Nickfromwales

You just need to unscrew the bush too, which either leaves you with a 1/2 or 3/4” bsp thread. You then just buy the reducing bush for £2 and screw the vent into that. PTFE is your friend here.

Near the beds, as a fail safe. If the existing one is a few years old, replace it. ’vans rely heavily on the airflow through floor / lower wall vents, which most block up in winter, to allow gas appliances like cookers and fires to breathe / vent. Modern boilers are “room sealed” and have a coaxial flue to outdoors; smaller inner pipe ejects the fumes and outer pulls air in for combustion. Balanced flues need air from the room. Stayed in a large static once, and it was like a colander lol. Wife was paranoid so refused to let me leave the gas fire on overnight in the living room (at night this was the adult / spare bedroom) and it was like a fridge once that got turned off.

Needs to be equal pressure opposing on all sides so the fitting and insert don’t deform.

Weak concrete pads at the start and end of the run, and then multiples more every 1200mm or less will make life easier here. Be mindful that you cannot compact / whack anything retrospectively, so do as much of that as you need to, prior to installing the pipe.

Just use trapped gulleys on the furthest one, to manage leaf litter / other debris?

@flanagaj Beware the plywood skirt preventing ventilation / adventitious airflow to any gas burning appliances. Please tell me you have more than one CO1 detector in there? Oh, and congrats on being on site, just be safe!

You can cut the T out and revert to compression 16mm fittings to connect this lot back up. You use 15mm comp joints but they have 16mm nuts / inserts / olives to adapt from 15>16mm. A lot of decent merchants carry these nowadays if you just ring around. Not sure how much pipe drops out of the T so hard to advise. Can you take that bit of insulation off to show what ‘we’re’ working with?

Get another vent and swap the gauge out. You have one on the red expansion vessel control group where you fill / top up.

1). Why? You don’t need this. Just close off one side of each of the 3 loops with the manual blank caps and jump on the ends of the manifold. Simple and a zero spend / rework.

🫡 If it’s to the EV then is the intention for the EV charger to have internet connectivity or for the cat cable to get you a set of CT clamps back at the head / meter? Doing this for a current client atm, but was thinking to run a second (separate, duct-grade) CAT6 to the carport to offer up a future WAP there. Cables cheap enough to put a redundant run in (<35m). So the hybrid cable @Adrian Walker linked to, is that cat cable intended for CT clamps? Only now dipping my toes in the EV charger waters…..

It’ll also be an acoustically poor solution, so with moderate to hard rain the sound will be notable to the room interior. A blown-in insulation would be the very best solution for weaving around the metal webs and those associated impossible to get to gaps, and give a huge boost to sound deadening. As @ProDave says, this is something you need to stop all wires with and get a solution to, before moving any further forwards. Just had Gordon Lewis on site pumping my current clients roof with Warmcell (blown-in cellulose) and he’s done a fantastic job getting every nook and cranny packed full of the good stuff. 👌 Abandon the rigid insulation in the roof, and preserve that for the vertical walls only. Arcitect will need to rerun the intersitial condensation analysis before pulling any trigger. Airtightness is moot, the original house will underperform most likely, just all about draft proofing at this point; plus obvs managing repeat cold bridging, and maxing out on the (properly installed) insulation.

Hi, and welcome aboard. Where is home for you then?

Is that a down pipe it eventually goes into, and is it metal?

Better plumber!

Common tbh. Water defo backs up and fills the combustion chamber. Loads of British Gas installs suffered from the connection (non return) of the condensate > soil pipes, mostly in cold snaps where the valve internals (massively reduced internal bore) freeze up. @LLL just cut or disconnect the condensate pipe under the boiler and let it drain into a bucket to get you back up and running Are you 100% sure this isn’t frozen? Or hasn’t been frozen and has now thawed out and cleared?