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Part 9 - Roof finished


Stones

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Having fitted sarking boards and roofing membrane, the next task for the joiners was to batten out the roof ready for tiling, and forming timber 'skews'.

 

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'Skews' are a verge treatment seen widely throughout Orkney, be they lead covered, stone or formed from concrete.  

 

Nothing especially complicated in their construction, as can be seen in the 'technical diagram' used by the joiners:

 

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With no external block leaf, our options were a bit limited in terms of construction, but the cantilever design is strongly anchored, bolted as it is to the concrete core of the ICF block, and to a timber (also bolted into the concrete core) that runs under the cantilever.  The overhang will be significantly reduced as and when the additional EWI is fitted and cladding / render has been applied. 

 

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Lead work next.  A lot of lead required, 13 rolls of 390mm, 10 rolls of 600mm for the skews and valleys combined.  Those of you who know the price of lead will appreciate the costs involved!

 

The lead valleys were done first, 3 rolls of 390mm used:

 

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followed by a couple of days folding lead for the 'skews'.  Two pieces were used to form the finish, the first being the 'soaker', which formers the gutter between the edge of the tiles and the 'skew' itself.  The soaker profile, formed from 390mm lead (7 rolls used for the house, 3 left for the garage):

 

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The skew profile, formed from 600mm lead (7 rolls used for the house skews, 3 rolls left for the garage) :

 

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and how the two profiles fit together:

 

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And finally, how they look when complete:

 

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As you can see, to facilitate expansion, the skew is made up of overlapping pieces of lead rather than a single strip.

 

Having completed the lead work, 5 days of it - 1 for the valleys, 1 day each per gable skew and soaker, the plumber handed over to the tiler.  Working alone, he covered the roof with a flat profile concrete tile in 2 weeks.  Because of the wind up here, every tile is double nailed and clipped. Black Soudal roofing sealant was used at valley / soaker junctions to secure any tiles that had been cut.  Where tile meets lead, the folded edge of the soaker / valley lead was pulled up to the underside of the tile to prevent water (and bird) ingress.  

 

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We now have a finished roof, which I have to say looks great.  We are really pleased with the skews and the huge difference they make to the overall finished roof appearance.

 

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Unfortunately, we are still waiting for our windows, so will not be fully water tight for another 3 - 4 weeks.  Work will however continue on site, with a reasonable list of jobs that can be progressed while we wait - building the garage, fitting EWI, fitting fascia and soffit boards, dwanging and battening inside etc.

 

 

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You could have saved money and used fibreglass valleys and soakers, and just used the lead for the "skews"
 

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Fibreglass was something I asked about early on, but was advised against.  Its reputation up here isn't good, and having spoken to two local surveyors about it since, I'm rather glad we didn't go down that route.  Of course the poor reputation of fibreglass up here, could be down to a few poor installations rather than anything to do with the product itself. Lead just seems to be the preferred and more robust option up here.  Also looks better (IMHO).

 

 

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Yes, really pleased.  One of the alternatives we did consider (when we were thinking about having part of the roof finished with Tata standing seam, was using a powder coated aluminium skew colour matched to the standing seam.  

 

Aluminium skews and soakers would have been more expensive to buy, but probably quicker and therefore cheaper to fit, but I'm not convinced they would have kept their looks as well as I anticipate lead will, over the coming years.  Lead gives a timeless appearance (judging by the lead skews we see around Orkney) and we believe it will ground the house into the local style in a way that a plastic dry verge system wouldn't.

 

Adding up the cost of each gable skew, they are coming out around £750 each.  Expensive compared to a dry verge, but then no gable fascias or soffits to finish in UPVC or aluminium, so perhaps not as expensive as you may first think.  Overall it's still cheaper putting in skews than slating (or artificial slating) the roof given the area we had to cover, as that was really the only other way we could have avoided using a dry verge system.

 

 

Edited by Stones
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The lead work is a feature as well as functional. Clearly guys with pride in their work :)  

Looks really nice, but needs a contrasting colour to compliment, so it'll be nice to see the walls and windows finished to bring it all together. 

The roofer must be a 3 Weetabix guy for sure ! All neat work, you must be very happy.

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All of the guys we have had on site certainly do seem to have shown a real pride in their work, which yes, makes me very, very happy.

TBH, I can't wait for the external finishing to be done and we can see the house properly.   The windows are coming finished in a 'granite' powder coated finish, so a slight texture which changes in appearance with the sun, and is very much in keeping with the lead.

Contrast will come in the form of colour, material and texture - a nice crisp slightly off white render to one section of the house and  larch timber cladding to the rear section (which we are leaving to weather down). Larch fascias will be common to all of the house as will either galvanised or black guttering.  

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No.

 

I've started a new topic to discuss this:

 

 

Edited by Stones
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Do you know what the tiles you used were? Look very similar to the Marley Modern we are looking to use. 

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You've explained it all really well - but excuse my ignorance - I'm missing something ... Are there any skews at the ends of the main sections of the roof ? around the end of the tiles next to the larch larch fascias?  are those tiles simply held down by their own weight?

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The skews are present on all gables as a direct alternative to dry verge.  The end of the tiles overhangs the lead soakers (a hidden gutter in effect) by 2 inches.  The folded edge of the soaker is pushed up to the underside of the tile ends.  All tiles are double nailed and clipped.  At the soaker / skew junction, black Soudal roof sealant is used as an additional way of securing each course of tile to the next.  I've tried moving them and they are rock solid.  

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