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Hi We had 50mm liquid screed poured a couple of weeks ago. We now need to build metal frame stud walls to make bathrooms. What would be the best option to attach the metal frame to the screed? Option 1: Adhesive - What would be the best adhesive to stick metal frame to the screeded floor? Option 2: Lay concrete common brick 65mm (without Frog) onto the screed and then screw in the metal frame to the concrete common brick. Thanks

Hi We will have two manifolds on the GF. Does each manifold need a separate flow and return from/to the boiler? Two flow and two return pipes from/to boiler? Or would it be just one flow and one return with a T near the manifolds? Thanks

Thanks

Thanks @nod Is that 3mil before or after skimming? Thanks

Hi all, We have a 120mm (tape measured) stud partition (70mm MF with timber inside, 2x11mm OSB sheets, 2x12.5 plasterboards = 117mm). Not sure what I should allow for skimming, probably 6mm (3mm either side). Can someone please tell me what depth of door frame I need to order? Thank you

Thanks

I've managed to read through the guidance. I agree EPC is not required for a self-build. I can provide the evidence to prove the house is a self-build (paragraph 5.14): • proof of property ownership (eg a copy of title deeds, contract of sale) • documents confirming you received a self-build VAT exemption, self-build loan or mortgage • an invoice for substantial structural materials or labour (eg foundations or timber frame, smaller works such as re-wiring or kitchen-fitting will not be sufficient) • self-build insurance • copies of bank statements • trader and builders’ invoices or contracts. Property owner So let's see what MCS BUS approved installers quote. Thank you.

This is a self-build house. The attached garage, which is slightly set back, looks like an extension thanks to the planning officer.

What's strange is that my stone built 6 bed house is definitely isn't "keeping with the surrounding area" (affordable 2/3 bed brick houses). My 6 bed house is too dominate, which was main objection, even with the attached garage slightly set back.

LOL extension is already built. The planning officer objected saying the house is too dominant for the street and attached garage has to be set back slightly to appear like an extension (yep that's what he said).

Thank you all. As always a lot more information than I was expecting. Thank you. None of the above. It was just me asking to see how long I had to wait before I can get the EPC for BUS. However, I may not need the EPC as JohnMo states above post. Thanks @JohnMo I will check this out.

Hi An MCS accredited engineer has confirmed that my self-build house is eligible for BUS grant subject to EPC on completion of the build. At what stage of the build is a house considered completely built? Is it when kitchen and toiler are fitted? If so, then I'll be waiting 'till late summer with my current build progress to get the EPC and BUS grant for ASHP. Do I wait that long or do I just fit a boiler? The house is currently water tight, roof and windows are all in. No internal work has yet started. It could be late summer when I move in. Thanks

I want to achieve a minimal hanging ceiling void (none if possible between concrete beam and plasterboard). I'm considering MF but I'm still confused how metal framing is fitted to a block and beam ceiling. The MF ends are screwed to the wall but how is the middle supported? Is it screwed to the beam or some type of clips are used? Please can someone share some product images. Does anyone have any picts of MF on block and beam ceiling that they can share? Thank you

I've not heard of that before. It's probably because of gas extractor fans or air vents not working efficiently. I've had another quote from a gas engineer: Labour only £3.4k (gas boiler + cylinder + 3 radiators + pipes + fittings)

Thank you

GrantUK Supply only ASHP + cylinder + fittings = £8k (not sure about the installation cost) Local Company Supply and install gas boiler + cylinder + 3 radiators + pipes + fittings = £10k Gas Safe Engineer Labour only £4k (gas boiler + cylinder + 3 radiators + pipes + fittings) My estimated cost of equipment £4k (gas boiler £1.5k, unvented cylinder 1.5k, other fittings £1k) I think, it's between GrantUK and local Gas Safe Engineer depending on ASHP installation cost. I have directly approached a GrantUK installer for a quote including installation. Will see what they quote in particular for the installation.

Thank you. My builder also went through the foundation block with lintel over the top. The MDPE is in void under beam and block floor and was covered with concrete/sand mixture. I can't remember what if any ducting he used. I suppose it's still acceptable even though it should had taken the MDPE to the utility room (right hand side of the attached photo) as per architect plans. The reason we're re-locating the MDPE is that it's short, it doesn't reach the footpath. Furthermore, Yorkshire Water want MDPE about 5 meters further away near the gas and electricity trench (see attached photo). I'm not sure that now it's practical to put a 110mm drainage pipe with lintel on top through the foundation blocks. I was hoping for an insulated hockey stick, like that used for electricity cable (attached photo) as probably the best option.

Hi We have an open trench for gas and electricity, which we also be using for mains water supply MDPE. The trench is well below 750mm finished ground level and beam and block floor. To get the MDPE inside, would it be better to drill through the cavity wall into the void below the block and beam floor or above the floor? What type of insulated ducting do I need to use and with what bend to get the MDPE inside into the garage? Thanks

Thanks @Canski and @LnP Only if I knew about moling companies before it may had saved me a bit of money. Yorkshire Water want the blue mains water pipe on the other side of the garage, about 5 meters away from where it is located now. This would mean it can be placed in the same trench (still open) as gas and electricity. Furthermore, the gas engineer suggested this from day one. He said it'll be better for the water stopcock to be next to the unvented cylinder in the garage then under the sink in the kitchen. Looking at the architect's drawings with a bit more experience now, the builder has placed the water mains pipe in a wrong place. The builder run the mains water pipe from the front garden through the foundation to the kitchen at the back. However, on the drawings the stop tap is in the utility room, adjoining kitchen and behind the garage. Furthermore, the mains water pipe is not long enough to reach the footpath. [trying to keep calm]

I had something similar planned. I wanted Northern Gas Network to dig the trench and leave it open for electricity. However, NGN cancelled their visit because two scaffolding poles crossed the trench path and their were some concrete blocks close by. The rescheduled appointment was after Norther Power. All this meant, I had to pay the builder to dig the trench for electricity cable. It was left open for gas so that they could do their work. NGN subcontractor did minimal fill. They said I would still had to do a lot of fill anyway as part of the driveway. I contacted Octopus for the meters but they said it'll take several weeks for engineer to come out install the meters. Will go with Scottish Power who said it'll be 2 to 4 weeks.

I'll speak to him

Both refer to the current application as well as to previous applications. No-one else is affected. My house is the last connection to the sewer. It ends there. It was in general terms as to who would be responsible. I think there was a man-hole on my site for the sewer. I've noticed one in my neighbour's garden so the other would likely be in council property. Time to contact YW, architect and the builder.

Yes, I did see the work. If I remember correctly as it was two years ago, it was a clay about 100mm radius orange pipe. He capped it off close to the neighbour's boundary wall. I remember him saying that he will connect a new pipe once the shell is up. I don't think I'm being misled. I hired him because he does a lot of groundworks for council and schools.

Hi We have a existing combined sewer in our back garden that runs down through our neighbours' back garden to council owned property and then to the public road. My builder re-routed it in our garden to avoid the foundations (back wall). It's not yet connected to the house. Was the builder right to re-route it without consulting Yorkshire Water? We submitted a few planning applications and Yorkshire Water commented on two of them: 1) A public sewer crosses the site in the area of the proposed building. The sewerage undertaker (Yorkshire Water) must therefore be consulted for any layout constraints and for a view on the impact of the development on the public sewerage system (Attached sewer map is for information purposes only). 2) no observation comments are required from Yorkshire Water. There is a minor S24 foul/combined sewer recorded crossing the site. In this instance, YW would look for this to be controlled under Requirement part H4 of Building Regulations 2010 Who's responsibility is it to maintain the sewer in our garden, me or Yorkshire Water? Who's responsible for clearing the sewer blockage in my neighbour's garden, me, neighbour or Yorkshire Water? My neighbour is unaware of the sewer through his garden. He said he's sewer goes from the front garden straight to main sewer in road. Thanks

Yorkshire Water informs me that the water supply for the demolished houses would had be disconnected from the main pipes on the other side of the road. it seems like I don't have much of a choice but to pay out the 5k. One of the sub-contractors (can't remember whether he was for electricity or gas) told me there are 5 companies involved, security fence, digging on public highway, making the connection, putting flags down on public highway, and trenching on private property.