Temp

As I recall there are two families of sealer, think it's acid and non acid? Someone will remember which is better.

Its difficult to know if you should stir things up. One option might be to ask the Chairman of the Planning Committe to remind members that if they have submitted a private objection to an application before its even discussed by the Committee then this could be considered predetermination. You could do that anonymously. Otherwise I guess you could refer to the objection and ask the chair to clarify if Mr X will be participating in the decision making process as a member of the Committe or as a private individual?

I asked ChatGPT...

Seems to work on my phone...

Yeah the biodiversity stuff is more work. I'd suggest trying to find one from a similar application.

Can't comment on CAR but the landscaping plan shouldn't be too hard to put together and get approved. Just mark up a site plan. Normally you write "Tree A" or "Hedge B" on the plan then on a separate "Planting schedule" you list each one in a table...."Tree A to be a standard size xyz species" or "Hedge B to be two rows of native hedge plant (whips) planted 60cm apart and protected from rabbits by plastic spirals". That sort of thing. As its a planning condition any VAT paid on trees can be reclaimed if there is a landscaping plan.

Yeah that's just wrong. Should apply the adhesive to the wall and remove excess with a notched trowel held at near 90 degrees to the wall. This maximises the height of the adhesive ridges. When the tile is pressed on the ridges of adhesive spread out filling the valleys so you end up with fairly high % coverage. Not 100% though as that would use up all the depth adjustment available. Some tiles or stone need to be back buttered (as well) with a thin flat layer of adhesive.

I use a notched trowel and a straight block of wood to level tiles with neighbours in two directions. Reckon I could do better than your photo and I'm not a professional.

Looks good. I think I would have moved the tiles about half a tile left or right to eliminate the thin cuts.

That's ok but the mortgage still needs to be secured against the correct bit of land. There can sometimes be issues with the land registry if you split land but want to own both plots. Depends if there are any covenants or easements.

Ask the surveyor to comment. How can he not notice 25mm over 1m.

The mortgage needs to be secured on the land. They can't do that as it's effectively undefined until you split it. You don't want it secured on the whole plot either, only on the bit where the new house will be. This is all normal and will apply to all lenders

There are several low profile solutions for UFH but unless you have at least 80mm of insulation below the concrete I would avoid them. We have 80mm and wish I had fitted more. If you really want UFH think about taking up the floor.

More insulation and avoid wood windows. Had enough of painting.

I agree with others.. 150-200 mm PIR and UFH in screed of 70-80mm Avoid Anhydride (spelling?) screed because it's hard to tile onto. Form expansion gaps at doorways don't screed right through as it will crack. The expansion gaps is just a deliberate gap so you ensure it's straight not curving into one room or the other. If carpeting go for special low TOG underlay and keep total TOG to 2.0 or less. Stone and tile is great with UFH.