Onoff Posted May 1, 2019 Posted May 1, 2019 13 minutes ago, Nelliekins said: Anyone know where to get cheap oak planks from? Where in the country are you?
PeterW Posted May 2, 2019 Posted May 2, 2019 Why not use oak sleepers ..?? You’ll get 3 out of a 2.7m sleeper, slot cut the edges so the tread slides over the steel supports and you’ve got tread and riser in one ..??
Mr Punter Posted May 2, 2019 Posted May 2, 2019 Oak worktop might also work for you as treads. How are you fixing them? Have you worked out the weight of steel in that thing?
Nelliekins Posted May 3, 2019 Author Posted May 3, 2019 (edited) On 01/05/2019 at 23:32, Onoff said: Where in the country are you? Lancashire. On 02/05/2019 at 07:10, PeterW said: Why not use oak sleepers ..?? You’ll get 3 out of a 2.7m sleeper, slot cut the edges so the tread slides over the steel supports and you’ve got tread and riser in one ..?? The box section projects into cantilever so we can just screw the tread to the riser in an L shape and attach to the box section from underneath. But sleepers could still be sliced down if they're at least 235mm wide / deep. On 02/05/2019 at 09:01, Mr Punter said: Oak worktop might also work for you as treads. How are you fixing them? Screwed through the box section steel from underneath. Quote Have you worked out the weight of steel in that thing? Yep. Scientists have a word for it... Heavy. ? The PFC weighs 23.6kg per linear metre (because it was mislabelled as 180x75 when it was 180x90), with just over 11m in total. The box section weighs too little to care about - perhaps 35kg all in. Inclusive of the timber we are looking at about 350kg including the timber. Next time we will use 120x65 PFC instead of this absurdity! But at least this won't bend or bounce! Edited May 3, 2019 by Nelliekins Typo
PeterW Posted May 3, 2019 Posted May 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Nelliekins said: The box section projects into cantilever so we can just screw the tread to the riser in an L shape and attach to the box section from underneath. But sleepers could still be sliced down if they're at least 235mm wide / deep. You could just machine the sleepers to support this - fairly easy done. You would end up with gaps as sleepers are only 100 or 125mm deep, but the gap would be fine as it will be less than 100mm as per regs.
Nelliekins Posted May 4, 2019 Author Posted May 4, 2019 On 03/05/2019 at 10:36, PeterW said: You could just machine the sleepers to support this - fairly easy done. You would end up with gaps as sleepers are only 100 or 125mm deep, but the gap would be fine as it will be less than 100mm as per regs. Yeah, but the steel is rusty as anything and I want to cover it underneath... Just found a sawmill all of 2 miles from my house that specialises in oak machining at absurd prices!! An example - 900x240x30mm treads for £8!
Nelliekins Posted May 4, 2019 Author Posted May 4, 2019 OK so a bit further forward today - handrail uprights are fully secured and a temporary handrail attached for safety... Next up are the oak treads and risers, and the full plasterboard handrail / wall. 3
Onoff Posted May 4, 2019 Posted May 4, 2019 37 minutes ago, Nelliekins said: OK so a bit further forward today - handrail uprights are fully secured and a temporary handrail attached for safety... Next up are the oak treads and risers, and the full plasterboard handrail / wall. How's the steel going to be finished? Will you do that before you fit the treads or trial fit the treads and remove/refit?
Nelliekins Posted May 4, 2019 Author Posted May 4, 2019 18 minutes ago, Onoff said: How's the steel going to be finished? Will you do that before you fit the treads or trial fit the treads and remove/refit? 1. Remove the temp treads (they're just scaffold planks sawn down to fit) 2. Clean up the PFC by wire brushing it and then maybe a coat of red oxide 3. Build the handrail (4x2 timber screwed to the box section steel, plasterboarded on both faces) 4. Tek bolt timbers to the underside of the PFC 5. Fit oak treads and risers (fixed from behind /underneath) 6. Underboard the PFC with plasterboard, finishing flush with the bottom of the handrail 7. Sleep ?
Onoff Posted May 4, 2019 Posted May 4, 2019 8 minutes ago, Nelliekins said: 1. Remove the temp treads (they're just scaffold planks sawn down to fit) 2. Clean up the PFC by wire brushing it and then maybe a coat of red oxide 3. Build the handrail (4x2 timber screwed to the box section steel, plasterboarded on both faces) 4. Tek bolt timbers to the underside of the PFC 5. Fit oak treads and risers (fixed from behind /underneath) 6. Underboard the PFC with plasterboard, finishing flush with the bottom of the handrail 7. Sleep ? So the steel stays red oxide finish?
Nelliekins Posted May 4, 2019 Author Posted May 4, 2019 Just now, Onoff said: So the steel stays red oxide finish? Yep I think so... Unless you have a better idea? In you look back to the early pics, the steel isn't in great condition - grinding off rust for the welding revealed a few pockets of over 3mm depth - not great for steel advertised as "clean"!
Onoff Posted May 4, 2019 Posted May 4, 2019 14 minutes ago, Nelliekins said: Yep I think so... Unless you have a better idea? In you look back to the early pics, the steel isn't in great condition - grinding off rust for the welding revealed a few pockets of over 3mm depth - not great for steel advertised as "clean"! You're going to be fighting mill scale where it's not rusted. I'd mechanically wire brush as best as and wipe down with panel wipe/thinners or white spirit at a push & let dry. Tbh hammer finish would be my choice. Not necessarily Hammerite, imo it's gone right downhill. Flag brand hammer paint is pretty good. Best hammer finish I've ever used though Firwood 130 from a firm in Bolton. Make it a feature and do it in gold, it'd look like the inside of the Nautilus! https://www.firwood.co.uk/categories/industrial-paints/hammer-metallic-effect-finishes/product/firwood-130-rapid-dry-hammer-finish/130
Howard B Posted May 9, 2019 Posted May 9, 2019 Looking great Sir! On 04/05/2019 at 21:28, Nelliekins said: OK so a bit further forward today - handrail uprights are fully secured and a temporary handrail attached for safety... Next up are the oak treads and risers, and the full plasterboard handrail / wall. 1
TT-Smyth Posted May 24, 2019 Posted May 24, 2019 On 07/04/2019 at 20:26, Russell griffiths said: I think Pinterest is the place to look. I have only recently discovered Pinterest, but I must say it really is brilliant for inspiration. Everything little project I take on now I spend at least an hour or two looking through Pinterest. 1
Pocster Posted May 24, 2019 Posted May 24, 2019 1 hour ago, TT-Smyth said: I have only recently discovered Pinterest, but I must say it really is brilliant for inspiration. Everything little project I take on now I spend at least an hour or two looking through Pinterest. Agree ! Then you take the inspiration to get a price and it’s like F me ! 1
Onoff Posted May 24, 2019 Posted May 24, 2019 2 hours ago, TT-Smyth said: I have only recently discovered Pinterest Of course if you show your missus it's your own fault! 2
TT-Smyth Posted May 26, 2019 Posted May 26, 2019 On 24/05/2019 at 20:58, Onoff said: Of course if you show your missus it's your own fault! Jesus the thought of that sent shivers down my spine... ?
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