Druim nan Darach

Looking fantastic ! Clean sharp detailing. The rough casting looks really well done. Nice work all round. 

10 minutes ago, Cpd said:

Looking fantastic ! Clean sharp detailing. The rough casting looks really well done. Nice work all round. 

 

Thanks @Cpd it going to be painted white like most homes in the Hebrides. 

 

 

6 minutes ago, Thedreamer said:

painted white like most homes in the Hebrides. 

Totally love the white look, I painted my house white after it had been abandoned for decades and it really brought it back to life. 

3 minutes ago, Cpd said:

Totally love the white look, I painted my house white after it had been abandoned for decades and it really brought it back to life. 

 

Yes a few times I've passed recently painted houses on the way to work and done double checks as they look so sharp.

 

 

Looking good. Did you do the roughcasting yourself?

@ultramodsNo, if any of the above text refers to 'we' that's me getting a man in to do it. ?

 

I'm not really a practical chap. Better with numbers.

Edited May 25, 2019 by Thedreamer

@Thedreamer Looks great, very tidy.  Do you have any of the detailing for the junction between the render and the cladding?  Are the cladding parts not done with block at all?  

 

Thanks

40 minutes ago, BMcN said:

@Thedreamer Looks great, very tidy.  Do you have any of the detailing for the junction between the render and the cladding?  Are the cladding parts not done with block at all?  

 

Thanks

 

Thanks

 

A stop bead was fitted to keep a gap between the render and the cladding.

 

The cladding was fitted on battens to keep a cavity for ventilation, so block-work just starts under the cills. 

Thanks, so where you have cladding you have no blockwork behind it?

16 minutes ago, BMcN said:

Thanks, so where you have cladding you have no blockwork behind it?

 

Yes the house is a timberframe. Double block is very unusual in the Highlands and Islands these days, prehaps because of the weather conditions. Traditional here to built a timber frame and then build a single skin block wall essentially around the house with rough casting added on top. Reason being that it's best at keeping the wind and rain out. The gable end which faces the trees get hits with prevailing south west wind and rains off the mountains. 

 

So the battens are attached to the kit. No blocks behind it.

 

Don't know if there are different ways of doing this, but if you were to fit a block here you would need to have a gap between the kit and blockwork, with a further gap between blockwork and cladding. 

 

I think you would struggle to have it all fitting on the original foundation block which was laid on the flat, does that make sense?

 

Below the cills we have single layer of block, then down to the original foundation block work. We also have some weep vents which will provide some ventilation below the cills.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

37 minutes ago, BMcN said:

Thanks, so where you have cladding you have no blockwork behind it?

 

Might be worth checking out the earlier blog posts.

Is the wet dash down to the ground on the gable Or is it just the picture 

White is traditional and will look great but hey what about some lime green or a nice royal burgundy ????

2 hours ago, nod said:

Is the wet dash down to the ground on the gable Or is it just the picture 

 

I'm not sure it's pretty close to the ground, their then seems to be a bit of wet dash left at the bottom presumably that fell to the ground when it was being applied.

 

Is the reason for asking damp concerns? 

1 hour ago, Tennentslager said:

White is traditional and will look great but hey what about some lime green or a nice royal burgundy ????

 

That would certainty stand out! I'm not sure our planners would be to happy.

 

We are in a National Scenic Area so got to keep the appearance in line with the local vernacular. 

37 minutes ago, Thedreamer said:

 

I'm not sure it's pretty close to the ground, their then seems to be a bit of wet dash left at the bottom presumably that fell to the ground when it was being applied.

 

Is the reason for asking damp concerns? 

Yes really should be 150 above ground finished levels with a bell cast bead sat on the doc 

If it is touching the ground it will act Locke a sponge 

3 hours ago, nod said:

Yes really should be 150 above ground finished levels with a bell cast bead sat on the doc 

If it is touching the ground it will act Locke a sponge 

Thanks @nod

 

Is the idea that dampness soaks into the cement render then by passes the DPC and travels across the cavity (if left untidy or filled with insulation)?

 

Would this be a problem in a timber frame property with a clear cavity? As the blockwork and render is essentially just a wall around the house.

 

We also have a suspended timber floor so it's a bit higher than your typically slab.

 

You should be ok with a cavity 

The problem will be when it frosts It will get behind the W D and bring it off 

Bad practice 

normally we would bellcast on top of the dpc 

 

@nod

 

What is a WD?
 

I've been looking at photos of rendering done around here for older properties and new builds which are probably timber frame. Some incorporate a bellcast bead but they are also rendered underneath but not with a smooth finish so is this render not prone to damp, frost/cracking as well?

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Thedreamer said:

@nod

 

What is a WD?
 

I've been looking at photos of rendering done around here for older properties and new builds which are probably timber frame. Some incorporate a bellcast bead but they are also rendered underneath but not with a smooth finish so is this render not prone to damp, frost/cracking as well?

 

 

 

 

Anyone who renders down to the floor is either inexperienced Or first care 

Sometimes I’m asked to render a thin coat under a bead Not ideal But not a big job to replace a 200 mil strip should it drop off in a couple of years