 1 .Strip the existing roof back to the bricks, take down the parapet on the gable end. 2.Install timber wall plates on top of a DPC on the brick walls. Strap them to the walls with galvanised tie downs to resist wind uplift. If possible include a strip of insulation outboards of the plates to keep them warm and not attract condensation. Add a plate on top of the "L" lintel above the door and screw it to the metal with self drilling screws. Add a layer of PIR outboard and a 10MM PVC fascia over the top to finish. 3. Install insulated metal cladding straight onto the wall plates. The narrow span makes it an ideal solution and does away with the need for extra internal timbers and ceiling finishing. Appropriately foamed ( I recommend illbruck FM330) it will be completely airtight and condensation safe. 4. Add either a propierty gutter for insulated metal roofs or a standard UPVC one screwed to the fascia. It will cost some cash but should be cheaper than the original job. Make sure that the flashing tieing the roof onto the main house is cut into the bricks and sealed appropriately too.

I've been taking deep breaths and thinking hard about how not to say you'll need to start from scratch if you want a satisfactory job. I think whoever installed is very inexperienced at best but more likely has no knowledge or interest in making you a safe and long lasting roof. By all means pursue them for compensation but I wouldn't be letting them work on my house again. Ultimately I fear you'll need to take down everything that's there and rebuild it properly at your own cost. You could bodge it to stop rain coming in but it'll be only a temporary solution. The main issues I can spot are. 1. Insufficient support for the roof timbers at the high side of the roof. 2. The absence of a satisfactory airtight layer to contain internal humidity. 3. Insufficient overhangs to allow correct water shedding. 4. Insufficient tie downs to keep the roof in place in a storm. 5. Insufficient fixings to the lintel at the low side of the roof. 6. An incorrectly installed and located gutter. 7. An insulated metal lintel that will attract condensation. You have water ingress, almost certainly condensation issues, and I reckon a dangerous roof in the event of strong winds or heavy snow loading. Personally I would cut your losses and start fresh. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

More pics please. Before during and after. Do you have any list of works the builders undertook? Like @Redbeard says it could be a recipe for condensation and rot if not done correctly.

You've had a new extension done with 100 mm joists? This is unusual. They must be very closely spaced and regularly supported by sleeper walls ? In any case 130mm of PIR between the timbers alone wont meet a U value of 0.18. It would be closer to 0.3 by the time you take the bridging effect of the joists into account. Do you have space above the floor to put more insulation there below your finished floor height? Pics of the build as it stands would be useful.

Or you could save some money and just insulate the floor with gold leaf. What U value do you need? PIR between timbers isn't a good idea in my book this detail from ecological building systems is much more robust.

It will turn a normal dense concrete block into a lightweight too. You'd save a fortune and your back.

Send them back up to fix it. https://youtu.be/b_ZeJqNt4Hk?si=CsfA58HZh5gIzlYe

Find the most idiotic person you know. Bring them to your house, get them good and drunk and let them loose. If they fail to operate any part of the house then it's too complex.

Ground works. Dig hole, pour in concrete. Done, dusted , finito. Now let's talk about this digger.......

You're right. I saw a number (5MW) and gone with that . That is rather larger than the average on futher digging. 1000 is a better number than the one I picked.

What do the economics look like? Farming is absolutely marginal even without the inefficiencies of a operating around a field of solar panels. Subsidies form a large part of farm incomes. Would these remain if there was solar panels ? Also farmers hate them, partially because we're ( I'm a part timer) stupid and hate change, partially because they make us redundant and partially because we don't like our neighbour we see in the he field next door and at the market being replaced by panels. I'm guessing solar on a large scale is a subsidy game too, (ignoring the long term climate thing) . Oil is only $70/barrel at the moment.

About 4 times as large as Electric Mountain in Wales. It could store the energy of about 300 normal wind turbines running flat out for 24hrs. It could power London for about 8hrs.

Agreed too many NIMBYs. There's lots of people who are healthy, have access to information, are in no immediate personal need of economic development and have lots of time on their hands. (People who need a house or a job don't complain, when people used to work until 65 and die at 70 it didn't happen). Farming can take place with PV but it's limited as the crops are effectively solar powered themselves. Grazing sheep at very low stocking levels is possible for example. I think locating PV on the south slope of the hills that have turbines would be an appropriate use of grid infrastructure. Of course it's beneficial to have it near the population. I think intermittent targeted power rationing for those who complain the most would be appropriate.

Outside picture too please.

No need to do this is have thought. Just build the walls say 1-2 courses above the first floor height, partially chase them for your services. Paint on airtight paint , fix ledger, fit first floor. Carry on as normal. Thinking about it, drilling concrete, cleaning the hols and inserting resin fixings is a ball ache. Would it be easier to build in m10x180mm bolts to a mortar bed with 50mm washers in the cavity side. And leave 80mm protruding inside Drill 20mm holes in the ledger for some shuffle room and bolt in place.

Pics of this plastic collar please. I'm guessing it's a screw in bushing reducer to take the thread down to an appropriate size. You may be able to screw it out and replace it. If you want to have a go as is by all means a do but be careful with applying hemp liberally to the thread as it may crack the plastic. The T&P valve provides a safety blow off in the situation the tank overheats or over pressurises. You can clean the brass threads relatively aggressively with a wire brush. By the way I'm not a plumber so beware internet stranger advice!!!

Yup, airtight paint would give you the option of bringing the airtight layer up and well clear of the floor construction to meet the wet plaster later on. Airtight sealant would work but you might find it tricky to plaster right to the line of the sealant. Dilute the airtight paint 5:1 with water as a primer before applying the top layer . You could always use airtight paint entirely behind the ledger before you attached it to the wall. Don't forget to put some mastic or sealant in the holes the bolts go into the wall too and to airtight paint the chase behind the ledger.

You'll need hemp too. Scrape the exposed threads with a hacksaw blade to get it rough enough to get the hemp to stick. And apply the plumbers mate as you go. It'll end up the same consistency as hair matted in butter. It's a fiddly job the first time you do it. There's a balance to getting the fixture tight enough but not too tight to crack the tank. Beware that if it goes wrong today ( Saturday) you might be without hot water for a few days.