Susie

I taped mine up the walls and the studs. two layers of insulation with staggered overlaps then a thin slip sheet before the UFH. the slip sheet is also taped up the walls my dpm is taped up more so the slip sheet is also taped to this. can you get any insulation in the studs below screed level? Easier to put in first and gives something to tape onto. Then maybe some noggins for the plasterboard later. I presume you’re having UFH, all the layers you tape up the walls and studs should be neat and tight. This gives something for the expansion foam something to stick to in the studs where there would otherwise be nothing.

Still ongoing. Hope to put my last insulation order in soon. The points you get can be used across all the group sites but I haven’t purchased much more on the other sites.

I have been buying my insulation from https://www.insulationsuperstore.co.uk/ I have had multiple deliveries from them, at least 10. I have purchased rock wool and PIR only once did the delivery come on a huge truck most came on a small van and the drivers were very friendly, delivered from SIG or Markovich, with good delivery communication. The Rockwool I purchased by the pallet, the PIR by the sheet mixing my order 80mm and 100mm and spending the minimum for free delivery which meant I was not stacking rooms full and risking damaging corners. I was often getting discount codes or used my account points to get money off never paid the full price.

Things are all progressing well. You will be living in a nice warm house with a good shower well before me.

Glad you got it sorted @SelfBuildSmurf . I have the build hub UFH stapler ready to pass on to who needs it.

I have recently used both types of expansion foam with and without the skirt. I found the skirt, often yellow foam, only had one small strip of adhesive on it to stick to the walls and wasn’t a snug fit. I also had one without the skirt, blue, which had a full depth of adhesive on the rear that stuck really well to the walls and studs.

Welcome to the forum. There are quite a few of us building our home for later years. you sound like you have a lot of building experience to pass on.

Norrsken measured my openings and we discussed our XPS ICF and it’s load bearing. The ICF company were happy with its capabilities but it was Norrsken who were more concerned about the installation whilst in progress. I’m not sure of the compressive strength of your ICF but it was where the packers go and point load whilst in the installation process. It is possible to push your thumb in our ICF and make a small indentation and as it’s not memory foam that small indent will stay there under the frame. Similarly the packers could push down in to ICF. Norrsken provided stokbord to sit the frames on. I EPDM before the stokbord and then taped the windows after. Were fairly coastal with high wind and rain and open to the countryside with no buildings buffering us. Windows have now been in a year I think and we’re not plastered so can still see the Icf and no water leaking in around windows.

I have not used that one. The ones made up of two strips are good. By the time you have filled and sanded three times it will be solid. The paper actually ’soaks’ up the fill and that’s part of its bond and strength the metal strips take the knocks more but might have less bond as they can’t soak the fill the same. Looks like it has little perforations which is good. I know some prefer the paper tapes without the metal because the perforations allow good contact with the fill. If you are doing the filling yourself can you have a go with a sample piece and see which you like the best. It’s also handy to know where you can buy from when you run out, as you say online can be quick as can Wickes who sell Knauf and SF and TS. PM me if you want a small section of the paper tape with the two metal strips.

Are you concerned about leaves? I’ve used something like this. FLOPLAST PUSH-FIT DEBRIS GULLY 110MM (25121) My rainwater also goes to a soak away that has a bottle trap/bucket before it as well. I can’t say how good it all works as not been up long enough yet.

Used these on my plant room, and happy with them to use again, would also consider using them for a vaulted ceiling to wall internal corner on my next room. It’s also dependent on the fill you do, how many fills and how many sands.

Sounds like it’s Utility company now so that’s good. Could be something in the deeds of neighbours but doesn’t sound like it matters any way. good luck on SUDs. You will probably have to dig a pit and prove you don’t drain away enough but your local BC may advise what others are doing locally.

Do you know how old the pipe is that runs through your garden? ’In England and Wales, private sewers and lateral drains became public on October 1, 2011. This legal change, enacted by the Water Industry (Schemes for Adoption of Private Sewers) Regulations 2011, automatically transferred the ownership of these privately-owned pipes to water and sewerage companies.’ if they are older than 2011 they are now considered to be public but the water board just don’t know they exist or the route they follow. Importantly if older than 2011 and they get a blockage then the water board unblock them as they are no longer private. if newer than 2011 they are private but will join the public sewers some where so you would need permission from the private owner most likely who ever is furthest up stream to join their sewer but also will possibly still need to notify water board as you are adding to the volume of water in their pipe unless it all goes to a private ditch or pond.

You definitely should have received a certificate if you still have some of the details of who did the installation you can look them up on NICEIC if registered with them or other part P registration schemes eg ECA and if you find who they are registered with then you can contact the registration scheme who will organise it to be checked. All the registration schemes guarantee the work of the members that’s why the annual checking of the members is done. As Nod said when the annual checks are done it is often at least a full day of inspecting previous jobs and checking paperwork and insurance is in place. Being a qualified electrician getting the certifications from college etc is not the same as being registered with a part P scheme provider as your work or company work is continually checked.

https://simplybamboo.co.uk https://www.bambooflooringcompany.com these are the big 2 companies, other flooring companies might have one or 2 bamboo plank options, eg Wickes has at least one double up on the free samples by getting delivered to multiple homes if necessary. They don’t hassle you afterwards. They also do skirting to match and door thresholds etc