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Yes, I still do. I'm testing to figure out what is triggering the high temperature. Why it went as high as 23 degrees.

Thanks all @JohnMo I have no idea how to setup self learning stopping starting or how to enable it. The thermostat model is SQ610 and the wiring centre is CB500 and auto balancing actuators are THB23031. We've not yet moved in. Since there's no broadband yet, I've not installed the Salus gateway therefore I'm not using the mobile app or have anything programmed. The scheduled timer on the thermostat is not set. I've not played with any other settings on any thermostat. Last night, I did some basic testing. Raised the temperature of every thermostat on the ground floor except for the affected room. All actuators came on except the three actuators for the room affected. The 3 flow pipes for the affected room were colder than the other room pipes to touch. After about an hour later I lowered the temperature on all thermostats to turn off the actuators. This morning, the room affected temperature was 11.5 degrees. I raised the temperature to 13 degrees and the three actuators for the room came on. Will check tonight what the room temperature is. Thanks

It's Salus Quantum 230v Programmable Thermostat and Salus CB500 5 Zone wiring centre. @JohnMo I need to think about this. How it works?

We have water UFH on ground and first floor and both floors are screeded. In one of the ground floor rooms, the temperature rises to as high as 23 degrees with Salus thermostat set at 8 degrees (same as the other rooms) that's a huge 15 degree difference. In the other rooms the temperature is mostly around 10 degrees. I've taken the room temperature manually and it matches the temperature displayed on the Salus thermostat so it doesn't appear that thermostat is not faulty nor is the Salus auto actuator, which comes on and goes off. So what could be the reason? Why would there be such a high difference between the set temperature and the actual room temperature? Thanks

Happy new year. Update. They have swapped the return and flow pipes and now UFH on both floors is heating up as it should. Thanks to all

I turned off the ufh and let the flow and return pipes to cool down. Then I turned the heating on in one of the rooms. The boiler kicked in. The return pipe became hot first. Did this three times and on all three occasions the return pipe became hot before the flow pipe. When I left it on for a while, the return pipe appeared hotter than the flow pipe. The thermal camera was not useful so used tmy hands to feel the heat in the pipes. So it's clear the return and flow need swapping. Will see what the heating company says next week.

Here is the clearer photo of the ground floor manifold

If I turn off the UFH on both floors until the pipes are cool. Then turn the ground floor UFH on. Aim a thermal camera at the flow and return pipes (just has they come out of the concrete floor to the manifold). The pipe that heats up is the flow (hot) pipe. Does this make sense? Will it work?

Have loads of old installation photos but not of the finished installation. Will share the photo later.

Yes. They are coming out to take a look next week. I will ask them to fix it as they laid the flow and return pipe and connected it to the pump. The flow and return should be connected to the correct pump connection, if incorrectly connected. The heating request does work as it starts the boiler. Three companies setup the ufh system, ufh company laid out the plastic pipe and installed the manifold, electrician installed the thermostats and wired it all up to manifold, and the heating company fitted the boiler/cylinder.

It's a new UFH system. I would say it has never worked properly. Nothing has changed since it was commissioned. It has heated the rooms before but we never had it on continuously as we haven't moved in yet. The photo was taken a few months back but nothing has changed in this system.

It's a Danfoss motorised valve with a manual and auto setting. It's set on auto. Yes, there's a drain valve. Orange - Flow pipe from boiler Yellow Radiators - branch 1 Green Groundfloor UFH - branch 2 Blue 1st floor UFH - branch 3 Light Blue hot Water

I had an electrician, who wired the ufh, to come out to investigate. He concluded that the flow and return pipes are wrongly connected. The flow pipe is connected to the return connection on the pump and the return pipe is connected to the flow connection. Therefore, the pump is circulating the cold water in the ufh pipe loop. On return, the pump (manifold side) is pushing the return (cooler) water back to to boiler to heat up and at the same time the boiler is pushing hot water on this same (flow) pipe towards the manifold. (hope this makes sense). This creates a conflict, which is why the heating is not working. He says the flow and return pipes need swapping on the pump. He said to contact the heating company to confirm that flow pipe and return pipes are correct. I contacted the heating company and they said that's rubbish (as in they don't make a mistake - probably typical response when one company says it's another company's fault) but they will come out next week to take a look. Yesterday, I did notice that the return pipe was more hotter than the flow pipe. This was when only when only one thermostat was requesting heating. If other thermostats kicked in the flow/return pipes got cooler, near the manifold and near the boiler.

Thanks, motorised valve is in auto position and lever can be manually moved to auto or manual position. I'm not sure how to test it at what state the valve is (open or closed). Surely, the water pipe on right towards the boiler should be hot just like the rest of flow pipe. The UFH pump is all lit up and goes off when there's no heating request. The flow pipe near UFH mixing valve is cold. It seems the hot water is not reaching to the mixing valve. When you say "manual valve", is that motorised valve in manual position you are referring to?

Hi We have three heating zones of which groundfloor ufh is not heating up. All ufh components appear to be working fine. The boiler is working, it's heating up the water. The manifold side also appears to be working. However, the flow pipe to manifold/pump is always cold when the boiler has kicked in. So it appears the hot water is not reaching the manifold pump. The flow pipe from the boiler has 3 branches (one for each heating zones that are controlled by Danfoss motorised valves), attic (radiators), 1st floor ufh and groundfloor ufh. The motorised valves are close to the boiler. The attic and 1st floor zones work as they should. When they request the boiler comes on, the motorised valves open and the hot water starts flowing to those zones and the rooms warm up. The water is hot either side of those motorsied valves as it should be. Now the mind boggling bit. Whether the groundfloor heating zone (motorised valve) is open or closed, the flow pipe on both sides of the motorised valve are COLD but ONLY the branch part of the flow pipe, which is about a foot long. Nothing else is between motorised valve and the boiler just like other branches. The rest of the flow pipe from the boiler to the other motorised valves are hot (untouchable). The groundfloor ufh branch is the middle branch. How could it be that only the branch is cold but the rest of the flow pipe is hot? Thanks

Thank you

Hi My local garage door company has quoted me the same price £1800 whether I go with a roller shutter or a sectional (on promotion) garage door for our integral garage. The sectional door has better insulation. The downside of sectional door is it's frame covers half of the garage ceiling when the section door is open so can't utilise the ceiling space. Is sectional garage door better than roller shutter doors? Thanks

Thanks @JohnMo Yes, would be spreading top soil on top of the subsoil. Looking at the garden, the only option would be to either to remove the top layer now (and then apply weed killer in spring) or in spring.

We're considering installing fencing next month and since the digger will be on site we thought about removing the overgrown topsoil and levelling the garden. Is November a good time to remove the top layer and leaving the subsoil exposed until Feb/Mar for sawing lawn and planting?

Thanks @Oz07 I contacted the building control officer and he said exactly that (not the bit about adding pair maker later).

Thanks @Temp I contacted them and they said it's not fire rated so building control won't approve it.

Thanks @Temp I sent them a message yesterday to clarify whether it can be used on a 44mm thick fire doors. I don't think with a depth of 45mm it's the correct size to fit 44mm thick doors. I think the depth 45mm is from top to bottom so I'm thinking the top T header section is 12mm, which leaves the depth of 33mm. Therefore, it'll be for standard doors.

Hi. I've been searching for a pair maker/t-lipping for an internal oak fire door 44mm thick. I've done googling and visited many online door merchants but I've not found a 44mm pair maker / t lipping. They all to sell 35mm pair makers. Does anyone know where to buy an oak 44mm pair makers from? Thanks

Shocking, my prices were taken from Mone Bros website. That's a huge difference. I was hesitant at first to ask about the pricing. Good thing I did. Thanks @Thorfun and Buildhub community.

Thank you all. Robot lawn mover it is (when I get there). Just been looking at the cost of loose topsoil £45 per tonne, over £3k in total for 400m2x100mm=72.00 tonnes. Does this seem correct? Thanks