Nickfromwales

The pipe off the 110mm should be 50mm up to where it heads in to the bath, turning in on a T with a rodding access (cleaning eye) for maintenance. From the 50mm T you reduce to 40mm to get to the bath T, and then the 40mm pipe continues to the boiler. That then terminates at a 40mm T with the centre of the T having a 40 > 21.5mm reducer in it for the boiler condensate, and a 40mm air admittance valve to complete the run. Absolutely ZERO need for a GSR plumber, this will just add wasted expense.

If you’d have said that earlier, I’d have said don’t dab! Metal frame saves the day (or timber) at that depth.

Tough for them. Tell them you’ll be using insulated closers and then they WILL be using brackets, as per the rest of the world! Stop asking them, and tell them. For hefty bifolds this is the standard way to get a solid fixing.

No. The pipe running from the UVC / hot manifold is direct to the outlet. The HRC pump is on the return, at the UVC, so has no effect on the delivered lpm. Sizing the pipework is critical for differing distances from the plant / UVC, and working out which outlets are needed most frequently etc, so needs a bit of thought, but a good design will reap excellent results. As stated above, even taking the return off at a point not immediately behind the outlet has significant penalties, and my thoughts are why the feck go to all this trouble, cost etc and still suffer any kind of compromises?

I was an exhibitor for 5 years, and a huge amount of people got to me, after all the sales BS had been deeply embedded in them, and then (as a consultant) they got to speak to me in an impartial setting. Most left me and shook my hand, saying thanks for showing them how to filter out the crap they’d just been subjected to, by themselves. How can 7 different ASHP or MVHR suppliers all be “the best one on the market”…..? Ask them to prove it, and then they start sweating. I got approached by a mass home developer after I was recommended by an ICF supplier, to support with a ‘new direction’ they were exploring. Building with ICF, going airtight, MVHR as standard (only for exclusive offerings £750k and up iirc), but when I stated Part O, cooling, and that can of worms was placed on a cooperate table somewhere, that all went stone dead; the sausages just kept falling out of the factory and they were being snapped up by folk who didn’t know any different, so they had no interest in changing course or doing things better. If nobody is demanding it, I guess there’s hesitance to supply it.

Scrap the bigger trap, move to a P or bottle trap, enjoy life with a job well done. Traps are easy to ‘self clean’, so it’s no biggy.

I’d just say beware of anyone who is partisan because they’ve used one system. I’ve been fortunate to work with multiples, warts and all, so am giving a balanced and real life overview from hands-on experiences.

Respectfully, nobody puts a 40mm trap on a 32mm sink. Agreed, they should have just said no, but sales always starts with a “yes”, and the let down follows after a lot of laborious provocation.

I wasn’t referring to damp issues, just that during the construction phase there was a lot of rain that made its way indoors, or had soaked into the lower sections of the interior woodcrete leaf. Not an issue with EPS, but it’s less DIY friendly (depending on what block you go for). I'd steer well clear of Velox, had loads of blowouts with that.

Just reduce 40>32mm at the point these two meet, and fit a smaller trap? That’s what I do, as I never run long lengths of 32mm pipe for basins any more, always 40mm and then reduce at the bend where it turns from vertical to horizontal. I use a 40mm 90° bend with a 40>32mm reducer glued into the bend, and then a short piece of 32mm to an 1.5” trap. Simples. You can even just buy an anti-siphon 1.5” trap.

Is there mastic sealant under the cill? As it appears to be a unit that weeps out of that small shadow gap, onto the top of the cill and away, then I’d say you’ll be better off pumping a load of clear sealant under the cill to appease the BCO. They often don't / won’t comment on solutions or methodology as they get into trouble or can become liable if their suggestion fails. Some BCO’s are helpful and pragmatic, others are clueless, obtuse dickheads. As your builder if the weep / drip from the frame of the unit only comes out above the cill. If so, pump it full of clear frame sealant and you’ll be fine. Out of curiosity, has it been in for long and any signs of ingress to date? FYI, this is your builders problem to solve, not yours, so get them to take over solving the problem but tell them you want to discuss it before they “do something” and you don’t know what it was, plus your BCO will need to say they’re happy with it before it’s done; you could end up having to remove the sealant if they don’t like / approve it.

Kick them to the kerb ffs. This is ever so slightly important, so don’t give poor performance a second chance to romance you back into you using them. Put your efforts in now, and don’t just use them because of this initial familiarity, so far they’re not looking good at all. ”Bin”. Simple as.

Avoid that Sineat(?) adhesive. Was getting sucked dry in no time, and boards weren’t staying stuck to it if any open time had been introduced. Switched back to Gypsum and totally different results. Client bought Sineat stuff as it was the path of least resistance, but even their plasterboards were shit in comparison. If a roller dipped in 50/50 SBR/water solution, put on with a shaggy roller is cheap and simple, then I’d say sizing the walls the day before to bind the surfaces would be a no brainer. Not exactly something you can revisit, is it? Don’t get lazy now, get your finger back out and put in the time and effort 🫡. SBR is cheap enough, and can even be applied with a Hozelock spray bottle that you pump up, but you Siri need to take a soft brush to the wall (hence the roller application as it kills both birds).

Just using a porous block which has a continuous woodcrete bridge from external leaf to the internal leaf, doesn’t bode well. Needs a lot more detailing, such as parge coat for airtightness, but it’s just very poor vs EPS and let’s rainwater through which is annoying and caused delays on a previous project. If you’re rendering, it’s also much more of a process to get it to a point where the walls are flat / smooth enough to flat(single)-coat. Nudura are very good blocks, and are 8’ long so produce much straighter walls and fill area faster. PM me if you need a good ICF installer to do founds / frame / roof / floors & walls etc via one contractor.

….. no comment, lol which is very unlike me! Good that you feel confident doing the filter check, nothing better than that sense of accomplishment and it’s good to get to grips with simple shit you can check yourself (like dipping the oil in the car etc). Quite a few folk on here mention the Heat Geeks for having a decent installer network, so maybe start looking into getting some names and numbers. I think the HG’s are middlemen, so expect to pay them and have a 3rd party subby turn up. That’s what happened on the job I’ve just been on, also felt a little “rushed” on the full install with some schoolboy errors. The boss of the firm that sub’d was a good egg and quite knowledgeable in the cold light of day, but they are very much in and out to make money imho. When asked to do some extras, it was a firm “no thanks”. The lad (+1) that were left on site were nice guys, so as a minimum at least they didn’t offend! Russian roulette it seems, but if you saw the job I’ve been on this week you’d consider yourself bloody lucky. Absolute pile of dogshit, so I’ve ripped the lot out and done it all from scratch. Not one bit could be retained, just a joke, and the previous “engineer” on his mother’s side just left a couple of Boy Scouts behind who didn’t even own pipe clips. I mean not one single pipe was clipped, including the D2 discharge, with the weight of that having broken the sunfish into two halves which were just hanging a few inches from each other. Theres always someone worse off etc, but just an embarrassing offering of people with great websites and shiny new vans paid for by unsuspecting victims of underwhelming cock ends. Choose well!! 🙏