newhome

The majority of the FIT payment is made based on generation for which a meter is installed. Export is deemed to be 50% of generation (on the original FIT scheme anyway). If they visit and you’ve only optimised then fine (assuming the rules allow for this) but if they visit and you’ve stuck more panels up then you are screwed.

If they think you are generating too much you get a letter saying they want to visit ...

^^ this! But may = will. They know exactly how much you should be generating!

When you mention someone in a post using the @ sign you need to select the name from the list that drops down so that it turns blue and they then get a notification. See how @PeterW is at the bottom of the list when you type @ followed by his username? As you type the list gets more refined and when the name appears you need to click on his name to make it work. If you just type it without selecting from the list it doesn’t work properly.

I had a house with a flat roof (fibreglass) years ago. Bloody thing leaked. The one and only time I’ve ever gone up a ladder to roof level (carrying stuff too!) and that was only because I was too poor to get someone to fix it (mortgage interest rate hit 15%!). I did manage to stop it leaking fairly miraculously but didn’t come off that roof until I had finished as I knew I would never be brave enough to go back up again as it was terrifying lol.

Just as a small digression, back in the day flat roofs used to be anathema to most people. They invariably leaked, and it wasn't a question of if, but when. I've noticed that many people seem to incorporate flat roofs into their new build or extension with open arms these days. Is the construction different or more superior now thus making them so much better than their older, leaky relatives?

Good (re the joking part) and "NIMBY alert" to the Sevenoaks bit. I always remember wandering up and down Sevenoaks High Street when I was in my early 20s and looking to buy my first home. I went into all of the estate agents there. All were quite helpful apart from one woman whose snottiness was off the scale. She looked down her nose at me like I was something on the bottom of her shoe and said that they didn't cater for that sort of price bracket there. Made me certain that I would never ever use her company when I was in a position to do so. Hope the snotty cow got laid off when the housing market crashed (not long after that as it happens).

Anyone who judges you by what car you drive isn't worth worrying about . And I'm sure that they didn't care anyway. BuildHubbers aren't like that in general IMO.

We bought an Ifor Williams twin axle trailer for £900 (the car we had could tow it fine but do check the kerbweight etc of the larger ones). Used it initially to move some things up from Kent (the rest went into storage). After that it was used throughout the build for collecting things, doing tip runs etc. Sold it 5 years later for £1100 having used it constantly during that time.

That's interesting but I suppose that's no different to my aim of having the setback temp lower than the floor temp would drop down to during the setback period. That's going to be my strategy to start with this year anyway, ie to see when I need the temp to kick back in to bring it up to 20C downstairs before I get home. I also need to see when I should start the setback period as like you say the floor doesn't cool instantly but takes some time. Unfortunately my stats only have a 5 / 2 setting which is a pain as I work from home at least 2 days a week so want the temp a bit different then. All trial and error this year having lived with it being cream crackered for years!

Do you really physically 'turn it off' or do you just set the temperature to be lower at different points that has the effect of 'turning it off'?

Have to admit I find rads easier to get my head round in terms of getting the temperature I want when I want it. They seem a lot more controllable than UFH. I'm still not convinced by UFH tbh, although I have yet to see it work properly here as by the time it was fixed the weather changed not long afterwards and the heating has been switched off ever since. The conundrum will be how to set the temperatures so that it's warm enough downstairs when I want it toasty in the evenings (20 degrees) but guzzles the minimum amount of electric since that's not exactly a cheap way of heating a house that's not built to passive standards. So what do I set the overnight and 'when I'm not here' temperatures to? I think I had them set to 18 before but not sure if I should let it go lower than that. Will have to have a play I guess.

So, lots of comments complaining about people turning up stats 'to make it heat up quicker' so it seems to be a common issue. Why therefore isn't that one of the main criteria for any heating system? 0 to 60 (or 20C anyway) in less time than it takes for someone to complain or start fiddling with things ... ??

We prefer to store it up and then when it reaches an explosive level vent it in the direction of an injudicious comment from a male!

The problem with most air con controls at work is that there are no instructions. By the time multiple people have tried to fiddle with them it’s either freezing cold or boiling hot. I’ve still no clue how the ones work in the conference rooms. No one I’ve ever been in the rooms with seems to have any clue either. A nice little ‘how too’ guide would help as they don’t appear to be particularly intuitive.

It means STFU and don’t pass comment on anything, least of all complain about windows being open at that point or otherwise! ?

I was talking to a guy at work yesterday. I said that I was thinking of putting the heating on as it was circa 18.5 - 19 degrees in the house now and I prefer the living space to be 20. He said he would have the windows open at 20 lol, he prefers 16. Horses for courses ?

I’m with you there. I could never understand how the hubby could shower in stupidly lukewarm water. Unless it’s hot it doesn’t work for me. I always have to override the safety thing on the controls and click it above the level that’s supposed to be considered safe. That’s cold!

What are your plans with the rest? Tiles and paint above? Do you intend doing anything to the doors? Need to have a plan that ties it all together now you are onto the decorative part.

You are a bad person @PeterW!!! Karma gonna get ya! I’m sure Mrs @joe90‘s contact details must be somewhere! ?

Puts it into perspective when I compare the quote I got of 14.6k to install an 11.2kw ASHP ... ?

Oh dear, what’s he done? ?

Looks good! And breathe ?.

We had the thing about checking it all and potentially paying for what was missing. We essentially told the guy to F off. Nothing was missing. Relations had well and truly broken down by then anyway and we ended up paying him more than agreed when the fictitious weekly hire charge appeared from nowhere. What can they do if you don’t pay? Take you to court? You’ve dispensed with their services by then.

Go get a large neighbour to sit on it while you screw it to the base to ?. Or get the heaviest stuff you can find to put on it.