SteamyTea

Are the nails there for a reason i.e. holding the timber in place. Used in proper engineering all the time. Cost a bit more but are good.

The useful efficiency will be pretty poor initially as little condensing may be happening. The 12.5 kW you have limited to may only be a rough setting and is the thermal output. The efficiency may be down to 65% at start up, which is getting close to 20 kW. Or Was it heating water then?

Where else does one vent off.

Do they mean Building Regulation limits, which are pretty poor.

Spent some time there.

Welcome. Used to live up your way. Do they have a traffic warden again in St. A now? You will find that the term Eco is rather dismissed on here. Low and extremely low energy is the preferred term.

@Pocster is my dealer.

True, and itching as well.

Definitely, you don't want a live conductor, AC or DC, what you cannot isolate at the source end. Make sure that isolator can handle the DC current. Yes. I am not sure if there should be one before it. Probably does need something to safely isolate it, but the MCB/RCD/RCBO may well do that. What do the regulations say?

Thanks, shall do a bit more digging. Seems it is not a benign mixture when in the atmosphere.

PV modules (the individual cells) are fixed voltage devices, basically diodes), as @JohnMo mentioned earlier, it is the current that varies with light intensity. Modules are tested to a standard format, "The reference condition called standard test conditions (STC) is commonly used and assumes 1000 W/m2 solar irradiance, AM1.5 spectrum, and a cell temperature of 77°F(25°C)" (more here), it is not difficult to exceed those conditions (even in the UK), so a lot easier to put in a safety factor. Putting cables into conduit can affect the amount of current they can carry (similar to passing cables though insulation). There are standards for this as well. DC cables also carry, for a given size, a different amount to AC cables (usually more but not much in this situation, more at higher voltages). On this site, there is no price difference between them.

Yes, do the long runs on the DC side. Ideally you want DC isolators at the panel end, and then depending on inverter, maybe on nearer for convenience. A lot of new inverters have DC isolators built in. An inverter can generate a lot of hot air when running at 100% plus, so if indoors, make sure there is adequate ventilation. AC isolator is usually near the inverter and are nearly always used to isolate before the DC (takes the load of the inverter. As for cabling size, go for minimum of 6mm (even if the panels have 4mm tails). The DC losses (below 2% ideally) will only be a problem when you are generating close to maximum, most of the time you will only be at a small fraction of peak amps. Does depend how long the run is though.

See if you can get the chemical data sheet for the gunk. I fancy a retirement job and setting a machine up and running it for a few hours seems ideal.

Back in the 1980s we used to play a game called 'Plausible Answers'. Should have copyrighted the format. 'the Caspian Sea is 2 foot deep at its widest point' is still my favourite. It is worth asking AI what the rules of 'Mornington Cresent' are, and specially as the rule book was withdrawn in the early 1970s. That was a traumatic day, front page news for 15 minutes.

I trust it as much as Wikipedia, it is OK if you know the answer, but just need a reminder.