Temp

We have two UFH loops in our dining room and I noticed today only one was getting warm. Discovered the pin on the manifold valve stuck down which I know is a common problem. I removed the extension pin and its guide to get to the real pin and managed to free it up. Problem is the loop is still not getting hot. There are no flow gauges on this FAR manifold but I can feel the flow pipe to the loop isn't getting hot. So question is this.. If the pin is free to move does that mean the floor loop must be blocked or can it still be an issue with the valve? I have valves on order as they are quite cheap. The house is on three levels and this is one of two zones on the middle level not the lowest. System was dosed up with plenty of corrosion inhibitor so I'm hoping that's not the problem.

Silly question but are you getting any heat to the rads? If some then with one stat it sounds like a balancing issue. If none it sounds like a system issue like a valve off?

Did the first one get cancelled? If not I would tell them you are building to the first approval and then when finished make a new application to convert the loft to bedroom. That might have worked out cheaper than paying the CIL.

Perhaps this is a better link.. https://www.doordeals.co.uk/product/external-oak-pair-maker?srsltid=AfmBOorOtk1mFOcjaro12yfRj_4w77K3aYc1yNURf0wuRe2Fl5lqYVmN "This pair maker will allow the creation of a door pair with any 44mm thick external doors within our range"

Deleted my original reply as I missed the bit about them being for fire doors. I can find 45mm like this but I assume aren't good enough for fire doors? https://www.davesdoors.co.uk/oak-door-pair-maker-3274-p.asp?srsltid=AfmBOors4zsjOLem-9uiJPEG7YWrJ56fC_ONw08DUBVxaAaRmiuvaYjP

Temporary buildings for construction site workers and storage are addressed under Schedule 2, Part 4, Class A of the Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (England) Order 2015 (GPDO) but there are conditions... You could try quoting that at them. Chances are the neighbiur will complain again when you finish building and don't remove them. If they do I would then try claiming they are Permitted Development.

I think I would make sure it looks a bit less like a ground mounted array and more like a building with PV on the roof.... As I can see some jobs worth arguing it's really a ground mounted solar array which I think needs PP close to the boundary. Perhaps give it two or three timber clad walls and a brick BBQ?

If the tiles were laid direct onto chipboard I wonder how they did the fall in the shower? Perhaps the shower itself has some sort of shower tray under it that's not adequately supported?

Apparently there are heat tolerant versions of spade connectors used in ovens. I thought it was just the insulation that was heat tolerant but some say it the connector itself.

Did you mean you have or haven't filled it with water? Pressure Relief Valves can be temperamental. Possibly just got a faulty one. If they are ever required to open (eg due to over pressure) they are prone to leaking even after the cause of the over pressure is removed.

Do these +1 I'd have it out to see if there is lots of scale, perhaps descale it. Perhaps replace the starter capacitor. If that doesn't work replace the pump.

If Building Control are involved they might lean on you to dig it out to put more insulation in the floor than you have height for. I'm out of date but I think there are/were rules for where things aren't economic or impractical to upgrade. We have a concrete beam and block floor with 80mm high timber "battens" and 80mm PIR insulation between. Then 21mm thick Engineerd Oak glued together and secret nailed to the battens. In our case there is also wet UFH with heat spreader plates in/on the insulation. Wish we had fitted more like >120mm of insulation. I think Building Regs require at least 18mm thick floor boards so beware if you were thinking of using 15mm Engineered flooring - you might need another layer of OSB or ? below it.

Wherever you go its worth discussing the grade with the company, possibly even testing a sheet. Some of the WBP out there is worse than Wheatabix in hot milk

Perhaps check that the cold supply to the house can deliver enough for 2+ showers at decent pressure. Then what @SimonD said. Think you will need a decent sized tank.

Didn't they take pictures?