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I went with belden 9505 alternative - ideal stuff... Foiled, drain wire, 5 pair, tinned, stranded... Going to use two runs of that, one for the pLAN connection (RJ11 at each end) and one for the temp sensors and call-for-heat. I just need a nice way to get it out of the duct, and into the side of the ASHP. I'm thinking I'll use a rubber duct end cap, into 20mm rigid conduit, stainless jubilee clips, then a conduit bend and a panel fitting. 0900766b813d85c8.pdf

Are you thinking like this: Ground source, with the brine running through an outdoor radiator/fan unit?

There’s a possibility that I might have to replace a good percentage of the windows in my cottage/shack/farmhouse. I know that most people on here like to buy the best (aluclad etc) but as this is a rental, and I don’t know how long I’ll be here, I’m looking for ‘cheap and cheerful’. It probably doesn’t need to be BR compliant as it’s technically not a dwelling, so any old double glazing will do. Does anyone have experience buying ‘standard softwood windows’ and can advise where to look? Ideally I’d like them pre-painted. I could go for plastic, but I expect that will carry a premium over timber, and the sight lines might not be ideal.

Yep, mitre fast and one screw to the rescue…

Wondering if I can just glue them on with mitre fast? The outsides fit perfectly, just the inside that’s the issue

Urghh, always something…. Slots are wider than the mounting holes on the fancy new vents… I’ll figure something out…

Yeah, I buy all mine from the electric cable co….

I tend to use 3 core (in the correct colours), then earth the armour at one end only, for protection and export the earth to where I'm going. If that's not appropriate and I'm making a TT island then I'll still earth the armour.

Got any photos of the how the insulation went into the walls?

Simple question really, ASHP on rubber feet, should I make it a TT island or export the earth from the house? It's 20m away. The risk being that it's metal cased, and in the event of a PEN fault (we're on TNCS, overhead), the casing will rise to 1/2 the phase voltage. The same issue applies to to EVs where the incoming earth is bonded to the chassis, hence why charge points have an earth rod, or a PEN failure detection circuit.

You can always get the walls blown with beads, as long as there are weep vents at the bottom of the cavity and trays over the openings, you should be fine with the moisture issue.

They have arrived... Very much nicer than the ones from Glidevale...

This is a shocking example of what can go wrong... really shocking that the builder ignored the regs drawings and went with 50mm in the cavity. I bet he didn't tape it either.

Nice, the longest I can find for Deceuninck 2800 is 150mm

My current costs to upgrade a 40yr old back boiler system... Still got to buy some copper, and some electrical items. Probably another £500... I'll probably use half those press fittings (I bought a job lot, I'll adjust the costs afterwards once I know what I used)

Longest strap I can get for the profile from my supplier is 150mm, doesn’t span the cavity. agree on the closers though, got to be built in as you go.

Yep, it's more finding a suitable body that places the sensor horizontally... I think I've found one from danfoss... Having a standard valve body places the sensor way above the top of the radiator, something I'm keep to avoid.

Got a heat loss calc yet?

Box in just above your doors and fit a 'hotel' style cassette in each room?

" At the PCB end, there is actually some screw terminals just above the RJ11 jack, this is 4 pins for the power and data so you can use this one end and disregard the plug. For the screen end, you can use a RJ11 adapter with 6 pins, from memory the two outer pins are live and the 2nd two outer pins are neutral. The middle pins are + / - data. (Carel double the power cables up to overcome volt drops on the prewired cables) A standard CAT6 cable is normally fine for upto 30m runs though."

Nice cable, thanks. Stranded too, which I like. I've just pinged an email to Chris at CoolEnergy asking for confirmation on the Carel pLAN wiring requirements so should be able to spec a suitable cable once I hear back.

Bang your manifold on and see if there is any pressure in there... If not, pressure test it with something inert (nitrogen, argon, argoshield), then vac and refill... r290 is cheap off ebay...

Yep, on TBOE the TRV needs to go on the flow, to the top... I need some that aren't too tall above the top of the radiator. I suppose I could use an inline one and just mount it below the top of the rad, on the vertical pipe, with the head sticking out into the room.

Good luck finding straps that work with a 150 cavity and fit your profile, I couldn't... Ended up sitting them 20mm over the cavity as compromise. Better than the 30mm back from the face that the regs used to allow, but not technically compliant. BCO inspected and didn't even comment... The other issue, as highlighted by my builder is the poor quality of the cavity closers you get these days. Wobbly plastic things with a small flange... Good luck putting packers onto those...

Because of dexterity and disability access issues, I'm planning to plumb up the new rads TBOE. I'm going to have TRVs in the upstairs rooms (bedrooms and one bathroom), with the downstairs on standard rad valves. Does anyone have a source of good quality TRVs that aren't super tall? I was looking at Danfoss for quality, but they appear to be massive. I was looking at the Talus Bold which looks quite slim, and is available in all-white, but I'm not sure on the quality. Anyone have any recommendations?