Nickfromwales

Looks like that would just get you where you can use push fit. Remember that you need to buy a decent quality valve to bury in the wall as spares may be an issue later down the line. If a client is undecided I just use these https://ebay.us/m/slX6ED But check prices of the face plate that you then need to go with it. For eg Link eBay / Gumtree / farcebook marketplace are your friends here. Link

You could clad the whole exterior of the untreated timber frame with a fireproof cement board. Then just cover it over with the cheapest cladding you can obtain. Have you explored this option at all? The cement board would add racking strength so may allow you to go for less materials in the TF construction, as if this is a taller than normal building then you’ll really need to rack the walls if going TF. Cement board would kill two birds with one stone there, but consider the weight when “designing” the roof.

Yup, just you’ll be routing out the back of the plasterboard to get pipe and fittings covered, particularly problematic if you’re using push fit plumbing instead of soldering copper pipes. If you can set it back another 10-15mm that would make plumbing much easier, and allow you to use push fit.

I’ve copied this from a stray thread, as it’s better off here @Garage build, so folk have the back story and you don’t have to explain it all over again Hi I’m considering using ……. Metal Roof Sheet (34/1000 Box Profile) Polyester Paint Coated 0.7mm Juniper Green - 2400mm They say they are “Independently tested: to current CE EN 14782 requirements” What European fire resistance compliance category A1 A2 BCDE would this type of metal sheeting comply with? I'm considering using this sheet metal material as wall and roof cladding when constructing a garage LBH 5.2x4.3x2.8m to the ridge line. Untreated rough sawn timber stud partition frame and roof timbers will all be coated in Thermoguard exterior fire retardant fluid. (Two coats) prior to application of metal cladding to meet the 30min requirement. all materials and design must comply with the latest building regs technical handbook non domestic (Scotland) Thank you steve

You’re asking a modern juke box to give random answers it finds from people giving random answers. Ffs. Leave it alone and remain as a human. Ai told me to pull you over this, so don’t shoot the messenger-robot who’s eyes just went from blue to red. 👀

Ultimate sacrifices for the tightness of air. 🫡👊👌🤝 Good lad.

Pmsl

(expletive deleted)ing hell. You’ve just use your annual quota of questions in one go. You can post again in 2026 ok.

He adds 30%……

I could always borrow some of your industrial strength “anti-itch” cream?

Strictly zero access during the treatment. One guy went in at the end wearing a respirator to open all the windows to do the purge.

What are the UFH pipes sat in? Screed or in aluminium plates, or an overlay system? Any clues? Defo down a notch on the pump, and go from there. With that long a time for it to heat up it sounds like possibly screed over concrete as that’s taking a bloody long time to get there! >6hrs would bother most, and feeling the heat within 4 should be the norm.

Yup. Ask to see the start result, and just watch how quickly the magic begins to happen.

Allen key may be the way, as some are held on by grub screws.

lol. Yes, I don’t think the Ming vases were out the day I was there They can do a finished house, but the list for prep is ‘a little longer’, but it can be done. This is great news for anyone doing a retrofit MVHR and who wants the best results possible. Just needs dust-sheets a plenty