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Nickfromwales

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Nickfromwales last won the day on December 8

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  • About Me
    http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/index.php?/topic/38-hello-from-the-resident-welsh-plumber/


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    South Wales.

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  1. I'd recommend a TCT percussion SDS drill vs diamond core, as that'll be 'soggy' and a total bastard to core drill multiple holes in. Not so bad if you can hire a diamond core drill with a hose pipe attachment to allow water to flush the hole whilst it's being drilled. May need both, if you hit a bit of rebar as the TCT SDS won't like that very much whereas the diamond will whizz through it.
  2. Yea. Let’s ban him!!! Shocking sir, call yourself a professional? 🤣
  3. Just done 9x Fakros and had ‘input’ as to how / when they went in. 22mm fibre sarking board over 300mm posi joist roof with blown in cellulose. Breather membrane sat directly on the sarking, then 50x25mm vertical rising counter batten, then 50x25mm roof battens laid horizontally for concrete tiles. Zero issues. Manufacturers installation guidelines trump everybody else, including the BCO! The membrane should have been flat on the sarking afaic. You need to get the roofer to expose the heads of these openings, and check how / where water is getting in. If the membrane has this droop then these are just going to become natural gutters, which collect and pool water at the top of any openings / solar PV trays. Poor suggestion from Potton here I’m sorry, but they’ll just blame your roofer.
  4. Forget trying to fill the cracks from the face, I believe the phrase applicable here is “pissing into the wind”. If you want the wall to be ‘pretty’ then fit some horizontal battens and some vertical cladding, timber or synthetic, as then the water can dribble out of the new drip holes and down to the ground, behind the cladding. That’s perfectly fine, assuming the walls been there for x number of years and there’s no notable movement of it from its original cast position?
  5. I spotted that in the other thread. The condensate from a boiler is corrosive, so you’re not allowed to discharge that into metal pipe work.
  6. Thanks for the update. Install them first to see if they offend you, and if they don’t then step away from the spray can and use the savings for bathroom fittings
  7. We thought it was blockwork because of the horizontal lines. That's the correct answer, give yourself a gold star and a Werthers Original. You just beat me to it......
  8. Yup. The second pic looks like someone’s poor attempt to relieve the trapped water. Looks like it’s just had a drill put through it. These drainage outlets need to be 40mm waste pipe minimum and be kept clear. Defo needs addressing properly but you’ll always have this runoff. Working out how far down you can make the holes would help, as the lower the better, if you can do fewer larger holes, but smaller ones (32mm or 40mm) would need to be high and low to cope.
  9. My apologies, I hadn’t noticed that Prob best to stop this before we get shouted at 👀
  10. He takes the biscuit. Does that count?
  11. Many heads always better than one, imho.
  12. My fear, as con’y roofs are open to atmosphere.
  13. House has prob been retrospectively blown in with beads on the external walls. Probably a cold room too, with that horizontal radiator …..
  14. That’s just a land drain which lets the water through the wall that would otherwise look to erode the wall or the ground under it, in order to escape. These usually just dribble down and a ditch / drain carries the rainwater away. Not sure you can easily / effectively connect a pipe to this as is. It would likely need a new piece of plastic drain pipe through that dwarf wall and for you to carry that on to the drain.
  15. Brand new cars are held together with double sided sticky tape.
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