Nickfromwales

Then on your own head be it. Cant have your cake and eat it, in a nutshell. If they’re £10k over the uk national average then its £10k / 180 days of delay. I think you’re spilling hairs personally, after the horse has bolted, after accepting costs incoming; those which you took as acceptable as being based on trust and convenience.

Just good (robust) woodwork and framing here for 2 x framed WCs and then plasterboard and tiles. Thin bead of sikaflex / CT1 on the metal of the frame and use that to bond the PB to the frame, and it’s rock solid for life.

@Rick734 Check out my info here. Searching will dig up some others

I’ve never used anything more than plasterboard over the last >25 years of doing high end bathrooms.

Did you report it?

In the med you can sit outside and enjoy the views, in the uk you’d get wet and cold doing so, ergo ‘we’ choose portals to view the outdoors / scenery and small windows don’t lend themselves very well to this pursuit. Solar reflective glazing works very well, and only needs buying once / is zero maintenance. Buying heat to offset the reduction in winter solar gain is not worth the argument, in a well insulated, cheap to run dwelling anyways, so afaic fill your boots.

@Dee, who fitted the boiler and did they flush it?

You can use cable ties and bases on things like MVHR ducts, as they’re not heavy, but obvs no good for soil pipes etc. No specific regs afaic, just more common sense and a robust approach to resolve this. Soil pipes need clips or banding, and as water changes direction you need to arrest any movement that would eventually cause a fitting to come away from the pipe. Water pipes have clips for the pipe size, so easy solution there.

The top rail of the manifold has flow meters which show litres per minute per loop. When running, can you see these moving and what do they show? The hope would be that the ones for the rooms not heating up would show no flow, meaning you have airlocks or a poorly balanced setup that needs tweaking. The worst outcome may be that the actuators on the bottom rail have snuffed it and are no longer opening the loops to the affected rooms. Any info on the first question re the flow of water would be a good place to start.

Crikey! That’s a very complex arrangement. Could you take some pics standing a bit further away so we can see what’s what? Thanks.

Any reason to flush? You’ve drained this down a number of times and have some new valves here and there? Water still grotty, or just cool spots on rads?

Yup. KISS wins every time mate. Tbh you’d be opening up a giant can of worms if you went opening up / disturbing bigger sections of ground near existing founds to drop pads in afaic, so glad that sense has prevailed here At least underpinning can be controlled in smaller sections.

I’d go for the single location, wherever, with a larger lower temp cylinder, and a secondary hot return circuit which was insulated very well; this is what I do on most jobs and works a treat. When you get used to near zero wait time for premium temp DHW to come out of the tap, you’ll not go back to tolerating the wait. If there’s solar or cheap lecky to use to offset the small uplift in energy costs to run this system then it’s a very nice luxury to have and doesn’t cost a lot. Place the money saved from the 2nd cylinder ( labour / materials etc ) into a glass jar, and use that to pay the energy bill.

Dont you just want to catch this crud at the unit filters, vs climbing up and getting fingerprints on the room vents? Unit filters are cheaper than shoplifting so why add the ballache of having to micro-maintain this?