SteamyTea

Not read, in detail, all the above. There is nothing to stop you designing a forced air heating and cooling system, and then adding heat recovery to it. It is done already, but it is expensive. But why do you need active cooling, you can design temperature extremes out at the beginning. It will mainly mean you will not have huge windows, but will probably make the design cheaper to build. I am about as far south as one can get in the UK (not quite the Lizard Peninsula, but close). Only only in 20 years have I had to temporarily mitigate high OAT. If it really does get too hot to sleep upstairs, sleep downstairs for a few nights. It is a lot cheaper. Slightly more expensive option is to book into a Travelodge, but check they have Aircon.

But greatly reduced output during the summer, if you want to use them for cooling. This is the project for a 1kWp system, South facing, by the sea in Penzance. First screenshot is vertical, second is horizontal.

Best to fit condensation drains of you can, it gives you the option to run them at a much lower temperature if you want to, though you have to be careful if running UFH(UFC really) at the same temperature, but if you have a reasonably sized concrete slab, it may take a few hours to drop the floor temperature to the dew point.

I can see two problems. Energy loss Condensation risk Energy loss could be counteracted by improving another element i.e. improve the window. Condensation risk is a lot harder and would need some more information. What is the wall NSEW orientation. South facing would probably not be an issue, North almost certainly is. You only need a relatively small amount of insulation, maybe 50mm, to stop the wall from dropping below the dewpoint temperature. You should be able to model that section fairly easily in 1 dimension to get an idea of the scale of the problem. Failing that, just fully fill the cavity with insulation, but be wary of any existing cavity ventilation already there n place, even if it is already obscured.

I suspect that the compressors of most fridges/freezers are made by the same, small, group of companies. Unusually get about 10 years of use out of the cheapest fridges, but at work, the expensive ones don't last any longer. As the weather is getting 'fresher' (as they say on the weather forecast), you may find that the problem goes away, if not, consider buying a new one. Also worth reminding that the sunk energy/cost of running a fridge is in cooling the stuff in it, not the air in it. So avoid putting in things like room temperature liquids if you can.

Can you get a fan to blow the room air across the rear. Fridges usually have a temperature range that they can be operated in, but it is rare in the UK to hit the minimum and maximum temperatures. How old is the unit? It may just be failing, you can usually tell as the internal temperature starts to swing wildly between warm and frozen (in the fridge part) and you can hear the unit pumping. It also pushes your electricity bill up a lot.

I had a condensing washer dryer, can't remember if it was a Hotpoint or a Candy, but I seem to remember that it used the cold water feed to condense the moist air.

In 15 years time you get a cheque for 30 quid. Not going to happen. How the mighty fall from grace.

How long did she sit on it before she got hot, sweaty and cross eyed. Leave it plugged in and you can play with your new stereo.

The physics of cement cohesion All answers are above. Good luck, it is a technical read.

Well yours is a lot better logged than EDF manages. I think there is already 7 days missing and not at the end of the month yet.

Isn’t that what this means As the difference is a pressure i.e. Pa = kg⋅m−1⋅s−2 Then a relatively small difference can, over time, have a large affect.

Really just got to replace the air, for drier air, at the boundary layer.

This one has a wipe clean laminated finish.