iMCaan

Thank you @Bonner @Carrerahill I think temporary staircase will work perfectly as we already have the appropriate timber onsite. Also, it doesn't look too difficult to make. Thank you.

Hi Self build: detached house I have a small dilemma in installing UFH, staircase and windows and would appreciate any suggestions. I have been told that the staircase would need to be fitted before windows so that window fitters can easily carry the heavy glass upstairs. However, before fitting the staircase we need to install the UFH (insulation and liquid screed) to finish floor level. For UFH we need the house to be water tight (windows and doors fitted). What would be the best way to approach this? Thanks

Apologies for late reply (again). Thanks JohnMo. I will check that out.

It appears Wunda has miscalculated 21.56kW. Robbens Systems have stated GF Total heat load 5.01 kW FF Total heat load 6.51 kW Another company as stated Total Heat Load 17412 W It still appears a lot more load than your house.

Thanks @JohnMo Pipe centres: 150mm Estimated UFH project loading in KW : 21.56kW Where will the one thermostat be placed, near the staircase? Thanks

Thanks but I'm not sure I completely understand when you say keep it simple. Do you mean there are fewer thermostats (e.g. one thermostat per room?)? And that the wiring centre is wired such that it controls all pipe loops in a room at once? In some rooms, there are more than one pipe loop. Does it mean that I need to put one single pipe loop per room? How would you simplify the attached design, in particular the open plan L shaped room? Should it have one or 3 thermostats and how many pipe loops? Wunda have suggested two manifolds per floor (GF 7 & 10, FF 5 and 10). Does simplifying mean we can have fewer port manifolds? As part of simplifying are self regulating actuator valves required? I have already asked them not to include smart hub & boiler switchs, mart connection box and wundaSmart square thermostat with probe. We will have a gas boiler and water cylinder to feed the UFH. Thanks

@MMcGill Thanks for creating this post and others for sharing your comments/suggestions. I too have the same issue. What thickness should the insulation be on the beam and block first floor? After reading the comments in the post, I'm now considering 25mm thick PIR insulation board instead of 50mm with liquid screed. @MMcGill Did you go with UFH on the first floor? What thickness insulation did use? Was it above the beam blocks or in the voids below? Would love to hear about your UFH setup on the first floor? Much appreciated. Thanks

An update... I met couple of qualified electricians to discuss wiring the house. Both have not installed or wired solar panels before. Both electricians are not keen on installing the solar system. Also, I asked them about wiring UFH and both insisted that plumbers do UFH wiring. Is this true? Thanks

Thanks all. I've had a £16.3k quote from a MCS contractor for 16 x Trina Vertex S 425W system. Their quote includes an itemised pricing and schematic diagram. I've found mostly all items on Midsummer. I've compared the Midsummer retail prices with the MCS contractor prices and the MCS has put a 20% margin on top of Midsummer prices (retail price not trade). I'm sure CMS contractor is buying at trade prices so they will be getting at least 10% trade discount. I asked him about installation and commission only (£1500 quoted) but he said they do but they don't put a priority on that as it’s usually not worth it for them. I think it was his way of telling me "no". An online store (Solar Energy Store) have quoted just under £9k (13 (according them 16 panels won't fit on my house roof) x Jinko Tiger Solar 430W ) for in-roof system plus £2500 for installation and commissioning. They are offering MCS certification for £500 if I self install the system. Still waiting to find a sparky (non MCS contractor) who can install and commission the solar system.

Apologies for late reply, had some build issues. Thank you all for your comments. I have contacted some MCS approved installers for installation and commissioning price. Also, I've contacted some sparky's for first and second fix electrics. I have asked some of them whether they can install and commission solar panel system. No doubt buying the panels from Midsummer are a lot cheaper. It'll be interested to see the price difference (installation and commissioning only) between MCS approved and sparky electricalcompetentperson.co.uk.

Thank you all. your comments and suggestions are really beneficial. Highly appreciated. Quick Google search returns "MCS is not a mandatory or legal requirement for system installation". However, I'm not sure whether the building regs. officer will be OK with it? £120, that's way less than half the price I've been quoted. I'll try to find a sparky. @Dave Jones Thanks will use single felt. Will be fitting slates not tiles. Will speak to roofer about lead soakers.

Just done a quick Google search for "JA SOLAR 370W ALL BLACK". They are all around £150inc VAT and I don't think it's trade price (even though website has word "trade" in it), that's 1600 markup. What a rip-off.

Thanks. I think I read that too somewhere. I think I'm ignoring it considering we rarely get high temps, also they'll be outside and higher up.

Thank you all. It's good to know that in-roof system does work. Mine is a new build so in-roof will look good. Will speak to roofer to see if double felt can be added for piece of mind. Payback more than 15 years - don't think I will wait that long. I was more thinking around 8 years for the payback. If 5-6 grand for 4kW system - Sounds like I should be able to get around 8kW for 12 grand? @DougMLancs One of the company's said that they charge £250 per panel (+ the cost of accessories to go with the 4 panels)so let's say £11,000. If I can get the price dropped to under £12k. I think I may be OK with that? I don't understand "a gen 2 3.6kW Givenergy hybrid inverter and a 9.5kW battery" whether it's better or similar to what I've been quoted so I've not considered it in £12k. Probably, try my haggling skills with the company (the walk away technique usually works). Probably, the rep will do the classic, give his manager a call. Thanks

Hi So finally (it's taken over a year to get to this stage) we've started to install roof trusses on our self build detached house. I have received three quotes for solar panels all around £13k, two quotes are in-roof installation and one company quoted top-of-roof installation. The company that quoted top-of-roof installation insisted that in-roof panels would make the roof leak and I should not go with in-roof installation. Whereas the in-roof company said we have to put a good quality breathable membrane, probably double the membrane, so there's no chance of leak. Has anyone had in-roof installation? What are you're thoughts on in-roof installation? Any recommendations or suggestions on in-roof instillation are highly appreciated. The installation will be done in two phases. Phase one, solar panel installation and then on a later date connection to the power grid and house electrics. The following is one of the quotes (in-roof), total cost £12,900. Does this seem like a reasonable quote (based in Leeds)? Currently, the roof trusses are being fitted and the scaffolding will be provided. Quote: 1 SUPPLY OF PHOTOVOLTAIC SYSTEM (5.92 kWp) £10,530, which includes: 16 JA SOLAR 370W ALL BLACK 2 FOX ESS FOX 2.6KWH BATTERY 1 FOX ESS FOX 5KW 1 EMLITE GENERATION METER 1 CLENERGY RAILING INSTALLATION OF PHOTOVOLTAIC SYSTEM £1,500 SURVEY £220 MISC ELECTRICAL ITEMS £300 REGISTRATION AND CERTIFICATION 150 ADMINISTRATION £200 Sub Total: 2,370 Thanks

Thanks @nodand @Roundtuit

Thanks @Temp I thought the ceiling clips are placed as you place the blocks. Four ceiling clips per square meter. However, my builder hasn't done that. He says that they have to be placed after all the blocks are placed, from underneath. Do you recall whether you placed the ceiling clips after all the blocks (entire floor) were placed, from underneath? thanks

Thanks. I will look into MF framing. We already have some clips, attached, provided by beam and block company. But I'm not sure if they're the best option.

Thanks nod. The only concern about plaster afterwards is that it filing on the screed floor and setting on the screed.

Hi We are building a new house with block and beam floors We are going with water underfloor heating with liquid screed on top on both ground and first floor. Do we plaster the ceilings/walls first and then under floor heating and liquid screed? Thanks

Hii We just layed beam and block first floor. Just wondering what would be best method to hang the plasterboards to the ceiling? We do have ceiling clips to screw wood to and then to screw plasterboard to the wood. However, the ceiling clips seem flimsy. Is there an alternative method to hang the plasterboards to the ceiling? Thanks

Thanks nod. I did approach Protek but their quote was way too high for me, close to 2k, mainly because of rebuild cover. I tried to enter lower rebuild cost but their online quote system prompted to enter minium ~£1200 per square meter and it won't allow me to proceed. Is there a downside to getting a business insurance that covers public liability, as a builder, sole trader?

Hi All I'm project managing a new/self build. I don't need an insurance to cover building works. I only need a site insurance to cover public liability. Does public liability cover sub-contractors who may not have their own insurance? If no, then I need an insurance that covers them too. Can someone please recommend an insurance company that would meet these needs? Protek don't provide site insurance without building works. I got an online quote from Simply Business as a builder but that is a business cover. The insurance includes public and employer liability. However, I'm not registered as a sole trader. I'm an employee myself. So I'm not sure if this would work for me. Any suggestions/comments. Thanks iMCaan

Thank you all That clears that up. No mortar below DPM on the end of BB. @Simplysimon sorry, I'm not a builder (or a DIYer) so I may wording may have caused the confusion. There's a void below BB Thank you again

Hi I know from the Beam and Block plans that DPM needs to be placed under the concrete beams on the ground floor. From YouTube videos I thought DPM is placed on a 10mm mortar bed. However, a subcontractor has suggested you don't have to put 10mm mortar bed under DPM. Is this true? What which be better, with or without the 10mm bed? Thanks