Recoveringbuilder

No further forward, we spoke to installer over the phone who went through various things and explained the lk 160 controller and the part it plays opening and closing motorised valve when required so we thought we’d give it another go but no still no good, temperature at the manifold barely reaches 35 so the room stats never get to their required temperature, the stove does heat the water and then cut off but there is no dhw, the other thing we’ve noticed is that when we turn off the hot tap the tank makes a funny vibration noise, any ideas anyone, I’ve texted installer tonight but so far no reply @Nickfromwaleswondering if you have any words of wisdom 

Is there a thermostat on the thermal store? if so what temperature does it read?

 

These things are usually a big thermal store with a heat exchange coil for DHW so I can't see how it is possible to not have hot water if the tank is hot.  And if the tank is not hot yet the stove has shut down, then something is wrong.

 

Can we see some pictures.

Stove is sitting at 78degrees and has switched itself off but as you can see the water in the tank is only 19.5degrees and this is with the ufh switched off don’t know what other pictures would help

Blending valves set incorrectly? What temperature is the thermal store at? 

 

You are going to have to post some photos for people to really help I think. Assume this is the controller? 

 

 

 

Pictures on, store only at 19.5 degrees although stove has cut out at 78 , yes that’s the controller 

Looks a bit like mission control there ..

 

Very odd piping of the mixing valves - where do the pipes that go up and over go to ..? Is that the UFH..??

 

 

Yes that’s ufh and radiators @PeterW

So that’s UFH to the right and rads to the left ..??

Why is the cover off the zone valve on the left side ..??

Cover is off as hubby was working the valve manually when the stove got to temperature in case it wasn’t working, he has been trying everything today from 8.30 this morning and still at it, there is some gurgling at the pipe coming to the auto bypass valve??

Any chance of a couple of additional photos ..??

 

one of what’s behind the pump (blue arrow) and a close up of the label on the brass unit with the red arrow..? Think it’s a load valve but not sure. 

Who designed this lot btw..??

Greenflame installations up in granton on Spey 

That’s weird.

 

That unit is a Thermovar or a load valve. Normally they go between the tank and the stove, making the return temperature of the water to the stove higher so it doesn’t chill the boiler with a cold return. 

 

In that picture it looks like it’s in the same flow as the UFH and rad feed which also has a blending valve on it .... 

 

Not wanting to guess at this but I think they have the load valves set up wrong. The two blenders on the TS at the top are very odd as I’m assuming they either feed UFH or something else ..? Or does the UFH and rad circuit all go up the side through the one pump ..??

And he needs to come back and re-install that zone valve marked with the yellow arrow as fitting them upside down is a no-no....

 

8 minutes ago, PeterW said:

And he needs to come back and re-install that zone valve marked with the yellow arrow as fitting them upside down is a no-no....

 

 

Looks to me like the cable's not long enough  (and taut?) hence it being fitted like that.

 

Also is there a shroud missing off of the pump connector?

Edited December 11, 2018 by Onoff

Yes uf and rads go up the side through the one pump 

3 minutes ago, Onoff said:

 

Looks to me like the cable's not long enough  (and taut?) hence it being fitted like that.

 

Don’t give a flying fc&k to be honest, you don’t fit zone valves upside down ..!! Fit a box on the ceiling and put a sodding join in it..!!

Right @Christine Walker It looks like the boiler load valve is on the left - arrowed green. 

 

If hubby opens the red butterfly valve it will bypass the load valve and the tank will draw from the bottom assuming the zone valve (with no cover)  is open. 

 

Any chance of a photo of the tank as a whole ..?? Bottom connections too please ..?

 

I think the load valve underneath the UFH blender is there to let hot water from the boiler go straight to the UFH/rads when the tank is cold as it will pull the heat out of the top otherwise. 

 

Still no no idea why the blenders are set up as a pair like that tho..! Have you got a design schematic ..??

Yip no cover where the wires connect in, and yes again it’s in the same flow as the ufh and rad feed

Next one ... 

 

automatic air vent has a closed valve below it .. if there is air in that system it can’t get out .. may be causing air locking 

 

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

automatic air vent has a closed valve below it .. if there is air in that system it can’t get out .. may be causing air locking 

 

 

I know where you've seen that before! Christine's may be easier to get to 

Just now, newhome said:

 

I know where you've seen that before! Christine's may be easier to get to 

 

Yes but yours is designed to be closed apparently due to stagnating temperatures ..!! That’s just a sodding AAV..!!