Onoff Posted June 20, 2020 Share Posted June 20, 2020 That's the Mak2Fer adapter done and ready to test print!I've really dumbed this down to 2 parts. There's no spring operated release button to take the adapter off of the Ferrex tool as I'll never be buying Ferrex batteries as Makita is my chosen platform. The adapter will stay on the tool forever. It's a case of slide on the adapter and drop in the "wedge". I'll likely keep that in place with a drop of silicone so the adapter could be removed later if needs be. Or I might do the copper battery tabs to they hold the wedge in place. Just got to wait for my printer to wake up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 24, 2020 Share Posted June 24, 2020 (edited) Mak2Fer adapter. Just waiting for some 1mm copper sheet to turn up so I can make battery connectors: I forgot to emboss MAK2FER on the sides! Edited June 24, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 I DON'T BELIEVE IT! Somehow I've managed to design this "Mak2Fer" adapter above, so the + & - terminals are on opposite sides! Spin the Makita battery through 180deg on the model and it works but then you couldn't slide the battery in without making the adapter a lot longer and having it stick out the back. Back to the drawing board for some crossover action! As I'm never going to buy a Ferrex battery and charger it would probably be quicker to rewire the tool itself. But where's the fun in that? It'll be something on these line's, a dog legged arrangement to swap the polarity. These renderings are of an early Ferrex to Bosch adapter I'm working on. I've now thought of something a bit more elegant and might use 10mm2 copper wire to save on copper strip. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted June 29, 2020 Share Posted June 29, 2020 Well... The revised/reprinted Makita to Ferrex adapter works...'ish.First mistake was not tinning the copper blades prior to inserting them into the plastic. I put too much heat on one of the blades and it "sunk" into the print. Tbh that's just aesthetics.In use...the hedge trimmer works fine...for about 2 seconds then stops. Release & pull the front handle again and you get another 2 seconds. Makita (clone) battery is fine and charged. I tried 2 3Ah batteries, then 2 5Ah, same issue. It's actually useable as in you cut on one pass, stop, then go again. I wonder why.....some intelligence in the tool or battery? The hedge trimmer manual say to only use Ferrex 20V 2Ah or Ferrex 20/40V 2.5Ah batteries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 (edited) @PeterW, morning. Seem to recall you saying you've a mate or something who uses the Anycubic printers at work (for prototyping?) The recommendation being the main reason I went for it. Half thinking you might have an Anycubic as well? Printing PLA is pretty much a doddle with zero adhesion problems due to the special, dimpled, Ultrabase heated bed being so good. It sticks like the proverbial then once cool a light breeze will release the print it comes off that easy. Printing ABS though is proving an absolute pig! Don't want to use any adhesion promoter on the bed for fear of damaging it. Having it in an enclosure as we now have and at the sort of temperatures we need to print ABS (and stop warping) we risk damage to the electronics. Trying to source a 220 x 240mm glass bed to fit instead. This so I can use Kapton tape, ABS slurry etc with abandon! The FB group I've joined hasn't really helped as I hoped they would either! Wish I'd gone for an Ender 3 tbh. Do the people you know print ABS on the i3? Cheers Edited July 24, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Will cut to size for extra £5... https://ooznest.co.uk/product/borosilicate-glass-build-plate/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 19 minutes ago, Temp said: Will cut to size for extra £5... https://ooznest.co.uk/product/borosilicate-glass-build-plate/ Thanks. Not sure if it can be sat straight on the Ultrabase...making enquiries now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 Article on alternative to ABS with less warping.. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/asa-3d-printing-170820204/ I've not yet looked at availability or price. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 33 minutes ago, Temp said: Article on alternative to ABS with less warping.. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/asa-3d-printing-170820204/ I've not yet looked at availability or price. £16-24/kg from where I have seen it. Colour saturation seems to be the drawback but if you’re not seeing it then that shouldn’t be an issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 1 hour ago, Temp said: Article on alternative to ABS with less warping.. https://www.3dnatives.com/en/asa-3d-printing-170820204/ I've not yet looked at availability or price. I liked first then read it expecting something new. Am I missing something? Already knew about ASA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 1 hour ago, PeterW said: £16-24/kg from where I have seen it. Colour saturation seems to be the drawback but if you’re not seeing it then that shouldn’t be an issue As I can't yet successfully print in ABS I've been spraying PLA to go outside. Plastic primer and whatever top coat. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 4 hours ago, Onoff said: I liked first then read it expecting something new. Am I missing something? Already knew about ASA. Sorry it was new to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 Anyone have a hankering to build an Airfix kit? ? https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=nakozen+sprue&type=things&sort=relevant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 @Onoff Did you ever get a temperature display working? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted October 9, 2020 Share Posted October 9, 2020 17 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: @Onoff Did you ever get a temperature display working? Yes, or at least my lad did, a very basic realtime, text output using 4 DS18B20s and a Pi. Not the all singing, all dancing gui in the corner of the screen I'd hoped for. Printer is sitting gathering dust now he's back at uni. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacP Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 On this similar bu slightly separate note, has anyone had a 3D model of their self build printed? Thinking its be a great way of visualising the build and also as a bit of something/art/sculpture to tell the story. No idea where/how you'd start but thought I'd be best asking the experts on BH (and hope a bit of flattery can get you anywhere!). TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 If your architect has a 3D model of your house and understands 3D printing it might not be too expensive. Otherwise someone has to create a printable CAD model. Thats not something most 3D printing services get involved with. Once you have that its probably not too expensive. If I was getting one done I'd want each floor and the roof printed separately so I can take it apart. One issue is with colour. Most 3D printing is in monochrome and that tends to make features less obvious. For example on a CAD model the window frames may stand out because they are a different colour to the brickwork. On a monochrome 3D print the frames may be far less obvious. I suppose you could easily paint it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Son to be Makita powered, cheap 18V multitool: https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03220/18v-multi-function-tool-bare-unit/dp/TL19690 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Duratool multitool, ripe for conversion to Makita power. The Makita battery actually slides part way in. If there was a bit more meat in the tool base I could have maybe modded that. As it stands I'll have to figure an adapter. Fire up the Vernier George! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Just printing the test piece to insert in the Duratool base. Hollowed out to save on material / time. Designed in AutoCAD by me. Sliced in Cura by the lad. The .stl opened in Fusion by the lad to generate these pretty renders. I'll round the edges off and graft it to the Makita bit later on: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Fits a treat. Printed with 0.3mm layers for speed: Also the Duratool multitool appears to run sweet off of the Makita Li-ion battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 6, 2021 Share Posted March 6, 2021 Grafted the infill piece to the Makita battery adapter design I've already done. A couple of pretty renderings: Now printing in clay red PLA. Sods Law the new reel was wider than the holder on the 3D printer so I just made a new one out of a st/st door kick plate and some 20mm pvc conduit & fittings plus a bit of 32mm waste and a bfo stainless washer: I'll update in about 8 hours when it's printed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Finished, it'll do. Only 10% infill which is down to my boy not me. Seems very lightweight. Took about 6 hours. These "ragged" areas were supported. The quality is to my mind a bit carp. Tbh you don't see these when the adapter is fitted but it still bugs me! Be interested to see prints of other people's "supported" faces. I'll make the copper strip inserts tomorrow hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Temp Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Yes supported faces can be poor. Cura has some options that do different support patterns but I found the default grid is normally the best. Perhaps worth experimenting with nozzle temperatures and fan speeds on some test pieces. Quite often I cut objects into several parts in F360, rotate to avoid needing supports and glue back together. I've recently been printing more PETG filament and while it has its own issues (like more stringing) its great for large parts because it doesnt warp up off the bed like PLA can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 2 hours ago, Temp said: Yes supported faces can be poor. Cura has some options that do different support patterns but I found the default grid is normally the best. Perhaps worth experimenting with nozzle temperatures and fan speeds on some test pieces. Quite often I cut objects into several parts in F360, rotate to avoid needing supports and glue back together. I've recently been printing more PETG filament and while it has its own issues (like more stringing) its great for large parts because it doesnt warp up off the bed like PLA can. Never had issues really with PLA warping. Pretty sure it's due to the special qualities of the Anycubic Ultrabase that's "dimpled" for want of a better word and coated with something magic... ABS...different story! Still haven't cracked that. Reluctant to use ABS slurry as it needs scraping off periodically and I don't want to damage the Ultrabase! Got some Kapton tape in desperation but again don't really want to stick it to the Ultrabase. Also bought a hugely expensive piece of chamfered and cut to size, borosilicate glass & clips to go atop the Ultrabase. Plan is to coat that with ABS slurry or the (again) magic tin of "hairspray esque" stuff I bought. A roll of PETG sitting here, untried as yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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