Nickfromwales

Why not Panasonic? Cools out of the box, very good units and quiet too. Done a few of them (and some Stiebel Eltron units too) and I’m very impressed for the money tbh.

If you set off at 00:30 you'll be on site for 07:00

The crack is very likely to be installer error imho. They have likely screwed through the frame and into the masonry way too close to the corners; the effect of then overtightening these fixings just places huge force of the welded joints, forcing them to pop open. A way to prove (or disprove) this would be to remove the glazed unit and inspect where the fixings have been placed.

It can be set in behind the PB here as there's 60mm to play with to the back of the PB as above As for the adjustable lug, good point, but if you use a spirit level sat across some long plate screws you can get it spot on with near zero effort.

https://www.belmdoors.com Any takers here?

Not many would take the risk of omitting the secondary (industry standard) line of defence; the DPC at floor level. There are no guarantees with the subfloor DPM/DPC so it’s certainly not an abundance of caution, more a sensible, standard methodology which give you the obligatory belt, and accompanying braces Do as the Welsh fella says, and you’ll live happily (and dry) ever after. The end.

These do look very ‘cool’. All you need is a bloody good metal roofer who can fab these kind of things in their sleep.

PIR tends to need to be mechanically fixed though, whereas insulated XPS backer boards can be bonded on and won’t pull away. With PIR you’re reliant on the foil staying ‘fully stuck’ to the core, and that’s not always great after cutting it into small sections and the foils began to tear away. Any box would be better than metal here afaic, so if there’s > 60mm to play with then a fast fix box would work well too.

The kicker with leaving pipes exposed to connect to later down the line is preserving their condition. So add that to the list of reason not to go for the joints under the slab / screed option. But it is an option.

For a sanity check here, the 16mm couplers I have used a good number of times to do repairs (which have all been buried and covered over) are still A1 today. If these are made off carefully then there is no more reason for these to fail as the ones made off to the manifold; difference being the ones in the slab are never going to be subject to mechanical damage (being hit or pressed up against etc). You absolutely can do this, if it’s the only option. If you lift these out of the floor somewhere where you can then connect to them later on, you’ll have to make those upstands off so they are T’s with air bleed (vents) as this will be a trap for air. UFH pumps around very slowly, so these would airlock if you don’t have provision to routinely vent them (or you can fit automatic air vents which do this whenever air is caught). The pressure in the UFH circuits will never see more than 3bar, and the normal operating pressure is 1-1.5bar, so these don’t have the same as cold mains pressure or higher to deal with. How far is it from the break in the floor to the manifold location? You could fit flexible conduits and do more loops of a smaller (12mm) pipe which would easily pull through 25mm flexible conduit if you lay them sympathetically.

Great post, thanks for sharing here. Can you use the ASHP to cool? Doing that for a few hours in the afternoon to early evening may help knock off 1° which would be quite significant for having cooler rooms when you are looking retire each evening.

Just make sure you foam or mastic any gaps either side of the blocks so the SLC doesn’t just disappear down south.

Yup. CT1 to hold both the XPS to the steel and the box to the XPS. Don’t use bare XPS as it’s quite friable, get something like Jackoboard or tile backer board, the type with the grey gritty surface coating to accent adhesives, and that’ll hold up much better. I’d use a pvc conduit back box here, and defo not a metal one here. You can still bury that and plaster to the edges of it, so zero chance of cold getting any further from the steel than you want. The conduit boxes aren’t as fragile as the regular surface mountable back boxes, as they’re made from a different, softer plastic. Link Tbh the entire rising faces of this steel should be clad with the insulation material, not just where the socket box is.

You should have told him he'd be sharing it if he didn't pull his tampon out....... This is what happens when the foot soldiers get too much authority. Probably the only pipe he's laid for some time lol.

Don't tell your wife I said this, but you need to go grab the credit card for next years holidays, and to shoot down the big boys tool shop with it, and get fully kitted out asap lol. If there's one hole in your new oversized tool belt that is empty, you're in deep trouble It's easier to ask for forgiveness than get permission !