Redbeard

If you make your own it also has the possible advantage that it will not be left on a reel. Did anyone mention ensuring the reel is fully unwound? A hefty draw on a part-wound ext'n lead shows what a good resistor it makes... (Egg-sucking and grandmothers not intended!)

Whether the roof has flat or vaulted ceilings I would suggest cut some rigid insulation at the eaves to form a 'ventilation profile', then (if it's a flat ceiling) 200-300mm of your choice of 'quilt' on top of the joists at right angles to them, then friction-fit semi-rigid mineral wool between the joists to finish. Then VCL, then plasterboard. If it's vaulted you'll need to 'build down' from a 50mm vent path to get a B Regs compliant level of insulation. (Crudely about 150 PIR or 270 'fluff') BUT (re ventilation), The WC etc roof is a lean-to, isn't it, which presumably means there is no cross-ventilation from the eaves? So... Can you put vents in the end of the 'WC end' and the utility, to get air flowing that way. Keep the 'ventilation profiles' I refer to above as well, so you get a bit of extra supply ventilation to the void*. *Of course this only works if you have voids, and doesn't if you have vaulted ceilings. More info, please!

I don't know how likely this is, but try it: Previously you had just concrete. I assume the top pic is 'before'. Now you have mud and broken concrete. It looks as if mud has splattered up the wall and has imparted a layer which absorbs water. So is it that the bricks area completely soaked through, or that the 'mud overcoat' is wet? BTW, you said As this is a cavity wall you might not see damp internally even if the ext wall was wet. This was, after all, the original idea of cavity walls, that a failure properly to maintain the external skin would not automatically result in damp internal conditions for the tenants ('tenant' used advisedly as experimentation with cavities started in 19th C when the private rented sector accounted (if I remember my Housing lectures properly) around 90% of the housing stock. (I accept, of course, that that cavity in your pic may well have been retro-filled if it is, as I guess, c1960s).

I certainly don't think it is fussy not to want someone else's rubbish delivered to you, and I too thought that asbestos skips were, for a start, usually covered and lockable, but @Russell griffiths may be right about the grades. OTOH, however well bound it is, asbestos-bearing is asbestos-bearing, and I would not want some (insert applicable word) removing my crinkly asbestos garage sheet from an open skip to put their cr** in, leaving me with another asbestos problem to solve. A cover would go a fair way to avoiding that.

I like the way you used the cardboard cut-outs to boost the apparent numbers!😉

But that's their (or the sales person's) problem. They have delivered what you didn't order, and you want what you did order. You have every right to ask them to take these away and let you know when the correct ones are ready for delivery. If this will screw up your timetable then maybe there is a 'bird-in-the-hand argument which could be won by an additional discount. AFAICS you hold all the cards at this stage.

Is this a problem over the whole roof, or in discrete areas only? I suspect, given your description, that it is rain blowing up the laps. Although I suggested in another recent thread that sarking felt is not always 'noticeable by its absence' this may be an exposed situation where it would help. It's a bit older than mine, but not much, and I would have little hesitation re-laying at least 60% of my slates as a new roof . I have seen an example in an area of very high industrial pollution where natural slates resembled 'porridge', but if your slates look OK from the top it may well be 'cause they are.

Looks very like it. Try to get rid of the bubbles that are there and do a 'controlled experiment' with significantly smaller amounts of detergent.

Hello! Although the first bit of insulation is always the best one (the graph of insulation efficiency climbs very steeply, and for each subsequent unit flattens out further and further) 100mm on the ceilings is pretty unexciting. The Bldg Regs would require 270mm of 'fluff' (glass-fibre or Rockwool or - as per @Sparrowhawk - recycled plastic bottle insulation ) or a tiny bit less of sheep's wool, recycled cotton, flexi woodfibre etc. I would not recommend lass than 300mm. The stud walls are going to be more tricky for you because of the tight space. My minimum recommendation would normally be full fill of the stud depth, with a wind-tight breathable membrane stapled over the studs. If I could I'd put the same membrane over the ceiling insulation too, to reduce the risk of 'windwash' - cold air getting in among the layers. Are those rafters 150mm? So you could get 100mm in and still have decent ventilation between the felt and the insulation. Access would be easiest if you took the ceiling down. That could, if the pitch is steep and headroom less of an issue, allow you to add further battens and insulation under the rafters. Note the minimum suggested 270mm on the flat ceilings and possibly the 100mm+ to the stud wall may comply with current Bldg Regs. 100mm in the sloping ceilings wouldn't. Normally I advise people to make sure they do, so that on future sale they don't get would-be purchasers trying to push the price down. Others take a different viewpoint. Getting Bldg Regs approval (or not) costs. See Planning Portal for details. @Sparrowhawk has covered the rest re air-tightness and thermal by-pass.

You raise a valid issue, but I'd probably be just as worried about heat-loss via the window-board, unless you have checked and there's 75 - 100mm of PIR insulation in there. Most Oriel windows like this seem to have absolutely zilch that's insulative between the window-board and the outside world. In my experience uPVC window installers don't necessarily tend to be insulation or air-tightness specialists. As far as you can tell, what is actually supporting the window-board (and the whole oriel window structure)?

ps - site currently resembles the Somme ...and sadly probably will do until April+ Is there any scope for a rudimentary 'porch' outside the door (even if it's a free-standing 'shed') so you can have a good doormat and change wellies outside?

... or ask agent to contact the would-be buyer and offer a discount that is more than the cost of re-roofing? My roof has no membrane (and, unlike your friend's mother's house, never has had). I won't say it has never leaked, but at 100+ years old it still requires very little routine maintenance. If I came to sell, however, I am sure the survey would point out the lack of sarking as an 'issue'.

Shrinkage will cause air/w.v leakage through cracks in the plaster layer. Do an excellent VCL on top of excellently-fitted insulation.

Is this clear sheet? How about clear 'Sticks like sh*t'? In my experience it sticks ... jolly well.

All my thoughts as I read the posts so far pre-supposed that you would be dropping the plasterboard and working from below. On the basis that you can't see what you don't see I would not like to guarantee how well you can seal the joints. Variables include rafter pairs which are not a completely consistent distance apart, rafters 'on the twist' and so on. I have never seen a sloping soffit insulation job done 'from the apex void' where it has been completely tight. Even when access is available it's not necessarily wonderful. Many rooms-in-the-roof insulated from above when re-roofing are testament to this. For an excellent job I would kit up with PIR,(if that is your material of choice - others are available - air-tightness tape and a/t primer, bite the bullet, drop the ceilings (sorry!), clear up the mess and insulate the slope leaving a minimum 50mm ventilation gap below the felt. 0versail the sloping insulation past the flat 'loft floor' and carefully detail the junction between PIR and 'fluff'. Are those 150 rafters?

To comply with current regs it should be at least 27cm deep. 40 or even 50cm is not too much for me, as long as you can get access when necessary.

Yes, possible, but as noted by the OP there seems to be air movement in there, so any solution would require designing out unintentional ventilation and designing in the intentional. I suspect the OP was hoping to avoid dropping the ceiling. I'd go the whole hog, but with new 'proper' ventilation designed in.

We bought ours online. My notes tell me it was Floormart.co.uk in Leicester. It was 2 or 3 years ago, but their website says they still do Marmoleum. I thought at first they had delivered the wrong colour, but found on querying it that they had wrapped my roll in a Marmoleum offcut to protect it from damage during delivery. They were v. helpful. I don't know if they have a showroom, but they are not near you anyway. Possibly worth giving them a call.

Is the wiring in contact with that EPS insulation when it 'lies down'? If so you want to sort that. EPS leeches the plasticisers out of PVC cable sheathing. How well-built is that structure? Do you think there is any risk that external air will circulate between the EPS and the OSB at the top of the joists? If so, even if it is a Warm roof (with, say, a minimum of 150 PIR above) the 'Warm' roof element may be doing very little. Edit: Sorry, I had not read @Mr Punter's post. I'd still suggest satisfying yourself re (lack of) air-leakage, though, or the 'by-pass' possibility still applies.

Thanks @sgt_woulds. I was assuming VCL on sub-base and PIR or similar non-breathable ins'n. Good clarification though re WF.

No idea how I came to answer a 2-year-old post! Nevertheless if anyone is interested in the life of (some) sleepers note that the first '10' above was a misprint. It should read 5 (max) years left.

My first thought was that in a Warm Roof (note the initial capitals) you don't need vents - indeed there isn't anywhere to vent unless you want complete thermal by-pass. Then I wondered if by 'warm roof' you mean insulated between and perhaps also under the rafters, giving you a roof void which is warm (and a heated volume which is greater). A true Warm Roof has all the insulation above the rafters. BUT if you are simply talking about the oversail and the rafter ends then maybe there is some argument for ventilation there. However I have doubts as to whether that air will flow enough to purge the area of vapour. Ventilation generally needs 'ins' AND 'outs'. Diagonally-opposite is always good. If I have completely misunderstood please ignore all of this!

How long are you planning to live there? I had treated softwood sleepers laid to retain approx 700mm soil around 10 years ago. They are noticeably rotting and maybe have 10 years left. I am now 10 years older and wish I had used masonry.

Welcome. I'd suggest dense, breathable insulants such as rigid wood-fibre or cork. You/we will need to try to build up a 'picture' of the 'slightly moist' nature of the marl. Breathable insulants can be a help to breathable walls. They are not an instant solution to wet walls. If this is a conversion, how are the internals finished? Plaster? If so, gypsum or lime? Plasterboard? Is it insulated or not?

Tiles?