Nickfromwales

Hi and welcome. Are you aware of the zero VAT rule, if you decide to use either a bulldozer or an excavator to knock it down?

You can have the heat pump tbh as most modern, inverter-driven heat pumps have a very low inrush current as these ramp up vs ‘turning on’. Also, if gas is available, you could go for a hybrid ASHP with a gas burner (Grant do these); whenever the heat pump becomes overwhelmed the gas burner kicks in to fortify output. They’re a bit pricy though.

I have to ask about the exterior 'screen'? Don't you feel it interferes with the views? Lovely corner windows, great views, and then you look out onto (into) the additional timber screens.

You'll be surprised at just how much you can abuse an 80a connection. You'll not actually be doing as much 'constant, full-wallop' consuming of the juice . These things are a lot worse on paper than in reality. You'd not believe what one previous client was running off a 60a connection previously, when I was approached to refurb and add PV, and that was a large property full of electric showers / all electric cooking / fully occupied, and a self contained annex with the same all-electric setup in there sharing the same supply.

You have a bit of luck, as the base of each handle has those larger 'feet', so I would just drill incrementally up in size until you get to where you need to be. If it's up/down, then maybe use the 5mm bit to just elongate to make a slot, vs making bigger holes, plus you may need to fit washers to the screws so they don't pull into the (real wood) of the door and then move back to where you don't want them to be from the tightening action (rotational movement of the pan head screws). Very slow and very steady wins the race, so don't do this in anger.

UVC doesn't give higher flow rates at the 50o+ temps? Combi's can't usually be compared. 3 showers is very good, at what flow rates?

Mostly pics tbh

You’re still always constrained by the physical max flow rate of water, whatever temp, through a combi.

My books are all still wrapped in the cellophane as I didn’t bother going for my NAPIT in the end; Covid put that on ice, and a change in career path (coming away from the coal face) put it to sleep. Maybe I should give them a read lol.

Yup. Nails are soft, screws are hard, and those bits (and the Erwin ones, as long as you buy the correct ones)) are defo rated to go through nails; I have these and they plough through nails with relative ease. Screws is a very different thing as there’s nothing other than diamond that eats those. The Starret bits do go through, but after a few holes / screws you’ll defo see the teeth beginning to fail. I treat these as a consumable and just but multiples of the go-to sizes and bin when they start to struggle. Same with flat wood bits, just buy cheap ones off amazon, boxes of multiples of 12/16/20/25/28/32mm and treat as disposable. If the know there’s a screw, try to remove it, if you’ve gone through nails, whack a screw in after to reinforce what you’ve removed. Another joyous day of house-bashing. These are the best ones imo, if you’ve a whole house to 1st fix for plumbing and electrics. LINK

Anyone experienced and competent, you meant to say

Yup.

SELV covers up to 50v iirc.

£30k is a lot of dosh for mediocre work and then having the house damaged too is just shocking.

Close off one UFH loop at a time (one per 24hrs) and then reopen and close the next one along, and keep going until you’ve proven the leak doesn’t stop when a particular loop is isolated (remember you MUST close off flow and return tightly or the test won’t work, so righty-tighty for flow gauge and the blank caps on the lower). Best to start there, but as above this needs finding asap as that’s a good few litres of water at least being pumped into the fabric of your new home. Fingers crossed that it’s finding its way to ground somehow, waters good at finding a way out, if one exists.