Nickfromwales

Maybe a good opportunity to poke an inspection camera in one of the bigger gaps, to look down to check that there’s no masonry that has become lodged in the cavity and is bridging the damp.

Managing ventilation heat loss and recovering the heat that is otherwise lost, are 2 factors that come together here. Airtight + MVHR is the base layer, and imho insulation levels are something to improve where you practically can, as the cherry on the cake. Airtight with a good quality, high recovery MVHR brings down the heat loads, so that boosts longevity of the ASHP. It’s all of this brought together that needs to be considered as “the answer”. Ones no good without the other.

The entire brick facade (either side of the bay and above) are as one. That’s how the upstairs brickwork is defying gravity. The first floor joist probably carry on and protrude out through gaps in the brickwork, like fingers, which forms the structure that makes the canopy. Other option is that there’s just a timber framework fixed to the brickwork, like a tent frame, and the downstairs bay forms some of the structural strength. A lot of these types of arrangements often used hardwood window frames to bear loads, and then they got cut out and replaced with uPVC, and then these show signs of failure associated with weight bearing on them (which they can’t cope with).

To wrap this up……. ”No” 👎

Have you got some pics of the ‘affected’ areas? Lapping it up may harbour water so we need context for some better answers

Percy-verance. Lol. Gotcha. 😉.

Driving rain is pissing in through all the missing pointing. Leave until after April and then sort it. Is the down pipe blocked or do you have any leaking joints? If so fix that immediately.

Percy time.

Managing draughts is the biggest issue here, so get that right and the lesser insulation will be of far less consequence. . If it’s blowing a hoolie through there, it won’t matter if you’ve got 400mm of insulation; it’ll still be cold because of ventilation heat losses.

This just needs a decent clean down, and a rebuild. Unless there’s a crack in the plastic, or the flush pipe was originally cut too short. If it leaks whilst flushing it’s either from the connection under the cistern, or at the conical washer that pushes into the small hole in the pan. I sometimes put a block of packaging type polystyrene behind the flush elbow, grid in place with some tape, so that when the pans offered back into the flush pipe it can’t move backwards.

You don’t need to change the cistern. Just get some good old CT1 and fit this one back in properly. Those big rubber washers get put in dry by most, and go the distance, but if they’re not put in right first time obvs they leak. Clean all components and dry everything off. Then rebuild with CT1 as the saviour, either side of that washer, on all joining faces, and do not over tighten it when reassembling.

The combi is full of weak components and no cylinder, ergo something would just go pop if it ever super-heated the water. Loads of failsafe avenues there. If you heat a sealed cylinder, it becomes a bomb.

You won't have a choice, if you put an immersion heater into a sealed system.

If you give these a decent flogging over the years they start to give up. I only use these for condensate or D2 these days, unless there's no other option, so they only see clear water and very low volumes or none at all (D2 in normal use is dry).

What he said.