Hecateh Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 I'm getting round to mounting my TV. It's 50 inch, weighs just under 20 kg and will need to be cantilevered out into the room - generally around 30 - 45 degrees but occasionally up to almost 90 degrees The wall is plasterboard onto battened block. What should I use? (I'm not doing it myself - my son is doing it and I'm 'helping') Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 So you need a decent mount like this. https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/ps-fmsat446d/full-motion-tv-mount-with-tilt/dp/ST04042 Then it needs bolting to the wall, but not crushing the plasterboard. quickest way is to mark the bolt holes on to the wall, then carefully drill some 25mm holes through the plasterboard. Drill the centres for some decent M10 Stud Rawlbolts - don’t bother with anything else - and then use a stack of washers to bring the surface flush with the board. Fit the bracket and tighten the nuts up. This pushes the force onto the wall though the studs and washers, not the plasterboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 I've already got the mount - it is very similar to that one. What length M10s? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 What are the blocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Onoff said: What are the blocks? blocks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 2 minutes ago, Hecateh said: blocks? Aerated, hollow, medium density etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 I'm not sure what the blocks are. They are not hollow, fairly light weight and easy to drill into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 I do quite a lot of mounting peoples tv's on walls. In this situation I would cut a strip of plasterboard out, use that gap created to slot some more battens in to fill the gap where the mount is to go. Screw the battens to the block (and probably sticks like sh*t them as well) Put the plasterboard back and fill the joints, screw the bracket on. It's the swivel function that causes your problem as it forces a bracket that has a small footprint on the wall. If you just want it flat perhaps with the ability to tilt, but not swivel, then it is a LOT easier with a wide bracket that is wide enough to span between studs and get at least one, preverably 2, fixings into the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 3 hours ago, ProDave said: I do quite a lot of mounting peoples tv's on walls. In this situation I would cut a strip of plasterboard out, use that gap created to slot some more battens in to fill the gap where the mount is to go. Screw the battens to the block (and probably sticks like sh*t them as well) Put the plasterboard back and fill the joints, screw the bracket on. It's the swivel function that causes your problem as it forces a bracket that has a small footprint on the wall. If you just want it flat perhaps with the ability to tilt, but not swivel, then it is a LOT easier with a wide bracket that is wide enough to span between studs and get at least one, preverably 2, fixings into the studs. Thanks Dave - it definitely needs to be able to swivel as it is on a flat wall, in the middle of the room between the kitchen and living area. I can get a good view when it is at about 30 degrees from the wall but on the rare occasion there are others here who also want to watch it needs to swivel to almost 90 degrees. I wouldn't really have any concerns if it was to stay flat to the wall but I am very aware the swivelling it into the room will add much greater pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 15 hours ago, Hecateh said: I've already got the mount - it is very similar to that one. What length M10s? 120mm would do - don’t drill all the way through the blocks and then just set them in the blocks with the washer and no spacers. Undo the nut, fit the spacer washers and then tighten up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 Just now, PeterW said: 120mm would do - don’t drill all the way through the blocks and then just set them in the blocks with the washer and no spacers. Undo the nut, fit the spacer washers and then tighten up. Thanks @PeterW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 If there is a guaranteed gap then you could use the GripIt Blues - I’ve put radiators on with them and they recon you can put a tv on a wall but.... wonder if they would take the weight so far off the wall..?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 1 minute ago, PeterW said: wonder if they would take the weight so far off the wall..?? Yep, that's my worry. I have mounted my own towel radiators, shelves, mirrors etc but the weight of a tv, albeit relatively light compared to they used to weigh, at almost full extension scares me a bit. As it does my son as I have been waiting for him to 'find time' to do it since Christmas. It is currently stood on a table though and is really in the way. The speakers have had to be placed behind it and the wires are a big tangle. I think maybe @ProDave 's way might be the safest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 Sorry but I wouldn’t screw anything into 25mm batten and hope it stays there ..!! Bolted to the blockwork is a must, 20kg on a 750mm lever is a lot of force for a screw to take. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 3 minutes ago, PeterW said: Sorry but I wouldn’t screw anything into 25mm batten and hope it stays there ..!! Bolted to the blockwork is a must, 20kg on a 750mm lever is a lot of force for a screw to take. Was thinking of screwing straight through it and into the blockwork, using it like the washers to stop the plaster board popping. I've ordered these https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B3X2PY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 2 minutes ago, Hecateh said: Was thinking of screwing straight through it and into the blockwork, using it like the washers to stop the plaster board popping. I've ordered these https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B3X2PY4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Seen these a few times and wondered how good they were. Trick with drilling block is always make the hole the correct size, and use a decent drill bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 23, 2019 Author Share Posted March 23, 2019 Matt has the full kit - he's an aspiring property developer whose partner won't let him give up the day job because he is lazy unmotivated when there are no deadlines. They've done one evenings and weekends and made a good profit on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 1 hour ago, Hecateh said: I would cut a strip of plasterboard out, use that gap created to slot some more battens in to fill the gap where the mount is to go. Screw the battens to the block We have just mounted a 42" TV on a swivel arm much the same way, but ours uses a vertically orientated mount and comes highly reviewed. As it happened one of the vertical battens (stud in our case) was in a suitable position so we could screw directly into that. It might be worth using a stud finder to locate your studs because if one is suitably positioned, then putting any mounting bolts through this, so the stud acts as the stand-off will save a lot of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 I might: - Mark where the bracket is going. - With a 25mmm Starrett drill the pb and mark the block behind with the pilot of the Starrett. - Drill the wall for resin studs. - Puff out the holes. - Inject resin, push in studs. - Put a nut on each stud then a penny washer level with the face of the pb. - Bolt bracket on Only issue I can see is whether the M10 nuts & protruding studs holding the bracket on would affect the bit of the bracket attached to the tv. Also would want to get the studs all the same length. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daiking Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) On 23/03/2019 at 13:12, PeterW said: Seen these a few times and wondered how good they were. Trick with drilling block is always make the hole the correct size, and use a decent drill bit. I've used the small Rigifix fixing which better/more complicated* design in this style for dot and dab on brick. They are very solid and I will use in future for shelves heavy objects/Floating shelves. The large version (M8) is only 100mm long which you would probably consider borderline for pb + batten. *delete as applicable Edited March 25, 2019 by daiking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 In the end we used the bolts supplied. They were about 150mm and looked sturdier than the ones I ordered with the metal collars. Matt ensured he had found a batten as I don't yet have any skirting so it could be located at the bottom Now I just have to decide what goes underneath to control and manage all the wires and 'gubbins'. I have a freesat box which needs to sit at least 100mm from the wall because of the power and coaxial cables. I've ordered some angled fittings for the coaxial cables but not sure what to do about the power cable. Though that is not quite as rigid, it can't be good for it to be under any pressure. I assume with the coaxial I can cut them and refit the connectors - are there any issues with this? I need less than a meter and they are about 3 m long. I know to leave a bit of spare but the spare is coiled up at the moment and as there are 2 of them it looks pretty messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) Plugs: Fitting F plugs: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/fplugs.htm Coax plugs: http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/tvplugs.htm D trunking sometimes a neat solution: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Dline_Plasma_Trunking/index.html Yes you can shorten the "aerial" leads. Edited March 25, 2019 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryE Posted March 25, 2019 Share Posted March 25, 2019 (edited) 42 minutes ago, Hecateh said: I have a freesat box which needs to sit at least 100mm from the wall because of the power and coaxial cables. Have you though of upgrading to a Humax DVR? We drive our TV through the Humax. I can't remember the last time that I watched live TV. I don't recall doing it once in the new house. We record and time shift (absolutely essential IMO for the channels with ads) or watch iPlayer / Netflix through the Humax. We also have a Chromecast, but about the only time that I use it is for occasionally casting YouTube, since the Google integration is smoother. Edited March 25, 2019 by TerryE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 This is how it is currently. There are 2 sockets and I need 4 so I have a switched extension which is behind the shelves. I can easily mount the 2 small speakers - the base twists to provide a place I can fit to a screw in the wall. Especially as the sockets are already high I want to get rid of those old white shelves and keep everything off the floor so I need to find some neat storage for the freesat box (which is a humax dvr @TerryE,) and the woofer. Neither of these have any direct mounting capability. The back of the freesat box is like this I have ordered right angled adapters to reduce how far the coaxial cables stick out at the back. The power is not too bad but the cable that TV also protrudes quite a bit. Are there any right angle adapters for this? With the freesat I don't need the aerial connection (connection and cable there but no aerial fitted anyway) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hecateh Posted March 25, 2019 Author Share Posted March 25, 2019 On 23/03/2019 at 13:35, TerryE said: We have just mounted a 42" TV on a swivel arm much the same way, but ours uses a vertically orientated mount and comes highly reviewed. As it happened one of the vertical battens (stud in our case) was in a suitable position so we could screw directly into that. It might be worth using a stud finder to locate your studs because if one is suitably positioned, then putting any mounting bolts through this, so the stud acts as the stand-off will save a lot of work. Exactly the same, excellent reviews and a variety of fixings both for the wall and for the tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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