Nickfromwales

Great post, thanks for sharing here. Can you use the ASHP to cool? Doing that for a few hours in the afternoon to early evening may help knock off 1° which would be quite significant for having cooler rooms when you are looking retire each evening.

Just make sure you foam or mastic any gaps either side of the blocks so the SLC doesn’t just disappear down south.

Yup. CT1 to hold both the XPS to the steel and the box to the XPS. Don’t use bare XPS as it’s quite friable, get something like Jackoboard or tile backer board, the type with the grey gritty surface coating to accent adhesives, and that’ll hold up much better. I’d use a pvc conduit back box here, and defo not a metal one here. You can still bury that and plaster to the edges of it, so zero chance of cold getting any further from the steel than you want. The conduit boxes aren’t as fragile as the regular surface mountable back boxes, as they’re made from a different, softer plastic. Link Tbh the entire rising faces of this steel should be clad with the insulation material, not just where the socket box is.

You should have told him he'd be sharing it if he didn't pull his tampon out....... This is what happens when the foot soldiers get too much authority. Probably the only pipe he's laid for some time lol.

Don't tell your wife I said this, but you need to go grab the credit card for next years holidays, and to shoot down the big boys tool shop with it, and get fully kitted out asap lol. If there's one hole in your new oversized tool belt that is empty, you're in deep trouble It's easier to ask for forgiveness than get permission !

Guess who you're ringing tomorrow for a chat about this installation!!

If they use a 600mm bucket then there's an opportunity to comply with their requirements for 'segregation', however I am still bemused as what exactly the conflict could be between the water and the electricity supplies..... Electricity and gas, maybe more relevant, but what the heck!? This is when installing ducts becomes your friend You simply pull the services through after the foundation has been installed. I'm curious as to what advice you've taken (or been given) regarding foundation type? Have you done geotechnical surveys yet? From what you are typing, I am a bit worried that you don't have a very tight grasp on what's what here. Not a problem, because you are now a member here and we will 'learn you good'.

What make are the units?

https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-black-jack-damp-proof-membrane/p10290?store=null&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21016232523&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcX3SICQivfTjJrOYFQACEcF9&gclid=CjwKCAiA0eTJBhBaEiwA-Pa-hbx22hKHf4L0JhrXGpuqT5asuMzSUApyYANX_9hicTjUNIoDLEk_zBoCpeYQAvD_BwE I'd chip away an inch or so from the top of those blocks, then apply the liquid DPC, and then after at least 2-3 coats have been applied you can back-fill with a self-levelling compound. You can get 1L tins iirc.

Prob better to use the £100 for beer as nobody can get the application approved. The architect should be advising as part of their ‘professional advice’.

Same if the existing boards are ok. Maybe use the opportunity to put some fresh acoustic insulation in there. For my SiL’s house I put plywood inside the metal webs of the MF tracks to beef up the walls before plaster boarding. Made the wall much stronger.

Cut along the red line, to leave the chipboard under the stud wall. Then put a piece of wood (18mm plywood or similar) under that existing flooring, wide enough to be 75mm under existing and 75mm on show, and screw / glue it by fixing down through the chipboard into the plywood to form a connecting ‘tongue’ of plywood. Then your new flooring will sit on that, which you then glue and screw down into, and job done.

erm....the other £70bn is engineered and just finds it's way out of the public purse and into the hands of c****. Same thing, year in year out. That's why in the UK we're switching off streetlights to try and save money. #utterlyfeckedandnothingwecandoaboutit

I was happy to install YY, until the merchant said they just don't sell any of it! 3-core flex it is. I just observe segregation where things like long LED strips are in the mix, so the DC runs are not bunched with equally long runs of AC stuff; unless it's a small bit of LED which doesn't really seem to ever care how you run the cable.......no complaints yet, so I'll belay starting to panic before bedtime. This. Under-volt = over-current, and then the LED's are on a shorter lifespan. RIP.