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Qualified architect designed it. According to the builder., his drawings/design was 100% better than the previous architect's drawings. Not had a good experience with the self build from the start. (luckily I didn't go with a turnkey builder, who stayed quite for 2 months and came back to me and reduced the price by £130K, yep £130,000. Initially was recommended by a stone quarry. He built many houses. I asked a few owners and they said they would recommend him and were happy with his work).

Going through the photos, I see that insulation up to first floor did get taped up but not after. (This damage was caused by some teenagers)

Thanks. It's an option. I'll give that a serious thought.

Not sure what I can say other than to put up a brave face, again Thanks, will add insulated plasterboard to the internal walls. Not sure I can add more insulation to the ground floor. To FFL is 100mm insulation, 50mm liquid screed and 10/15mm tiles. Extra insulation between trusses shouldn't be a problem.

I don't know much details about the the other build. Just shows how inexperienced I am. If I had even a little bit of advice about putting in more thicker insulation in cavity I would have. I remember asking the builder about putting in 75mm insulation in cavity wall but he said it's usually 50mm and you need 50mm void for air circulation. Therefore, I went with 50mm Kingspan. The SAP is 52 pages of calculations and numbers, too much jargon. I don't think I'll understand any. I don't think I can do much about the cavity wall insulation now. Perhaps I can use insulated plasterboard? On the ground floor, we planned 100mm insulation with UFH. I have read people putting in 200mm insulation but I can't do that due to FFL. First floor to have 25mm insulation with UFH. In regards to roof/attic room insulation, I have planned 200mm insulation between joists, 100mm and 50mm between trusses and then plasterboard.

This is normal up in West Yorkshire. I am aware of another new build 2022 completion, also used 50mm insulation in cavity walls. 100mm block, 50mm insulation, 50mm void and 100mm stone. Thanks joth, aren't you using a hot water cylinder? I thought the ASHP will come on to heat the hot water cylinder when it falls below set temp.? I need to read up on ASHP.

What do you mean by "no room can "call for heat" on its own"? If there are two rooms and each room is a zone, then both rooms/zones can call hot water/heat as and when needed to maintain the different temperature set for each room?

You wall construction looks like 300mm, that's going to cost you in expensive insulation and labour time to correctly (they wont)detail it. Have you already got building regs ? Yes, 300mm cavity wall. 50mm Kingspan insulation in cavity wall. Also, 50mm insulation in internal cavity wall adjoining garage, which builder said I don't need but I still went ahead with it. Building control officer is happy with everything so far.

Drawings attached. The roofer has started slating the roof today. He reckons it'll take him 3/4 weeks.

The thickness of first floor structure, plasterboard, blocks, 25mm insulation, 50mm screed and floor covering (tiles likely). A lot of people here are suggesting no UFH on first floor and no zoning to save cost. I will take this on board and discuss this with my other half. Inexperience. We wanted to build the house quickly and install UFH on the first floor. Nobody, from architect to the builder, advised us against B&B on first floor. So much for the quick build, almost 2 years from starting site clearing to just starting roofing. The architect took a few years to design the house and still messed up the levels then eventually decided to go with another architect. The rise of material prices over the past couple of years and scaffolding (has been up for over a year now) cost has eaten a large chunk of my budget. Not had the best of experience with anybody yet. The best advice/help I've had is from buildhub community. Thank you Buildhub community.

Thank you all. I think it's better to put ASHP on future list along side solar panels. Thanks

Thank you all. Need to rethink the upstair UFH. How do I calculate/get the heat loss calculation? Thanks

Hi Re-considering ASHP for a self build house including UFH on two floors. How much would it cost to install a ASHP (5 residents, 3 wet rooms and UFH)? Thanks

I've not had the best of any trade so far inc architects, could say I'm a victim of cowboys. Architect(s) designed it (long story, many years long) but I've not had much input. Probably, people took advantage of my naivety/inexperience. We had the SAP calculations report done. I'm looking for a most efficient build but within a tight budget as the build is over a year overdue, which has eaten up a lot of my budget I did initially consider ASHP and solar panels but can't now with the limited budget What is the widest pipe spacing that can be used?

Thank you for the comments/suggestions. There's no ASHP. We'll be using a boiler and a hot water cylinder. The GF and FF are beam and block so heat rising from downstairs to FF will be blocked or kept to minimal by B&B. A bit naive/inexperience to got with B&B FF but it's fitted now. I just feel that if I don't use zoning there we'll be unnecessary heating empty rooms when kids are out. I suppose the heating in bedrooms can be turned off/down during when not required?

Hi I'm looking for some advice regarding UFH design and zoning on both GF and FF. I have received the attached pipe layout plans for GF and FF from Wunda. I know a lot of people here don't prefer zoning but I think zoning will work for me. On the GF, we have an L shape open plan room and I have split that into three zones. The utility room is a secondary kitchen (demanded by my other half). Should it be zoned? In regards to FF, I think I've definitely over done the zoning. I prefer each bedroom to be zoned. Should the the hallways and bathrooms be zoned. How can this initial UFH design be improved? Any suggestions/comments are highly appreciated. Thanks

Thank you

Hi Thanks @Redoctober for sharing the photos back in 2019. I hope you don't mind me using your UFH photos posted elsewhere on buildhub. We will be laying liquid screed first and then plastering as suggested by many and as shown in the photos by @Redoctober. We will too be screwing the manifold to MDF board and then screwing MDF board to concrete block wall. All good so far. However, I'm unsure about how the plastering (dot and dab and skimming on a concrete block wall) will be done behind the manifold MDF board? If it's just as simple as tilting the MDF board forward then will that damage the screed or pipes/connectors? Thanks

Thank you @Bonner @Carrerahill I think temporary staircase will work perfectly as we already have the appropriate timber onsite. Also, it doesn't look too difficult to make. Thank you.

Hi Self build: detached house I have a small dilemma in installing UFH, staircase and windows and would appreciate any suggestions. I have been told that the staircase would need to be fitted before windows so that window fitters can easily carry the heavy glass upstairs. However, before fitting the staircase we need to install the UFH (insulation and liquid screed) to finish floor level. For UFH we need the house to be water tight (windows and doors fitted). What would be the best way to approach this? Thanks

Apologies for late reply (again). Thanks JohnMo. I will check that out.

It appears Wunda has miscalculated 21.56kW. Robbens Systems have stated GF Total heat load 5.01 kW FF Total heat load 6.51 kW Another company as stated Total Heat Load 17412 W It still appears a lot more load than your house.

Thanks @JohnMo Pipe centres: 150mm Estimated UFH project loading in KW : 21.56kW Where will the one thermostat be placed, near the staircase? Thanks

Thanks but I'm not sure I completely understand when you say keep it simple. Do you mean there are fewer thermostats (e.g. one thermostat per room?)? And that the wiring centre is wired such that it controls all pipe loops in a room at once? In some rooms, there are more than one pipe loop. Does it mean that I need to put one single pipe loop per room? How would you simplify the attached design, in particular the open plan L shaped room? Should it have one or 3 thermostats and how many pipe loops? Wunda have suggested two manifolds per floor (GF 7 & 10, FF 5 and 10). Does simplifying mean we can have fewer port manifolds? As part of simplifying are self regulating actuator valves required? I have already asked them not to include smart hub & boiler switchs, mart connection box and wundaSmart square thermostat with probe. We will have a gas boiler and water cylinder to feed the UFH. Thanks

@MMcGill Thanks for creating this post and others for sharing your comments/suggestions. I too have the same issue. What thickness should the insulation be on the beam and block first floor? After reading the comments in the post, I'm now considering 25mm thick PIR insulation board instead of 50mm with liquid screed. @MMcGill Did you go with UFH on the first floor? What thickness insulation did use? Was it above the beam blocks or in the voids below? Would love to hear about your UFH setup on the first floor? Much appreciated. Thanks