Nickfromwales

If you use it that infrequently then I’d just do a chemical flush and call it a day? Time to downsize and start looking for a nice bungalow!!

It’s still classed as AC coupled micro-generation, so is notifiable afaik.

Maybe best to fill up and run a sludge remover chemical and leave to run for the recommended period of running time, then drain down and refill a couple of times, then treat with inhibitor? You’ll be running the heating for winter? What cost are you referring to? If you don’t run it then you can’t chemically treat it (DIY flush), and you will then have to pay up to 4 figures for an invasive power flush by a couple of plumbers.

Norrsken just installed on my current clients project (via Elite). Excellent team of fitters, great work ethic, everything foamed and sealed meticulously. The masonry was difficult to read and that resulted in the sliders needing pushing out one side by <10mm to square them up (you’d have seen it with the EWI so I pushed for them to return to make the adjustment). A bit of push / pull at the outset of the request, where they escalated it back to Norrsken. A nice lady called up to get the issue understood from their point of view, and then Norrsken paid Elite to return to sort the issue out. All dealt with very quickly, efficiently, and effectively, with the minimum of fuss. You have nothing to worry about here afaic. This client made the final payment a couple / few days before the delivery was due. Delivery was smooth and went well, with Elite supervising and taking full ownership of the delivery / logistics / manual handing etc. 10/10 from me.

Nothing is done on here for reward. Donations are made without provocation unless the BH coffers get super-low; at that point we put up a banner to request some funds incoming.

Then on your own head be it. Cant have your cake and eat it, in a nutshell. If they’re £10k over the uk national average then its £10k / 180 days of delay. I think you’re spilling hairs personally, after the horse has bolted, after accepting costs incoming; those which you took as acceptable as being based on trust and convenience.

Just good (robust) woodwork and framing here for 2 x framed WCs and then plasterboard and tiles. Thin bead of sikaflex / CT1 on the metal of the frame and use that to bond the PB to the frame, and it’s rock solid for life.

@Rick734 Check out my info here. Searching will dig up some others

I’ve never used anything more than plasterboard over the last >25 years of doing high end bathrooms.

Did you report it?

In the med you can sit outside and enjoy the views, in the uk you’d get wet and cold doing so, ergo ‘we’ choose portals to view the outdoors / scenery and small windows don’t lend themselves very well to this pursuit. Solar reflective glazing works very well, and only needs buying once / is zero maintenance. Buying heat to offset the reduction in winter solar gain is not worth the argument, in a well insulated, cheap to run dwelling anyways, so afaic fill your boots.

@Dee, who fitted the boiler and did they flush it?

You can use cable ties and bases on things like MVHR ducts, as they’re not heavy, but obvs no good for soil pipes etc. No specific regs afaic, just more common sense and a robust approach to resolve this. Soil pipes need clips or banding, and as water changes direction you need to arrest any movement that would eventually cause a fitting to come away from the pipe. Water pipes have clips for the pipe size, so easy solution there.

The top rail of the manifold has flow meters which show litres per minute per loop. When running, can you see these moving and what do they show? The hope would be that the ones for the rooms not heating up would show no flow, meaning you have airlocks or a poorly balanced setup that needs tweaking. The worst outcome may be that the actuators on the bottom rail have snuffed it and are no longer opening the loops to the affected rooms. Any info on the first question re the flow of water would be a good place to start.