Nickfromwales

Is it a straight run? With 50mm fall I'd say it would work. There, I said it. I'll get a kicking here from most for saying that, but then they'd have to shut up and buy the drinks when it is demonstrated and proves to actually be reliable and functionable. The energy / velocity of the flushed water is quite significant, and when you add in the fact this drops vertically first, gaining further momentum, you'll see this will be shifting at a rate of knots when you flush the WC (or "bog" if you're from my neck of the woods). If it really matters to you then set up a WC in the room loose, run the pipe, see how it performs, decide if you're happy. Proof will always be in the pudding, regardless of what's on paper.

At least with a modular building it can be sold on later to recoup some lost costs, but a free or close to free garage for a campervan is a bit unrealistic to be honest. £600 pcm would rent you something probably close to what you want (so x that x the number of years and then rethink your expectations a bit?) My basic man-shed at the side of the house cost me around £3k to do DIY, 7.2m x 3.6m footprint with metal profile roof, 4x2 timber frame with 18mm OSB interior for racking and same floor (wish I'd gone ply on the floor!!!!). Bottom line is, it needs a sensible budget. I'd start looking for a used small commercial metal building and modify it to fit. An afternoon with a metal cutting circular saw / recip, and some mates around with free beer and food etc should suffice.

Before or after you show her the invoice for the window

You’re missing the size of the atomised product. Look at the pics, this stuff gets into cracks you can’t even see. It’ll shoot around the back of the boards, down its neck, up its skirt, into nooks and crannies you didn’t even know you had. It’s a crazy thing to see tbh, but take my word for it, it’ll get into everywhere. Also? Cracks in the plasterboard? Erm, plaster, 2 coats, and paint, several coats = zero cracks.

This bit of pipe needs to be longer. The water zooming around that bend will still be doing loop the loop, so will want to spray into the tundish vs fall straight into it.

Won’t matter one jot. It’ll be a pita to work out as they both just dribble out, not open full wallop.

Not if really as the results can only be better, the more area covered by dabs, and if the electrics and plumbing 1st fix is done then less trade interference after (risk of them undoing the goodness and then covering it over). AB do say to get all 1st fix in, including MVHR ductwork to outside, but obvs you need to plug up everything connected to the MVHR or the product will push through the ductwork, unit, filters, HEx, condensate and more = MVHR death. Depends who’s on site, who’s going to preserve everything as done, so basically you can decide this yourself. On the project I shared pics of, the PB was off, but the client and trades were well programmed with the ‘not damaging of the AT layers’.

@craig is the in-house window wizard, so hopefully he will drop in when you can post something for us to comment on.

Yea, same here, given the new information about rads slowly getting warm. Still stinks of poor circulation. @EinTopaz, has this ever run correctly, or is this something recent / new? Have you stripped and cleaned the Maga-clean? edit: the under-boiler valves are correct and fully open.

@Shan2010 is it an RCD, MCB, or RCBO that’s tripping? Show a pic of the offending item and post it up here if you’re not sure.

On new appliances there is an oil coating sprayed onto the elements to prevent corrosion during transit / storage etc. With 2 BNIB ovens on one clients project, they reported trying to use them for the 1st time, each on their own 16/20a RCBO’s, and both ovens had tripped in the same (attempted) cooking session. I went to investigate, as this was a brand new house where I’d done a full 3 phase electrical installation, so I assumed that the oil was the culprit or a contractor cockup; as 2 ovens on the same phase were popping at the same time it was mind boggling…. Turns out my initial suspicion was correct. I removed one oven, lifted the earth connection, and fired it up. Ran perfectly, stunk the room out for 15 mins, and then I reconnected the earth whilst it was heating and issue gone. Left it to cool down and reinstalled. Ran it again from cold, all good. Same with the other one. Same results. Neff units, so not Howdens specials by Lamona, btw! @Shan2010, is the unit on a moulded plug or made off to an oven switch (20a isolator like a light switch)? See if lifting the earth (you need to be competent with electrics to attempt this!!) will resolve it and go from there, but only really relevant if the oven feature is being used for the first time.

If so, I’d get the electrics 1st fix done, and get the PB installed, and then get AB in. Before plastering.

The cold streak at the top of the wall is, imo, being caused by cold airflow coming from the cavity in the outside wall, and that’s being drawn up to the ridge by draughts / convection. Dropping the ceiling (on the vekux elevation) would do very little afaic, as the thermal image doesn’t show this section to be adversely cold. You pointed the IR camera at purple, but there’s black which will be colder again, and as heat rises in the room that should be the same surface temp as the ceilings, but it’s not. You can use ‘tapping on the wall’ to located the dabs, plus possibly also the IR camera. You can then drill 6mm holes in the wall between dabs and inject expanding foam. This would fill voids without removing the PB. This would need to be done well, right into the corners, and all the way down each side at the internal junction with the outside wall, in order to have any practical effect. Skirting boards can come off and you can foam behind there too, if the issue is more persistent, as an additional way to attack this without doing major work. The object would be to stop airflow (thermal tenting) behind the PB, which then sucks the heated air out of the room and blows it to the ridge and to the clouds (24/7/365). The significance of the cold at the top of that wall suggests there’s a massive cold bridge, or there’s a LOT of cold air blowing a hooly through there. Ventilation heat loss (blowing a hooly) is where my money would be. The least intrusive way to see what going on at the top of that wall would be to remove some roof tiles, and peel back the membrane, and get in there from above. May just need some more rockwool stuffing in there, but it would need to be done carefully to not make it worse…..eg you stop the cold air flow but then the insulation bridges damp. Hope that’s cheered you up!!

I watched the video. That’s basically kettling, in a more modern sense of it. Shooting up, nowhere to go, shooting back down again.

I say it’s creeping out, vs going somewhere. These are my assumptions from the info I’m seeing. First place I’d look would be isolation valves. Then I’d switch off every rad. Then I’d fully open both valves of the rad nearest the boiler. Then do the observations over again to see what is actually going on here. Another option is a duff pump. Another, which I’ve had with WB before, is the pump relay on the PCB giving sporadic intermittent power out, like a child flicking a light switch to annoy you, which took ages to figure out. Kept the pump active just enough to have the boiler fooled, so it didn’t lock out. Temp was bobbing up and down like a yo-yo.