Onoff Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Using moisture resistant, green plasterboard in the bathroom everywhere except the wet room corner which will be Aquapanel. Most surfaces will be wall tiled except for half a wall above the bath where she wants "a colour" that will be painted. Any requirement to use special plasterboard screws or will the generic black ones I've got stacks of do? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Bury them well - not too deep though - and they will be fine. I had an issue with one or two in fermacell in a bathroom ceiling that weren't deep enough and they showed through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Fermacell doesn't get plastered though does it? Don't over sink the screws in plasterboard or you'll completely lose the purchase of the fixing. Drywall screws are bugle head so as to pull the paper of the PB in without tearing it, and also all drywall guns have a good depth gauge to ensure this gets repeated uniformly. If your really worried then scrim over each line of screws and put two sets of skim over. Fwiw two walls in my bathroom both white boards, I know, and only one wafer thin coat of skim and 2 years of splashing, high humidity from shower, and no paint on one wall ( it'll get done ) and not a whiff of bother . Normal drywall screws set to regular 'depth' and it'll be tres bien Rodney. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Just keep the screws out of your water pipes and you'll be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Schoolboy error alert ! Last Time I did that was 7pm and the last screw into a full ( PU glued ) sheet of P5 flooring. Hit the 22mm cold main . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 My chippies have managed to screw through my ufh pipes upstairs. Found first one but still dropping pressure and no obvious signs of where it is. Looks like all of the chipboard will have to be taken up Monday.... Grrrrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Argh, what a ball ache. Good luck finding the leak. Is it all one circuit? With luck you'll find the leak without having to take it all up. My electrician (otherwise the most careful and conservative guy we had onsite) put a screw through our UFH pipe - in our MBC slab! It was right before we had the screed concrete laid (for polishing). The screed guys pointed out that the bit of protection the electrician had knocked up over a cable duct into a recessed floor box in our study wouldn't allow enough concrete coverage to avoid cracking. He therefore had to come up with a new bit of protection in about 10 mins. Months later, and more than a couple of weeks after we pressurised the UFH circuit, my wife started swearing downstairs one morning because she thought the dog had taken a wee in the study. Looking more closely, we realised that there was far too much water, and it was clear (thankfully this was before we added glycol). Cue a day with me and the very apologetic electrician carefully chipping into the main slab under the screed, until eventually we found a tiny pinprick caused by a screw he'd used to hold in the bit of steel over the cable duct. He hadn't realised that the UFH ducts came so close to the box. We had a near miss on the same day when I came into our front hall to find one of the screeders about to start drilling his third hole into the slab for a rawl plug to screw down the stainless steel edging for our mat well! Thankfully he seems to have missed the UFH pipes! Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) Well I ve left it connected to the mains all day and no sign of where it's leaking so looks like it's all coming up monday at this rate. unfortunately I think the valves on the manifolds let by slightly so I don't seven seem to be able to narrow it down to a zone. Edited September 10, 2016 by Trw144 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 10, 2016 Author Share Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) Damp meter? Ignore me! Just re-read its upstairs / chipboard. Edited September 10, 2016 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 (edited) Might be worth a try - your thinking probing into the osb decking from below? I ll go and get one of these from work.... http://www.euroheat.co.uk/Accessories/Misc2/13/Wood-Moisture-Meter Edited September 10, 2016 by Trw144 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 10, 2016 Author Share Posted September 10, 2016 3 minutes ago, Trw144 said: Might be worth a try - your thinking printing into the osb decking from below? Just look for the dampest patch wherever..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted September 10, 2016 Author Share Posted September 10, 2016 Had a few near misses of late putting down the multitool / sabre saw / grinder with hot blades near the exposed UFH! The other night I zinged off the points of 12 over length screws that had come through and counted only 10 "hot bits". Panicked as to where the other two had gone! Had visions of a) it melting into the pipes or b) it becoming wedged in the stud work and slowly smouldering! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 When MBC were detailing the inside of our build, they were gently hacksawing the overhang of the window straps. One lad asked why they didn't just take a grinder to them, turns out they did that once and the hot sparks welded themselves into the window glass! A few weeks later we had a steel worker about to cut plate with a massive grinder right in-front of the sliding doors - just managed to stop him in time and get some protection up. My joiner also nicked a UFH pipe while we were trying to find a squeak in the ply before laying a resin floor - luckily we saw it happen and were able to make the repair there and them. When I was tightening up the alu spreader plates from below ahead of plastering, I also spotted a few very near misses from nail guns and drill holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 (edited) Well I just checked now and the pressure is unchanged at 4 bar. Odd. I guess it could have been air in system explaining the drops I saw on Friday/Saturday? No water showing anywhere as I found wth the other hole. Edited September 11, 2016 by Trw144 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 You're supposed to close the air vents when pressure testing . If in any doubt, disconnect the manifold, remove it, and test each loop for a couple of hours at mains pressure. Use a non return valve for the inlet and cap the other side with the gauge. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 5 hours ago, Nickfromwales said: You're supposed to close the air vents when pressure testing . If in any doubt, disconnect the manifold, remove it, and test each loop for a couple of hours at mains pressure. Use a non return valve for the inlet and cap the other side with the gauge. . Had nt really considered the air vent. Have just popped to site to drop some stuff off and close the air vent. Weirdly my pressure has increased from 4 to almost 5 bar since this morning? Temperature increase in the pipe during the day (it's been quite nice here today)?? Makes me now think no leak - very odd! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Cold water would expand slightly so deffo a normal,thing to see an increase. Check it at midnight and it'll be back down most prob. Its a very small volume of water, so small changes will show quite dramatically on a gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Cold water would expand slightly so deffo a normal,thing to see an increase. Check it at midnight and it'll be back down most prob. Its a very small volume of water, so small changes will show quite dramatically on a gauge. Presumably a leak leak would more than offset any increase in pressure due to temperature and I should see a pressure drop? Summarising events so far..... Earlier in in the week tested the ufh with air and pressure was dropping, no idea where so we filled with water and after 24 hrs it had become apparent from the drips where it was (Chippie had put a nail through it). Pipe changed on this run on Friday afternoon and re pressured to 3 or so bar. I looked Friday night and it had lost half a bar, and another half a bar over night by Saturday morning, hence thinking another leak. Saturday morning I connected it to the mains and left it connected so it kept it topped up with the intention any leak would become apparent. Left it til Saturday night, at which point I left it disconnected and pressurised to 4 bar. This morning it was at 4 bar, and tonight it was at 5. All of the above was with air vent open. I have just closed it off. So, leak or no leak!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 If it's had free reign with the cold mains connected then you haven't got a leak upstairs unless you've got puddles downstairs. I never, ever, dry test. My philosophy is, if there's a leak, let's damn well see it. Every time there is one, and anyone who says they've never had a leak has never done any plumbing, connecting to the moans and just switching it on will find it in seconds. It will piss out everywhere if left for 30mins or so, so your half day stint is, IMO, the end of the chat. My opinion = No leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Oh, and for everyone's benefit, you DO NOT test dry ( with air ) if there is an automatic air release on the manifold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Ok, fingers crossed its at pressure in the morning when I check it.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMitchells Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) On 10 September 2016 at 07:57, Bitpipe said: Okay- what am I supposed to be looking at here? What is the schoolboy error? Help please for a total plumbing novice. Edited September 12, 2016 by Crofter Fixed quotes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Ok, more intrigue... Pressure has dropped about half a bar or so this morning - may be as expected given the temperature drop over night. However, next door which I have built identically, is sat at 6 bar, the same as it has been everyday this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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