Iceverge

Ah, that explains it.

That's super toasty but yes you do get used to it. Why was it so hot, i was of the impression you resided somewhere in the far North. Surely evening and night time temps were more tepid than that?

You've lost me.....

Good passive design should be always considered. Houses are woefully under engineered given the masses of human knowledge we have accumulated. Omitting active climate control at either end of the scale however will result in uncomfortable temperatures. Coupled with other heat limiting measures like shading, appropriate glazing, decrement delay, cross ventilation, stack cooling, and insulation I think A/C is still an acceptable compromise in NW European climates.

pun intended? !!!

I think people would be worried about the unfamiliarity of it because we're all somewhat cavemanish when it comes to our houses. Mind you a few weeks of no sleep in 30deg bedrooms in conventionally heated houses this year might broaden people's imaginations.

After feeding the AI a little and trying to decipher the nonsense I've concluded that the risk presented by rain, wind and cold are lightly to be about 6% worse than normal. Something like 1997/98 for where i live. Making long range weather forecasts from climate changes is like predicting the exact path of the ball for 90mins from just studying the team sheets before kickoff. Most lightly a waste of time.

Back to OP's original q. We didn't install any heating but relied on a plug in radiator for a couple of years until the electricity price rocketed, enter stage left the Daikin FTXM25R. A2A is a wondrous thing, cheap to install, cheap to run and simple to use. Heating and cooling and it cannot leak as there's no water. We have one in the downstairs hallway, nothing else, give it long enough to run and it'll keep the house ( passive class) appropriately toasty. (Bathrooms need a small boost with a fan heater for comfort. One worry I'd have is that it wouldn't cool the upstairs as much as cool air tends to sink and warm air rises but I've never had cause to try. Sensibly sized bedroom windows, all rooms with cross ventilation and the south of Ireland doesn't suffer England type nighttime temps. In your situation and wanting to allay fears of future saleability I'd do UFH with cooling throughout as mentioned earlier. If it were me I'd do a 70mm duct and a fused spur in a hallway upstairs and downstairs and move in and install A2A as an when you felt it necessary and spend the saved cash on the fabric of the building.

No, the laptop fan is ten times noisier.

Spending too much of my life in hotels with work I've completely abandoned the USB sockets in the wall in favour of my own charger. They are always very very slow and sometime give up the ghost altogether.

240w, goodness.

Does USB C charge faster than the old ones? I have a multiple outlet charger and maybe its my imagination but I think it does*. *No science applied here,I'm guesstimating.

That lead to yet another amusing and informative visit to urbandictionary.com

That's very tight to get insulation in there but anything would be a great improvement to prevent condensation etc. How many mm do you have to play with, it looks to be only about 15mm? I would get Marmox board and shim it level and screw it to the brick reveal, holding it back 5mm from the window frame. Squirt behind it with FM330 or other low expansion, airtight expanding foam. Then use a white acoustic/airtight sealant to seal the 5mm gap between the marmox and the window frame. The room side of the Marmox can be taped to the PIR. 3MM Gypsum skim over the marmox then. Consider adding some kind of check strap or other stopper to the window sash to stop it hitting the reveal and cracking it afterwards.

Insulation going in there? Looks like an opportunity pour in some EPS beads.

No, just a self builder. You *might* get away with PIR but low permability materials used like this are very intolerant of errors in workmanship. Let us know if you every have a look behind it.

I made a very boring video detailing this. https://youtu.be/sI98d1R3ntQ?is=z8mp6B7uVoDurT7o

I would be slow to expose the external stone. These walls were often not designed to have exposed stone work. Hit these points and you'll be ok. 1. Stop bulk water. Good pointing/external render. Good gutters and chutes. Take care of external water table (French drain) . 2. Excellent internal airtightness via a parge coat, variable membrane, tapes and airtight paint where needed. This really is massively important. 3. Continuous mechanical ventilation in the house to remove damp something like dMEV, MVHR, PIV. 4. Internal insulation build up from only materials of higher vapour permability. Something like wood fiber, mineral wool, plasterboard, cheap trade contract paint are all fine. Nothing to trap the moisture in the wall. That rules out PIR, plastic membranes, vinyl paint. Foil back PIR plasterboard is certainly not a good idea. For maximum bang for your buck, excellent airtightness with 50mm of mineral wool everywhere will massively outperform 100mm PIR here and there with no attention to air sealing.

Get a consaw and cut the patio back 400mm from the wall. Like redbeard says, Assuming you have a lower level to drain to, I would install a french drain. As deep as you can get the water to flow away from. Back fill with something like 20mm chip to a level no higher than 150mm below the bottom of the vent. Alternatively assuming that you can't drain to a lower plane I would look into something like an external periscope vent. The wall will remain damp unfortunately though in this instance.

Both better than plastic insulations. Both worse mineral wool but by the time fire gets to the frame your real protection has failed anyway. Cellulose has excellent airtightness properties and most of the best results are from timber frame with pumped on site cellulose. I have less knowledge of wood fiber. Blown mineral wool is a choice too but. Cheaper and good U value but doesn't contribute as much to airtightness.

Sorry to hear about this predicament. Filling is a nice easy idea. Make a hole and back in concrete trucks and pour until you see it coming out the top. £10k of concrete and call it a day........ However 160 odd tonnes of extra mass over the basement floor might have unforseen consequences. Also pouring that much concrete might be ok in small bites in one go and I'd be worried about the walls of the basement buckling out. Then comes drainage pipes etc. Gut feeling is to do as little large scale disturbance as possible and retain access to the basement for future maintenance and inspection. I don't love the idea of not addressing the existing steels as they sound beyond salvaging, but we can't tell from this distance. Also it would be good to know if the existing floor is carrying loads that it shouldn't. I have a suspicion that if the external area around the apartment was backfilled the floor may be resisting the pressure of the ground pressing in from outside. Could you perhaps make a semi accurate cross sectional drawing and maybe some pics. A good SE, a diligent local builder and a few £1000 in men and materials might be enough to solve this yet.

It's a great product if installed correctly. Are you stick framing on site or ordering a kit?

Yeah, that's fine.

300mm external wall is really really tight to meet insulation regs. Brick Cavity Osb 140mm studs Plasterboard Skim Comes to about 290-325mm by my calculations. Can you stretch the wall thickness to 400mm?

Pics .... I am suspicious of the double wrap too. It might not always be as good an idea as first it appeared to be.