Nickfromwales

PVC trunking?

That one is DIY friendly and at a price even you’d like

Seems to be very few instances though? Ive been quite intensively ‘around’ a respected member of the STA and a major supplier (German gear) and I’ve not heard any of them over the years mention panels going en-flambé or DC isolators doing likewise. If these are disconnected under load then expect the worst, but that’s damage done in ignorance by dimwits or idle thumbs.

If one link wire is dead in the ring you can omit it and reduce the 32a breaker to 20a and run it as a radial.

Can you bond cement board to them and use micro cement for the look? Is the carport attached to the house?

Do not paint the floor! You’ll have to scrub it all back off to stick anything down. Buy some student carpet and make runners to go in the middle of thoroughfares and to sort bedrooms do same wall to wall. You’ll spend a few hundred on decent paint, so use that on 2nd hand carpet or very cheap carpet (foam backed). Painting is a very bad idea afaic, and will just keep wearing away if water based. If oil based or 2-pack, it’s there forever and will cost many more hundreds to get rid of. If laying Lino or other bonded flooring you may be able to stick it to a good quality paint product, but then you’ll need to clean / decontaminate / seal / prep / prime / apply the paint so it is not going to lift or degrade before relying on it long term under your eventual new floors. All this is time and cost, so just buy some cheap crap carpet or Lino is my advice.

Can you ask their advice and then the whole install will be more aligned? Basically as soon as the DC strings leave the roof and enter the building you’re into protecting them, big time. There’s no protection at this stage from high voltage DC, which is nasty stuff. Usually, before the aforementioned shakeup, we’d fit rotary isolators in attics or eaves or cupboard spaces to convert the strings to SWA, and then run that to the plant rooms / inverter elsewhere. On the one I mention I was told that would no longer suffice, so I had to run 25mm galv conduit from the ceiling void to the plant room and put the isolator on the end of the conduit; from there I imagine high impact pvc conduit or trunking would suffice (not sure what was actually done on this particular clients project as I left after 1st fix).

The competent person has the final say, so +1 to this. Who's the installer? Ask them, as anything else is conjecture or opinion, even regs are bendable or get garnished with a bit more belt & braces. You must live in a rough area if the 5 year olds are running around with TCT tipped Crayola's lol. He doesn't mean it, he prob got beaten up by the kids and his crayons nicked

Clients already bought the putty pads. 👍

Yes, saw those too. Some walls are 11mm OSB plus 12.5mm board, others just board, and some double DB board over Reducto framework. I’ll do a proper shopping list when 2nd fix comes about.

The regs have changed a fair bit here for DC runs in domestic dwellings, so on the last one (summer '24) I ran galv conduit internally to convey the 2x red and 2x black 4mm DC feeds from the roof to the rotary isolators in the GF plant space. Best to double-check with an up-to-date installer. If you need one let me know as I have a very good solar chap who works nationwide.

Long beam needs to go in first, as the two others appear to then hang off it. You wouldn't want to be hindered by the other smaller beams when getting the big ones in position, so that's what I'd do.

What does the manufacturers installation guide say about the heat pump firing into a wall only 600mm away? Usually they want much more distance there; Stiebel Eltron want 2000mm for eg.

Wanted to do this for current clients job, but acoustics were very important to him so 2nd fix will be a PITA. Tight cuts and all foamed out etc. Will get those Appleby boxes, the wings look much better on those than the ones I used last.

Use green moisture boards (unless you need to use pink fire rated?) and only skim it a few days before the door is due?